Wednesday, May 16, 2007 by
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We're not entirely of one mind on Santino's collection. Picking "old Hollywood" as a theme wasn't the most interesting crayon in the box, but Tom liked the "boudoir photography" aspect of it. In what may have been a fit of self-conscious irony, he gave us a runway show that consisted almost entirely of very literal lingerie-inspired looks. Lorenzo was underwhelmed by the theme and we both thought that the construction issues were a major problem. Fit and construction are important, not just for aesthetic reasons, but because they demonstrate that you understand how to make fabric work on a body.
His styling was a little bland. If you're going for old Hollywood glamour intersecting with soft-core porn, then big and luscious would have been more impactful than the restrained prettiness on display.
Let's start the show.
It's okay. Not what we would consider a "wow" piece, but it's pretty. The waist on that thing is pretty high, but he's going for an undergarment feel, so the line actually makes sense. The color's a little subdued, but again, look at vintage lingerie.
And then we see the fit problems. There's no real sense that there's a set of boobs under there. There's just two cups that aren't, y'know...cupping.
We're back and forth on this one. We have to fight the urge to simply say "We don't like it." But y'know? It is flattering and pretty. It does make a bolder statement.
Plus, there's less of a fit issue on this one. We're not crazy about the almost-jodhpurs but overall, the proportions are flattering and the pleating is beautiful.
Again, colors too subdued, but think of vintage foundation garments in an old trunk.
Ick.
She's like a walking Listerine breath strip.
This one seems to veer off-theme, but that's not really the issue. It's just not very flattering or pretty.
We could be sold on the color, but the garment is just so big and blousey and uninteresting.
This is another one that's just okay and slightly off-theme. The more overtly lingerie-inspired stuff is more interesting than the blandly "glamorous" stuff. That layered hem is irritating. It looks unfinished.
And her girls are so squished in there they look like they're holding their breath and the overall effect makes her look hip-y. And yeah, the color story is already starting to bore us, no matter how much we try to defend it.
Love-hate.
It's definitely one of the more interesting looks in the collection.
The problem is, it's just too literal. It doesn't look like it was inspired by vintage lingerie; it looks exactly like vintage lingerie. Except of course, that vintage lingerie took into account that women have breasts. What is going on with those gigantic scalloped things? They're not accentuating her boobs, they're shielding them. Titwalls.
This was actually quite pretty and feminine and flattering. A little basic, yes. But it fit the theme well, it added color without going off-story, and the mix of fabrics give it more interest.
Although, maybe it was just editing, but it seemed pretty clear that this was an Andrae dress - and it looks it.
[Photos: FirstView]
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We could be sold on the color, but the garment is just so big and blousey and uninteresting.
34 comments:
Titwall!!! You guys have expanded my vocabulary, too funny!!
Although I was never that fond of Santino's collection, I had thought of it as being mostly okay with a few pretty things, a few clunkers, and a bland color scheme. But the screencaps do this collection no favors. If it weren't for you guys, I'd have never noticed the titwalls. The 13th look may be the best of this first half, but I think it's still weaker than either Chloe's or Daniel's 13th look. The show did make it look like it was really Andrae's piece, but who knows? I think the baby doll top would have been lovely with a different type of pant--it's one of the best single pieces in his collection, but it just looks wrong with the jodhpurs. Hate the breath strip dress--it's really hard for me to see how any self-respecting designer would select that piece for a major runway showing--lots of designers do outfits that are equally ugly and unflattering, but they're ususally not this simple and boring at the same time.
the third model looks like kara janx.
these clothes' colors keep making me think of taro and chocolate.
i thought this collection is ok...but...where are the ok pieces? maybe i overrated santino.
desarae, I'm totally with you in "titwall"...
I was rather seduced by Santino's collection on TV, with movement and all. But now that you guys have put the screen shots up (again), I'm not so sure... It'd as if Santino can't decide between designing a safe/pretty or conceptually-bold collection.
I've got no beef with the colour. I love his use of colour actually (even the listerine strip one). It's his silhouttes which just seem indecisive and all over the place.
Still, it's always good to note that we're allowed to feel entitled to pick apart his collection because it Bryant Park after all.
Titwalls! Bwahahahaha....
I love it.
I am not a big Santino fan, but I do feel that this collection deserved to get 2nd if not 1st place out of the 3 the judges choose to show at OFW.
I love the train on the 1st gown. The only thing that bothers me is the color of the shoulder straps.
The top of the second look is adorable. I think he intended it to be a dress with high boots., that might have been interesting.. Me no likey leather knickers.
The breath strip dress would have been stunning on a busty red head (like Sewing Siren ) maybe a little shorter in length ...hmm?
I'm not crazy about the two shades of coffee on this (bustier and straight skirt) but I do like the hourglass silhouette.
The straps on the champaine slip look too wide and the staight seam right across the bust is unflattering.
Santino seems to have benefited the least from the "13th look".
I have to add that I don't see the "fit" problems. There are a few that aren't particularly flattering but based on the work he did previously that appears to be the look he was going for.
Interesting. I think the "boudoir photography" aspect must've totally passed me by first time around. I feel like such a doofus.
Knowing this lifts the collection for me. Slightly.
If the guy could only learn (or care to learn) how to lift and separate a woman's breasts, he might advance from costume to fashion. He might even design some appealing clothes.
-- desertwind
I smile every single time you describe a piece of clothing as "irritating." Love it.
"listerine breath strip"
"titwall"
you guys outdid yourselves -- thank you!
Thank you for reminding me that he had mentioned vintage lingerie as an inspiration. Tim just kept mentioning Hollywood Glamor and I was so lost! It actually makes him seem more cohesive in my mind, though that's not saying much because he had none before.
Also, Titwalls? You owe me a new keyboard! Brilliant.
Oh, Santino. Why did all of this have to fall so flat. I was expecting a lot more crazy from him (and I think Nina was disappointed not to see it, haha.) Of course, I liked his better than the other two collections, but that's not saying much.
OH. MY. GOD. Titwalls?
You bitches never stop!!!
It's freaking HILARIOUS!!!
It's pretty official: everyone that reads this entry will be adding titwalls to their lexicon.
Project Rungay, expanding your vocabulary one sashay at a time.
Anyone see the similarity between the Listerine breath strip dress and the blue abomination dress in Jeffrey's collection? They both have the same ill-fitting v-neck construction that makes the bustline look like 2 spinnakers. Just sayin' . . .
does anyone else see that the outfit that tara is wearing in the lingerie challenge and the outfit shes wearing at bryanT park are EXACTLY the same
come on i cant be the only one
just don't like it, it is too bland. especially for the never bland Santino. in an attempt to be 'pretty' he ended up just being basic.
I didn't think Santino's was the worst of the final three collections. Like the other two, I found it pretty 'meh'. But it's kind of interesting (well, to me anyway), that the best of the collections from a coherence and generally finished standpoint was Kara's decoy collection.
Wow, either PR's gotta do something with the camera angles or I need a more expensive tv--I thought Santino's collection was gorgeous before I saw these 'caps. From these first few close-ups, I'm not sure this is any better than Daniel's.
Hm. The third dress in this post looks VERY similar to a dress from Jeffrey's collection. Remember? The one the judges hated?
I like the first and the last outfit. But that's abut it.
Odd that you would single Santino out for his construction of all things. Tim had nothing but praise for Santino's construction skills on the collection, saying it was the best of the bunch. The fit problems (according to Tim) were because he was the only one who arrived in New York with a finished collection. It was easier for Daniel to have a fitted collection because he was sewing outfits on the models the day of the show.
In fact, wasn't this Tim's favourite collection? I know he was sort of indifferent to Daniel's, and (despite the editing) really didn't like Chloe's.
Whatever Tim's opinions may be or how valid they might be, he's not one of the judges.
And I've got to agree with the Boys on this collection.
Yeah, I'm puzzled as to why you boys are ripping Danny V on fit, when you have Mr. Titwall here (good one!). Santino's is far worse than I remember, screencaps do not help.
I just remember being floored that Santino finally took the judges admonitions to tone it down to heart, at exactly the wrong moment. Dude, did you not see Jay's collection? You don't tone it down for Bryant Park. I was expecting something at least interesting or provocative from Snidley, and got this poorly fitted yawnfest.
btw, I'm thinking that the Andrae dress looks so Andrae because it's being worn by Danielle. They should have put it on a different model, although she does look pretty. Santino got the best models, by far. Tarah & Danielle rock!
The more I see the collections, the more I realize that I find the challenges and construction of garments far more interesting that the finished product. After the first 2 or 3 looks, I am fairly bored with every collection. I don't think it's all the designers & collections - a big part of it is me. Am I losing a gay gene or something??
I'm still at a level where I'm intrigued by the very most basic. Like the fact that these artists seek to show a masterpiece in the way of a collection of pieces.
Thanks to PRG & Co. for the help in the way of pointing out what to look for.
Bill, you're a credit to your community as far as I can tell. Don't leave 'em in a lurch.
:)
Season 2 of Project Runway has the overall worst set of collections. It's a strange phenomenon, given that it also has what I would say was the strongest set of competitors. Of course every season has their clunker: Wendy Pepper, Michael Knight (or is it spelled with a y now?), Daniel Vosovic or Santino based on preference; but season 2 collections also had an overwhelming blandness that seasons 1 and 3 successfully avoided.
I think Santino's collection was the most finished in the sense that the garments were most ready to be purchased and worn out in the world. But I don't think the fit issues are entirely due to him constructing so much in advance. Even at the design level, he's not very boob-friendly. On the first dress, the shoulder straps pull the bodice wider, which means there's no support along the sides, and the Listerine dress completely ignores the boobs altogether.
Anonymous said...
Season 2 of Project Runway has the overall worst set of collections. It's a strange phenomenon, given that it also has what I would say was the strongest set of competitors. Of course every season has their clunker: Wendy Pepper, Michael Knight (or is it spelled with a y now?), Daniel Vosovic or Santino based on preference; but season 2 collections also had an overwhelming blandness that seasons 1 and 3 successfully avoided.
I think a strong argument could be made for any of the final three from season 2 being the "clunker". The deliberation among the judges centred around Daniel and Santino - Chloe was considered out of the running from the start, until Nina made an impassioned speech on her behalf.
And I believe Chloe's collection was Tim's least favourite, like I said. And just from a purely aesthetic point of view, ignoring the judges and Tim, a strong case could be made against the dresses/upholstery.
I know you guys are dying over the offing of Tabs and Weaselboy, but seriously, I need the ripping of the second part of Santino's collection! It's okay if you do it drunk, we don't mind.
Sorry, but to me it just screams, "MALL!"
Plus, it is so completely different than anything he did all season long it leaves me with a lot of questions as to what, exactly (if anything) is genuine.
--Gotham Tomato
He just does not know what to do with titties, does he?
That being said, I thought the second look was pretty cool.
Are you guys kidding - Chloe's was by far the most interesting collection. In fact, I don't think the judges have once been wrong when choosing the winner. Chloe's dresses might not be for everyone, but she did something new and unexpected with materials, which also framed the body form in interesting ways. The dresses were an exploration of form without getting pretentious. Daniel's had some nice surprises too (the button pants, the collared coat), but sometimes doing the subtle-elite thing can get a bit precious. Usually, collections like that have one iconic concept they integrate, which takes them out of "bland." In Daniel's case, the military thing worked for some pieces, but not for others. And there is no way they're going to make the winner someone like Santino, who makes even "perfect" bodies look awkward in clothes.
Just because I need to see it again:
Titwalls!
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