Before we bid a final auf Wiedersehen to Emily, let's take a look at her Smoke & Mirrors collection. Her website tells us:
"Smoke & Mirrors manufactures clothes that creative and edgy women want to wear. Whether their customer is a fashionista, entrepreneur, actress or mom, Smoke & Mirror's goal is to make a woman feel beautiful, sexy and powerful. With a focus on luxury fabrics, funky details and trims, women will shine while making a statement."
We have to say, if it's statement-making clothes, then these are barely whispering. Take each piece on its own and there's nothing really wrong with them. Some are quite nice. Looking at the whole collection, though, and it all looks very one-note and simplistic. It's all inoffensive, but there's no excitement or even interest generated by silhouette, fabric, embellishments or color.
[Photos: Courtesy of smokeandmirrorsclothing.com]
Emily Brandle Fall 2008 Collection
Reviewed by TLo
on
Sunday, August 03, 2008
Rating: 5
148 comments:
I dunno, gayboys.
That sheer dress over the panties seems to make a statement.
Not a good one, but still a statement...
Tootie-licious!
Bye Emily! Love you! Mean it!
Comment from my 8-year-old daughter: "They all look like they're singing the 'I'm a Little Teacup' song."
Other than that, basic and dull.
completely forgettable.
It's all so underground.
I like some of the dresses, I can see myself wearing them for a night out for example, but I find the collection simple and unmemorable.
Unoriginal. Forever 21. That's it.
I think it's a very cute collection.
Jenn said:Comment from my 8-year-old daughter: "They all look like they're singing the 'I'm a Little Teacup' song."
That is so perfect. Once again -
why why why the little girl poses?
What is even worse - the youth and fragility of these (very all white) models make the "provocative" poses look like kiddy porn.
There's nothing wrong with the way the models are posing. Geez, have you people ever opened a real fashion magazine?
the looks are simple and basic but definitely something i'd wear on a daily basis. i love the first dress.
I REALLY hate plaid. It is the most unflattering pattern imaginable!
"Mariana (The Unoriginal) said...
I REALLY hate plaid. It is the most unflattering pattern imaginable!"
I hate plaid pants...but that's because I was forced to wear them when I was growing up in the 1970's.
As with all her PR designs, I am unimpressed. If more of this is what we'd have seen at Bryant Park, then I hope everyone who has disagreed with her auf'ing sees what they're really missing, i.e. not a damn thing.
I actually think they're quite cute! They're basics -- nothing TOO too fashion forward.
ooohh I like!!
You know, these designers are sent home for a reason.
I loved the first half of this collection, then it went slightly awry with a few definite misses.
Some definitely cute daily pieces but nothing "wowed" me.
She should stick to what's obviously her strength - maternity clothes... from the 50's.
It is adorable but, it's nothing new or exciting.
But y'know, for every Alexander McQueen, you need a few designers that make clothes for a more mainstream audience. The big heart cut-out didn't make me want to retch, and I'm not sure why ... that doesn't sound like a compliment, but it is.
All this is to say - I bet she has a better career than Elisa from Season 4. And at least none of these models didn't pose with their skirts lifted high above their heads.
Not impressed but not bad either.
I thought they were hooky at first but now I really like some of them!
I am a bit disappointed, I was expecting more but I like some of the dresses though.
Each dress in the collection looks like she had until midnight tonight and a budget of $50 to make it.
But the gray swingy bubble dress thing is alright. Not stupendous, but alright.
I won't miss her.
It's cute and wearable and in no way edgy. If I think, "I'd wear that" you are not in edgy territory.
As for the modeling, yes, I hate that "I'm just a wittle girl" posing and I could give a rat's ass if it's in all the mags. It's still horrible. Esp. when done at Open Mike Night at YukYuks.
Okay, so is it bad that I find the hosiery more interesting?
I like this collection. It's fairly simple, but it's a very attractive collection. There are some interesting elements and the designs are flattering to the figure. Almost everything in this collection is something I could consider wearing.
I like the shoes. Does that count?
Does dull = wearable? True, there is no creative flash or verve in these designs, but they are excellent mainstream ready to wear.
This collection is boring, boring, boring.
I haven't decided my favorite yet, but I love this collection. It's elegant and gorgeous without being elaborate or anything.
I love this collection. Thanks for putting it together Tlo.
At first glance, I thought it was bland...nothing screamed out, caught my eye--it was just too simple but looking deeper they are great basics.
I don't know... looks rather a lot like someone worked her way throught the simplicity pattern catalog and figured adding an inch here and there to a hemline (or subtracting) makes it original.
I like the collection I just wished she had added more colors to her standard palette.
Jenna said...
I don't know... looks rather a lot like someone worked her way throught the simplicity pattern catalog and figured adding an inch here and there to a hemline (or subtracting) makes it original.
My thoughts exactly!
It's cute. Still, I have to admit I’m not loving this collection. I think the looks are just not that desirable.
I like some of the looks but don't see much that hasn't been done before.
I'm so tired of seeing the same dress on every girl.
Very cute collection!!
It's a pretty collection, but aside from the coats, I wasn't as captivated as I was hoping for my personal taste.
This is a very boring collection. I could just buy a bunch of slinky stuff from Forever 21.
Oh, now I get it: "Underground" = "Totally ordinary".
I have to pay a visit to Forever 21 everyone keeps talking about this place. It can't be that bad.
The line is cute, and I actually like some of the dresses, but I need to take a better look at them.
*yawn*
One again Emily, you talk big but fail to deliver. Underground? Hardly, honey.
I think they're very nice, but nothing I can't buy at H&M or someplace like that. Which is fine for off-the-rack sort of accessibility, but if you're looking for couture or something "high end" (and the prices to match) then you need to do something more than this. Would I wear some of it? Sure. But then again, I wear H&M stuff, too. :)
So much for 'underground.' Not to say I dislike it, or anything...just seems very commercial and 'off the rack.' I like the little heart on the back of the jacket...one of the few interesting details.
I hate it when people design entirely in black and red. Both of them totally overwhelm my coloring, but they're so standard! Sometimes it's hard to find dressy clothes in something besides black, red, or white.
But that's just my personal whine.
Ugh, those models and the one legged pose.
I have to agree with most of the posters here. "Cute" seems to be the keyword. Yes, the collection is cute, not much more.
----StkrShock
How edgy and underground.
Smoke and Mirrors, indeed. Saying that something is "edgy" does not make it so.
Edgy? No.
Flattering? No.
Boring? Yes.
There's nothing wrong with these clothes, but, once again, there's a total disconnect between the clothes and the way they are talked up. Most of the time, when I read the descriptions of the clothes provided by the designers (or their PR person) and then scroll down to view the collection, I'm left scratching my head.
I would defend her other collections on her website as more interesting than this one if not for the fact that if you look closely, she's basically just designing the same clothes every season and just changing the colors/patterns. One-note, whiny bitch.
Not liking the plaid or the gray heart capey thing, but I seriously covet that first red dress.
CanIgetYouAnything? said...
I have to pay a visit to Forever 21 everyone keeps talking about this place. It can't be that bad.
It's no worse than H&M. It's mostly cute, cheaply-made clothes for younger people (not just 21-year-olds). Nothing mindblowing, but nice for the prices. The people making all the Forever 21 comments haven't been there for awhile. I'm thinking DEB (barf) is more along the lines of what they mean.
Exactly - The problem with the collection is not that it's cute/wearable - since none of that's a bad thing; and I do think a lot of it is. The problem with the collection is that Emily calls it "statement-making" and "underground", and the collection is not really either of those things. I understand that she wants advertise her clothes in an appealing way, but she needs to figure out a way to do so without completely misrepresenting them. Of course, she could believe that it's actually underground and statement-making, in which case, Emily, get a clue.
I bought those same stockings from Wal-Mart. Cute, but not the luxury look she claims.
Ok, sorry for 3 posts almost in a row, but I just had to mention it once I noticed: If you go to her website and look at her collections there, she has NAMED all of her pieces/looks. This season was pretty innocuous (though stupid), with names like Tunic, Mexico, and Spun, however Fall/Winter 2007 was girls' names, like Tonie, Sophie, Tina, Jackie and Sally. That shit is full-on Delia*s! Hahaha
I think this is just another case of in-the-spotlight-too-soon-itis. Some people in creative fields hit the ground running, but most need time and experience to develop their talents.
I like the red wrap dress, but otherwise, *yawn*
"Bailey said...
CanIgetYouAnything? said...
I have to pay a visit to Forever 21 everyone keeps talking about this place. It can't be that bad.
It's no worse than H&M. It's mostly cute, cheaply-made clothes for younger people (not just 21-year-olds). Nothing mindblowing, but nice for the prices. The people making all the Forever 21 comments haven't been there for awhile. I'm thinking DEB (barf) is more along the lines of what they mean."
I shop there often and you can find trendy stuff for a good price. It won't last more than a few washes but it's a way to spice up your wardrobe without breaking the bank.
You can't hide a boring collection behind basic colors.
Pretty dresses, but a really boring collection. There's nothing special about it.
It looks like the stuff every college-aged woman has in her wardrobe. Not exciting and new, admittedly, but wearable, useful - and disposable when trends change.
All the dresses are pretty darn cute. The silver stretch one is definitely my favorite.
"..luxury fabrics, funky details and trims..."
I absolutely hate the word "funky". In fashion terms, I really don't know what its trying to convey. When I think "funky", I think music, or a weird smell.
That's exactly how I felt, it's not my style but it is cute indeed.
Is cute the new ugly?
bailey's comment "that shit is full on delia*s!" = HILARIOUS! i know exactly what you mean!
Hahaha, this pose cracks me right the hell up. Seriously, what the hell? Did she pop a disc?
hah! lol!!!
the first pose looks like she is trying to scratch her snatch.
the second one is look-at-me-pretending-to-make-out -with-someone.
lame.
Smoke and Mirrors:
"A deceptive, fraudulent or insubstantial explanation or description."
Hmmm...how very appropriate.
The gray with burgundy (4th row from the bottom) looks like a copy of the pink dress SJP wore during the season finale of SATC when she was pregnant. That dress was pink. Anyone recall who designed it?
I really like this collection! The looks are trendy and very fashionable. Perfect for the young urban woman.
B-O-R-I-N-G!
I could walk into at least 50 shops in Manhattan and see dresses of this caliber. Will they sell? Probably? Are they the product of the "next great designer"? Absolutely not.
From here EW interview:
"I make a beautiful collection, Smoke & Mirrors. My best friend and business partner and I have been doing it for a year and a half, and you know, that's what it's really about, the real work."
Quite frankly I don't see much difference between her real work and her PR work.
Now I am no fashion expert but the way some of those models are standing/posing bugs the shit out of me.
So they have some sort of scoliosis or are they really really drunk?
"Scarlet said...
I could walk into at least 50 shops in Manhattan and see dresses of this caliber. Will they sell? Probably? Are they the product of the "next great designer"? Absolutely not."
That's very true, nothing groundbreaking. Well, many people here liked the collection and I'm sure it sells; just take a look at the list of stores where she sells her designs. The question is 'is she the next great American fashion designer?' I would say no.
Those trapeze coats are very sweet, aren't they?
-- desertwind
It's a very simple collection in the colors (red, black, gray) that I have worn every single winter season since I graduated from college, so, naturally, I kinda like it. And being of Scots-Irish descent, I have no problem with plaid. ;-) I don't consider it avant garde or cutting edge, but I would wear just about anything in the collection.
Except the negligee dress. Because I'm old. :-\
I think this is a good collection, especially if she wants to _sell_ it to clients in a boutique setting.
TLo, thanks so much for all you do to enhance the Project Runway experience. I am frequently amazed when I come to the site and see the new stuff you posted.
As a Project Runway contestant, Emily was alright but I was not wowed. Looking at her collections through the "don't bore Nina" prism, they fail. But I have to hand it to Emily, she has not yet turned 30 and she, along with her partner, is designing clothes, getting them manufactured and distributed to stores. So Emily deserves major props for that.
Other designers may be able to better back up their claims of being edgy and underground, but unfortunately for too many of them that edge tends to be seen more on paper than on a runway or in a store.
So Emily, keep on doing what you do! Holla!
It is a simple collection but everything is wearable therefore it will sell. I just find the description of the collection a little naive.
Her line is only 2 years old. She's better off then most designers on the show.
Isn't this the Holly Golightly-Salvador Dali girl? All of those dresses, while cute, look like stuff I could buy as a Simplicity pattern at Jo-Ann Fabrics.
It's almost all pretty cute, and as you said, pretty bland. But 90 percent of it is definitely wearable -- I think it's clear here she's trying to sell clothes that your average PR viewer might actually buy. Her work on PR was, in my opinion, not even up to these standards. And her snotty reaction to getting the axe was even worse than Jerry Tam's.
" Miranda said...
Isn't this the Holly Golightly-Salvador Dali girl? All of those dresses, while cute, look like stuff I could buy as a Simplicity pattern at Jo-Ann Fabrics."
No, that's Leanne.
Bettie said...
" Miranda said...
Isn't this the Holly Golightly-Salvador Dali girl? All of those dresses, while cute, look like stuff I could buy as a Simplicity pattern at Jo-Ann Fabrics."
No, that's Leanne.
No, that's Jennifer.
It's not THAT hard to tell them apart!
A. Leanne - Cute nerdy girl with glasses, designs nerdy secretary ruffles
B. Jennifer - Plain mousy girl with chipmunk mouth and teeth, designs old lady crap she thinks is surreal
C. Emily - Awkward-looking but pretty hipster chick, propensity for wearing headbands and describing her shit as underground
D. Kenley - Broad from the 40's, looks like Bettie Page and actually designs nice things
many are cute, several i could even see wearing, but none that shout "wow!!! i must have it". i realize that she is not designing for my demographic (50-something, suburban mom), but i really don't see anytbing all that special for the younger crowd either. cute, wearable clothes does not an edgy fashion designer make....
Big yawn. That's all.
The only statement that collection makes is "Chanel Vamp lipstick looks modern again." As statements go, that's up there with Francisco Franco being still dead.
In whose world are V-neck wrap dresses interesting or statement-making?
Forget H&M and Forever 21, I'm pretty sure that Old Navy has, wihtin the past year, sold something similar to every every garment in this collection. And Old Navy is a lot of things, but statement-making isn't one of those things.
I think Emily has figured out how to "give the people what they want" and she'll probably be commercially successful. I don't see anything "underground" or "Salvador Dali" (except those contorted, melting models) but look at the Built by Wendy line: not that unusual, but a big hit with her target market. In short: no, she's not tomorrow's trend-setting designer, but for that very reason, she might be quite successful.
Nina would be bored to tears!
"Anonymous said...
I think Emily has figured out how to "give the people what they want"
You mean people with very simple needs?
Bailey said...
No, that's Leanne.
No, that's Jennifer.
It's not THAT hard to tell them apart!
A. Leanne - Cute nerdy girl with glasses, designs nerdy secretary ruffles
B. Jennifer - Plain mousy girl with chipmunk mouth and teeth, designs old lady crap she thinks is surreal
C. Emily - Awkward-looking but pretty hipster chick, propensity for wearing headbands and describing her shit as underground
D. Kenley - Broad from the 40's, looks like Bettie Page and actually designs nice things
I stand corrected. BTW, I love the way you described each one of them : )
Gorgeous Things said...
The gray with burgundy (4th row from the bottom) looks like a copy of the pink dress SJP wore during the season finale of SATC when she was pregnant. That dress was pink. Anyone recall who designed it?
I'm ashamed that I don't know squat about world politics, but I do have an answer to your question: Patricia Field (stylist for SITC) had to make that dress in a pinch for the season finale when the clothes they picked for SJP didn't fit owing to her being super duper preggers.
Meh.
Though the see-though one has a market with exhibitionists like Paris, Britney and Tara Reid. Keep Madonna away, please.
Yawn. The statement is "I'm bored out of my mind".
Out of the post: anyone knows if the project runway philipines was bradcasted? There´s no torrent!
AndrƩ said...
Out of the post: anyone knows if the project runway philipines was bradcasted? There´s no torrent!
You can watch it here
TLo
"andrƩ said...
Out of the post: anyone knows if the project runway philipines was bradcasted? There´s no torrent!"
It's on YouTube. It is a "hot mess", but I can see myself watching it when I feel I'm not getting enough Project Runway. Luckily, TLo are keeping me busy for now. Not to mention Project Runway Australia!
Coming to you direct! From Ann Taylor Loft!
Not a bad thing. But she seems to just not get where her talents lie. I have a strong suspicion this stuff is way overpriced.
God, I hate that limp, hanging to one side pose. It always looks like they're posing that way to try and disguise fit issues through the waist.
Also, the side dangly girl in the silver dress needs to work on hand placement. She looks like my 4-year-old niece once she passes the crossing-legs-squirming stage of needing to go potty.
bizzy said "You mean people with very simple needs?"
Yes, just the common peasants we are forced to endure day in, day out. The ones who point at truly refined design and excellent taste say "Wow, look at the emperor's new clothes!"
In the words of the immortal Nina:
"No comment."
Reminds me of stuff I can buy on the Rockabilly sites ... but theirs is more interesting ... sheesh ... is everyone edgy nowadays?
sixgables said If I think, "I'd wear that" you are not in edgy territory.
Ditto. Some cute things there --- thanks for sharing.
And I still think she sounded her own death knell when she didn't listen to Papa Gunn.
May I take the opportunity to say how GREAT it is to have another season of PR AND PRG? This blog adds so much to my day . . . and afternoon . . . and time I should spend with clients . . . and doing work . . .
The writing style of that little blurb is really bad. Why talk about your own brand in the third person?
I do like that first silver dress. But everything else is blah.
I think most of the pieces look wearable. Like something you would find at Macy's. I'd try on a few of them at least... but it all depends on the fit, materials, and price for clothes like these.
" Anonymous said...
Why talk about your own brand in the third person?"
Mariana The Unoriginal says that expressing yourself in the third person is very IN right now.
granted, emily might be young, but as a point of comparison, look at how realized, refined, and gorgeous jillian’s collection is—they’re both 27.
~~zoƫ
p.s. and looking at emily’s three designs from the show, in addition to this collection, she seems to have a thing for short hems, yes?
Zoƫ said...
emily might be young, but as a point of comparison, look at how realized, refined, and gorgeous jillian’s collection is—they’re both 27.
~~zoƫ
You know, that's a very good point.
"I think most of the pieces look wearable. Like soemthing you would find at Macy's.
- edhadams23 -
You're so right, edhadams23. I admit I'm an occasional Macy's shopper and just picked up several pieces from INC. similar to Emily's "underground" looks. Same color story. Similar silhouettes. I also picked up a number of other very nice underground pieces from an even newer line they're carrying, mac & jac. Again, same color story. And similar silhouettes. I guess "underground" has become a bit of a household word. And mass produced at that.
- edina -
- edina -
This group of 'designers' seem to have no real historical view of fashion, with the possible exception of Kenley (hence the glazed over look on most of their faces when Nina intoned 'Lacroix and Ungaro' during her review of Kenley's dress). As most posters have observed, Emily's clothing line has nothing memorable, noteworthy, or fashion forward about it, and the collection hss nothing to 'say' worth listening to...called her a Mall Denizen before the first episode, and will continue to stand by that comment. Oh, and also delusional...
Only shorter women who weigh under 85 pounds can wear these clothes. Are there enough women under 85 pounds to make a living designing for them?
if you have nothing nice to say.......
yeah. snore.
seen it all - most of which were at macy's.
sorry emily - you talk some big game but don't deliver.
Ok well fall 2008 isn't horrible, but her spring 2008 collection is tres iffy. There are a few "pieces" that are truly heinous.
I would love to find out what her definition of "edgy" is. This does not fit my definition of it. That being said, some of the garments are very cute, but it all looks like stuff we've seen before. I do hope she figures out who she is as a designer and goes on to wonderful things in the future, but I also hope this collection isn't the best of her talent.
Catalog clothes.
Even the photos are boring --
stand in front of a brick wall? Really?
I might be venturing into shark infested waters here but I personally love the clothes. It may not look the most expensive or the most innovative but honestly - what IS innovative these days?
Emily - I love you, girl and I would wear every single piece in that collection!
-Teryn
I wasn't particularly impressed with Emily and her friend's collection. Seems like the only little precious detail around is that heart on the back of the jackets and that just doesn't do it for me.
Brina said: "Her work on PR was, in my opinion, not even up to these standards. And her snotty reaction to getting the axe was even worse than Jerry Tam's."
This, I concur -- have these people learned nothing? When Malan, or Wesley, or Alison got auf-ed, they were kind and generous, and didn't show any attitude, and all are loved and admired. Jerry Tam and Emily couldn't have had WORSE attitudes, and you can hear her whininess coming through loud and clear. She just seems so bitter. And I SO wanted to LIKE her.
But she seems so damn condescending and disingenuous. On one hand, she's whining about being kicked off and saying that she didn't deserve it. On the other hand, she's saying well, none of that matters, it's all about the hard work, and by the way you can see my website SMOKEANDMIRRORS DOT COM. i don't know how many times she said that.
I rarely am this harsh with these designers, as I know they work hard, but Emily: GOOD BYE! And take your snotty attitude with you.
I like a couple of the dresses, but they're not really anything new or innovative. Some of the fabric choices are bothering me, they're too shiny and/or cheap-looking. Very Joyce Leslie. I like those jackets, nothing new but cute.
Those models need some help. Direly.
*yawn*
i'm missing the powerfulness in little short high waisted babydoll dresses.
There's one look that just screams 1950's pregnancy clothes-that gray short-sleeve jacket- my mother wore tops just like that...
Brent W.
I generally agree with your comment, but ALISON KIND AND GENEROUS!?
Zoƫ said...
emily might be young, but as a point of comparison, look at how realized, refined, and gorgeous jillian’s collection is—they’re both 27.
A couple of the pieces in Jillian's collection took my breath away, but can I buy or order those pieces right now? No. The plan is for Jillian's clothes to be in stores by the end of this month and I hope it pans out; I also hope that the mass produced items maintain the integrity of the original designs. I am really rooting for Jillian to defy the odds, so if she can match Emily's accomplishments of getting clothes manufactured and in stores and then surpass her because her designs are more interesting and unique, more power to her - woo-hoo.
Brent W. said...
This, I concur -- have these people learned nothing? When Malan, or Wesley, or Alison got auf-ed, they were kind and generous, and didn't show any attitude, and all are loved and admired. Jerry Tam and Emily couldn't have had WORSE attitudes, and you can hear her whininess coming through loud and clear.
Alison didn't show attitude???
I get why Emily and Jerry should have been aufed and I am all for self-reflection and owning up to mistakes, but for some reason I can appreciate them standing behind their work. Being a gracious loser is admirable, but what does being “loved and admired" get a PR aufee, a lifetime supply of blogspace on Bravotv.com. In the meantime, sore losers Emily and Jerry are returning to their viable businesses.
standing weird is not a meaningful statement
If you think this collection is bad, go to their site and see the spring/summer one....tackytastic! She sure does love that shiny cheap fabric
I think Leanne shops for those clothes..
Shiny yuck.
I really like most of this collection, and these pieces would be perfectly fine if she didn't insist on describing her designs as "edgy" and "underground". Where, Emily? I just don't see it. They're nice, simple, pretty dresses. That's about it.
yeah why do people hate emily so much? some of these comments are really using these clothes (which im not that fond of, but are by all means fine and cute) to sling mud at her. Just because she was trying to pitch herself as "underground"? little much people?
"Unoriginal. Forever 21. That's it."
I was just in there and saw way more inspired looks in Forever 21 than I see in this collection. Blah. Not sure who Emily blew to get on runway...
Yawn. It looks like ass.
The plaid shirt looks an awful lot like this Vogue Pattern. http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V8353.htm??tab=list/dresses_includes_designer&page=all
DRAG QUEENS WITH CHRIS MARCH! YAY!!!!
two words-Fashion Barn!
models have watched way way way *WAY* too much america's next top model. Not that the clothes are interesting but the posing is doing them no favours.
Looks like stuff you buy at jcpenny
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