Tuesday, March 25, 2008 by
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Get your tomatoes and warm up your pitching arms, girls!
Heavy and depressing and uninteresting bordering on ugly. It completely obliterates whatever figure that model has. Another point - and for us, this is the biggest complaint we have about Chris' collection - it just doesn't look modern at all.
Similar to the first silk screened dress in that it's a very simple design where the print is doing all the work of garnering interest.
People keep asking "How can you say this collection is dark when Christian's was almost all black?" Take an objective look at this. It's not that it's black; it's that it's heavy and dour and depressing-looking. Christian's collection, whatever flaws people may think it had, was exuberant and over the top and even joyful. Looks like this are the exact opposite of that.
We give him a lot of credit for the materials he used. The safety pin skirt and the hair trim really made a statement. Unfortunately, looks like this, no matter how much people might not want to hear it, are the very definition of costumey. It's too severe and the silhouette is old. Very old.
This is interesting and we kind of like it. The bodice is very pretty. We hate the skirt, though. Again, not because we're grossed out by the hair but because it's just flat ugly. She looks like a muppet from the waist down.
It's hard to tell from the pictures, but poor Marcia could barely walk in this. She had to lean so far back to keep the wrap in place that we feared she was just going to topple backwards on the runway. And again, this look was very heavy and added about 30 pounds to her figure.
In the end, we have to go with the term the judges may have over-applied to him: costumey. In this instance, they were exactly right. In many cases, these clothes simply didn't make the wearers look better; they made them look heavier and older. All the interest was generated in the materials he used. When your strong points are safety pins and human hair, then yes, you're making costumes.
With its Catholic iconography and references to blood and body parts, this was a surprisingly goth collection, which means that it's extremely limited in terms of its appeal and in the end, pretty dated. We reiterate: there simply wasn't anything new or fresh-looking here. It was a lot of old-looking styles and silhouettes made more interesting by his choice of materials.
This isn't to say that we don't think Chris is talented. We do. He's enormously talented. He has a gift for making astonishingly dramatic looks utilizing a wide range of techniques and materials. It's just that this collection really hammered home the point that he should remain a costume designer and not a fashion designer. He has the potential to be a world class costumer but sadly, in our opinion, doesn't have the potential to be a world class designer.
[Photos: WireImage/Getty Images/Elle.com - Slideshow: Projectrungay.blogspot.com]
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79 comments:
The messed up hair (on their heads, not their clothes), the black mouths, the gloves - Morticia lives! Please. Goth's 15 minutes were up in the 90s. Love Sissybear. Hate this collection. He should have stuffed himself into his Wonder Woman costume and stole the show!
There are three looks in his collection I absolutely adore and would wear (10 years and 50 pounds ago): The 2 silkscreens and the short red lace one from Part I. Other than that, put away the asbestos suits, boys - I agree with you. They all felt very heavy to me.
I do think he deserves a great deal of credit on those silkscreens, though - he let the print work very well with simple shapes. The potential for overworking those looks was high, and instead he used the prints brilliantly with simple, flowing dresses. Of my 5 favorite looks, these 2 collectively are number 2 on the list.
SPLATT!!!!
Sorry guys, I still love it. I love the lines of it and I love the styling. I would never wear any of it as it is now but I can see how it can be translated.
I see couture more than costume or maybe that couture really IS costume to a degree.
I love costumes! Loved the collection. Can't wait until Chris costumes a movie or a Broadway show...or Ann Rice's funeral.
I just wanted to make a quick comment on the hair-skirt-dress. I agree it's not a very flattering item (werewolf-esque was a great visual), BUT I did love how it shimmered when she walked the runway.
I covet every pair of shoes that Chris put on his models and I want them all NOW!
Great point, ms_flyover -- the three outfits I want are the two silkscreens and the short red lace. But I still really like the whole collection, I'm sorry! It has real intellectual integrity, heft if you will, and I have not seen enough of that on fashion runways. I find myself wondering if he ever got the chance to explain these ideas to the judges because, given the array of really robust, cohesive interpretations that people are applying to his collection, it really seems as if he created something "deep." For me, this collection wasn't so much fashion as it was art, and I think that's wonderful!
I equate the sad term 'looking old' with what it actually means: age-appropriate for anyone over 30.
You can put this *winter* collection on anyone over the age of 20 on the East Coast and Mid-West and it'll look pretty damned good (and warm - thank God).
Put anyone in Jillian's outfits (aside from the coats) over the age of 30, and they look like they're trying too hard to grab on to 'youth' with both hands.
Christian's - m'eh.
Rami's - m'eh.
I liked the silhouettes a lot. They're 'classic' (not 'old) and they suit more body types, in the end.
I just wouldn't wear most of the outfits during the summer months... .
Chris has so many great ideas, but I have to agree with you two about his collection. The only thing that sold this collection at all was having 5'11'' size 0 models to put it on. Imagine a 5'6'' size 10 or 12 woman wearing these. Ugh. It would just say pathetic teenager trying to mask her insecurities by adopting an edgy goth look. Of course all the collections were made for models, but with the other four (yes, even Sweet P's) I can see them being adapted for different body sizes and proportions.
can someone please explain the difference between costume (chris) & fashion(christian). i get really confused!
I really liked the short lace/hair dress, it is very pretty and fun. I don't agree with you regarding the hair, it looked awesome and moved beautifully on the runway (at least as seen on TV, sorry I wasn't there). I have the feeling that if he had used "feathers" instead of hair, people would have accepted it more... Poor Chris: he should have said it was monkey hair and people would have said: wow! how cool! So I definitely applaud him for being honest and gutsy....
I'm sad you guys have dismissed his collection so badly, some outfits you didn't even comment on specifics, for example some of the jackets sleeves had awesome shapes.
and why to dismiss goth (disclaimer: I'm not a goth fan) as "old"? like '80s is not old? can he give his spin on goth and make it more updated? I think he did that. I really disagree with the comment that his collection was depressing... not more than other monocromatic minimalistic stuff you see on fashion shows very often.
Finally, why dismiss the silkscreen dresses as solely an effect of the fabric? with that criteria most of Uli's dresses would have no value....
While I do agree with your overall asessment of Chris' collection, TLO, I still find that I liked it very much and didn't get a costumey vibe. I get more of a big screen cinematic/stage vibe. How amazing would Keira Knightly, Cate Blanchett Helen Mirren or even Meryl Streep look in these designs?
A more contemporary pop figure comes to mind (in the Goth vein - bad pun intended) and that is Amy Lee of Evanescence. I can totally envision her rocking any one of these looks.I do think that there's an audience for Chris' esoteric tastes out there. It just may not be a commercial or retail audience.
While I understand your opinion, I must respectfully disagree. I loved most of these looks and I don't think they are stale or outdated. I think they are on trend and fabulous. Which is why there are so many different designers, because everyone has their own idea of what is fabulous and not all will agree.
In my opinion, these looks were wonderful and refreshing. Not the same old, same old you get with a lot of these designers. So many people have a follow the leader type approach to design and it ends up with a lot of the same stuff. Chris was refreshing and interesting and I loved it. Most of it.
"edina monsoon said...
While I do agree with your overall asessment of Chris' collection, TLO, I still find that I liked it very much and didn't get a costumey vibe. I get more of a big screen cinematic/stage vibe."
Isn't that the definition of costume?
These are fun! They have attitude! They're goth gone chic.
anon 10:41 said,Isn't that the definition of costume?
Here is the definition of costume:
Pronunciation: \ˈkäs-ˌtüm, -ˌtyüm also -təm or -ˌchüm\
Function: noun
Etymology: French, from Italian, custom, dress, from Latin consuetudin-, consuetudo custom — more at custom
Date: 1799
1: the prevailing fashion in coiffure, jewelry, and apparel of a period, country, or class
2: an outfit worn to create the appearance characteristic of a particular period, person, place, or thing (Halloween costumes)
3: a person's ensemble of outer garments; especially : a woman's ensemble of dress with coat or jacket
— cos·tum·ey adjective
"Anonymous said...
anon 10:41 said,Isn't that the definition of costume?
Here is the definition of costume:"
Thank you, Miss Pedantic. My point was, if something would look great on the stage or screen, then it's by definition, a costume.
I must say I love you guys for being so objective.
But don't look upon Chris as "sadly he'll never be a fashion designer." What's he to be sad for? What are [i]we[/i] to be sad for? He's a great [b]designer[/b]. PERIOD Does it matter if it's costume or 'fashion'?
I hope I don't sound mean (I don't mean to), but I'm surprised you guys of all people are hanging labels. Or am I reading too much into that?
I still love this as a collection and would probably wear some of it, if available (& within price range). But that's my personal style.
With all due respect, TLo, we'll have to agree to disagree. Chris's collection was cohesive and expressed a strong point of view within the 12 looks. Letting a print do the work? Why not? The silkscreens were striking and wouldn't have worked any other way. My verdict is couture, not costume. But I'll grant you, it's a fine line.
Yeah, gotta agree with the person that said these looks were cinematic. It's VAMP, not goth.
I was glad to see someone go further back than the 80s for silhouette.
I have to agree with hutchlover here.... why saying that "he'll NEVER be a world class designer"? why that categorical statement?
well, he can be a city class designer in my book, and if he would make clothes in my size and price range I would happily get some of his clothes...
All the winners and finalists of PR have their own niche they appeal to and that is perfectly fine. why is it ok for Jeffrey to do hollywood rock punk clothes and not for Chris to do goth or religious-inspired clothes?
I don't know, I love you TLO, but it seems you're being too harsh on Chris this time....
"I equate the sad term 'looking old' with what it actually means: age-appropriate for anyone over 30."
Ooooh...I completely disagree with that. Just like 'dark' doesn't neccessarily mean color, 'old' does not mean over 30.
Just like dressing youthful over 30 doesn't have to mean looking ridiculous.
--GothamTomato
Actually that ensemble with the hair skirt was my favorite. I thought it was the most youthful item. It was dramatic and sexy and I think there are women who would exude fabulousness in it-granted not every woman.
I completely get this is not to everyone's taste or liking but I do think thematically there was a lot of depth and ideas put in them and it shows.
Frank
On the difference between fashion and costume: I'm having trouble understanding it, too, but I found this from Tim's Take on the first part of the finale helpful:
"And there was one moment -- I remember if vividly -- when I said to myself, “Chris is out.” He and Rami were each asked, “Who’s your customer?” Rami answered clearly, articulately, and believably. Chris responded, “I don’t know.” That was it for me. Over. His inability to know who his customer is underscored the fact that he’s really a costume designer, not a fashion designer."
Well, I can see where you're coming from TLo, but I disagree with you, too.
I really enjoyed Chris' collection, and I think that he has a lot of potential as a designer.
There were more pieces in this collection that I could see myself owning and wearing than there were in PPS' or Rami's collections.
Chris just let me down as a designer but not as a costume designer. (big) hats off to you Chris.
At least Chris didn't send down twelve of the same dark, goth-lite looks down the runway. I also wish to argue the age appropriateness of this collection: yes, a more mature woman could wear any of these looks. What makes it work though, is that this woman would not look like a fool trying to follow trends or look like a 22 y/o. Not the case if the 40 y/o puts on a PPS original. Equally so, a 22 y/o can wear a Chris dress (dressed down some) and still look youthful.
Re: the difference between "couture" and "costume".
There's a saying in the linguistics field: A language is a dialect with an army.
Thus, I submit, for your approval: "couture" is "costume" with a following.
Yay, tehkou!
I appreciated the ideas behind the collection, but in the end he just made well-crafted, depressing clothes.
Sorry, I hate goth. I think it's ugly, it will always be ugly. I don't look down on people who like to dress goth because I know they do it on purpose. And that's fine, but don't for a second think it makes you look good. Maybe once in a rare while, someone can pull off a "glamorous" goth look.
There's definitely some cool details, but I really just hated this collection.
With the debate going on, I googled costume + couture and this is what came up. Interesting and it seems the two are interchangable. Presented just FYI:
What is Haute Couture?
Costume and Fashion history would not be the same without Haute couture.
Haute Couture is a French phrase for high fashion. Couture means dressmaking, sewing, or needlework and haute means elegant or high, so the two combined imply excellent artistry with the fashioning of garments. The purchase of a haute couture model garment is at the top level of hand customised fashion design and clothing construction made by a couture design house. A model haute couture garment is made specifically for the wearer's measurements and body stance. The made to measure exclusive clothes are virtually made by hand, carefully interlined, stay taped and fitted to perfection for each client.
Bill said...
I love costumes! Loved the collection. Can't wait until Chris costumes a movie or a Broadway show...or Ann Rice's funeral.
LOL!
Bill, for the life of me, I can't understand why you didn't become a comedy writer (your quips beat the shit out of Bruce Vilanch's!).
This is tough. On the 1 hand I agree w/ TLo, it is dark & costumey. But isn't a couture collection about extreme ideas, presented in the most dramatic context? Within that criteria I found the details not only "fresh", but provocative (the hair, the safety pins, the crosses). These elements made me stop & think about the eras the collections evoked-- from the (ground breaking, feminist) flapper 20's to my own girlhood goth of the early 90's. I agree w/ Cavalli, Chris March should be a fashion designer. A couture fashion designer.
Emma P.
It's not like I hate it, there are couple pieces that I like, and although dark and heavy, I get the mood he's going for and I like that. But Chris' strength is his costumes, those larger than life portrait and personality in the clothes. I wish he's go all out and do all the stereotypes with some twists.
There was so much handwork in these pieces that I would put it into couture.
I just loved that skirt made from safety pins.
Thus, I submit, for your approval: "couture" is "costume" with a following.
Works for me.
Calling it "costumey" is a cop-out. This is a cohesive, inventive collection with a very definite point of view. Not to my taste, but still an impressive body of work.
And that last gown is amazing. So what if the model had difficulty walking in it? There are plenty of couture gowns that aren't meant to move. The sole purpose of the garment is to serve as a piece of textile art. Movement is only an issue when you're talking about RTW.
Roberto Cavalli had it right...Chris has the sensibility and the talent for couture.
On costume and fashion: It is completely abitrary, just like the difference between fashion and clothes.
To me, if something cannot be worn in a real life situation it is a costume. Getting is a cab, or driving a car is a pretty good test. Therefore (in my opinion) Chris's collection is fashion, although not particularly fashion forward. I actually feel like his showstopper could have pushed the limit and been a little *more* theatrical, because the showstopper often is just for publicity.
...he should remain a costume designer and not a fashion designer ...
And then he can grow up to be Chris Fucking March!
I loved the safety pin skirt. Can't imagine wearing it, but as a piece of performance art it's fabulous.
I wish the editors had shown more of the creative process between Chris and Christian when they came up with that beauteous flouncy flirty gown. Whose concept was it, or did they just divvy it up so that Chris was in charge of the neckline, and Christian did everything else. And then they were lucky that bit 1 matched so nicely with bit 2.
Tehkou: "'Couture' is 'costume' with a following"
Aha! Perfect!
Bittybis said...
On the difference between fashion and costume: I'm having trouble understanding it, too, but I found this from Tim's Take on the first part of the finale helpful:
"And there was one moment -- I remember if vividly -- when I said to myself, “Chris is out.” He and Rami were each asked, “Who’s your customer?” Rami answered clearly, articulately, and believably. Chris responded, “I don’t know.” That was it for me. Over. His inability to know who his customer is underscored the fact that he’s really a costume designer, not a fashion designer."
I read that too Bittybis, but it kind of doesn't make sense to me as the difference between a costume designer and a fashion designer. It is even MORE important to a costume designer who his customer is. I do think that answer is one of the reasons Chris did not move forward and I would even venture to say that he didn't really want too by verture of that answer.
Perhaps Chris's reason for being on the show had more to do with generating intrest in the buisness that he already has, which is not a bad reason at all. If so, it worked out rather well for him.
Tehkou: "'Couture' is 'costume' with a following"
Genious!!! I follow..... :-)
I loved most of the collection and here are some of my favorites on round 2.
#1-I loved the back on this one.
#3-this was very Madonna looking-loved it.
#4-loved this one also, I don't get what kind of costume you think this is?
The Marcia dress was fabulous also, who cares if she can't walk. It's better to look good than to feel good.
Jen
Re: motivation--
Chris said in an interview that Tim Gunn insisted that he come audition for PR after he saw Chris' work in the Wishbone salad fashion show (amazing outfits made of vegetables, BTW!)
Don't know what that implies about Chris' final motivation, but he may have had some distance from the process throughout if they solicited him, which could allow him to retain his sense of humor.
Wow, that is very interesting about Tim asking Chris to audition. It seems that Chris was maybe not in it to win it, but to get the free publicity. If so, it worked.
Geez that's a harsh review. If I were Chris and read that review, I'd slit my throat with my sewing scissors.
Never! certainly, when you dislike a collection you should say so, but to say someone can 'never' be a designer, man that's a long time.
In fact, I fail to see how anyone could be a good costume designer if all one could ever produce is garments that make women look old, dated and fat. Trust me, those who buy costumes very seldom would choose garments that met that description. That's what your review implies.
For me, Chris's collection is coherent, has a nice color story, and is definitely a winter collection. And it is identifiably 'Chris'-if I saw it, I'd know who did it. All good things.
I hope next time Chris puts together a show that he doesn't do a goth show. I hope he'll do a summer show that's lighter and happier.
Even if I didn't like most of the looks in this collection (and I do), I would never say the maker of it could never be a designer.
Anonymous said...
Geez that's a harsh review
Gosh, I never looked at it that way, but you are right.
For me, the more successful looks are the ones that have less going on. The blue silkscreen dress works well because the silhouette is simple; the image on a more complicated design would have been too much. I wish he'd applied that kind of balance and restraint to some of the other looks, too, because --
heavy velvet jacket
+ heavy velvet skirt
-----------------
Too much.
But --
heavy velvet jacket
+ lighter skirt or pant
---------------------------
Juuuust right!
That said, even if some of it doesn't work, even if I don't love the Goth references and wish he'd done more editing, overall I thought the collection was impressive and really surprising.
"Anonymous said...
Geez that's a harsh review. If I were Chris and read that review, I'd slit my throat with my sewing scissors." @ 2:14 pm
"Anonymous said...
Anonymous said...
Geez that's a harsh review
Gosh, I never looked at it that way, but you are right." @ 2:20 pm
And do you think we're idiots here, anonymous???
"Never! certainly, when you dislike a collection you should say so, but to say someone can 'never' be a designer, man that's a long time."
They never said never or anything thing of that sort; that's how you decide to interpret the text/review; they said they think he "doesn't have the potential to be a world class designer." that's very different and I happen to agree with them.
It is kind of a harsh review. However, TLo didn't say Chris could never be a fashion designer. They said, "It's just that this collection really hammered home the point that he should remain a costume designer and not a fashion designer. He has the potential to be a world class costumer but sadly, in our opinion, doesn't have the potential to be a world class designer."
If anyone thinks goth is over, just check out Make me a Supermodel (which Christian was on last week). They had a photoshoot and a runway show of goth clothes. It's still a huge movement with magazines devoted to its fashion and lifestyle. (I'm not goth, btw.) If you don't like Chris' clothes that's one thing, but saying he's not keeping 'in-trend" or whatever, it's not true.
I think the styling makes the clothes darker than they really are. I love the short blue outfit and dresses in part 1 and all of the clothes here. Not the long blue robey thing. Many designers have dresses where the model(s) can barely walk (see marc jacobs even) so that's not really a criticism. The scarf on the dress is cool, but overwhelms the model as Christian's outfits does as well.
Rami's clothes are far from modern and neither really were Jeffrey's.
I love the details that Chris lovingly put on all of his clothing and didn't make them austere.
Wow, that is very interesting about Tim asking Chris to audition. It seems that Chris was maybe not in it to win it, but to get the free publicity. If so, it worked.
You could say the same thing about Rami, too. He is a successful designer but doesn't have a huge following so it works for him, too.
Chris wants to branch out from costumes and from we've seen throughout the season, not just here, he has the ability to do it.
fashionwhatever,what does this mean? What are you trying to say?
And do you think we're idiots here, anonymous???
Disagree, disagree, disagree.
I see drama and lushness and very flattering silouettes. Love the silkscreens. Love the safety pins and hair.
And stop with the "costume" complaint already. It's meaningless!
I don't think it's better than Christian's, but I do *still* think it is better than Rami's and he should have been in the final three.
GothamTomato said...
"I equate the sad term 'looking old' with what it actually means: age-appropriate for anyone over 30."
Ooooh...I completely disagree with that. Just like 'dark' doesn't neccessarily mean color, 'old' does not mean over 30.
Just like dressing youthful over 30 doesn't have to mean looking ridiculous.
Sorry... should have been more clear. When the term 'old' is used in terms of a silhouette, I invariably find that it actually means "the silhouette isn't trendy" and trendy does not include much that someone over the age of 30 can comfortably wear without looking kinda age-inappropriate. Think 'low-rise pants', 'see-through shirts'. The one thing I loved about Laura Bennett is that she never made clothes with a 'modern' or 'new' silhouette' (terms I've associated with Christian). But damned near anyone could wear her stuff.
Chris' stuff was criticized as not have 'modern' silhouettes and Jillian's was praised for having some. But you can't put a lot of Gillian's non-coats/sweaters on most women over 30 and Christian's stuff, 'modern' or 'fresh' silhouettes they may be, would look horrible on anyone beyond a size six or over 35 (if the woman hadn't been in the sun too long).
One of the plusses of Rami's stuff, at least, is that women of a certain age could look good in it.
I just think Chris should be given kudos for actually making a collection where most of it looks lke it has classic silhouettes that a wide range of women could wear and the pieces, separately, look classic.
"Anonymous said...
fashionwhatever,what does this mean? What are you trying to say?
And do you think we're idiots here, anonymous???"
It's fashionFANATIC; not whatever. I'll show you what I mean:
"Anonymous says @ 2:14 pm:
Geez that's a harsh review. If I were Chris and read that review, I'd slit my throat with my sewing scissors."
"Anonymous says @ 2:15 pm:
Gosh, I never looked at it that way, but you are right."
"Anonymous says @ 2:16 pm:
Oh my God, you're so right."
"Anonymous says @ 2:17 pm:
I also agree with you guys."
""Anonymous says @ 2:18 pm:
I couldn't have said it better, anon 2:14 pm."
I still think PPS' clothes are ugly and annoying and would wear that blue silkscreened dress in a second. That's my opinion ad I'm sticking to it.
For the sake of perspective, I advise each Rungay reader to go to Youtube and check out the Project Catwalk (season 3, episode 10). We are so ridiculous lucky to have the finalists each season that we have... give me human hair every day of the week over the PC collections. I would ask TLO to do a review their collections for laughs, but sometimes it's just too easy to make fun of something... on the other hand, I would still read it :)
As for Sissybear's collection, I think that the overwhelming problem with his collection (and with Rami's collection) was not with his goth inspiration because trends get reinvented all the time, but that the collections just looked so damn heavy and the color choices were so depressing. SB's great pieces were the ones that looked effortless and light and showed his distinct sense of humor.
I just wonder what the comments would have been if all the collections had all been anonymous. I just immediately thought this was for a dark Halloween red carpet even
The black and red silkscreen dress was my favorite look of all the collections. Gorgeous. The clean lines of the design set off the pattern and that's what made it work. Same with the face dress. You don't want the print to compete with the lines of the dress. I thought Chris handled it just right. Those two silk screened dresses plus the lace and hair dress were fabulous. If he'd done more like that, he'd have been the winner for me.
I also disagree about your ultimate assessment of Chris's talents. He could be a great fashion designer. His instincts on the show with the first challenge, the prom challenge, the Hershey's challenge and the couture challenge show he can design great clothes with clean lines and elegance. Same with the silk screened pieces in his collection. If he focused on that, he could be the next Diane von Furstenberg. That may not be his ambition, but he certainly has the talent to design beautiful clothes that are nothing like costumes. I'd much rather wear his clothes than Christian's.
It's better to look good than to feel good.
RuPaul says the same thing. Maybe Chris should focus on designing for 6'7" drag queens who are thin and into pain.
Give me velvet and out of the box thinking any day over the tired 80's rehash that is happening today. Dear god - give me that pitch fork!
"Anonymous said...
I just wonder what the comments would have been if all the collections had all been anonymous."
OR if they weren't directed to Chris. People say that Rami can do no wrong? Nonsense. CHRIS can do no wrong.
Sewing Siren, I agree that it's important for a costume designer to know who his customer is. The difference is the customer for a costume designer is a specific individual with a specific need. The "customer" for a fashion designer is a generalized person who describes a whole group of individuals who can be targeted by sales and advertising. I do think it's telling that Chris couldn't say who his "customer" was in that sense.
tehkou: ""couture" is "costume" with a following." Great analogy!
TLo said: "He has the potential to be a world class costumer but sadly, in our opinion, doesn't have the potential to be a world class designer."
I hope Chris proves himself otherwise! He's got my interest over most of the other past/present PR designers and is one that I'd check on just to see what he's currently creating.
I do think it's telling that Chris couldn't say who his "customer" was in that sense.
I think it's a stupid question, because the honest answer to that question, regardless of the designer, is "Whoever is willing to fork out the bucks to pay for my work, that's who."
"PhantomMinuet said...
I think it's a stupid question, because the honest answer to that question, regardless of the designer, is "Whoever is willing to fork out the bucks to pay for my work, that's who."
Not for a good designer it's not. A good designer knows exactly who they're designing for.
Good catch Fashionfanatic! I completely missed the schitzoid posts.
I think Chris should have won for his ingenuity. Goth or not, those lines are gorgeous. The fabric choices were spot on and the accessories were forward yet edited. Goth may be a throwback but the lines of Chris's collection were not, unlike PPS.
I'm not a goth fanatic, in fact I never bothered with it.
That said, I don't EVER want to return to skinny jeans and oversized t-shirts accessorized by hipbelts, 3 pairs of different colored socks and reebok hightops, or the ever popular stilleto ankle boots....ever. Begone also the puffy sleeves, there is no need to distract a fencing opponent with 5 yards of fabric in the 21st century. DIE 80's DIE.
As a sidenote to all of this; can someone explain to me why designers go for the teen/20's look? The women that can afford their clothes are 30+ unless you have a trust fund. So why design for teenagers that can't afford music for their Ipods let alone a shirt costing $300. I've always wondered.
I saw the fashion exhibit at the V&A museum in London last November. It was gorgeous 50's/60's Balenciaga, Dior among others.
At the very end of the show as a contrast were some recent Dior/Galliano couture pieces.
Absurd, unwearable but truly art. Up close they were stunning; they would be incredible even if they were re-made out of white muslin. Do the same with Chris's outfits and you're left with boring simple dresses.
There is Chris the person (adorable and lovable) and these clothes which are dull, drab and depressing. He's said since his heart wasn't in this collection and I believe it.
Not for a good designer it's not. A good designer knows exactly who they're designing for.
But the question isn't who you're designing for. The question is who is your customer. It isn't necessarily the same thing. Rami was an established "fashion" designer with an established client base. He didn't even have to think about his answer, because Rami didn't change during the competition. His customers before the competition will be his customers after the competition. Chris was stretching his limits beyond being a costume designer to being a fashion designer. He probably doesn't yet know who his customers will be.
And I still say that a designer's customer is whoever is willing to pay, and all the rest is just marketing.
I actually love most of Chris' outfits. The hair did gross me out, though, even before I found out what it was.
Chris was stretching his limits beyond being a costume designer to being a fashion designer. He probably doesn't yet know who his customers will be.
This is a good argument for Chris being a promising designer, but at the same time, I actually think it's also good argument for why it was his time to be auf'ed.
The competition is (nominally, at least) about finding the "next great fashion designer." It's okay to still be finding yourself in the early stages of the competition, but once you go to Bryant Park, that's it -- that's the last show, and you'd better know, or at least pretend to know.
If Chris does find his "fashion voice" I'm sure he'll do great. He'll also do great if he decides to just follow his whims and decide to design for whoever will buy from him. But, "the next great fashion designer" that does not make.
Again, no slight against Chris. I love the guy, and I love his clothes. But in the end he wasn't cut out to win this competition, and I think he knew that, too.
No rotten tomatoes for you, boys; only for this collection. I'm totally with you on this.
I'm not goth and I loved Chris's collection. I was still rooting for Christian, but I thought Chris's collection was glamorous and sexy and 20s-inspired; as someone in the other post said, it's cigarette holders and absinthe. Loved it!
I have to respectfully disagree. I love his collection. I think it's fierce.
this is a bit off the subject, but i just now realized that look #8 (the long red and black gown) is worn by danielle from "america's next top model." i loved her on ANTM (i can't believe i just used that acronym), but is it me or does she look just a teense busted in these photos? i'll chalk it up to unflattering styling and leave it at that.
I thought Chris looked endearing in his Bryant Park outfit. Heart-tuggingly cute! :-)
Much like Laura Bennett, Chris seems to have decided to stay close to his own tastes and affinities in preparing his Bryant Park collection.
I don't think his collection is "the future of fashion," nor is it particularly translatable to RTW. (Christian's clothes may be extreme, but with slightly less oversized tops you can see how they translate to a RTW idea.)
But I do think Chris is extremely talented and will do quite well in whatever niche he chooses to pursue. I love that he chose to take risks and shock the judges. I think he knew they had already written him off, so kudos to him for making it hard for them to dismiss him.
Using human hair is such a provocative, original, wacky idea. I think he erred in making it the overriding idea of his collection, but I think he was on to something with the hair and safety pins. If he had used a wider variety of non-traditional materials as accents, and kept the hair to just one or two pieces... well, Nina still wouldn't have cared for it, but it would have been closer to performance art than anything we've seen yet on PR. (Come to think of it, it already is.)
Mmm. I'm 27 and disagree that the silhouette on the fitted black jacket/safety pin skirt outfit is old...I'd wear that in a hot minute (either piece, separately or together. And I'm talking silhouettes as well as the pieces themselves.). I was not a huge fan of the velvets, though.
I agree that the styling overall was quite good.
You may think Chris does not have the talent to be a fashion designer, but Cavalli does. Enough said.
did you notice that the belt on the first garment is the same one that laura used on one of her bryant park dresses (only in a different color)?
laura's dress:
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger2/308/3845/1600/5.7.gif
chris's dress:
http://bp3.blogger.com/_FW86_jO7k_A/R-jub-W-3MI/AAAAAAAAVEE/Ml-Wc4pJrWg/s1600-h/Christian_Collection_7a.jpg
sorry, I didn't type the full url for laura's dress in my above comment. here it is:
http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger2/308/3845/1600/5.7.gif
Human hair or monkey fur from the 1920s -- ugly, ugly stuff. Too bad Chris seemed to have decided to play it for laughs and forgot the that clothes should be beautiful and make you want to wear them, not think dead monkeys.
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