Pretty Much EVERYTHING You Need to Know About Tim Gunn
Reviewed by TLo
on
Wednesday, April 02, 2008
Rating: 5
Pretty Much EVERYTHING You Need to Know About Tim Gunn
Wednesday, April 02, 2008 by Author
Danielle Sacks of FastCompany. com (who told us she's a huge fan of the blog - Hi Danielle!) sent us a link to this profile of Tim she wrote and kittens, it's a must-read. We'll be completely honest. At first, we weren't sure we were going to post about this because let's face it, Tim is not exactly under the radar. But then we read the piece and it is by far the most exhaustive and informative profile of the man and his influence that we ever read. It's long, but worth it. A few tidbits:
"McComb knew that his $5 billion company had lost its creative juice. He wanted a chief creative officer, not to dictate product design but to put some meat on the bones of an atrophied design culture. The fact that Gunn ran Parsons's prestigious fashion program -- the source of a good 70% of the designers on Seventh Avenue, from Anna Sui to Tom Ford -- was key."
"Whether McComb's hiring of Gunn in March 2007 was an act of desperation or inspiration is still unclear. Liz Claiborne stock is down sharply since McComb -- one of the youngest CEOs in the industry -- took over, despite his whacking jobs, shuttering brands, and reorganizing what's left. This January, he succeeded in luring another high-profile recruit: Isaac Mizrahi, the designer who jump-started discount mass fashion for Target and boasts his own shows on the Style Network and Oxygen (and even starred in his own one-man off-Broadway show, Les Mizrahi). He will become the Liz Claiborne brand's creative director this summer. With Gunn's help, McComb has also added fashion stalwart John Bartlett to reboot the Claiborne menswear line and acquired the critically acclaimed Narciso Rodriguez."
"Surprisingly, Gunn, who received a degree from Yale in English lit, has never been a fashion designer. His organizational chops and passion for education landed him at Parsons the New School for Design in 1983. In 2000, the longtime chair of the fashion-design school -- an untouchable fiefdom due to its success -- resigned; Gunn, then an associate dean, was charged with finding a replacement. When he pulled back the curtain, he discovered that the program hadn't evolved during the last half of its 100-year history. "The feeling of the department was, 'It's such a success -- the graduates are so famous -- don't do anything to it,' " Gunn recalls. "This great department, in my view, was little more than a dressmaking school."
""Tim's influence at Parsons was a turning point," says designer Diane von Furstenberg, who became CFDA president in 2006. "It put the school on another level." Donna Karan credits Gunn with infusing the program with an intellectual rigor that blends artistry with commerce. "He brought the real world into the school," she says. Over the next two years, Henri Bendel and Saks Fifth Avenue picked up student lines. Since 1999, the school's enrollment has nearly doubled."
"Gunn received a call in January of 2004 from Jane Lipsitz, a producer working with Miramax and the Weinstein Co. Heidi Klum had pitched Harvey Weinstein an idea for a reality-TV show featuring aspiring fashion designers, and they had sold it to Bravo. Lipsitz was looking for an industry consultant to help them behind the scenes. Gunn was skeptical: "I said, 'Fashion reality?' I figured they'd be pulling twentysomethings off the street going, 'Hey, do you want to be a fashion designer?' " But when he found out the producers had done Project Greenlight, a canceled HBO show he admired about amateur filmmakers, he signed on."
"Gunn remembers the first time he saw himself on TV back in 2004. "It was horrifying," he says, sitting cross-legged in Claiborne pin-striped trousers and a matching vest. "It was the night of the Project Runway premier party, and I refused to go. I watched the show at home, alone, peeking out of the sheets of my bed the way I used to watch The Wizard of Oz as a kid."
"The first three episodes of Project Runway bombed. The show had debuted right before Christmas in 2004, but despite the poor response, Bravo believed there was an audience out there for it. As a last ditch effort, the network decided to broadcast a rerun marathon over the holidays. By the time episode four aired during the second week in January, viewership had skyrocketed. The first season got an Emmy nod, and its cast of dysfunctional designers and Klum's "auf Wiedersehen," became instant pop-culture fixtures. But it was Gunn -- with his schoolmarm critiques, tough love, and verbal agility ("It's looking very happy hands at home granny circle," he cautioned one designer. "Resolve it.") -- who became the breakout star. "You can tell he's a teacher," said a fortyish female fan from Queens, as she waited in line to see Gunn on The Daily Show. "He never talks down to people; he encourages them." Adds Runway's Klum: "Tim really cares about the designers. The audience loves him because they sense that.""
"Gunn's other critical role is talent acquisition. He recruited John Bartlett as creative director for the Claiborne menswear line, and when executive vice president Dave McTague suggested hiring Mizrahi, Gunn enthusiastically supported it. Drawing on a connection from his Parsons days, Gunn also gave McComb an assist during negotiations with Narciso Rodriguez. Rodriguez (maker of Carolyn Bessette Kennedy's wedding dress) had been on the brink of bankruptcy, a common enough fate in the fashion world, and had called Vogue's Anna Wintour pleading for help. She suggested Liz Claiborne and its new CEO. Rodriguez, who had supported Gunn during the Parsons insurrection, had concerns about joining a flagging behemoth, but Gunn reassured him and helped clinch the deal. "Tim's an influence builder, and he's very successful in changing people's minds," says McComb, who now has another legitimate name in his stable (not to mention the goodwill of Wintour, the most powerful woman in fashion)."
[Photo: Kambouris/WireImage]
70 comments:
Great article, but I dunno - despite how much they like Tim, the copmany is in very tough shape. Sounds like they are a prime target for a private equity takeover.
What a FABULOUS treat. I'm mad for Tim. Immense thanks for leading us to this.
This kills me:
I watched the show at home, alone, peeking out of the sheets of my bed the way I used to watch The Wizard of Oz as a kid."
!!!
I love this kind of behind the
scenes stuff.
My sister thinks this is Tim Gunn 25 years ago.
Excellent article, guys! I don't have time to read the whole thing now, but I'm definitely reading it later after work.
WOW, it is "pretty much everything"...FANTASTIC! I love Tim!!
phllis said...
"Great article, but I dunno - despite how much they like Tim, the copmany is in very tough shape."
Same feelings here, especially now that the economy has reached recession-land. If the new CEO can put the company in turnaround, Tim will be correct in saying that the experience will be a great case study for Harvard Business School.
My favorite part of the article was Tim recounting how the president of the CFDA outright told him "you better have another gig lined up after this", on the eve of the first senior fashion show after Tim's revamp of Parson's curriculum. No wonder Tim lauds Proenza Schouler so much - they are a validation of his work at Parson's.
And with the fabulous Diane von F. praising Tim - well, that says a lot!
I loved the article, but as Phyllis said, they're still really struggling. I hope it all works out.
They hired Mizrahi? Ugh. BIG mistake. The guy is a hot tranny mess, with no taste or style; a bloated ego in search of anything that will feed it.
VERY interesting article, kittens! Thank you for the link!!
I don't know if you guys are OK with posting this kind of thing, but Jack is selling an autographed photo of the entire Season 4 cast (with autographs from everybody, including Tim!) on eBay. He said that 50% of the proceeds will go to an HIV charity in New York. The action ends on Sunday...link here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200212817647
He posted the info about the auction on his MySpace bulletin space, here:
http://bulletins.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=bulletin.read&messageID=5609387433
Hmm, that was less than effective. Let's try:
eBay link
MySpace announcement
I'd read that a week or so ago. It's a great article, because it's really focused on the "why" of Tim's hiring at Liz Claiborne, a serious business analysis which has been sadly lacking in most of the news stories and blog commenting on his job there.
I can't wait to see what he does with the Liz label. They certainly can use a revamp, I don't know anyone that wants to wear Liz Claiborne..but if anyone can help turn them around, it would be Tim. Great choice and great article. I read it a few weeks ago.
I am thrilled for him.....I hope it all works out.
Bill said...
My sister thinks this is Tim Gunn 25 years ago.
MAX HEADROOM!
*SNORK!*
Bill, even your genetic links are hilarious!
Emma P.
Tim is fabulous, and so gracious! I hope that, for his sake and with his help, Claiborne can pull this one out.
Cute Tim Gunn anecdote:
I was going through some old papers and files at my parents' house last month, and I came across my acceptance letter from Parsons (from 1990)... it was signed "Tim Gunn!" -- and then I vaguely remember my interview there and it WAS with Tim Gunn! So I am now retroactively celebstruck. I didn't end up going to Parsons so we never crossed paths again sadly.
Great article. Except that, as far as I know, and not that it's a big deal, Tim Gunn did *not* get a degree from Yale. I looked in my copy of the latest Yale alumni directory (which includes everyone), and he's not listed. So if he went there, which I'm sure is possible, he must not have graduated. I know he got a BFA from Corcoran.
Also, to Dan 11:34 am, will you and everybody else please stop with the "hot tranny mess" nonsense? I've said this here before, but it's incredibly offensive to trans people (and should be equally offensive to anyone else who actually thinks about it). And I'm really getting tired of people tossing it around (or saying the word "tranny" at all, unless they're trans themselves) like it's some kind of cool thing to say, just because Christian Siriano uses the phrase. I'm sure the gay people here wouldn't be happy if anyone went around calling anything they didn't like a "hot faggot mess" or anything similar, and this is just as bad. My 17-year old gay son is mature enough to understand all this; surely everyone here is equally mature?
Donna L.
Very cool article.
I'm interested in how Narciso Rodriguez will do.
It's such a godawful tough business and we're heading into pretty tough times.
-- desertwind
Donna, don't be such a retard.
really interesting--I always enjoy more Tim Gunn goodness. But as someone in academia myself, I confess to being sad he decided to leave...
Oh, anon 1:37, that's so rude. Living so much of life online has created a phenomenon in which people think it's appropriate to say anything, no matter how hurtful or ignorant. I happen to think Donna has a point (and top of that, the expression in question has gotten pretty stale), but even if you disagree, please think before you post. Sometimes the first thing that pops into our heads doesn't really need to be expressed.
Great article! Tim's life story will make one helluva autobiography. Think of all of the stuff we don't even know about the man. I really hope it all works out for all involved. I don't think that hiring Isaac Mizrahi was such a bad thing. It will be something totally new and different for someone so used to being the center of attention. And no matter what anyone says, he did well with Target...for a while. I hope he and Tim and all involved can make it work. Afterall, way back in the day, Liz Claiborne was the proverbial, shit.
- cathy -
Good for Tim. I had read this article the other day, and was very impressed. Tim deserves all the success he is getting, he is such a great guy.
I hope he can turn Liz Claiborne around, because lord knows they need it. The clothes are tired and very Baptist minister's wife. The only people I know who wear Liz Clairborne are drawing social security. Stale, stodgy and old fashioned. They need a major turn around and an infusion of youthful style.
Thanks, Donna - that needed to be said (again). A while back, on Windy City Queercast, Alexandra Billings read the Riot Act on the use of that word. You can find a link to that here. (As I recall, it's about 10 minutes into the podcast.)
Don't worry, I thought anonymous 1:37's comment was almost funny -- I don't think I've heard anyone actually use "retard" as an insult since I was in grade school. Which is a very long time ago now!
This isn't the first time I've tried to make this point here. A few weeks ago, after the SNL skit that had "Christian" say "tranny" about 10 times in a couple of minutes, I said the following:
"I think it's about time somebody pointed out how not-funny Christian's use of the word "tranny" is, how offensive it is to trans people, and how equally unfunny and offensive it is for SNL to put even more emphasis on it. So I'm glad I'm not the first one to do it. . .
[I]t's about time people realized that use of that word -- especially by people who aren't trans themselves, which Christian doesn't appear to be -- is pretty much the equivalent of some straight guy trying to be funny by going around saying "faggot" all the time, or referring to everything as "gay." Or a white person saying the "n" word, for that matter.
Somehow, my son [who happens to be part of this blog's primary viewing demographic!] has no trouble getting this, and when we watch Project Runway together (one of our favorite pastimes), this stuff annoys him almost as much as it does me. But maybe that comes from having a father who happens to be a woman.
But I don't expect people here to understand, given the shameful way that people on this blog . . . were throwing the word "tranny" around with great hilarity after the wrestling outfit episode. Or the even more shameful way that Blogging Project Runway posted, apparently without hesitation, the "60-second version" of that episode, for which every other word seemed to be tranny. When the jerk who did it wasn't referring to "chicks with dicks," that is.
Thanks for letting me rant.
I watch PR for entertainment, like everyone else. It's my favorite show. Frankly, I don't appreciate
the continual use of belittling, insulting language at every opportunity. I blame Christian less than anyone, because I suspect that like many queer people his age, he may actually have trans people among his friends.
So, it's just not funny. You may think it's no big deal, but keep in mind that dehumanizing people may begin with words, but sometimes ends up elsewhere. The number of young trans and gender-variant people murdered for being who they are every year is enormous -- several, as I'm sure some of you know, just in the last month. Think about it, please."
Donna L.
Donna,
You are wrong. I am gay, and have many tranny friends. They have a sense of humor and they understand the context of this. The people I know are not offended. It's people like you, the unsolicited defenders who take offense. It's best to just mind your own business, because you will never understand. We call each other fag,punk, queer and c*cksucker all the time. But it's all done in fun and we all know it. Find a straight cause to work on, because we don't need u fighting for us.
I had already read this article and, like you, was very impressed. I even bookmarked the site because that's some damn fine writing and business analysis.
Sage, I'm going to try to stay polite. But, please, "hot tranny mess" is obviously a pejorative. It associates transness with tackiness and ugliness, and its used to refer to anything, whether clothing or people, that the person using the phrase dislikes. However "in fun" it is.
Just because you're gay, and you have some clueless "tranny" friends who've probably never given a thought to the cultural and political implications of this kind of language, means nothing. And besides, as to you specifically, you don't get to reclaim the word "tranny" if you aren't one. Just like men don't get to try to reclaim the words "bitch" and "cunt."
And here's a news bulletin: I'm not "fighting for u." When I "fight," and I'm by no means any kind of trans activist, I have enough to do with my jobs as an attorney and a parent, I'm "fighting" for myself and my friends and all the other transpeople I know who don't have the economic resources or any available platform to use to fight for themselves. Another news bulletin: I'm a trans woman myself, so my efforts, such as they are, aren't "unsolicited," and the whole subject is very much my business.
Finally, what in the world makes you think I'm "straight." Once upon a time, I may have been. Not anymore.
Donna
Just because you're gay, and you have some clueless "tranny" friends who've probably never given a thought to the cultural and political implications of this kind of language
Listen here ms thing, you don't know me or my friends, and you have no right to pass judgement on us and call names. You assume too much. You know what happens when you assume. I'd appreciate it if you would get off your high horse. You don't pay my bills or pray for me at night, and you don't tell me what to do.
And another thing, you have a right to your opinion, but do not presume to speak for everyone. Because they all don't feel like you do. Which is how you make it sound. Like all trannies are offended. They aren't. If you are, that's fine. That's your right, but don't force that opinion on everyone, or make broad statements saying all trannies are offended. Because they aren't. If you are fine.
I've said everything I have to say, and I'm done with this. I was trying to make a point about a specific term (hot tranny mess) that I and a lot of other people find offensive, and the last thing I want to do is escalate this into some kind of ridiculous exercise in name-calling. And, although I'm certainly entitled to express my opinion, I obviously can't stop you from saying or doing whatever you please.
So, be well.
The end!
Donna
Just stop. These arguements are becoming such a bore. We're here to talk about Tim's article.
Yeah, and my retard comment was a joke. It is another "word" the sensitive people go bat-crazy over when you use it..."My nephew little Timmy is retarded! How dare you!" Blah, blah, blah. This isn't some human rights forum, it's a website about a silly reality TV show. Let's lighten up...and go get on your soap box in front of the right crowd.
Liz Claiborne needs help. My grandmother wears it, if that is any indication. She is 94.
They really need to work on image, and updating the product line to be more fashion forward. The still have a rep for quality, but I don't think you would see it on the red carpet. Its more of a mid-manangement type of business attire or old lady bridge club attire.
~jen
Wow. Very interesting. Thanks, guys!
You go Donna. Sage, grow up! I have to admit though, when first mentioned, I thought you guys were talking about cars. Talk about clueless. . .
And I love Tim Gunn!
Way to go Sage, I agree. Donna needs to lighten up.
so much for discussing the article about tim. WTF?
thanks for posting TLO, very interesting. love the man.
Tim is awesome. He is almost like Ryan Seacreast. He has so many gigs going, he must work all the time.
I hope he and Isaac can make changes at Liz Clairborne. My only lasting impression of Liz is their overly strong perfume that was prevalent in my high school days, and assorted handbags with their triangle logo.
I am not too sure about the Mizrahi decision. Yes, he has name recognition. But I was never a fan of his clothing. But I don't think he is entirely stable.
Anonymous 4:16 wrote
"Tim is awesome. He is almost like Ryan Seacreast. He has so many gigs going, he must work all the time."
First I laughed, and then I thought, oh dear, what if s/he is serious, saying Tim is "almost like" Ryan Seacrest? In any way, shape or form? Other than having two legs, two arms and a head?
My mind is officially boggled.
another laura, let me explain it to you in simple terms. Ryan has many jobs. He works at E!, hosts a radio show, does American Idol, hosts american top 40, etc etc.
Tim works for Liz Claiborne, hosts PR, hosts his own show etc etc.
That is the comparison. They both work several jobs. If you can't understand that, I can't help you.
Danielle-Great in-depth article! Thank you so much.
Great read, thanks for sharing.
I've had a crush on the Gunn forever...
I fantasize that he is my gay husband/Svengali and we grow old toghether happily ever after, drinking kir royales and eating stuff like rumaki and watching old Bette Davis Movies with our English mastiffs in our Mid Century Modern house.
I thing Mizrahi @ Clairborne is INSPIRED. As I said, he one of the best designers in the biz. He knows how to do miracles with two pennies and a piece of chewed gum. I have heard through the grapevine that he is...hmmmmm, how do I put it? Demanding...
Narciso? I don't know.... His stuff is VERY subtle and all about the details, very architectural and that is HARD to capture on a mass market level because that kind of stuff is EXPENSIVE.
Very professional though.
Nuclear Wintour? I don't know if you babies read my blog ( Fashion Sanity) but I ain't fond of her.
Or afraid of her either. As Heidi says, in fashion one day you are in, the next day you are out...
Hopefully, her reign is on its last days.
Love,
Milla
I've been popping in for a few month's now ~ blogger account sage ~ sorry to see the comments thrown at you Donna; by no account sage. I agree with you.
Great article TLO :-)
On Tim Gunn-- turning a learning instituion around is a way different challenge than transforming a commercial enterprise. I guess you could say that Parsons is commercial and competes with other schools, but I think the market forces are different and less urgent than in the fashion industry. Without any changes, Parsons would have evolved into a vocational school. Liz Claiborne, on the other hand, could simple become defunct.
On the term "tranny": While I'm no expert, I've never heard trans-gendered folks refer to themselves as "tranny." That term seemed to me to be reserved for transvestites --and if there ever was a group of folks who have a solid sense of humor, I think that's one that does.
The term is quite ironic, given that some transvestites look a lot better than real women.
Anonymous, who apparently can't take a joke, wrote:
"another laura, let me explain it to you in simple terms. Ryan has many jobs. He works at E!, hosts a radio show, does American Idol, hosts american top 40, etc etc.
Tim works for Liz Claiborne, hosts PR, hosts his own show etc etc.
That is the comparison. They both work several jobs. If you can't understand that, I can't help you."
Yes, my dear, I understand that Tim Gunn and Ryan Seacrest both have many jobs. Lots of people have many jobs.
I guess I never thought that I would hear the names "Tim Gunn" and "Ryan Seacrest" in the same sentence. Sort of like comparing, maybe, a decent vintage wine with Two Buck Chuck.
OMG, Bill, that's hysterical.... I can see & hear it now:
"cha-cha-cha-cha-chacun son gout, gout, gout, gout!"
I read that interview a few weeks ago.
I agree, the company is in bad shape and has been for a long time. I know they've cut a lot of lines, but frankly, they were all beginning to look the same.
He's brought in some great people --Mizrahi and Rodriguez. I can't help but think that together, they (all 3 plus more) will help LC find a niche again.
Forward!
hmmm to the Yale degree - as a person in English academia, I was hoping that Professor Gunn was another.
I wish he was MY grad school mentor. Or colleague/mentor/friend. I'd love to get together with him for impeccably styled dinner parties and discuss ... anything! everything!
and yes, the line about how he used to watch Wizard of Oz was really super awesome.
and on the OT side of things: can't straight people care about things like transpeople rights?
that anon post felt kinda anti-straight in a nasty way that just doesn't seem okay (especially in this forum where, presumably, most of the straight readers - oh shit, are there any besides me? - are pretty queer-friendly).
be nice!
lighten up! it's just faaaashion!
I am looking forward to the revamp of Liz Clairborne, as long as they keep on making the great khaki pants they do. If you are on the short and have a pooch, like me, they fit really well.
And personally, I think the short and poochy are in the majority these days.
For a while I stopped buying other Liz since she went through some "Little House on the Prarie"print phase, which turned into "Little Whore on the Prarie"
I welcome some attractive, well made clothes that I can wear to work, as a middle manager.
Middle managers need fashion too.
Another Suburban Mom said, "..."Little Whore on the Prarie"...."
What a hoot! And can you hear the fabulous Tim Gunn's comments on that look?
Great article - just reading about Tim raises the tone in the room.
Thanks, TLo.
Rosie's Girl
Great article about Tim Gunn.
Re: Another Laura's comment that likened Ryan Seacrest to "Two Buck Chuck"...
He might be comparable to a Two Buck Chuck to you, but he's been in the entertainment industry, starting in radio, for the past 18 years, and he's only 33 years old. He also earns $14 million a year. Not too shabby, in my opinion, but some people are just harder to please, I guess.
Kris
Re Tim's Yale degree: I'm not sure that the Yale Alumni Directory lists every alum. I believe one must choose to be included, though choosing is only a matter of filling out a form. A 2001 announcement from Parsons (http://www.newschool.edu/pressroom/pressreleases/2001/121801_psd_gunn.html) when they made Tim the Chair of Fashion Design says he has a BA from Yale. I'm inclined to believe it.
Whoops, the whole URL didn't go through. Here is the Parsons announcement that references Tim's Yale degree.
Donna,
If I ever need a lawyer, I'm calling YOU.
Dear Ryan Seacrest fans:
I have admittedly had little exposure to this person since I don't follow American Idol, pop music, etc., but I love looking at clothes and had the distinct displeasure of watching him on the Oscar red carpet telecast in what I thought was an embarrassing couple of hours (So, are you going to breastfeed? Hey, can you see how this guy is down on the ground so his head is in my crotch? Can you get a shot of my crotch?) so notwithstanding that he makes a lot of money, yes, he's Two Buck Chuck to me.
I hardly think Ryan Seacrest cares at all what I have to say about him.
And I don't think I'm that hard to please, I mean, I watch Project Runway and my guilty pleasure of the week is America's Next Top Model, after all, which is pretty dreadful stuff.
Love and kisses to all,
another laura
I stand corrected on the Yale degree; I had forgotten that you have to fill out a form to be included in the Alumni Directory. He's about my age; I'll have to check to see if his picture is in any of my old yearbooks!
Donna L.
Oh, and thanks for the compliment, Kanani -- LOL!
Donna
Tim Gunn is everything good & clean in this world. Hope he makes a wild success.
Hey, Sage and Donna: you are both completely ignoring the fact that the trans community is not actually one homogeneous unit, sharing all opinions. Perhaps they don't all find "hot tranny mess" offensive, and they don't all find it adorable.
Both of you need to get off your high horses about this-- neither of you is actually even transsexual/transgender, according to your posts. Have an opinion, fine, but stop trying to speak for all of someone else's.
For the record Sage, my trans friends would never use the term "hot tranny mess" to describe something unattractive, and not because they lack a sense of humor.
Oh, it just makes me love Tim all the more.
I too always thought that it was tranny as in a transvestite aka cross-dresser.
The Liz lines ARE starting to seem alike... and most definitely need a shot in the arm (or in other body parts). It is too bad - Liz was a line I could look at in my college/student teaching years where I could find something of quality where I could look professional but not too old (I was 22 at the time, and didn't want to look frumpy). I really do look mainly at those lines for the most basic of basics now - solid color t-shirts, etc.
Oh, I will admit though that I can usually find a purse or two every year - but then, thats at the outlet and they are marked down to $5 to $15!
Wow! Who knew? I'm impressed.
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