Couture 101

Just to shake things up a bit and because last week's challenge fostered a wide diversity of strong opinions, we thought we'd take a minute to look at the concept of couture and what it means.

Now, make no mistake, we're fabulous, but we thought we'd ask a true fashion bitch for her opinion, so we contacted our good friend George at Rafe New York and he graciously offered his take:

"Haute Couture to the public at large is oft about the outlandish. People who only watch the couture shows in the media but don't deal with the aspects of fashion that include (or strive to be like, as it may) this highest form of the fashion industry's craft only see the garish elements that make the couture shows exactly that: SHOWS. People in the industry - whether editors, fellow designers or clients - can mentally edit what is shown on the runway to reveal what the couture was originally (and for some, still is) about: made-to-order clothing customers will actually wear, created with the highest levels of craftsmanship, from construction to embellishment. So high, in fact, that the couturiers design on a level of difficulty that matches or continually tests the metier of its craftsmen, and makes these clothes unfit for any sort of mass production. The show aspects are there to entertain, inspire and spur imagination more than to be taken literally. "Crazy fashion" does not equal Couture.

If you watch the challenge again, you'll see that Tim Gunn made certain to say that the contestants were to imbue their gowns with couture elements, because really, none of these designers are actually qualified to make couture, since you have to have an atelier, be certified by the Chambre, etc., etc.

Pnut's entry, from concept to pattern to execution, was the closest (though not without missteps, in my estimation) to a couture gown, because his design pushed the limits of the dressmaking craft. Laura's, while pretty, was a simulacrum of past couture work, more of an ode to couture than actual attempt at it. Michael's ruched gown could have qualified from its concept, but since Couture is about craftmanship as much as it is about design to showcase the craft, it fell flat (had Malan been in the competition, he might have had a chance at excelling in this challenge). Uli's gown was beautiful, but when you consider that she has done most, if not all, of the elements on her gown in past challenges, it certainly
didn't push the envelope enough to qualify as a stretch into the land of couture and is perhaps why it didn't get the highest marks from the judges.

Kayne's work, well - since Haute Couture represents the highest form of the dressmaking craft - it needs to reflect the highest taste levels as well (although to be fair, there are some tacky couture designs in existence). Couture can be about the simplest suit, just constructed impeccably, so much so that you can often wear a couture dress inside out because even the lining is equally beautiful. Kayne took the route of creating a show dress because in his mind it seemed Haute Couture is about show clothing, but he just tried to show too much. As Coco Chanel once said, "Elegance is refusal." Had he edited himself and focused on one or two aspects of his design instead of this "everything and the kitchen sink" attitude, he might have had a chance. At least it fit extremely well. But that just makes him a good dressmaker, not necessarily a great designer. Yet."

To our surprise and delight, the fabulous Rafe himself offered his opinion:

"Haute Couture as far as I can remember from my FIT days and my general exposure from working within the fashion industry means "High Fashion," but practically it means "made to order".

The French take couture very seriously. The have an association for couturiers that presides over the coming and goings of the shows, who can show, when to show, etc. They have rules as to what merits a "maison" to be considered entry to the French couture shows. I seem to recall you have to show a minimum of 30 looks and must employ a minimum number of "petite mains" (little hands or seamstresses). What makes couture...couture? Since the premise is that the garment is made to order, that means the process will require several steps, fittings with the client, first with the muslin and then a 2nd with the actual fabric mostly "basted" (lightly stitched) on to the underpinnings, etc. A couture garment will usually involve some embroidery from the best embroidery company Lesage, the best silks from Bucol, lots of beadwork and hand stitching; sleeves have to be set in by hand; lapels have to be sewn on horsehair canvas not pressed/fused like most ready-to-wear garments; linings will be silk, not acetate; and so on. The final outcome should be a perfect fit and exactly as you envisioned it. Couture designers show twice a year to clients and then these clients will make appointments and select which designs from the show they liked and will make necessary adjustments or different color choices. This is why it is couture because it is made for you, just for you and exactly as you want it.

The whole idea that a couture garment can be made in 2 days, as Project Runway suggested, is ridiculous but it was an attempt to address a wider audience and I suppose it makes good TV to see those guys fret and sweat. Unfortunately, most of the designs ended up looking like mother of the bride or prom dresses on acid, especially Kayne's. Poor guy, he can't help himself. Everything but the kitchen sink was on that monster of a gown. Oy!"

Thanks, fabulous bitches! We'll be back in a little bit to rip Uli's gown off her model and stomp on it (figuratively, of course).