From left, Liya Kebede, Sessilee Lopez, Jourdan Dunn, and Naomi Campbell
The July issue of Vogue Italia coming out next week is the much-speculated-upon "all-black" issue featuring fabulous bitches such as Liya Kebede, Sessilee Lopez, Jourdan Dunn, Naomi Campbell, Chanel Iman, Veronica Webb, Iman, Tyra Banks, Alek Wek, Pat Cleveland, Karen Alexander, and America’s Next Top Model contestant Toccara Jones. The issue has only black models, and all the features are related to black women in the arts and entertainment.
Cathy Horyn from the New York Times spoke to Italian Vogue editor Franca Sozzani and photographer Steven Meisel about the project.
"RACIAL prejudice in the fashion industry has long persisted because of tokenism and lookism.
“We already have our black girl,” says a designer to a fashion-show casting agent, declining to see others. Or: “She doesn’t have the right look.” Laziness, paranoia and pedantry may also have something to do with the failure to hire black models for shows and magazine features in any meaningful number, but, hey, that’s just a guess.""[Sozzani] She said that, as an Italian, she has been intrigued by the American presidential race and Mr. Obama, which was one source of inspiration when she and
Mr. Meisel began discussing, in February, the idea of an all-black issue. Also, she was aware of the lack of diversity on the runways in recent years and the debate it fueled last fall in New York, where Bethann Hardison, a former model who ran a successful agency, held two panel discussions on the topic."
"Mr. Meisel has his own theories about why black models, save for the token few, have disappeared from runways. “Perhaps the designers, perhaps the magazine editors," he said. "They are the powerful people. And the advertisers. I have"asked my advertising clients so many times, ‘Can we use a black girl?’ They say no.” The concern is that consumers will resist the product, he said. “It all comes down to money."On the one hand, we think it's a good thing to examine the issue of diversity in the fashion world. On the other hand, an "all black" issue comes off a little gimmicky (with a twinge of imperialism). Still, it's representative of the larger point that people feel such an issue still needs to be put out at all.
On the other, other hand, we'll shamelessly steal a good gimmick if we think it makes an interesting post, so here's our little tribute to all the black models of Project Runway. Take a little stroll down memory lane and gaze at the fabulousness (and a couple trainwrecks).
Season 1
Josiane Barboza
Martinique Mitchell
Season 2
Danyelle Vilmenay
Eden Henderson
Tarah Rodgers
Season 3
Camilla Barungi (Read our interview with fabulous Camilla!)
Danielle Schriffen
Javi Hairston
Katia Biassou
Lindsay Bien Aime
Nazri Segaro
Season 4
Christina Anderson-McDonald
Marcia Mitchell
[Photos: nytimes.com/various sources - Screencaps: Project RunGay]
96 comments:
No one can top Nazri. She was amazing. Makes me wonder what she is up to.
But it is a good reminder that they have to put up with some "weird ass sh**" on that show.
The bowl on the head. Oh my.
Javi = best screencap ever! Whoosh!
Some of these girls have been some of my favorites: Martinique, Tarah, Nazri, and Marcia. Great line-up, though I can barely remember a few of these girls, sadder still that they register in my mind now only because of the horrible clothes they're in (Wendy Pepper's, Vince's).
It would've been great if Tyra had been left off in favor of Toccara and Naomi. I just wanna see her reaction!
I hate to get all "political", but I feel like if they would do an "all white" issue there would be hell to pay...
"Anonymous said...
I hate to get all "political", but I feel like if they would do an "all white" issue there would be hell to pay..."
They do it all the time. Just open any fashion magazine.
Fabulous post, guys! I love love Camilla, Nazri, and Lindsay.
It is a BIG issue (not the magazine) in the industry. I'm glad they did that; it might not change much, but it makes people question things and that's how changes happen.
anonymous at 12:31 - i think the point is that there have been plenty of all-white issues by default.
Anyway, NAZRI!!! i've missed her. And the amazing Camilla. Good times.
And say what you will about Tyra (and believe me, i do as much as the rest), but she knows how take a picture and work a runway. i think she's a fantastic model.
Does anyone know how a small town girl can get her hands on this issue? i'd love to see it but i'm not a subscriber and something tells me it won't be on any endcaps at my local RiteAid.
It's a shame black models are looked over because there are many who are gorgeous.
But notice the vast majority of black models have paler skin tones? Very rare do we see very dark skin in fashion.
Its ashame that in this day and age we need affirmative action even when it comes to modeling. SMDH!
Gosh, anonymous, where have I heard that before?
An all-black issue is not a sign of black priviledge the way an all-white issue is a sign of white priviledge. Allowing for minority-only spaces does not directly or indirectly harm the majority. Since regular, everyday spaces are BY DEFAULT majority spaces, there are tons of "all-white" issues of Vogue.
That head shot of Javi- wow! She is gorgeous!
Nazri is the only model from all four seasons I can remember. She is incredible.
Anonymous said...
I hate to get all "political", but I feel like if they would do an "all white" issue there would be hell to pay...
12:31 PM
Here we go again. The poor, put-upon white folks....
I must admit- I'm a little disappointed that you boys didn't use Danyelle's Eartha Kitt schtick from season 2 in Andre's cheongsam dress. But it was nice to see Eden- one of my faves from season 2- again. When you include the Latinas and the Asian women (though not so many of either group), Project Runway seems to have a respectable record of supporting diversity in its models.
Nazri and Camilla were my favorites, as well as favorite muses for several of the contestants(Remember the tussle over Nazri in Season 3?). Gorgeous is gorgeous, period.
If a designer can work around only one skin palette(Caucasian only?WTF?!)then maybe they need to reassess the extent of their talent, as well as their integrity.
and poor Christina in that awful Simone dress. She just knew she was leaving while wearing that get-up...
Poor Lindsay!
Anony at 12:31--that's because, by having an "black" issue, it's saying the regular default issue of Vogue is white. Which is one of the reasons I'm a little bothered by this whole stunt.
Wow! Season 3 had several black models, that's awesome!
I would be impressed if they featured the work of Black designers, photographers, and writers as well.
~~~~~~~~~~
Yes, poor Lindsay. You should have used a picture of her in one of Uli's fabulous dresses.
Christina was in Ricky's dress there.
Which was no where near has hideous as Lindsay (another one of my faves) wearing Vincent's (okay) dress and his infamous "cooky" bowl hat with chains.
Anonymous said...
and poor Christina in that awful Simone dress. She just knew she was leaving while wearing that get-up...
She is wearing Ricky's colorblock, cut-out, lingere inspired dress.
Nazri! Word.
TLo,
Once again your depth & brave plunges into our culture leave me in awe.
There's also a similar article in July's American Vogue, "Is Fashion Racist?" that I found interesting as well. Iman & former model, Bethann Hardison, who is now an agent, are featured stating their displeasure w/ today's state of non diversity.
As a former model and the aunt of a current Ford model, it saddens me that this discrimination continues, but considering the conversation that went on w/ last week's review of SATC:TM, I'm not surprised.
I read the article in Vogue.
It's not only blacks who were in short sight at many of the runway shows I've been to, it's asians, latinas ...the range of races we have here in L.A.
I'm not saying fashion shows should be p.c. but it is curious that in a multicultural world, there's a limited range on the runway.
Thanks for the photos. They're gorgeous.
I have my own pet theory on the absence of black models. Too many of today's designers demand women who are unnaturally thin. While models have always been thinner than your average trim person, some of the models today (especially runway models) are so thin they look ill or malnourished. Perhaps black models are less willing to starve themsleves to death to acheive that coat hanger/12-year-old boy look the way some white models are. Or maybe, due to differences in physiology, it is much harder for black models to get that look. But I am willing to bet that the reason is cultural. I am a white Hispanic. For years, I have noticed that I am at my most attractive weight when white women think I should drop five pounds but black men think I should gain five more. When the pendulum swings back, we'll see more black models again.
I saw this on another blog a few days ago, and my first thought was that it smacked of tokenism ("Look at us, see, we're not racist!"). As Cedar, above, points out, it seems like a stunt.
But after reading Meisel's comments I feel that stunt though it may be, he's using it to make some important points; this is his version of standing on a soapbox and shouting to bring attention to the racism and stupidity that are present in his industry. I mean, this comment of his just breaks my heart:
I have"asked my advertising clients so many times, ‘Can we use a black girl?’ They say no.” The concern is that consumers will resist the product, he said.
The fact that it takes a stunt or a gimmick to bring attention to this in this day and age is pretty sad.
I think we in the U.S. are so used to seeing "all-white" issues of fashion magazines that to have an "all-black" issue (would that it were U.S. Vogue) would point out just how odd that state really is.
Also, the oddity of almost always having a white woman in any picture that features a black woman (generally more for catalogue modeling).
At any rate, YAY Camilla! She was my favorite PR model ever, since she was the one who really seemed to "get" a designer (Laura) and thus worked the garments better than any model on PR, I think.
Did Sessilee Lopez walk in Christian's finale feather gown?
Also, did anyone notice that Nazri is in the new Old Spice commercials with Bruce Campbell?
Speaking of Christian's finale collection, I was a big fan of how he transitioned from white/light-skinned models into black/dark-skinned models to create contrast between their skin and colors of the clothes they were wearing. Pretty cool...
You know, Martinique and Camilla were amazing, but Nazri wins my favorite PR model ever ever ever.
I had forgotten about that poor girl who Vincent put that ridiculous bowl on her head.
Dear PR:
Please have a Vincent this season. We could all use the comic relief.
Thanks
I have absolutely no problem with an "all black" issue and only wish it were happening with the American Vogue issue. Sometimes it helps to pound a point home with a sledgehammer. There are so many gorgeous women of color out there and it's about time they get their due. And that they continue to get their due. Oh, don't get me started....
On a fluffier note, I heart Camilla and thank TLo for reminding me of her awesomeness.
anonymous 12:43 said But notice the vast majority of black models have paler skin tones?
I noticed that, too. It's apparently okay to be black if your skin tone and features reflect a European standard of beauty.
Which brings me to cubarican's point about differing cultural attitudes toward body size. I think she's made a very good point. I'll never forget Tim's shock when one of his makeover clients expressed a preference for jeans that made her butt look big, and Veronica saying, "Tim, it's a cultural thing." I remember thinking that he must lead a very sheltered life!
I don't get why using black models would turn away customers. I am a pasty-skinned Caucasian girl, and I wish I had the beautiful, creamy-gold skin tone of African American women.
Gimmick? In a fashion mag?...
These girls are so gorgeous.
The robo-interchangeable-deliberately without character-Eastern European-emaciated-dolls look has been really disturbing. Truth is, there is an unending supply of these poor girls.
It's almost as if designers (and their moneymen) are afraid a girl with character will outshine the clothes.
-- desertwind
I agree with brooklyn bomber; I think it is a stunt, but it's a stunt with a point that I can get behind, and I think it's coming from a genuine, intelligent place.
I appreciate that he points out some of the reasoning behind not using black models that come back to the consumer. We can complain all we want about racism in the fashion industry, but we have to support the advertising we want to see with our money.
It's the same thing that happened/happens within the plus size industry. Larger women complain that all of the clothes are shown on 12/14 models, but the marketing shows that putting that same outfit on a 18/20 model in a nearly identical market produces half the sales.
Hopefully this issue will contribute to magazines using more black models all the time, not just in a special issue, but I think we need to remember how much responsibility we all have for what we see in the media.
Damn you boys! My eyes are bleeding from seeing Wendy's balloon tooty fiasco. She should have been booted for that one and saved us for the whole season.
Nazri. She has been the best of all of the models so far.
Nazri is the best model ever, black, white, purple, I don't care. So sizzling on the runway. I'd love to see some of her print work.
But YIKES, so many of those outfits are assaulting my eyes. Especially the very first one with Josianne.
These are all BEAUTIFUL women. Not one distracts from the clothes because of her skin color.
Well thank goodness someone had the b*lls to say something about the sad state of diversity in the fashion industry. The thing I liked best about Cathy Horyn's article was that Steven Meisel considered weight as well;
Over Ms. Sozzani’s initial objections, he also hired Toccara Jones, a full-figure model, who became known from “America’s Next Top Model.” “I wanted to say something about weight, and I’m never allowed to do that,” he said. “I met Toccara and thought, she’s beautiful. What’s the deal with her? She’s great and she’s sexy.”
It's gotten pretty tiresome to watch the same interchangeable array of bored looking, emaciated teenage white chicks clomp down the catwalk on just about every runway show with MAYBE one token 'ethnic' girl – if we’re lucky.
BTW - if the PR producers are peeking at this blog (and we know you do); Cathy Horyn would make a phenomenal judge for PR. She's smart and has a searing dry wit.
Nazri and Camilla RULE!!!!!
Easily my top two PR models to date. They would have mopped the floor with anyone Tyra has had on her show, excepting my straight girl crushs on Katarzyna and Amanda Swafford (is she blind yet?).
Loved seeing the Barbie dress on the model, although I have my little ole version sitting on a bookshelf not ten feet from where I'm typing. Thanks Uncle Nick! :-)
Beautiful women, hilarious clothes, thank you, TLo.
Nazri, Camilla, oh did we miss their fabulosity in Season 4 OR WHAT, bitches!?!? I saw Nazri in a Target TV ad and then, nothing. But to be fair, I don't buy fashion mags so I've probably missed them.
"Gimmick? In a fashion mag?...
These girls are so gorgeous.
The robo-interchangeable-deliberately without character-Eastern European-emaciated-dolls look has been really disturbing. Truth is, there is an unending supply of these poor girls.
It's almost as if designers (and their moneymen) are afraid a girl with character will outshine the clothes.
-- desertwind"
Maybe the designers (or the houses they work for) have decided that the robo-interchangeable-deliberately without character-Eastern European-emaciated-dolls (and may I add pasty-faced) blend into the backgroud so you are looking at the clothes instead of the model.
The trouble with that argument is that clothes accentuate the person not the other way around. You don't know what it will look like on YOU until it is tried on. More would be sold if the designs show personality (whether perceived or real). Let the models have personality instead of being a walking hanger. Why do you thing ANTM is watched by so many?
SisterZip
When remembering the models of PR, two always come to my mind: Nazri and Camilla. Maybe it was Michael's Pam Greer hot pants, and Camilla in Laura's black and white cocktail dress, but these two models are absolutely gorgeous ladies, no matter what they wear!
Iman, Beverly Johnson and Tyra Banks have always been three of my favorite models, ever. Ok, Tyra may have turned into a bit of a diva, but no denying the impact she made.
If this issue of Vogue is a "stunt", it's sure OK by me!! Thanks for the fab article, TLo!!!
I wonder if the presence of a President Barack Obama & First Lady Michelle will influence fashion?
-- desertwind
Stubenville said The thing I liked best about Cathy Horyn's article was that Steven Meisel considered weight as well.
AND age! “I love the history of fashion, obviously, and I love old, and I tried to get as many of the older girls as I could,” he said.
I think I like this guy.
"Anonymous said...
I hate to get all "political", but I feel like if they would do an "all white" issue there would be hell to pay..."
No, that would be just another day at the office.
--GothamTomato
I agree, agnes gooch. How about an American Vogue issue? (And please NOT during Black History Month!) The only problem with an American issue is that Vogue's biggest, most powerful and frequent advertisers would all probably head for the hills for that issue.
As far as the issue being just another gimmick, I'd say that in all likelihood it was indeed, a very calculated one, but one that is at least meaningful in a world that cares less and less each passing day with issues of diverity in the fashion industry and this country for that matter.
Back to the models ---- How awesome of you, TLo, to do a homage to all the PR models of color (I know the article is specifically about Black models, but we've gotta do something about the lack of Asians & Latinas on PR). This time, I'm with the majority of poters and must express love and adulation for Nazri & Camilla, the two most memorable models of color in PR history. I'd also like to add Eden & Tarah to my mix. Love 'em all.
P.S. I hope and pray S5 has a better and more balanced mix of models...who talk and smile and can utter more than one sentence per episode.
- edina -
You guys are AWESOME! What a beautiful homage, Tlo!!! That's what I love about you guys...snarkiness, bitchiness, recognition, praise, and admiration all rolled up in one.
Camilla was born to walk the runway.
Nazri and Martinique are the two best models PR has ever had. Fierce ass bitches!
I love this! I want an all white issue, an all latin issue, all asian....putting up barriers between races is awesome!
Tarah, Camilla, Nazri and Marcia are probably my favorite PR models ever. They were much more memorable to watch and they could make anything look good (and did).
Interesting that I suddenly can't recall the name of a single white PR model that I liked enough to remember the way I remember Nazri and Camilla.
This issue is a statement. The statement that black women are as beautiful as white women and deserve great modeling careers as well. Therefore, I salute the effort and everyone involved.
Lindsay is GORGEOUS even more so in person. I ran into her here in NY.
Marcia is my S4 favorite.
Camilla is my girl. Laura + Camilla = best PR combo EVER.
Martinique moves like a snake. LOVE her.
Boys, you're the best! Thank you for posting this.
Suzanne said-
"You know, Martinique and Camilla were amazing, but Nazri wins my favorite PR model ever ever ever."
Me, too. These are my favorite three. Nazri made the bad stuff she got to wear look good and the good stuff look great. It was the first time I ever really understood it was about more than being gorgeous. Hope all three are prospering in their careers.
As for the racism, editors and designers need to understand the economic power that's building among people of color. Once they see their target reader/buyer shift (and they will) they'll change their tune.
anonymous at 12:31, you are SO right and that bothers me too!
The question is - what will happen next month? Will everything go back to where it was before? I hope this helps things a bit.
We need DIVA-ersity. I'm sick of the same skinny white bitches sashaying down the runway. I blame Prada. She's the one who started this whole thing about casting models who look exactly the same, afraid models were becoming bigger than the clothes, I guess.
Camilla is my absolute favorite, but I also love Nazri. Not a train wreck (Morgana!) among any of these ladies. The basket hat was totally not her fault. And she worked it!
When I open a magazine and see only white models I wonder what planet the magazine's editors live on. It is an outrage. And I see this all the time. I am white, but I want to see the diversity of mankind represented fairly, for Christ sake!
kanani said...
"I read the article in Vogue.
It's not only blacks who were in short sight at many of the runway shows I've been to, it's asians, latinas ...the range of races we have here in L.A.
I'm not saying fashion shows should be p.c. but it is curious that in a multicultural world, there's a limited range on the runway."
The Wall Street Journal ran an article during the last Fashion Week about the dearth of models of color on the runways, and the fact that casting agents are all about hiring a certain type. That type is blonde. They had a bunch of really lame quotes from casting agents and designers (each pointing the finger at the other). I'll try to find a link to the article.
In the meantime, good on PR for hosting more diversity.
pne more reason to love project runway. they've had white, latin, black, and asian models.
"Gorgeous Things said...
The Wall Street Journal ran an article during the last Fashion Week about the dearth of models of color on the runways, and the fact that casting agents are all about hiring a certain type."
It's even worse in Asia and Latin America, for example. Ethnic models have to come here or go to Europe to get any booking.
That's one thing I do respect about PPS--he understands the exotic beauty if black models and knows how to dress them.
Martinique, Tarah, Eden, Camilla, NAZRI, and Marcia were some of the best models who ever graced Project Runway.
Not to mention those fabulous "real" models; Iman and Naomi are as super as models get.
Camilla and Nazri *made* S3, IMO.
But, gosh! They has so many competitions without the models in S4, I forgot they even *had* models...! :-p
As a teacher of advertising-related issues, I have my students take magazines and literally count how many women of color are in them. The numbers NEVER match the percentage of the population women of color actually comprise. When women of color are shown, they are usually animalized, such as by putting them in animal prints (pick up any American magazine, and you'll find this). If you are interested in these issues, a good read is Gloria Steinem's "Sex, Lies, and Advertising" and two good videos about the representation of women and women and men of color in the media are Jean Kilbourne's "Killing Us Softly" and the Media Education Foundation's film "Tough Guise."
i think that everyone is a little bit racist without realizing it, some more than others. if they did an all-white diva- ersity, would be upset as well.
Please allow me my expression of dippy-white-liberal-chick guilt. Thanks TLo for relaying this issue. In the 80's I really thought there was hope with the emergence of Sadie, Lisa Bonet, Kara Young, Whitney Houston, Tracy Chapman, Tina Turner and Jody Whatley being so popular. Unfortunately we are a culture of categories. It is our nature to cut and discard things that don't apply to us. White people at this time seem to be able to exercise their discretion at whatever whim they choose. White people buying Ebony magazine? Uh, no (myself included). I mean how does this apply to me? Even though we are all human and want love, happiness and world peace. White women on the cover does not categorize the reader who is in the checkout line (trying to control her kids) to the point to think the issues on the mag will help/inform to them.
Lemme bitch about the hypocrisy. Vogue Italia will have a white girl on its cover the next month and probably for another 12 months to show it isn't minority centered (God forbid). Nikki Taylor was on the cover of 6 fashion mags in 1 month. Naomi Campbell got the SECOND page cover of Vogue the same month in a leopard bikini. A reader asked Vogue, "When are you going to stop fetishizing black women???!!" One month there was an African model on the cover of Vogue and Anna Wintour had to use her entire editoral page to explain her decision. Don't you think Vogue would be purchased no matter what simply because the name VOGUE is on the cover? According to the gospel of Anna, sales of Vogue magazine drops with the cover model of color. SAD, truly, truly sad. Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue with Julie Campbell as the editor never had a non-white model on the cover during her editorship. She also said that Naomi Campbell was the best body she ever worked with. Hmm. So it was her beautiful FACE that was insufficient.
Steve Meisel? Puhleeze! "How about a black girl?" No, Steven, you say, "I want Iman, Tyra, Waris, Beverly Peele, Chanel Iman, Naomi Campbell, Nazri, Camilla and Marcia on the next Gap ad." He could do so much more in the role that he is in for everyone involved. In a world where minorities are running so many fashion houses, black prejudice is still sadly the aspect that is addressed but we all just accept. Thank you Vogue Italia but see you next month. Thanks for reading this.
Sincerely, Frances Spencer
I don't think the July mag is gimmicky. I think it's brave and about time. We've seen plenty of majority white mags and it's because they make money. They may take a loss on this issue. I applaud Italian Vogue's choice. This month's American Vogue features a story on the lack of diversity in fashion. Gee, we haven't seen those stories over and over and no action taken as a result. At least Italian Vogue is walking the walk. Let's just hope this will not be the first and last issue that features a majority of women of color.
I also hope that we will see greater diversity of models on PR. One or two per season is not enough. Where are the Latino, Asian, Native American models? Imagine a season with a majority of non-white models. It would be a first.
Anonymous said... 5:56 PM
I love this! I want an all white issue, an all latin issue, all asian....putting up barriers between races is awesome!
________________________________
I guess you say this about all of the fashion magazines that only feature white women. How long have you been claiming that these all white issues set up barriers?
Black is beautiful! I think this is a fun way to flaunt it. It's not like it's hurting anyone.
@ Kana
Barnes & Noble sells Italian Vogue.
Borders may too.
Bryan: You have to admit PR has a better representation of diversity than the present fashion runways. Not just ethnic types but different types of girls over the seasons.
In the first 3 seasons the models had presence and personailty but did not look all the same. Just look at season 1 with Martinique, Melissa, Jenny, Morgan and Olga. These girls were very different from each other but they each brought it to the runway when it counted.
S3 you had not only Camilla and Nazri but Marlinda and Amanda. And then you had Grace competing along side Tarah and Eden in S2.
None of these women are carbon copies of each other. Each had a different look and walk but could still present clothes well. I always love how Chloe gave credit to Grace for elevating everythign she wore.
The one thing we should be worrying about is PR not able to attract enough quality models anymore. It's hard to get them to commit if they know they will lose out on auditions despite the potential for good exposure.
Frank
Camilla and Nazri rock! I think they were two of the best, not just of the black models, but of all the PR models.
Wasn't there talk of having a separate show (not sure if was to be a single hour or a series) that follows the models during one season's PR taping? I think it was talked about as part of the Lifetime package.
-- desertwind
I am also tired of the starving, angry, stomping Ukranian teenager on the typical runway. Reminds me of that commercial showing Russion Fashion, Day-vear, Evening-vear, etc. and they were all a grey, shapeless sack. What's wrong with an exotic beauty, instead of bland vanilla? Seems silly to me that in 2008, we are even having this discussion.
So true what people are saying about the angry starving eastern girls. It is not just that they're white but pasty white. Or worse they are like zombies
If thewy came across like Olga on the runway that would be different. The girl may have been tempermental but she could crack a smile at least on stage
Frank
Why have Naomi on the cover along with the other new girls? They should have picked another new girl instead.
Great post, great pictures!
Marcia's an extremely intelligent, well-poised, beautiful young woman whom I've had the opportunity of working with on more than one occasion and enjoyed every minute of it.
Pasty and Ukrainian beautiful, thank you very much! But I know it's not the only kind of beauty.
Thanks for the post and the trip down memory lane, boys. Man, how much do I miss Camilla and Nazri? My two favorite PR models ever.
Bravo! In order to have all ethnicities on a normal issue of any fashion magazine things like this need to be done!; to wake up advertisers, designers, casting directors, and readers like you and me.
I don't keep track of fashion magazines, but there seem to be tons of black models or wannabes on all the reality shows (all the NTMs, She's Got the Look, any show which names the job of females contestants).
So most of them don't actually make it?
gudlooking divas
jasmine celion
cool-hotstuff.blogspot.com
Well, it's a big topic that covers a lot of things. Money is just one issue. So rather than write a long comment, just read what I have to say about race, beauty and perception over here
Margaret, here's a shocker. Most of the contestants on reality shows, of whatever race, "don't actually make it".
The whole statement about ethnic models not selling magazines strikes me as disingenuous. How can a consumer buy what isn't being offered?
It is like it is a self fulfilling prophecy. Editors are warned not to use black models, they don't, so of course they won't sell. Well I refuse to buy fashion mags anymore and choose to spend my well earned, considerable salary elsewhere.
I read on a blog somewhere, that Linda Kelsey, a former Cosmo editor, said she had been warned against using a black cover model because it would affect sales. She did anyway and there was no discernible affect on sales.
I totally applaud the move by Italian Vogue and Meisel and plan to buy multiple copies when they go on sale here in the US just to help them make their point.
And for those who believe it is divisive and racist, I am sure that Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, W, Elle, etc. have all misplaced your many letters to the editor decrying their racism for the lack of the diversity in their issues.
RE: margaret & lilithcat's posts on reality-show contestants "making-it."
Tyra Banks' America's Next Top Model is the first example that comes to mind. With the exception of Eva Pigford (who had marginal success in paper ads and music videos), I really can't think of any truly successful reality-show contestants (of color) that have made it big in the fashion/modeling industry or otherwise.
...and please don't even count Omarosa from The Apprentice.
So Nazri vs Camilla, who is more fabulous?
it's been many years since i was on staff at a fashion mag, but we were absolutely discouraged from putting a black model on the cover. (i seem to recall we did it one february, because the publisher pointed out that it was on newsstands the shortest amt of time and could do the least damage.) and this was in the 90s, when there were MANY more models of color in editorial than there are now.
in catalog, you still see some diversity. but in high fashion, despite all the fake breast-beating and finger-pointing, it is not only uber-white, but a particular narrow look: pale, eggheaded, wide-set eyes, blond or light-brown hair, eastern european, emaciated. the fact that we once thought kate moss was alarmingly skinny is bitterly hilarious now. naomi campbell is not only the "wrong" color, but her body type is a relic. only someone with a ton of power, like steven meisel, seems able to cut thru the color- and body-dictatorialness.
you cannot overstate how bad the situation is. so to me, this ain't a stunt; it's a call to arms.
No matter what our personal beliefs, this issue sure got the conversation started, didn't it?
And these conversations are great, because they get us thinking.
This post makes me wonder: What exactly is the insanely fabulous Nazri up to now?
--GothamTomato
"anonymous said: it is not only uber-white, but a particular narrow look: pale, eggheaded, wide-set eyes,"
Which, of course, makes them all look like they were discovered in Area 51.
--GothamTomato
Yes the all black issue is extreme, but again it goes to make a statement more than to want to be the norm. How many times in the history of the fashion industry have we seen an all white ( European, American etc) magazine or an all white shows and people have not blinked or commented because this is the Norm we have been force feed for years. It's about time that Asian, "black", Latina etc models start speaking up for themselves. Tracey Reese ( a black designer) said she has to specifically request black models for her shows or they won't send them, and that she can't even get the top tier black models because those are the only faces of colors top designers are willing to use i.e. we always see Chanel Iman etc. I can talk about this for days so I'm going to stop now.
Okay I told you I couldn't stop....One trend I have notice for "black" models is that they tend to use a lot of African models, probably because they tend to be natrually thinner than African American models and that in fact they do use "blacker" models e.g. Alec Wek. It's like for a while there they were trying to prove a point " we are going to get the blackest most unique looking person and nobody can say we don't use black models."
Okay I just can't stop myself, I find it hard to believe that Latina, Black and Asian models lower sales of magazines. When many women outside of those races are trying to attain beauty that has always been deemed "ethnic" ( I swear I hate that word). Seriously with all the sun tanning, bronzing, self tanner, lip injections,butt lifts, butt implants.....really? You can't tell me a black/latina women can't sell a product ( magazine) when it seems her beauty is what is most desired today.
Martinique is otherworldly gorgeous.
gotham tomato: seriously. the current look is midway between a schwa and a flounder.
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