Lorenzo: First of all, I hate the hats --
Tom: I agree. They don't even look like hats. They look like fabric pinned to their heads.
Lorenzo: It's just way too haute couture -y. Too derivative of haute couture designers.
Tom: It smells like "wannabe." Anyway, I don't love the skirt - mainly because of the fabric - but the top is gorgeous.
Lorenzo: Despite the hat, I really like this look.
Lorenzo: I hate the hat.
Tom: We know.
Lorenzo: Fucking butterflies!
Tom: We KNOW. Let's just assume that we both hate the hats going forward. I think this looks very "old lady."
Lorenzo: The skirt especially.
Tom: The skirt looks like a slip. As for the top --
Lorenzo: I hate the trim on it.
Tom: Me too. Overall, I thought his color story was drab, but trying to dress it up with that ugly floral didn't help.
Lorenzo: I liked the jacket very much.
Tom: You DO?
Lorenzo: It's very well-structured. Don't you think?
Tom: Sure, but I think it's probably one of the MOST derivative pieces in the whole collection.
Lorenzo: I agree, but it's still pretty.
Tom: So are butterflies.
Lorenzo: You're a bitch.
Tom: I know, right? Anyway, I do like the doilies on the skirt but I don't like the fringe.
Tom: I love this.
Lorenzo: Me too.
Tom: I think we like this because it's the least "fussy" look in the whole collection. Simple and chic.
Lorenzo: I don't understand why he went in such an overdone direction for this collection. It's nothing like his work during the season. Anyway, I do like this one and I like where he positioned the doily.
Tom: Doilies done right.
Tom: Doilies done wrong. It looks like Christmas wrapping paper.
Lorenzo: The dress is nice.
Tom: Except for all that fussiness at the top.
Lorenzo: True, but the silhouette works. It's just all those freaking doilies!
Tom: Starting with the jacket, I liked it all except the Batman points on the shoulders and the cuffs on the sleeves.
Lorenzo: Agreed. And can I just say that the shoes were completely WRONG for this collection?
Tom: You just did. Hooker shoes with granny clothes. I'm getting dizzy thinking about it.
Tom: Let's just say that out loud: "crocheted bikini." Say it.
Lorenzo: It's not awful, but the bottom looks like a diaper.
Tom: Keeping with the granny clothes theme, then. Crocheted Depends.
Tom: FUG.
Lorenzo: Titscrepancy!
Tom: It looks like an elf costume from Lord of the Rings.
Lorenzo: I hate those sleeves.
Lorenzo: I loved this.
Tom: It moves beautifully. I just don't like the fabric.
Lorenzo: I disagree. I think this was one instance where the choice of the fabric worked.
Tom: I'm just not loving the colors. I don't like the mismatched straps either.
Lorenzo: That is just...the bottom is... wrong. Who would...?
Tom: You're speechless. I think she looks like a depressed Can Can girl.
Lorenzo: The skirt is just awful.
Tom: It might not have looked so bad if it wasn't sheer. Naah. You're right. It's just wrong.
Lorenzo: Sheer skirt with an asymmetrical ruffled hem. How many wrong things can we fit in one look?
Lorenzo: I don't have a problem with it.
Tom: The dress is fine. The FABRIC, however. It's just so ...Golden Girls. Having drinks on the lanai with Rose and Dorothy, that's what it is.
To sum it up, despite whatever good parts there were, the collection as a whole was so overwhelmingly derivative that we can't appreciate them. It felt a little calculated. Like if he put out something that looked like haute couture, the judges would spew all over it. Well, it worked for one of them, at least. How about that little crying jag? Was that not alternately hysterically funny and bizarrely uncomfortable at the same time?
[Photos: slice.ca]
90 comments:
The moment the first look walked down the runway, I screamed "Valentino!!!" I love some of the looks, but it was highly derivative. And the painted fabric? Works in some, but you're right, definitely drinks with Rose in others.
I'm SO glad someone else finally mentioned the shoes. They hurt me.
Thank God, I can finally vent about this! I hate the whole collection. True, there's some fabulous tailoring, but crochet?! Lucian has always been way too precious, and I say it in the nicest way. He's lovely, obviously the apple of his parents' eye, but crochet?! I hate the hats and hate the precious "pose" he had his models execute. His was my least favorite of the three -- and I can't believe Rita Silvan! -- During his runway, I thought we'd fallen in the middle of one of those ritzy Agatha Christie movies, the ones where 1920's and 1930's high society women haunt international hotels.
Not young and certainly not fashion-forward.
All I could think of when i saw it was "Dear god, he's chanelling Mrs. Howell..."
I thought the idea of using crochet was a really great one however the mash with the haute couture, prints, hats, shoes...help!! Fashion Overload.
The woman from Elle Canada gushing and crying was scary...I think she fell in love with him!
Well aren't you both just a couple of Hella Rippas! =D Good job guys. I agreed with the majority of your comments. I never noticed the shoes before. Do you know if they came from the Winner's accessory wall or were they given an allowance for shoes? I don't remember them mentioning on the finale.
I'm so glad Iman decided to go with Biddell. There's nothing original in this collection. We've seen it all and probably done it all, including the crocheting.
Aesthetically, I would have placed Lucian in third place because the collection felt dated and Dior-liked. However, the cohesiveness of the collection bumps him into second place overall. I feel really bad for Lucian because all season, the judges and Brian Bailey attempted to teach him how to edit himself. He only started after taking full credit in the 2008 mini collection challenge from Megan and Shernett who asked him to not add any details at the last minute. Also, I also believed that the 3 months reverted Lucian make into his old overembellished self. If he had done his collection under pressure, he would have been less likely to add details and more concentrated on clean simple designs. So basically, he should have procrastinated because his best works were done under pressure and on a short schedule a.k.a the weekly challenges.
I also liked the three pieces that were pointed in the article: the simplest dress, the bikini/coat combinaison and the flowly dress with the questionable fabric. The rest of the pieces were ruined by too much details.
"matchchatter said...
Fashion Overload."
That's exactly it! It's like he couldn't stop adding shit to every single piece. I know it's hard to edit yourself, especially when you're that delusional about your own work, but c'mon, this collection had everything but the kitchen sink. I hated it!
THE SHOES!!! Thank you!!!
They were horrible and so wrong for this collection. What was he thinking?
In a nutshell: Not fashion forward, not innovative. Next!
While some may call the collection derivative, he took some risks with the crochet. I don't think I've seen crochet on the runway before.
While he didn't win, his collection made a statement. It's obvious he put a lot of work into the collection and I'm sure a lot of people in the industry noticed.
Besides, I'm sure Lucian will be successful despite runner up.
Some of the pieces are to die for, but I think trying to do couture by yourself and not a team might not have been the best strategy.
I kinda knew he lost when he went with the hats. I'm not sure what he was thinking... I guess he was just trying to do 100% paris runway or something, which is probably what he wants in the end anyway.
YAY!! I'm so happy you're discussing this collection (and the other two, i hope)!
Ok, crochet just screams old lady to me. I'm sorry! I didn't like very much about this collection except for the one dress with the doily on the hip. I could live with that.
He put a lot of time into it all - that's clear. I'm sure the workmanship was top notch! I just can't get into crochet.
Awh, I loved this collection. The shoes were awful but it was just really beautiful to watch go down the runway.
Has it occurred to anyone that some actually like "old lady" aesthetic?! Not everyone wants to be fashion forward. Not everyone wants to dress like they are pre-teen cartoon characters! (not everyone is... gasp, young! or WANTS to BE young). There are customers who like the look- and why not, Goth is not for everyone, business suits are not for everyone and yet they exist despite not being fashion forward every five minutes, or appealing to everyone, no? The boy likes doilies and company (we don't know why, just that he does, and surely he's not the only one on planet Earth to do so).
He showed again at Fashion Week- visit his website for his latest collection- everything from the clothing, to styling, to presentation, to photography, set design, etc is very well coordinated; yeah, he'll live, prize or no prize I don't think a career change is in order for this one, lol. Speaking of which, where's Biddel and his money? Did he buy the condo he was talking about instead of launching his label? I was really rooting for this kid, and hoped the money would make a difference in his growth and put him on the road to maturity (these two should collaborate, they need what the other one has, it's be so entertaining, the "hamster" fight carried the whole show anyway, lol)
As far as the comparison to Galliano and the other designers- not fair- what about Lacroix, and even Gautier at times?! There are seasons some pieces look like they can belong to either of them. Do they copy each other?! Or does that mean they have the same customer? So if there's room in someone's closet and pocket for more than one designer (who wears only one label anymore), why is it a bad thing Lucian seems to have the same (type) of customer? Isn't that what every line wants? Cohesiveness and an existing customer? Isn't that what every buyer wants- clothes that fit in with their existing store merchandise?
I wouldn't wear every single look (and I could pick outfits from each collection I would gladly walk around in), but let's not forget he's still a pup, you can't love every piece- do you love every piece in any of the established designers' collections- all 40- 60- 75 of them? Me neither. There are looks in every collection I wouldn't be caught in, so there's no need for a double standard.
And to say we want original- let's not be hypocritical, how many bashed Marc Jacob's surrealist collection?! Humans generally have four limbs and a torso (plus a head some make use of)- there's only so many ways to dress them and I think we've experienced them all in one way or another in the past couple thousand of years.
Lastly, if this was not on TV for us to pick apart, how many can say they are capable of putting that amount of work, skill and dedication into their collections? He is good at what he does, even more than a lot of the "established" designers in the American PR.
If I'm disappointed with anything is MG's collection- some of her pieces were really good and definitely reflected the (most interesting of the three) inspiration(s). She got put down too much for it (not that the outfits that looked like MG clones were not on the creepy side), and though Biddel produced some good pieces, the whole collection did not make sense, how was it a collection? It was more a bunch of collected pieces put together. But the most hilarious statement he made was that he wanted to use fabrics that would not harm the environment- and then he shows us the skin of the animal his family shot!!... Coz animals are not part of the environment, right?
So... can anyone say they honestly expect PR (any version) to produce stellar world class collections? C'mon, keep it in perspective, Chanel has been around since the beginning of times, is it realistic to expect anyone on this show to miraculously grow into someone with that kind of established precision after a few weeks of playing with leaves to make a couture garment for astronauts to take with them to the aliens on Zeta 5 when they drop by?
"Elizabeth said...
Has it occurred to anyone that some actually like "old lady" aesthetic?! Not everyone wants to be fashion forward. Not everyone wants to dress like they are pre-teen cartoon characters! (not everyone is... gasp, young! or WANTS to BE young)...."
Jesus, have some wine, relax, it's just fashion.
I was not expecting a crocheted bikini to be underneath that coat!
Golden Girls go wild on the Vegas strip seems to be the theme here.
Flashback!
Having once owned a crocheted bikini, I can only say that it was a BIG mistake to actually allow it to get wet....
Oy! THat dress that looked like a sad can can girl reminded me of Stacy Estrella's dress in season 2...
Yikes.
Thanks for ripping the obsequious little toady a new one.
Most of the clothing was so fugly I couldn't believe he's had the nerve to put it on the runway. That little crouch/curtsy/whatever he had them do at the end of the runway. Jebus!
Feh. Just feh!
I totally disagree. I think the collection was beautiful and fun. I concur that some of the design choices worked better than others...hated the plastic colored bracelets...didn't notice or care bout the shoes...loved the soft colors and patterns of the fabrics...loved the whimsy of the "hard-candy" hats with butterfly confections. I think it would behoove everyone to get over the "derivative" dogma and get past the obvious petty prejudices of associating innovation with the "youth-rock-"I'mABadAss"-AmericaFuckYeah!"
attitude towards fashion as being the only one considered progressively valuable or innovative (there's a "derivative" term for you). Designing for "rebel youth" is about as cutting edge and fashion forward as sliced bread...ask Ms. Bennet her thoughts about that "avant-garde" concept.
The hats were whimsical and fun; the butterflies were humorous and feminine. The crochet was risky, but he did make that visual cliche' work better than I would have ever expected; and in many of the pieces it was amazingly executed. If you want to pigeon hole all pastel fabric and floral appropriations as "old lady couture" then you really aren't being open minded or inclusive with your judgment.
Most would say it is a compliment to be compared to Valentino; using that comparison and saying it is too similar to haute-couture as a means of dismissing the work is laughable.
And as for the "crying"...since when is it a shameful thing to show emotion or have an emotional response? You people act like it is the most disgusting thing a person can do, to be genuinely moved or appreciative of something on an emotional level. What kind of world are we living in when people make fun of others who actually feel something as opposed to nothing?
How many times have we seen Tim Gunn cry over some dowdy make-over?
Was he being a "scary" drama queen or was he just falling "in love" with them? We need more people in this world who actually express their feelings without fear of being ridiculed. Emotionless zombies are what has made the world the ugly mess that it is today.
I thought the collection was cohesive, I thought it had the look of 30's couture glam to it. The shoes and the poses were way off base and those hats ... well, they suited the look, I think. Two words ... Over done. And to think he was m y fave going in to the final. That crying thing had my eyes rolling as well, btw. So, are doilies the new rosettes?
I THOUGHT I liked this collection until I saw the closeup photos and you pointed out some pertinent details. However, I STILL like the hats - I thought they were whimsical, romantic, and fun. The shoes were awful though. After all was said and done, I really thought it was the most finished and cohesive collection, and told his story. Crocheted bikini? - I also wore one back in the sixties, and it WAS a bad idea! And by the way, I'm not sure there IS a collection today that isn't "derivative" in some way. I mean, how many ways can you dress a female figure? Lucian should be very successful, and deserves to be. He seems to be well on his way.
For the poster above that said they'd never seen crochet on the runway before-
While it's definitely been done before, I think the funniest example would be, well...
Jay McCaroll, Season 1 runway show. And his actually looked good.
The hats. Yes, the hats.
This is what happens when air traffic controllers get overworked. All kinds of flying objects are landing helter skelter, and sadly these models got in the way. The hats look like they happened accidentally; like the models were on their way to Ascot and took a detour through Area 51.
And a lot of the color stories in those outfits made me glad that those old movies, from the 30's, are in black & white.
I do love that he's trying to bring crochet back. But unfortunately, the results turned out to be a bit like Justin Timberlake trying to bring sexy back. No. Just....no.
--GothamTomato
Eeek, I can't get past the hat things. I actually liked the second one (was it?) that you two thought was old ladyish, other than that one, just ugly, except maybe the one doily on the side dress that was OK, except for the doily on the side.
I will add though, that the collection looked much better when it was moving down the runway, than in the still pictures (except the hats). In the still pictures you can see that his ideas need editing.
So maybe the moral of the story here is to keep moving?
---GothamTomato
Rita must have had some great hallucenogenics before the runway show because Lulu's collection was, for the most part, shiteous. The hats? The stripper platforms? Just about everything in between? Made absolutely NO sense to me whatsoever.
Ironic that the dress Lucian liked the least (and Biddell liked the most, as did T, Lo and I) garnered the most positive feedback from Shawn and Iman.
Can't wait to read your reviews of Biddell and especially MG's collections. Until then, my lips are sealed. :-)
Yes! Yes! Yes! Agreeance! I did love one outfit---the mustard number with the waist doily! I coveted that one. The rest of that stuff? Totally Loretta Lynn AFTER Patsy Cline died!
Thanks for posting about PRC!
I really liked the print of the "drinks on the lanai with Rose" dress, and the other ones you guys liked. The yellow one wiht the crocheted doily was stunning. Just beautiful.
Hated the hats. Just hated them.
Anne
Why is the sad can-can girl wearing blue boxers under her fugly sheer skirt?
This collection shows the need for designers to edit. That's more whickety whack than I've seen in a loooooong time.
I swear the sad can-can girl looks like she's wearing boxers under that skirt. Eek!
Darn you fiadnaita, you beat me to it. Nice to know I'm not the only one to see it though.
The depressed can-can girl also bears more than a passing resemblance to the young Margaret Hamilton.
--GothamTomato
Up until the point Lucian's model's walked down the runway, I thought the clothes were awful, but honestly, on the runway there was something about the way the clothes moved that just looked so beautiful to me. And even the prints, which I'd thought were horrible when I'd caught glimpses of them earlier in the episode, looked pretty and fun.
I can understand people thinking that the collection didn't look "young" but I don't necessarily see that as a major issue. He's just not designing for 20-year-olds.
I liked both Lucian and Biddel's collections, though they were so different from each other. I found it hard to determine which one I'd chose to win.
LOL. Gotta agree with the rips and comments.
OMG. Those HATS!!!!
OMG. Those shoes!!!
OMG. All those doilies!!
OMG. That crying jag from Rita, about beauty and innocence??!
Don't know where to begin. So I leave it to yall. A few pretty things, not that fashion forward, some editing would have done him well, and a bit derivative.
Also had to love Iman for standing her ground and making a choice for "different" as opposed to "same ole, same ole."
So, it wasn't that Lucien was bad (then again, THOSE HATS? THOSE SHOES? THOSE DOILIES? THOSE POSES?= too precious); it's just that he can do pretty, but needs to learn to edit, and he might find a pretty niche for Canadian fashion (for Rita and her friends).
I keep forgetting to ask - did that first model's tits look as weird on the runway as they did in that picture? Because I swear it looks like she went to get her breasts done and the doctor got bored halfway through!
Anne
I really love hats, but in themselves, a hat is a work of art. In this case, these "headpieces" didn't add anything and in some cases served as a distraction.
My friend makes hats and has been featured in museums in Paris as well as on the runways for haute couture houses.
Fussy is a word that came to mind for me too. The prints, the crochet, the silhouettes were just too much when combined. Or as Tim would have said "That's a lot of look." The hats and the shoes only made it worse. Used sparingly, the crochet could have been fabulous. The prints not so much. His overall fabric choice seemed puzzling. Either too garish or too dull, but only that yellow dress and the bikini/coat seemed to hit the right combination for me.
And it doesn't strike me as a young vs. old question. Nobody - regardless of age - wants to look like they're trying too hard, and that's unfortunately what Lucian's collection looks like. He wanted to win so much he put everything he likes into these clothes - all at the same time. And that's too bad because he seemed like a sweetie on the show.
It seems some of you don't realize that Lucian is an Couturier designer and not an 'edgy' sportswear designer. His aesthetic is different from Biddell's and MG's and he is not designing these clothes for 20 something women, so don't pretend that he is.
People should critique his collection for what it is(a whimsical, mature couture collection) and not for what it should be (fashion forward street wear)
I appreciate his talent and his collection, my tastes are different than his; I like structured, black and with little or no embellishment such as designs from raf simons and ann demeulemeester. But at least i recognize and appreciate different styles of fashion. The industry cannot just thrive on fashion-forward design,there is still a place for other disciplines of fashion design (classic, avant-garde, sportswear's, couture)
I like his collection, it is overly embellished but it is well made and well executed (with some exceptions)
Also I find the term 'edgy' and 'innovative' very commonplace. These terms are used far too often by the wrong people who don't really know what they are talking about on certain things that don't even apply. Its to a point that it has become trendy to be 'edgy' and 'innovative' and you cannot confuse trends with innovation.
Er...I actually like this collection. Oh, sure, the hats, horrible, and he did go overboard with some of the pieces but...most if it I liked, and some of it I loved. Hey, what can I say? Maybe I've just watched too many of those Agatha Christie movies where society ladies from the '20s haunt international hotels.
Er...I actually like this collection. Oh, sure, the hats, horrible, and he did go overboard with some of the pieces but...most if it I liked, and some of it I loved. Hey, what can I say? Maybe I've just watched too many of those Agatha Christie movies where society ladies from the '20s haunt international hotels.
Completely agree with the majority of comments -- the crying display from Rita was utterly embarrassing.
I think Lucien was very calculating and knew exactly what he was doing when he created this collection -- he was playing directly to Rita -- in an attempt to split the vote. Watching all season, she was the most likely to support him, so he gave her what she wanted and in turn created somewhat of a zealot in her.
He definitely learned from the Iman's dress episode how to play to one person solely and that was his best strategy to win.
Too bad it was just all so wrong. Left alone for three months, to his own devices, he reverted back to old patterns of behavior. Sort of like Michael did last season.....
In response to Karma: I absolutely agree. What Lucian created was a work of art - yes there were issues with individual pieces - but on the whole it was flowing and colorful and lovely. So what if you can't swim in his bathing suit - look at some of the stuff coming down the runway at the Bryant Park or Paris shows – some creations are obviously just the conceit of the individual designers and absolutely not wearable in any reasonable situation. Look at the Victoria’s Secret shows – one set had a disembodied hand on one side of the panties. Wanna pull a pair of slacks over that?
And lest we forget - we of the older set are the ones with the money to actually BUY this stuff. Who came out ahead at the end - Laura or Jeffrey? Fashion forward, edgy, innovative – so what. 20 year olds do not buy thousand dollar deconstructed jeans.
And if I did want to go to a designer - I would rather have a benevolent spirit like Lucien make me something truly lovely. I know he would listen to my needs - not ignore a simple request like MG did with her naked feet - or call me a bitch like Biddell who couldn’t even make an appropriate dress for Iman.
And as for Rita – wouldn’t it be just wonderful to have our icy Nina or jaded Michael or even sweet little Heidi feel so deeply over ANYTHING that it would bring them to tears.That's why we love Tim - he is the only one who cares enough to FEEL something.
Yes it’s “only fashion.” But remember – it is also ART. And however insubstantial
Fashion may be – Art is not. It brings beauty into what is, at times, a very ugly world.
"gloria said: So what if you can't swim in his bathing suit - look at some of the stuff coming down the runway at the Bryant Park or Paris shows – some creations are obviously just the conceit of the individual designers and absolutely not wearable in any reasonable situation."
That is what all creation is: A gallery is just an ego with walls; a magazine is just an ego with pages; and any painting, photograph, novel or design is the same.
That is just the reality of creation. Creation is ego made tangible.
--GothamTomato
Saying that Lucien's collection reminds me of Valentino is not derogatory. I loved Valentino. When I saw the Haute Couture exhibit at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, his pieces were the ones I liked the best. I think Lucien's was the best of the three collections that were presented, and I think it should have won. But I stand by my statement that the collection was derivative.
"I do love that he's trying to bring crochet back. But unfortunately, the results turned out to be a bit like Justin Timberlake trying to bring sexy back. No. Just....no."
SexyBack was the top single of 2006 and is rather critically well-regarded (and still gets played in bars and clubs.) Not really comparable to Lucian's collection.
Veronica said...
"Anonymous said...
It seems some of you don't realize that Lucian is an Couturier designer and not an 'edgy' sportswear designer. "
Well, than create something that is UNIQUE and 100% YOURS! It's obvious thatr he goes for the old- school, haute-couture type of fashions, and that is fine, but find something that represents you, not Dior, Galliano or Valentino.
You cannot award a designer whose work reminds you of a few haute-couture designers out there.
His work is well executed but it doesn't add anything that hasn't already been replicated a thousand times.
What is going on with the top for the elf dress? It looks like she has a tumor or a third breast. It's just an odd top.
I liked this collection best in movement, and even though the still pictures point out many flaws, it's still my fav. Not because I would wear any of it, but because each piece is visually engaging. There is a lot to look at and it beckons my girly-girl self. I like the crochet for the most part. I think the collection was cohesive and Lucien stayed true to himself.
During the season, Lucien proved that he can be a bit overwrought, and I think this trait showed through in his collection.
I also hated the hats but barely noticed them after outfit 2. I didn't notice the shoes for the same reason - too busy looking at the details in the clothes. As I look at the "art" of them, I wonder about the artist and what he was expressing. I think all artists want that.
Will people buy his clothes? Yes, I think some will.
k so we all know that this collection was lame and that the comments during the judging in regards to it were vague and arbitrary.
now get to mg and biddell!
both of those fierce bitches rocked the shit out of that runway.
(especially biddell's black model with the fro)
I'm 50 and I'm Canadian.
NO ONE in Canada wears or will ever wear clothes like this. They belong on the French Riviera, circa 1925.
Both MG's and Biddell's collections were way better than this.
I loved the hats, I loved the colors, I loved the way the clothes moved.
(And what's wrong with the French Riviera in the '20s?)
Hmmm... I wonder why everyone is screaming that crochet is old lady but we all loved Jay's quilting in season one. I suppose its because of the way the crochet was done, but still. Old lady stuff can be fashion forward if its done right.
On the runway I really liked this collection but looking at the peices up close and not running away I can say that there are only a few peices I liked. I actually liked his color story AND...yes I liked the hats ::hangs head in shame::
honesty.not.pc said...
Hmmm... I wonder why everyone is screaming that crochet is old lady but we all loved Jay's quilting in season one. I suppose its because of the way the crochet was done, but still. Old lady stuff can be fashion forward if its done right.
Yes, it was done differently, and yes, old lady stuff can be innovative (innovative doesn't necessarily mean young).
Lilithcat said...
(And what's wrong with the French Riviera in the '20s?)
Nothing "wrong." You're allowed to have a different opinion. It's OK. Really.
I hated the color scheme too- it was old and moldy for the most part.
MG was way better in my opinion, I'm not sure why she was picked out first. Any criticism aimed at her could be blasted at Biddell, easily.
Oh, happy, happy, joy, joy! Somebody to play PRC with!!
That said the collection did feel very "ladies who lunch" to me, and I am sure Lucian is making a very good living off that market. And will continue to.
And I have to peevishly point out that I find it funny that many of Lucian's ardent supporters here can't seem to say what they have to say in less than 500 words. It's like the written equivalent of his aesthetic. (ducking and backing away now!)
Agnes said"And I have to peevishly point out that I find it funny that many of Lucian's ardent supporters here can't seem to say what they have to say in less than 500 words. It's like the written equivalent of his aesthetic. (ducking and backing away now!)"
Because trying to articulate an
intelligent defense takes longer than a one punch dismissal of a talented artist. (18 words)
" agnes gooch said...
And I have to peevishly point out that I find it funny that many of Lucian's ardent supporters here can't seem to say what they have to say in less than 500 words. It's like the written equivalent of his aesthetic. (ducking and backing away now!)"
I. LOVE. YOU.
(Three words) : - )
I loved the '30s aesthetic of Lucian Matis's collection, and I admired the skills that produced it. Those swingy skirts are really flattering on a woman's leg, and they move so nicely. You all are going to have to convince me that there's anything interesting except color in Biddell's collection.
I, for one, would be happy to see the phrase "lighten up, it's just fashion" disappear. It was horseshit from Michael Kors--rarely a lightened-up guys--and it's horseshit from any of us who take the time to be here.
I don't really care if it was derivative - it still could have been some beautiful clothes (and a hell of a lot cheaper than the originals).
But it was sooooo slighty stickily tacky-esque. Things were just about 10 degrees off on almost everything; color, shape, styling, fabric choices, etc.
If the design concept was good, the fabric choice wasn't (the prints were too loud or the fabric too heavy for the garment or the fabric itself wasn't right for the intended construction). If the concept of crocheting was sound, putting doilies (and, let's face it, most of it was doilies) on everything, everywhere, without restraint was insane.
I actually liked the shape concepts because, yeah, older, richer women could probably wear some of the pieces (after re-tooling) and not feel slightly rediculous - even in Canada. The concepts seemed sound, the execution was jiggly.
But this is one guy who *really* needs a full partner who will tell him "NO! Bad Lucian. Down, boy!" and be able to follow through.
There's nothing wrong with the French Riviera, except it's not Canada OR the U.S.
Up North, there's about 21 days in any given year where those clothes would be wearable... on a movie set.
Lucian should give costume design a try. He'd be great at it.
Rita wasn't really crying, she just kinda choked up for a split second (like MG did in her interview) and then Lucien starting bawling. I didn't think it was all that weird, she was probably just hormonal and emotional for the last show. I thought that one print dress that was Biddell's favorite reminded me a bit of Zac Posen's prarie look.
My husband and I came up with another word for "Titscrepancy," though it may have already been suggested in the blog comments back then, I don't remember...
"DiscomBOOBulated"
Anonymous said...
she was probably just hormonal and emotional for the last show.
Hormonal? Is Tim Gunn "hormonal?"
Was Lucian "hormonal?"
There is something wrong here...and very disrespectful of both women and any real feeling. This sounds more like a good ol boy red neck blog than a sophiticated review of fashion. Even Laura cried when she was tired and discouraged - oh -no - not a good example - she was just "hormonal."
And just to vent a little more - "tits" and "boobs?" That's getting a little old - and sadly juvenile.
Anonymous said...
she was probably just hormonal and emotional for the last show.
Hormonal? Is Tim Gunn "hormonal?"
Was Lucian "hormonal?"
There is something wrong here...and very disrespectful of both women and any real feeling. This sounds more like a good ol boy red neck blog than a sophiticated review of fashion. Even Laura cried when she was tired and discouraged - oh -no - not a good example - she was just "hormonal."
And just to vent a little more - "tits" and "boobs?" That's getting a little old - and sadly juvenile.
"I was on the sideline and guys
From a news story on the Washington Redskins: "we were talking about the score, and then it hit me - we won by 21," veteran left tackle Chris Samuels said. "I came in the locker room and I yelled it out, and immediately I just kind of broke down in tears. Because I miss Sean, you know."
Gosh. He must have been "hormonal."
I think the hats were pure runway. But the effect would have been better if only about half of the models were wearing them. I love the platform shoes, but I just love platform shoes, so what can you do. The sad can-can skirt is one of my favorite pieces, it is too sheer though (multiple layers Lucian) and I hate the boxers.
Over all the collection is very pleasing, he has a lot of variety yet it all kind of fits together. I see more of a 40's influence rather than the 20's and 30's that some of the other posters have suggested. And yes it isn't new.
Gloria, get a grip.
Why is it that some rants are okay and some are not? It is pretty sexist to call Rita hormonal. Gloria's right.
I really like the look of some of Lucian's work, but I can't deny the charge that it's derivative. Something about Lucian makes me sad.
Anonymous said...
Gloria, get a grip.
I would if I were not quite so...uh...hormonal.
Anonymous said...
"It is pretty sexist to call Rita hormonal."
And that's all I meant. YOu said it better.
" Something about Lucian makes me sad."
Perhaps because he is designing for a world that no longer exists.
Hopefully, he will hold on to his artists image and make a place for himself.
hurray for PRC recaps!
i agree with a lot of your points about lucien's collection. individually, the garments are not very impressive. but as a collection, it definitely makes a statement & shows off a lot of his skills. i think what rita was getting at, was that lucien presented his collection as one big piece of art & fantasy & that his overall vision was very beautiful & optimistic. i assume that's why she was so touched by it.
while i agree that his color palette was strikingly drab & the floral pattern overwhelmed the more delicate pieces, he did have some moments of gorgeousness. the big flowy dress moved like a dream & the cut outs were inventive. the coat with the funky sleeves was wonderfully constructed. and the crocheted jacket was impossibly well-tailored. and i really loved the hem details on the second & seventh skirts, despite their fugly tops.
i still feel bad for lucien. you could tell he worked so hard on these clothes. it was easy to see that he spent every single minute laboring on this. and to have the prize go to the guy who did half of his collection at the last minute... it had to be a punch to the gut. poor lucien.
Yes, what _Finding the Filth_ said about Lucian makes sense. I think that's what I meant about my finding him sad. (I'm the anonymous above who finds him sad.) He's learned the really hard life lesson that you can work astoundingly hard and have lots of talent and still lose to the (mild) jerk who manages to pull it off without all the work and the longing that drives you.
Although there were a few clunkers, I loved the collection as a whole, especially the way it moved on the runway.
And I don't get the derivative criticism--everything in fashion is derivative--it's just a question of what/who it's derivative of.
"Fashion-forward", "fresh" & "innovative" just seem to me to be codewords for what's currently trendy. What's so innovative about following trends?
Poor Lucian worked a little TOO hard on his collection. Too much work. Too much fuss. Too much.
He's stuck in the 70s (with its 30s influence) of his drab ol' Romanian 1980s childhood. This is the life and color and glamour that he dreamed of.
Marisa Berenson in Cabaret would've looked beautiful in these costumes.
They are beautiful. But oh so sad.
I wish I'd expressed myself better because I love the overall movement of these dresses.
He needs to grow up a little and move away from his little prince persona. There's romance here, but it's overwhelmed by an unintentional melancholy. Perhaps his work would improve if he acknowledged that?
I imagine Rita was picking up on the melancholy-drenched "optimism" (plus, she could feel which way the wind was blowing) and that's why she cried.
A dissertation could be written on his fabric choices.
I loved the second dress (the "old lady" one!) and the christmas wrapping dress, too
"findingthefilth said: i still feel bad for lucien. you could tell he worked so hard on these clothes. it was easy to see that he spent every single minute laboring on this. and to have the prize go to the guy who did half of his collection at the last minute... it had to be a punch to the gut. poor lucien."
Yes, but if he can walk away learning not to let that drive him crazy, then that's a big prize in itself, because that's just life. Some people always have things just handed to them, when you've worked harder.
Whether its that they were just born beautiful or rich or connected, or whatever it is that means that they've had things just handed to them, and it seems unfair (and it is), but it can eat away at you (especially in a competitive business) if you don't learn how to deal with it, and make peace with it, because that is never going to change.
--GothamTomato
gothamtomato typed: "findingthefilth said: i still feel bad for lucien. you could tell he worked so hard on these clothes. it was easy to see that he spent every single minute laboring on this. and to have the prize go to the guy who did half of his collection at the last minute... it had to be a punch to the gut. poor lucien."
Yes, but if he can walk away learning not to let that drive him crazy, then that's a big prize in itself, because that's just life. Some people always have things just handed to them, when you've worked harder.
I'm rather hoping he learned the opposite; that working really hard can sometimes be working too hard.
Especially since during the show when he admitted to, and obviously got, better responses from the judges and designers when he didn't overwork things. If he'd been able to take that lesson away, he'd have had a much less stuffy collection.
I guess he didn't agree with what everyone was telling him during the competition and went straight back to what he was doing before all that learnin'. But then he has to lump it when, shock, he gets exactly the same kinds of criticisms he was getting right at the start of the series.
I really hope the ending did drive him crazy enough to sit back and seriously deconstruct what happened and why and knock off with the sicky-sweet derivation of the big name couturiers.
The second to last one looks like a Southern belle's underwear.
MY GOD! Think about it! IF designers made clothes that older people liked! Life as we know it would end! Oh the chaos, the turmoil, the inhumanity of it all!
Geesh! And what everyone has against floral prints is really beyond me--If I see one more solid colored ANYTHING I am going to hurl. You know why designers like solids?? BECAUSE THEY'RE EASY TO WORK WITH AND CHEAPER TO PRODUCE.
Ya know--after reading your comments all the time about 'granny' this and 'granny' that--I have decided to rebel and clearly state--I like flowers, doileys, ruffles, lace and everything else that is labeled 'girly' (oh horrors! to be linked with something female) and 'old fashioned' and certainly--very certainly NOT YOUNG.
Annon Sais:"Ya know--after reading your comments all the time about 'granny' this and 'granny' that--I have decided to rebel and clearly state--I like flowers, doileys, ruffles, lace and everything else that is labeled 'girly' (oh horrors! to be linked with something female) and 'old fashioned' and certainly--very certainly NOT YOUNG."
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
A vote for female and girly and
emotional and ruffles and feathers and GROWN UP and yes - even doileys!!!
A big hug to you!!!
"gloria said: A vote for female and girly and
emotional and ruffles and feathers and GROWN UP and yes - even doileys!!!"
I like doilies too. They look nice on an antique dresser. But I wouldn't slap one on my ass and walk down the street like that.
--GothamTomato
"Anon said: I guess he didn't agree with what everyone was telling him during the competition and went straight back to what he was doing before all that learnin'. But then he has to lump it when, shock, he gets exactly the same kinds of criticisms he was getting right at the start of the series."
I only watched a few of the Canuck episodes, so I missed that.
But I guess he's like Michael, from S3, in that way: Extemely talented, but still young enough to need a coach/editor to reign him in and help him sort his direction.
--GothamTomato
For the (rather prolific) naysayers, a couple of points to consider between your hormone shots:
- to say you dislike doilies on a dress does NOT mean that you dislike ALL such embellishments EVERYWHERE, ALL THE TIME.
- to say that a dress looks a little granny does not mean that you dislike ALL clothing made for mature women EVERYWHERE, ALL THE TIME.
- to say that you dislike ONE floral print does not mean...well, 'you know.
And finally, when one encounters an opinion that differs from one's own, by all means, offer an opposing point of view. Argue your case. That is after all what makes for good conversation. You know what makes forpoor, tiresome conversation? HAMMERING your point of view home again and again and again while taking all other points of view as a personal affront against your own. It's okay for people not to like this collection. It doesn't make them ageists or mysogynists. Your implications otherwise point you out as the rather childish people you are.
Gotham said: I like doilies too. They look nice on an antique dresser. But I wouldn't slap one on my ass and walk down the street like that.
You got me. I think I had too much sugar over the holidays....
Did the judges know that Lucien was showing at Loreal Fashion Week Fall 2007? He had his own show (http://www.raymondchow.ca/photoset_lfw-fall-2007-lucian-matis.html). Still could have used editing on the details, although there were a couple of knit items that were sleek and sexy.
His models do the same precious pose at the end of the runway. . .
He cranked out two amazing shows at once. Both look so very detailed and totally Lucien.
I LOVED his collection! it's soft, feminine and beautiful. Loved the hats, pastels, crochet. LOVE!
Post a Comment