Judging the Judges: Zac Posen Fall 2008 Collection

Friday, March 28, 2008 by
Darlings, enough with these previous contestants (for now). Let's get ripping on the judges! Zac Posen's Fall 2008 collection was described thusly by Style.com:

"
The models wore pompoms on either side of their tight chignons, and many of the dresses were sheer enough to reveal spangled underwear and black garter belts. After-dark options edged out daywear by a wide margin, which was too bad, because the most elegant piece here was, hands down, a herringbone-tweed sheath, and it would have been great if the focus had been more of the same. That isn't to say eveningwear is a bad thing, but crinolines—which he showed under a robe à la française and a mini-parachute dress—are quite another story.

Posen cut all of the sugar and spice with great tailoring, some of it in a soft-quilted cloque that his program notes dubbed "bubble wrap." On the harder side, a Prince of Wales schoolboy suit looked signature—it was curvy and fit like a glove—but it didn't have quite the sex appeal of a plunging Le Smoking jumpsuit."

"[S]o much of this collection looked designed not for grown-up women (ones with jobs) but for living dolls."

It's that last sentence that nails it. Look, we're all for exuberance and whimsy in fashion, which too often takes itself far too seriously. But looking at this collection, one word repeats itself to us: "silly." We have no idea what got into him, but he decided to put out a collection that looks like a joke. Oh sure, some women somewhere will plunk down the cash to wear these things, but for the most part, it comes across almost ... disrespectful. Like he's daring women to go out in these ridiculous outfits.

Granted, it's not all bad. We like the colors (when they appear), and one or two pieces are nice on their own, but all that bright, shiny tackiness or overly frilly foundation garments rendered in silhouettes that make the wearers look more like items than women just left us flat.

Et vous?





















[Photos: WireImage/Getty Images]

77 comments:

Anonymous said...

Did he use a set from "Les Miserables" for his show? It looks like the barricade scene.

Anonymous said...

Clearly I am blind because I don't see a herringbone sheath in here anywhere.

And the headpieces? I couldn't help it, my brain started "M-I-C.... K-E-Y.... M-O-U-S-EEEEEEEE"

In the first place, the very word crinoline makes me itch like when I was 7 and was wearing my first communion dress. Anybody else?

I don't know what point he's trying to make with the sheer/garter belts look, but I'm not having it.

However, I fairly lerved the gowns. The grey one with the red "jillianesque" armor top is really fun to look at! Since I'm not in the market for show-stopping gowns I don't care so much about whether I could wear this anywhere.

Sewing Siren said...

It all looks a little vintage Barbie, but I'm a double pom-pom in the hair kind a girl, so I love most of it.
I do not love the see-through, garter belt showing looks.

Anonymous said...

Those sheer sheaths over garters were vulgar and almost grotesque. But...I loved almost everything else. Would I wear any of it? No. But I did love the whimsy and charm of it. And I thought some of the black gowns were goth done right. Take note, Chris!

Hated the styling, though.

Anonymous said...

Forget the collection. I'd pay to see Zac walk the runway in his underwear, but that's just me.
*sigh*

chgo_john

Mom said...

I think it's very on trend. Clearly the theme is a "Salute to the Women of Eliot Spitzer."

Brooklyn Bomber said...

Complicated.

Anonymous said...

I don't know what point he's trying to make with the sheer/garter belts look, but I'm not having it.
It's a revival of Caberet!

Very costumey!

Anonymous said...

Another Laura, I had almost the same response to the head gear:

Third and fourth looks (yellow skirts, black pom poms: "Minnie Mouse Goes Goth"

I don't know what point he's trying to make with the sheer/garter belts look and the white sheer over black bras either, but I flashed back to a gritty stage performance of Cabaret - and not in a good way.

Tenth look - short grey pleated skirt: Thanks, but I already know where my private parts are, and don't especially need to call attention to them.

Thirteenth and fourteenth looks: reminiscent of those crochet dolls so unfortunately used to cover toilet tissue rolls in the 50's.

The whole collection has that little girls go through the rummage sale clothes and play tea party look. I am indeed excited about the money I will be saving by not buying any of these looks.

Cheers,

Rosie's Girl

Anonymous said...

Hated it. Especially that final exit; is that tulle? Is he freaking kidding us?

Anonymous said...

I'm no expert, but it seems like the "styling is so important" comes into play. The models' looks were fighting the clothes for attention.

Anonymous said...

This whole thing stinks. I think he had a bet with someone, and he said these stupid sheep will wear whatever I put out. So he took the bet and made a hideous collection just to see if it would sell. Sure enough, there are some stupid people who will wear this crap.

mjude said...

another laura said...
In the first place, the very word crinoline makes me itch like when I was 7 and was wearing my first communion dress. Anybody else?

OMG!!! me too, me too. LOL

dear zac,i dont get it.

Brooklyn Bomber said...

Oh, I don't think it's all as horrible as many posters find it, and in some ways is very fun and eye-catching. But every look seems too complicated, and a lot of very cute or pretty elements end up overwhelmed. And I can't say I appreciate the breast-, panty-, and garter belt-exposing sheers.

Rainwood said...

Um, no.

Anonymous said...

ack, the whole collection, including his model selection, is completely fug.

Kanani said...

Well, he's selling his image. So he tosses things up there that state his vision, which is one bordello, another part whimsy, one part well constructed pieces. He could have a show with only his RTW but it wouldn't be the same romp that would get people excited about him. And for this purpose, it's all about show and proving that he's Zac Posen, a kick ass designer! Have a good weekend.

Anonymous said...

Posen's collection reminds me of a cheap cruiseship show. Corny, contrived and amateurish. Disappointing.
----StkrShock

Anonymous said...

Agnes gooch, I'm snorting coffee - the women of Eliot Spitzer, hahahahaha!

Unknown said...

I'm sorry, but does any woman like having her boobs hang out and her panties show? And by that, I mean any woman who is not completely trashy. It's just not wearable.

Some of it was fun, but it didn't do a whole lot for me.

kath said...

When I saw this collection online during fashion week, I assumed his muse was Minnie Mouse, because he designed an entire collection for her. Disney should hire him; since they're already taking over Broadway, why not Fashion Week too?

GothamTomato said...

Looks like others got that Cabaret vibe as well. If the Kit Kat Girls became secretaries, this is what they'd wear.

This collection is the fear of every parent whose daughter moves to the city.

--GothamTomato

Lilithcat said...

How is it possible, she asks herself, for a woman with no boobs to be made to look as though she has saggy boobs?

~shakes head in wonderment~

Despite the truly appalling styling, there were parts of this that I liked. The jacket on the left in the second row is gorgeous. The black suit would be very nice if she were wearing a blouse rather than her underwear. And I love the sheer black gown with the thin sash. (By the way, in the photo next to that one, we see the back of a black, halter-top evening gown that looks like it might be fab. Where's the front view?)

I rather like the full grey tulle - a sort of misty, foggy beauty there. And the grey with the red overskirt is beautiful in a whimsical, costumey sort of way. The floaty oyster-colored dress next to that one is very pretty, and would be quite wearable if the bodice were lined.

This, on the other hand, looks as though there was a pillow fight at the Kit-Kat Club - and the pillows won.

Another laura - I don't see the herringbone sheath either. So we can visit the optometrist together.

Anonymous said...

The only one I liked was the sheer blazer with black skirt and red tights. I'm not sure if I could pull that off, or WHO could besides the model, but its the only one somewhat wearable.

Well, atleast this collection will be cheap for him to manufacture. lol

Anonymous said...

Dear Zac,
That's some ugly shit you sent down the runway.

Love,
Me

Anonymous said...

looks like betsey johnson on a bad day

Anonymous said...

Zac's only Posen as a designer with this collection.

(I'm sorry...it's been a long week.)

Anonymous said...

Can anyone tell me what "lerve" means? I saw that on several previous posts, and I have no idea what they are talking about. It must be one of those words that kids are using to text message with.

Anonymous said...

This is a whole lotta ugly. But you know some stupid wench will buy it and wear it. While Zac sits back snickering.

Anonymous said...

i must be a silly girly girl with a fondness for crinoline slips, because i'd wear most of the collection (if it wasn't quite so sheer).
although i would skip the pom poms.

Anonymous said...

anonymous 5:54pm
you got me intrigued, so this is what I found:
1. Lerve
To Love. The act of Lerve. LOVE

2. Lerve
To delight in another's existence beyond what can be expressed with a mundane word like love.

3. lerve
to love platonically, see love or platonic

anyway, there are some outfits that I liked (the gowns), but none of them I lerved...

Gorgeous Things said...

Pfeh

Brooklyn Bomber said...

Sam and Seth, are you the same person?

PhantomMinuet said...

I've seen worse. But there was usually a four-year-old and "dressing herself for the first time" involved in it.

Clearly I am blind because I don't see a herringbone sheath in here anywhere.

Me, either. Unless there is such a thing as sheer herringbone, I don't think the sheath ended up in the pics.

Anonymous said...

All those looks are ugly to me...and the styling is HORRIFYING!

Also, I think his name on the T-shirt is tacky. We know who's show were looking at Zac the attention whore.

Anonymous said...

Funny others mentioned Cabaret...because my first reaction was Eva Braun meets Panda bear.

Then suddenly I got the lyrics to Madeline Kahn's "I'm Tired" in my head. (from Blazing Saddles)

Tired~, tired of being admired
Tired of love uninspired
Let's face it boys
I'm pooped.

hahahaha...

The same could be said of this runway offering. Pooped and not a little bit silly.

Better luck next time :)

Anonymous said...

I definitely see the Cabaret influence; but my first reaction was i had seen the tu-tus in the last production of Coppelia.

Who is he kidding? and they call Chris March "costumey"......

Ms Sangrail said...

Did anyone else flashback to this little Oscar number?

http://img2.timeinc.net/ew/dynamic/imgs/030318/13535__4lowe_l.jpg

Milla said...

I actually liked quite a few things.
Like the organza tux jacket.
The visible garthers?
I don't know about that...
It had a lot of 50's prom dress influences, which is kind of cool.
Love,
Milla

Anonymous said...

I just watched a slide show of the entire collection, and I'm still not sure which is the herringbone sheath.

Help us out, PR guys. Please post a photo!

I thought the collection was entertaining. Some good, some bad, some puzzling, but definitely entertaining.

--Sally in North Bend

Anonymous said...

I saw this just after fashion week on one of my HD channels on the satellite.
All I could think of was that they all looked like Minnie Mouse!!!



herdgirl72

Anonymous said...

He had no business judging PR with that lineup.

And people got on Sissybear for his makeup? OMG, one woman looked like Minnie Mouse in a bordello!

Awful, simply awful.

Anonymous said...

Minnie Mouse the Ho by Zac Posen.

Anonymous said...

I don't mind the yechhy frocks as much as I do the animal fur on the see through/garter number. Overall it makes me appreciate the obvious missteps of early PR "outs". Given this "established" designer's collection, any one of the rejects has hope in the fashion world!

Anonymous said...

Any celebridiot who w(h)ore one of these outfits would get an instant ticket to appear on Go Fug Yourself... the colored tights, the granny panties with garters, the transparent dresses with black bras, the faux-man suits... hot mess. Posen, put down the crack pipe!

Anonymous said...

You've got to hand it to those models. It takes a lot of guts to work it on the runway in bedazzled granny panties, no bra, and nylons in colors better suited for a muppet.

Myra Flection said...

Ummmmmm
Barnum & Bailey meets Cinderella on Ice ?

Total FUG

Save for the 2 gray outfits and the pink tutu dress without the accessories.

Next!

Anonymous said...

Dear God, Zac, what have you been smoking?

Suzanne said...

Who the hell is he dressing? Elves?
Puleeeeeze.

Anonymous said...

I like it!

It would be fun to see the RTW translations.

-- desertwind

Anonymous said...

PS - Lilithcat is right -- the styling is awful.

-- d'wind

Anonymous said...

I think the herringbone sheath is #11, paired with the orange tights. I like it. I also love the fitted pantsuit, the gray/red gown is beautiful, the black gown next to that is GORGEOUS, and the final gray tulle is a showstopper. The rest, yikes.

Anonymous said...

'Fro-puffs!

But really, I like the "doll" look. I think the sheer fabric ruined some of the pieces that, with some de-accessorization, would have been wearable otherwise. The bubble-wrap is a big flaming no, though.

On the subject of crinolines, though, they ought never be so big unless you're going to a square-dance.

Anonymous said...

Also, that gold ruffly thing makes that model look eff ay tee fat! No woman under a size 2 (as she most certainly must be) should look like she struggled to button up such a voluminous frock. Look at those faux-jelly rolls!

Anonymous said...

I can see humans in
- the jacket in the 3rd row on the right
- the jacket in the 4th row on the left
- the 2nd to the last row gown on the left
- the gown in the last row on the right

I'd say that's a standard average.

Anonymous said...

The Magical Elves, Suzanne.

Someone has to dress them.

Anonymous said...

As someone else pointed out (kanani, maybe?), it looks an awful lot like Zac Posen is "trying to sell an image" not specifically a head-to-toe look. Personally, I thought that it was fun. Some pieces I did actually lerve, while others I thought were hilarious. Sorry, Zac.

And as it is often quoted in these parts, "Lighten-up! It's just fashion!"

TED said...

I like the slim gray suit (#9) and the dramatic evening wear (16-18 and 20). I'd agree with "silly" for the rest of it.

Anonymous said...

Things that came to mind...
Madonna in her undergarments outside phase,
the circus or Circ du Soliel,
and Mother Ginger from the Nutcracker.

Nothing that most of us on this planet would ever wear. The styling too--
that's what my 5 year old looks like when she gets into my makeup (without the white pancake).

Anonymous said...

In one word, silly.

And the shoes were the silliest of all.

Anonymous said...

Whoa, talk about costume-y! Would he ever get slammed on PR, or at least he SHOULD. Clowns/wives of Pierrot? Cindarella gowns? 19th Century courtesans? Upscale Halloween or Venetian carnevale parties are about the only place I can see anyone wearing most of this stuff. It's cute and fun but mostly ridiculous.

Anonymous said...

I'm surprised you didn't mention how Karen Elson fell! I think a couple of the other models stumbled a little in those shoes as well.

Anonymous said...

Although not pieces I would personally wear, Zac is definitely on point, with a line that will appeal to the 16-30 year olds who are literally stampeding to buy any and every vintage dress they can find that has either a HUGE, HUGE, HUGE skirt with 2-3 crinolines underneath or 'wedding cake' tulle dresses like his last piece. Prices attained can be astronomical for even dresses with minor damage or missing embellishments, bringing $300-$800 and up routinely, often more if there is a 'name' label attached. It is 'a puzzlement' to see these scrawny girls with no breasts wearing a dress with a skirt that can barely make it through the door. Same with the '40s sheer dresses, worn with NO garter belts or anything else substantial underneath (originally meant to be worn over a stunning satin or silk slip). This line will make him $$$$$, trust me. It's very discouraging. Not what I sell in my shop, but he definitely is following the trends of the young, superficial and fantasy-driven fashion thrill seekers who are ready to thrown down their cash.

Anonymous said...

#5 reminded me of Ricky's Levi's dress with the ruffle on the bottom!

Anonymous said...

Mostly awful and yes, disrespectful (how perceptive, guys!) but I do love a hot woman in menswear, and the skinny gray suit was very very hot. Also thought he was on to something with the diamond stitching motif on the satin skirt, the sheer jacket, and elsewhere, but he didn't know where to go from there except "I see London, I see France." Too bad.

Anonymous said...

Question: in picture #18 - the second from the bottom on the right side - you can see the back of a halter-necked dress. Is there a shot of it from the front?

As for the collection, some of it's fun but, well, mostly I'm underwhelmed. I'm not a fan of deliberately visible lingerie.

Anonymous said...

OMG NO!! NO!! NO!!!

No to colored tights, NO to sheer anything with colored underwear and for God's sake, NO Primary RED LIPSTICK!

What a horrid display and what a waste of bargain bin fabric.

Anonymous said...

PJ:

That's interesting! As a teenager back in the '80s, I was mad for crinoline too -- I haunted vintage clothing stores (Antique Boutique, I miss you!!!) for wide skirts -- the more tulle and lace, the better. I probably would have sold a family member for the red velvet/poufy underskirt number in Zac's show. (I'd probably have worn it to school. With skull earrings and Doc Martens. Be quiet, all of you.)

Anyway, I had no idea that trend was back. I'm glad, actually. I know I had a lot of fun with those clothes waaaay back when.

Sewing Siren said...

Anonymous said...

What a horrid display and what a waste of bargain bin fabric.



If there is a bargain bin with the fabric that Zac Posen used for this collection in it, would someone please direct me to it's location? I promise I will use lining for the sheers.

Sewhat? said...

Now THIS collection is "costumey".

Anonymous said...

Hey thyrza :)
It's kind of an 80s does 50s look, with the exposed lady parts of 2008 thrown in for good measure...lol. But I agree with everyone else in that I suspect no one over that age group or body weight would probably want to be seen on the street in those designs (she says as she gazes at her own hips with squinting, downcast eyes and a scowl)...Mr. Zac has created a 'lotta look'~ and not in a good way!

Stubenville said...

In the words of St. Tim:
"Clown clothes."

Anonymous said...

A couple misses but I gotta say the more I look at it, the more I love it.

Miss Cavendish said...

Zac Posen spends so much time on his "craft" that he forgets the body. There are too many seams, too many details, too many embellishments gone wrong. Zac needs to recite 100 times: "Elegance is refusal."

Anonymous said...

Sewing Siren said...
If there is a bargain bin with the fabric that Zac Posen used for this collection in it, would someone please direct me to it's location? I promise I will use lining for the sheers.


Yep, the dollar table at Wal-Mart. LMAO

lindsey said...

God, look at that second-to-last thing. Where does one WEAR that? She looks like she was hanging at home in her Jockeys when her mathmatician husband came home, so she threw on her super-geometrical lingerie, but then he told her they had to leave RIGHT NOW for a party so she threw on the closest rumpled sheer fabric she could find and that cape where she'd tried to weave feathers into cotton fabric. And that usually doesn't happen to me, so I don't know that I would have occasion to wear that outfit.

Anonymous said...

"Might as well face it your addicted to love"... nice styling.