Monday, April 14, 2008

Judging the Judges: Alberta Ferretti Fall 2008 Collection

Once again, style.com has the goods:

"Jewel-like color and peacock blues and greens are a story coming out of Milan, and that's where Alberta Ferretti took her Fall collection. What she does, of course, never strays from the pretty—you wouldn't expect a dramatic departure here—but now it's in a slightly different form. The clothes were less fluttery and with the embellishment toned down, though they still retained the femininity her customers love.

Instead of drifting, dresses were curved in the hem and gathered into the neckline, like the feather-print satin version that opened the show. Other shapes traced a trapeze line—one of them flowing into accordion pleats in back. Ferretti also paid special attention to making new volumes in coats, using shiny Mikado silk bonded onto a wool lining that holds structure without weight. Still, it was the simplest pieces that drew the eye most: a fine-gauge grape turtleneck worn over a wrapped chiffon skirt; two understated gray-beige draped jersey dresses; and, in the finale, deep purple, emerald, and brown velvets subtly detailed with burned-out effects marking the folds in a raised waistline. They struck a note of restraint that felt right for the mood of the moment."

"Restraint" is definitely the word we would use here. Coco Chanel reportedly once said "Elegance is refusal" and we think this collection embodies that sentiment. While the silhouettes sometimes border on shapeless, there's just enough draping and shaping to flatter the body. The colors are absolutely gorgeous as well. We have to say, we think this collection is beautiful.

































In other news, we FINALLY updated the T Lo blog with a new post today! Aren't you bitches lucky?

[Photos: lexposure.net/Getty Images - Slideshow: Project RunGay]

57 comments:

  1. I definitely like the colors she used.

    But I agree with thenycourier- eh.

    The whole collection looks exactly like a bunch of patterns I saw in one of the Simplicity pattern books at JoAnn Fabrics a couple weeks ago.

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  2. I love the colors and the shoes.
    My favorites are the emerald green satin empire, the amethyst chiffon with center front shirring and the sapphire velvet with cf shirring.
    The coats and especially the capes are kind of awkward looking.

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  3. I like the pretties but I'm over the black legs, and I should think by next fall, the fashion world may be, too. That is one trend that has overstayed its welcome.

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  4. I love the colors!
    Some of those would look smashing on a full figured woman. I mean, head turning, men lusting, other women sneering with envy!

    BTW... great photo Sewing Siren. I always like looking at your changing pics!

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  5. It's very chip.

    ... Just kidding. (Sorry, I couldn't help myself :)

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  6. I really like the colors and I LOVE LOVE LOVE the shoes!

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  7. Aren't they a bit, dare I say.. pedestrian?

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  8. I think it's a beautiful collection, and separately, the pieces are beautiful as well. I love the colors and the fabrics. Very elegant without overwhelming you.

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  9. I love this collection. It's a very modern and fresh approach to some very familiar silhouettes. Loved the color story, shoes (!!!) and fabric choices. I think that women of many age groups could pull off these looks. In short, loveloveloved it.

    * The amethyst cape/cocoon piece is genius although I fear it would not work well on women with curves. Still pretty and brilliant though.

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  10. Loved the colors. But everything looks like the one before and the one after. Way to simple designs. Boring!!!!!! I could have done better.

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  11. The pleating looks interesting. Deceptively simple. Draping that doesn't scream! I wish we could see the backs.

    -- desertwind

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  12. Why on earth to designers keep pairing heavy black hose with light, floaty dresses? I hate that look!

    But those blue/black/silver shoes? MINE, I tell you, mine!

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  13. I love Feretti, as a rule, and this collection is no exception. Granted, I wouldn't wear that dreadful pink thing on a bet, but I love the rest of the collection, especially the fabulous color.

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  14. That first blue dress?
    That's what they were handing
    out at my last
    gynecologist appointment...

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  15. It's elegant in its simplicity.

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  16. The colors are great, the leggings are fugly, and there's maybe one or two designs that are flattering to the female form. The rest....many of them look like hospital gowns. I expect that when the model turns around, they will be tied in the back for easy access for the doctor.

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  17. a-nony-mouse said...
    That first blue dress?
    That's what they were handing
    out at my last
    gynecologist appointment...


    Hilarious.

    See, it's funny, because it's true.

    Shapeless indeed. I do love the colors, but I don't really care for the designs. I didn't see one dress that I would want to buy (if I could). If it makes those tiny models look frumpy, then my hips have no chance in hell.

    And pardon me, because I'm having a "fat" day, but what is with putting pleating on high waisted skirts and such? Talk about accentuating problem areas....

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  18. Gotta go with amy on this: I. Want. Those. Shoes!

    But the rest of it, I think I can live without.

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  19. Most of those dresses look like badly made Simplicity pattern dresses. That was more Home Ec project than runway show.

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  20. I really love the colors, some of the dresses were meh, but for the first time this season, AWESOME SHOES!!!!!!! I can't overstate how much I want those shoes.

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  21. Ahhh - beautiful clothes for women who have never eaten. Anyone over 115 couldn't pull off the shapeless look without being drowned in it or looking tentlike.

    Having said that, I truly love the colors and hope to see more of them.

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  22. Alas, jewel tones will always look dated to me, perhaps because they were dominant during my high school years... I know they're fresh again, but my eyes don't see them that way. And I agree with other posters that the black tights are done.

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  23. Black tights are not done. They're not, they're not, they're not. (Squalling.)

    Love this collection. I love the simplicity of the lines and the slight mutedness in the jewel tones.

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  24. Anonymous said...
    Black tights are not done. They're not, they're not, they're not. (Squalling.)


    You are so correct, anonymous. Black tights are the height of fashion and will never go out of style. Never!

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  25. Well, like some and don't care for others, but what a bunch of shapelessness. Even a nice fluffy lady like myself could hide in some of those. Not that it would be flattering, though. And if you have a nice figure, why not show it?

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  26. I liked the shoes, I guess, and the colors were good, but the dresses themselves didn't look like they'd fit anyone. "Awkward" is the the right description...

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  27. "Black tights are the height of fashion and will never go out of style. Never!" - sewing siren -

    That's right, sewing siren & Anonymous (3:29)!

    Black tights withstood the test of time and fashion. We saw them in the 50's beatnick look, 60's pop/mod, 70's artsy/funk, 80's techno, 90's cosmoploitan, fashionista chic and now as an all-around wardrobe staple.

    Viva la black tights!

    - edina -

    ITA: Need. Those. Shoes.

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  28. "Black tights are the height of fashion and will never go out of style. Never!" - sewing siren -

    That's right, sewing siren & Anonymous (3:29)!

    Black tights withstood the test of time and fashion. We saw them in the 50's beatnick look, 60's pop/mod, 70's artsy/funk, 80's techno, 90's cosmoploitan, fashionista chic and now as an all-around wardrobe staple.

    Viva la black tights!

    - edina -

    ITA: Need. Those. Shoes.

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  29. This is a little off-topic, but did anyone hear that Christian has a BOOK coming out?

    OMG.

    I think he took Amy Poehler's makeover career suggestion seriously.

    http://www.rawvegas.tv/watch.php?vID=60db79c3eb4dbd60022db70c668788

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  30. Clothes? Were those models wearing clothes?

    Sorry, I must of missed this alleged "clothing" because I could not tear my eyes from those SHOES!!! Love. Love. Love. Covet. Covet. Covet.

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  31. Love the jewel tones, but those are some big silhouettes and long hemlines. Perhaps black tights never go out of style, but that doesn't mean they should be worn with everything. And I'll let others fight over those shoes. They're a bit too flamenco stomp for me.

    There was an interesting article I think was in the WSJ about how some designers are starting to rethink the whole couture/runway marketing effort. Most of the designs on the catwalk never see production and the corporate types now in charge of most fashion houses aren't seeing enough value in the "buzz" from runway shows to offset the costs of mounting these collections twice or more a year. It will be interesting to see if we start seeing different marketing strategies in the future.

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  32. I kind of like this, but nothing really floats my boat. Except the shoes. I love the shoes!

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  33. LOVE Alberta Ferretti's line! Fabulous!!

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  34. I only like the collection, but the shoes are to die for. I love them!

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  35. Ehhhhh.....I like the black tights, but NOT with cocktail wear.
    The collection is just a grade C for me, though the shoes are FAB!!
    A question, though...why do all the models look like they are 12 years old?? Is pre-pubescent the new look for the season???
    -----StkrShock

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  36. I really don't like it.

    But I really HATE HATE HATE the black tights. When will that trend die?

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  37. Love some of the pieces. Dislike some. Scratchin' my head about yet others. But some really are gorgeous.

    Rainwood said, "Perhaps black tights never go out of style, but that doesn't mean they should be worn with everything."

    Yes! I'm with the rest of the Black Tights Moderation League: black tights are wonderful, they are a staple, they are necessary. But they do not look good with light colors and fabrics. Enough, already!

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  38. StkrShock said, "why do all the models look like they are 12 years old??"

    I was gonna mention that, too. They look soooo young, yet so sophisticated. It's a little creepy.

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  39. Love her. I bought a couple of her dresses from some Hong Kong company (they might have been knock-offs) and they are admired by everyone who sees them.

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  40. Hey - don't knock the pattern companies (or even JoAnn) Project Runway even has a line of home sewer patterns that are awful fun. They are getting some teens that I know - and some of them are more sophisticated dressers than other teens - to make clothing, alter patterns to fit and add design details. They inspire people to try. Sure there's a lot of kitch in the stires, but also a lot of materials that can be turned into something "fashion"!

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  41. Actually I liked a lot of this collection, but we red heads can pull off those colors well.

    The shoes I love-- finally the heels are chunkier!
    A few years ago I had to throw out my far too often repaired black, chunky, high heeled character dance shoes that I wore anywhere that wasn't a bit casual. (I called them my witch shoes, or my black widow shoes.) I can't wait to buy a new pair now that the style is back!! Sigh!!

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  42. oh so NOW you like teal and pink. i get it, hypocrisy is the new black. ;)

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  43. I LOVE all the shoes. Nothing extremely original I suppose but I adore the blue and green ones. Me want.

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  44. I love it!!!
    but a little bit too commercial...

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  45. Love the colors, love some of the dresses, and put me in with the others who need, want, must have THE SHOES! TELL ME WHERE TO GET THE SHOES! (Sorry. Momentary Manolo frenzy.)

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  46. The shoes are amazing...
    I like everything except the red coat....
    It folds a bit akwardly. I know it's supposed to be architectural, but it just does not do a body justice.
    Other than that I really like it.
    I love that they are so full-figure friendly.. I can put on 3/4s of those and look amazing..
    Love,
    Milla

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  47. I think this is what Laura Bennet would like to produce. A very beautiful, refined and elegant collection.

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  48. Glorious colors but babies! Who can wear shoes that high and for how long? Love the look but the potential pain overwhelms the shoe lust!

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  49. I really just don't get it. Extremely thin tall models looking shapeless and fat in shiny sacks. Gosh that'll look good on real people. Interesting enough shoes, yes, but a couple of pieces even looked like time constrained train wrecks from PR. This is really pretty far from anything Laura B would produce.

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  50. I love the shoes!

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  51. I love the shoes!

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  52. The colours are beautiful, but many of the silhouettes combined with the black legging and shoes ... it's very Victorian in "A Little Princess" kind of way. Good for shapeless pre-pubescent girls. Not so flattering on a woman. The necklines that dip below the clavicle (and the one or two that reveal a bit of cleavage) are good, but the rest ... eh.

    I can see the overall charm, but it looks like they're all trying to hide body flaws (that we all know they *don't* have).

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