"Francisco Costa wasn't kidding when he said he was serious about turning Calvin Klein Collection into one of the top American designer businesses. The humble Brazilian's resort show, staged Monday morning at CKI's West 39th Street headquarters, was, in a word, sublime.
"Reptiles! Pythons! Very cleaned up, but very organic," Costa said following the 22-look runway show, attended not only by the cream of the crop editors, but a mix of socials like Amanda Brooks and house friend Ashley Olsen as well.
Indeed, from the very first look--a pearl/stone colored python print ribbed crewneck dress--Costa had a hit on his hands. With hair slicked back and makeup kept near bare, fabric manipulation was the theme here. Never straying from the core roots of the streamlined minimalism of the Calvin Klein brand, Costa reflected on the current times and delivered an edgy, sculptural, and organic collection that sought influences in Japanese motifs. Precise folds, tucks, and creases illustrated Costa's movement motif, if not at times reminiscent of Roland Mouret's tailored hand, all set to a soundtrack that included "The Millennium Question" by Ian Simmons and "Dead Mouse Blues" by Jonny Trunk.
"Basically we put all the fabrics through a flattening process," Costa said. "A lot of the shapes got changed, were made them smaller and, again, organic as it was flattened. Wherever the pleat went, it stayed." The results were a sponge-like fabric that combined with wisps of fabric folds to give a fresh new interpretation of the LBD. A beige silk charmeuse molded sleeve dress moved like a live art installation. The outfits finished off with daunting, but sexy stiletto sandals in patent leather and patent leather/Lucite combos."
We like. It's a very clean and modern collection of looks. Simple at first glance, but the beauty is in the minute details. In fashion, there's always something to be said for restraint, so long as the designer can avoid being boring. We think this collection accomplishes that nicely.
71 comments:
some very sleek designs, indeed.
the hair, though, blech. I hate the modified pony look. It flatters no one.
I thought it looked sloppy and ill-fitted for the most part. I hate those funny folds/flaps around the hips in a lot of the looks. The color scheme was also much too drab and monochrome for my taste. However, I do love the shoes.
Sleek ... and boring. Only the pleated 2-tone dress is interesting. Hate the space-age wide yokes, and what's with the bodice that has the teeny little bust encased in a little window frame effect? Once again, designers NOT designing for real women.
All that pleating is incredible! I'm so in love with this collection!
"Anonymous said...
Once again, designers NOT designing for real women."
Define REAL WOMEN. I'm a real woman and I'd wear almost everything from this collection.
A bit boring perhaps, but very chic. Look #16 is gorgeous!
I love the clean look of this, the only bad thing is the ill fit on some of the pieces.
I like this collection, especially the last few looks! I adore the really subtle use of python print too, as used too much, it could have been awful!
My only gripe is the lack of color in this collection.
It's a beautiful collection, but it strikes me as beauty held at arm's length, intellectual, admirable. . .
I don't know if it's the (lack of) color palette, the robotic presentation, or what, but ultimately it reminds me of listening to music that's played with technical perfection but no emotion.
Very clean, fresh, modern and feminine. I liked the asymmetrical and sculptural aspects of the designs, as well as the subtle reptilian references. Fabulous fabrication.
Overall, a very good collection that's definitely Calvin (or an offshoot). It made me think of what a present day or updated Jackie O. type would be wearing.
I must be getting really old, fast. Some of the models looked....twelve years old.
- edina -
I liked most of it very much. But give me some lipstick or colored accessories for a splash of color.
My only issues were with the one shouldered dresses and the few pieces with a traditional Japanese silhouette that neared some sort of The Fifth Element / Blade Runner territory.
I liked it for the most part. I noticed some seeming fit issues too, esp. on the 1 shouldered looks. I was not at all crazy about the trench look with the half-peplum. It just looked bad to me. But I loved the black suit. And I would wear many of the other looks, but not in the colors they show. I'm pale enough already. Those beiges and whites look like death on this Irish skin.
Not my cuppa. I've never been a Calvin Klein fan. And I don't like beige.
Is it just me, or do those models look like they're twelve years old? (I know, most models are young, but those girls seriously look barely pubescent.)
the horizontally pleated dress/ top and skirt? I wore that top as a bridesmaid a year and a half ago. Surprisingly good looking on a "full-figured" woman. And I like the shoes. Can we have some color please?
Very elegant silhouettes, for the most part, but the lack of color is bo-o-o-oring.
That was too much beige. A little color please. It was simple, lovley in its simplicity, but nothing fabulous.
And the third model, she looked like she was a very tall third grader.
That was too much beige. A little color please. It was simple, lovley in its simplicity, but nothing fabulous.
And the third model, she looked like she was a very tall third grader.
I really like the collection. Its true that the color got a little boring, but as a whole, it looked very ethereal.
And that pleated dress/top-and-skirt? I like!
P.S.
The horny-Heidi "Bonus Feature" is...a...um...nice touch, boys. Lol.
Actually, that's a pretty cool image. Hanz & Franz, indeed! Poor Seal. I love Ms. Klum much, but isn't she the mother of like, eleven young children?
I'd like to see some color. And maybe older models. What are they, 10?
ditto all of the comments about the color or lack thereof...some of the pieces are quite lovely -- understated and elegant, but the color is so monotonous (literally). bill's idea of splashes of color in the makeup & accessories is good, but i would love to see some of those pieces in some pretty summer pastels.
i, too - LOVE the shoes!
The colors are so drab, they don't seem very resort-y to me.
LOVE. IT. It reminds me of the desert, wind blowing, Morocco...love it!
No bathing suit? It's a resort collection, no?
Francisco Costa is one of the most talented designers working in the industry today. I love how he interpreted the texture of snake skin with pleating and draping. I rally like his collection.
Some of the looks are a bit Star Trek-ey but I like most of it.
It's Calvin Klein at its best. His clothing is simple, classic, and really well-made. I think Francisco Costa did a great job. Can you imagine how great those looks would look with a tan?
Not loving the lack of color in this collection, but I adore CK. I look awesome in most of his clothing. I'm one of those fake women.
It's pure elegance at the beach. J'adore!!!
I love all the details and the muted color palette is so classic!
By the way, love love the bonus feature: Heidi wants 'Naked Sundays'. LOL. Does that include the children?
The collection? Not so much. The shoes? FABU!!! Thank you for all these fabulous posts, boys!
Those looks are a bit too sophisticated for those 7th graders.
--GothamTomato
Meh....
I think I'd like the technical goodies if they were something other than neutral, neutral, neutral.
And my first reaction was to the models, not what they were wearing. The 4th photo? Maybe age 10? Please.
"boring"
"meh"
Let me guess...it needs a bow or something.
Gorgeous collection. I always wear muted colors so this is perfect for me. Just one thing - what's with the makeup or lack thereof? The models look worn out, you can actually see the eye circles.
I love Calvin Klein. I love the classic style his brand of clothing has. When you wear it you feel perfect.
I can see the beauty of it but not it isn't my taste. The CK collections are always extremely plain and bare.
Wonky fit on most of the pieces. Maybe due to the fact most of the models are pre-pubescent and have not grown into their shapes.
Chic, elegant, architectural. My kind of collection.
The only things I did not look were those silly string sandal shoes and the trench coat. I hate trench coats. Sorry, Tim, I know you think it's one of the "Ten essentials", but they bulk me (and most women) up.
Calvin Klein lives! Chic, minimalist designs that will last beyond one season. The color palette is versatile, soft and subdued, providing the perfect backdrop for the wearer to express her uniqueness through her choice of accessories. As my fashion-savvy French Mother would have stated after viewing the photos with a slightly tilted head and flirtatiously lowered lashes, 'C'est magnifique..'. The minor fit issues on a few of the pieces have more to do with the choice of waifish models than the clothing itself, I believe.
Some of these dresses (one shouldered in particular) should have a lining or a slip at the very least.
Sigh. I never know how to judge these things. I truly admire the cohesion of the collection, the modernist aesthetic, and how many of the looks are at once complex and minimal. Pretty stunning in those regards, actually.
But while I love some of the individual pieces (that first coat, the sleeveless black dress, and the origami dress right before it) there's a lot of it I would never wear. And, like others here, I despise beige.
Of course, all women are "real women", but as a woman amply supplied by nature with plenty of T&A, CK has never worked for me. Although I appreciate the aesthetic, I could never wear it.
It's all very... monotone. Like how can you pick out anything when it is beige on beige on light tan on dark white on beige? And the fit DID look odd in several places.
Have to say though that my first thought was how young the models looked. Surely they can't really be the middle schoolers they appear to be...? Even if they are really older, I'm not sure if I want to see child-like models wearing clothes that would typically be bought by middle aged (on average) women. It's just a hard look to imagine on someone else, and doesn't seem to help the collection on the runway.
What the fuck there is not ONE ethnic model.
Although the review referred to the clothes as sculptural, they looked more architectural to me, particularly the first half of the collection. There was a structure and stiffness to them, maybe that's the flattened effect that was talked about.
The interest to me was in the details. I didn't mind the color palette, but one of the problems with beige or any other light color is that any issues with fit are obvious. Few of these clothes were flattering on the models so I hate to think how they'd look on anyone else. And the shoes are killer, both to look at and probably to wear.
Ummm... I'm a little surprised at all the comments on how young the models looked given that this is CALVIN KLEIN.
Pretty. Pretty boring. I hope they didn't invite Nina to the screening.
First this,
"Precise folds, tucks, and creases illustrated Costa's movement motif,"
And then..
"Basically we put all the fabrics through a flattening process," Costa said. "A lot of the shapes got changed, were made them smaller and, again, organic as it was flattened. Wherever the pleat went, it stayed."
My first thought is are the pleats "precise", as the first quote suggests or randon, as the second quote suggests?
Secondly, I don't know what the hell Costa is talking about in the 2nd quote. Flattening process? Shapes got changed? Got smaller and became organic? Where the pleats went it stayed? That is not standard textile or garment production speak, I call bullshit.
It was really weird watching the slideshow.
The models looked way too young for the clothes and the only other thing the show elicited for me was how I've seen similar stuff being worn beautifully by South American chic women over the age of 40.
The lack of colour didn't bother me too much. CK's clothes aesthetic always leaves me with the impression the clothes act as a canvas for the wearer's beauty and style to be splashed on.
But those models... too freaky.
sewing siren:
Your response to Costa's quotes really made me laugh. I come from an arts background (art history research & studio) and know my way around the old sewing roon, but for the life of me could NOT make heads or tails what he was trying to say.
Did he think his clothes would look more youthful if he placed them on infants? Seriously, those girls look prepubescent.
Anyway, there were a couple of looks I really liked... the second one is just cute, and that first jacket- I covet. I just can't help being a bit bored by the monochrome color scheme. Then again, it all is very very Calvin Klein.
Nope - sorry. The 'organic' pleats look like the cloth was cut incorrectly or sewn by committee. I didn't get any feel for this at all except boredom.
It's nice and safe, clean uncluttered, too much extra fabric where it shouldn't be. A little mono for "resort wear" plus a little too much fabric for resort wear?
Did not like the trench with the extra flap on the left hip and it looks way too bulky.
-burnsie
I love the idea of animal skins and translated on the runway to pleated silks and python coats. I personally love the collection!
"My first thought is are the pleats "precise", as the first quote suggests or randon, as the second quote suggests?
Secondly, I don't know what the hell Costa is talking about in the 2nd quote. Flattening process? Shapes got changed? Got smaller and became organic? Where the pleats went it stayed? That is not standard textile or garment production speak, I call bullshit."
Perhaps he just doesn't know how to express himself well in English.
There's NOTHNG in this line I haven't seen from Calvin Klein for the past.
Boring. 'Nuff said.
-----StkrShock
It's all nice, but kind of generic looking - like it's all been done before.
Mina said...
Perhaps he just doesn't know how to express himself well in English.
It wasn't my intention to make fun of his English. I am suggesting that they probably came up with non-sensical terms to make it sound expensive.
There is a process called "calendering" where fabric is passed though rollers at tremendous pressure to produce a pattern ( like moire`). I suspect however that some chemical treatment (which is how plisse` is created) was used to produce that irregular pucker effect on some of the fabric in this collection.
He certainly isn't going to come out and tell journalists that they used chemicals to achieve this effect, because it sounds unappealing.
Aside from using underage models - they are all quite...white...very white...This would have been the
perfect showcase for a model of color - any color - instead of using pale white and somewhat anemic children.
I enjoyed the textures very much, but the models are MUCH too thin and bony. They look like concentration camp victims. I'd love to see some of these styles on women with curves.
It's very...Model UN.
With all that beige, a model like Nazri or Camilla would have made that collection SING! Instead, they chose pasty 12-year old zombies, and they made those clothes look like shrouds. As our Nina would say 'not aesthetically pleasing!'
These clothes are ugly and unflattering even on the walking sticks he's got for models. What with all the weird hip and waist folds? Ugly, ugly, UGLY.
I've always been stumped by the continual lack of color in all of the Calvin Klein collections.
Sleek, yes. Elegant, yes. But dull to the eye? Absolutely.
Beautiful and simple. Sometimes it's not about big bows and feathers.
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