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Irina Shabayeva Fall 2010 Collection

"Paging Dr. Zhivago..."



From the press release:

"Shabayeva's Fall collection is a delicate balance between the ethereal and the industrial while incorporating materials from Tupperware® – one of America's most beloved brands and the winner of numerous design awards, including several prestigious Red Dot Awards. This unusual collaboration inspired Shabayeva to create looks that manipulate plastic into modern day ready to wear. She will debut five pieces using Tupperware® materials, in addition to many accessories on the runway.

Inspired by the evolution of flight, the Fall collection will pay homage to The Da Vinci Glider,
Amelia Earhart, and wings from our most natural fliers – exotic birds from around the world.

"This collection is about the fantasy of flight and liberation," said Shabayeva. "It's about finding what liberates you." "When we saw Irina on
Project Runway, we were simply in awe of her of talent and vision," said Tupperware Brands' Chairman and CEO Rick Goings. "As a company that has long been focused on innovative design, we're thrilled to work with someone who is so forward-thinking and whose work is inspiring and empowering."

Highlights from the Fall collection include intricate hand-painted prints, feather dresses and custom made hats. One of Shabayeva's signatures is mixing exotics with clean silhouettes, so look for luxurious fabrications with flawless tailoring. Hand-knit sweater coats will be paired with cut-out leathers, wool and elegant fur trims. The finale will be a flutter of feathers, hand-beaded embellishments and embroidery."


























































So much springs to mind upon viewing this gorgeous collection.

First, to those who might sniff at the Tupperware connection we say this: you try and mount a show during Fashion Week without any form of corporate sponsorship. We'll wait. Sure, it's easy to crack jokes about Tupperware clothes, but you've got to play the corporate game at all levels of the fashion industry. For people at the top, it's American Express and Moet Chandon. For those trying to make a name for themselves, it's Tupperware and Payless. We see no need to be snotty about it.

Second, we're not sure from looking at the pictures if the fur is of the real or fake variety. We're not pro-fur by any means, but if it is real fur, we can somewhat withhold judgment on that because for now, Irina is clearly pulling from her Russian heritage in her designs and fur is a huge part of that. If this is real fur, we hope she's gotten it out of her system going forward.

Third, her season of Project Runway was roundly (and rightly) criticized, which, in our opinion, cast an unfortunate pall over her win. With this collection, we feel she's shut up her critics. This is a stunningly beautiful collection all around and to our way of thinking answers the question as to whether or not she deserved to win. Kittens, that is a fucking designer.

And finally, we LOVE her for sending a coded "fuck you" by slipping in another t-shirt with writing on it in response to the controversy over her quote, unquote "plagiarized" t-shirts from her finale collection.


[Photos: WireImage]



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331 comments:
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Lovelovelove the collection!! Congratulations, Irina. And thank you boys for posting all weekend.


Wow! I thought her PR winning collection was ok (and the clear winner that season) but not great. This just blows me out of the water. dramatic and gorgeous. Way to go Irina!!


Beautiful collection! Love it! It is obvious that she was the winner from last season!


"Tlo said: And finally, we LOVE her for sending a coded "fuck you" by slipping in another t-shirt with writing on it in response to the controversy over her quote, unquote "plagiarized" t-shirts from her finale collection."




HA! I was thinking the same thing!

This collection is really stunning. I would have preferred it if there was not quite so much painting of the feather patterns, but that's splitting hairs (or feathers). I love the silhouettes, the textures, the knits-- she just sees the big picture and thinks of every detail.

I'm thinking that THIS is the best first post-PR collection from any designer we've seen.

Congrats to Irina!

--GothamTomato


I wanted to hate this collection because I find her to be a deceitful bitch. But it's a stunner.


WOW. Her collection is GORGEOUS! I love the color palette and all the wools, feathers, and furs... though I hope she's using faux furs! Regardless, she knocked it out of the park! Congrats, Irina! You did a marvelous job!


These clothes are just stunning. Amazing that the winner of the least satisfactory season of PR has produced this beautiful collection.

That said, I really hope it's fake fur.

Tom and Lorenzo, I know I speak for many devoted minions when I wish you both a very happy Valentine's Day! Relax, eat some chocolate, drink some Champagne!


I was never a fan of Irina's (she rubs me the wrong way for some reason), but she's a fantastic designer, and this is a stunning collection.

I actually didn't read the opening lines until after I viewed the collection, so I didn't realize that there were Tupperware/plastic products incorporated into her designs. I must say, I'm even more impressed, now that I realize that fact, because her designs don't have the slightest hint of plastic containers for leftovers.

Anyway, it's fantastic. C'est tout.


Gorgeous EXCEPT that does look like real fur and that turns my stomach, Russian heritage or not. It's unnecessary to showcase the skin of a living creature that was killed by sticking an electrode up it's anus for no reason except human vanity.

But the designs are gorgeous. I don't know where to start. Ethereal and beautiful and here I can see her spirit in her clothing. Really stunning collection.


I didn't care for her personality on the show, but she presented a strong final collection and this is an undeniably gorgeous collection. Amazing.


Absolutely stunning... especially the last 3 dresses I find really beautiful.

I loved her collection for PR but this is on a completely different level altogether. Didn't know she had it in her.


First off, there is no need to do the quote/unquote thing, Irina did plagiarize the text on her t-shirts. Copying someone else's written work without permission or attribution is the textbook definition of plagiarism. It would have been better to just let everyone forget about it, IMO -- her decision to call attention to a controversy which reflected her poor judgment once again illuminates her poor judgment.

I'm surprised by the love fest here. This stuff screams "costume!" to me, and while I loved the felt hats Irina made for her finale collection, the fur toppers here are yawn-inducing. The painted-on feathers (they are painted-on, aren't they?) seem weird to me, too.

Maybe I just need more coffee.


Does anyone know what the tshirt says?


Wowza. Absolutely beautiful. I love the way she worked a feather print in, in so many different ways. And the coats! The knits! So much to love.


It is a very beautiful collection, It should also be noted that the birds from which the feathers were taken were most likely also killed for the sole purpose of collecting their feathers. While the clothes are all stunning, I can't help but feel the birds and mammals that most likely died so it could be made were far more beautiful.


I was never a huge Irina fan- my aesthetic runs much more vintage. But that collection was AMAZING! I want one of those bird coats soooo bad. That bitch totally worked it and I am happy that someone other than Princess is making a name for herself.

BTW, have you been following Jay on Celebrity Fit Club? That boy needs his own show. I adore him.


Thanks doll,
The Glamorous Housewife


OK, I really don't understand the praise because it seems to me that she's using the same color palette and the same textures as she used not only in her final PR collection, but throughout that unfortunate season. What's different here? What's so great here? Knitwear, feathers, fur, printed jersey. I've seen it all before.


Awesome. It appears that the lackluster quality of S6 was doubly unfortunate, because if she had had more serious competition, we might have seen some amazing clothes come down that runway.

Love the hats. I hope it's fake fur, just because real fur smells bad.


fur and/or feathers = fail for me. While the construction of the jackets is cool, the trim is disgusting, as well as being way too much.


Fiferstone said...

OK, I really don't understand the praise because it seems to me that she's using the same color palette and the same textures as she used not only in her final PR collection, but throughout that unfortunate season. What's different here? What's so great here? Knitwear, feathers, fur, printed jersey. I've seen it all before.


You know, I wish people wold think twice before they write "I've seen it all before."

Everything has been done before at some point in history. It's how you interpret it that matters.

This is an entirely different collection.


I do love the collection, but the girl just can't wrap herself around color, can she?

SisterZip


Blue and brown aren't colors?


raisin mountaineer

I like the mostly black/ivory/camel color story that is in no way drab. Nice! I think the collection is cohesive and striking, and I like the range of shapes and looks, almost all of which are flattering.

However, I don't much like the painted on or printed feathers-- too souvenir-t-shirt for me.

Nor do I care for the use of feathers and fur-- they're very pretty, but haven't we gotten beyond that? I keep thinking of the founders of the Audobon society desperately trying to convince women that they didn't need to wear feathers in their hats... And fur, well-- I can see wearing fur in a culture and in a time where you need it to be warm (I myself have an ancient-- 1940s-era-- fur coat in a trunk somewhere, that I used to break out only in sub-zero MInnesota)---

But we don't need fur now for warmth-- we have many many other materials that do the trick-- and as for pretty, well, the fake stuff is looking better and better. Hopefully that's what most of this was. For 100K or however much she had to do this collection, I"m not thinking real fur would have gone too far.

Overall, very nice, and it expresses Irina's confidence and range. It's too bad she got the bitch edit in the show-- I bet she now sees the value of knowing when to keep her mouth shut! I look forward to seeing more from her.


Wow. My original assessment was that Irina was the clear winner, but without much competition in a lackluster year. This collections says she could have won even if there had been real competition in her year and she can stand easily with the other winners.


I like many of the pieces, but don't love the collection as a whole. The feather print is interesting, but I got a bit tired of it by the end. The final few looks are stunning.
I agree with the previous poster, that there's no need to use "quote, unquote" the word plagiarized. It was plagiarism, no matter how much I liked her t-shirts.


STUNNING. Absolutely breathtaking.


While I don't get the scare quotes around plagiarism--It WAS, though I think hers was naive and just a mistake--I agree that this is gorge. It's visually arresting. I love that she used Kaelinn (sp?) again, too.


I'm with carol in LA. I want to hate it because I don't like her, but it's VERY pretty and VERY well done.


So does anyone know where she incorporated plastics? Maybe the hats are Tupperware bowls covered in fur LOL!!

But the collection is stunning.

and I hope that is was not real fur.


THANK GOD IRINA WON!!!! she deserved her win entirely.


As Tim Gunn likes to say, "it's a matter of taste"! Irina can design and construct and I'll give her that but there's just so much I don't like here. It's not bad, I just don't like it. The silhouettes, leggings, bird costume coats, cowl necks, blah colors, wildlife theme. The last dress reminded me of thanksgiving turkey! I liked her PR show better.


It's a beautiful collection, though not my taste.

But something about it rubs me the wrong way.


Beautiful collection. But i can't support the use of furs and exotic feathers.

Like Christian, I wonder if she'll be forced to tone down her flights of fancy to make more sellable clothes. However, I think a first collection is not the time to be simply marketable, but make your statement on who you are as a designer. For that, she gets a lot of credit.

She's clearly talented, and the right winner of last season, but the use of fur in particular disgusts me.


I am totally anti-fur, BUT, if the coat in frames 23 and 24 is available in faux, I would totally and completely covet it!!!
I am not fond of Irina as a personality, but I must admit, this collection is absolutely gorgeous.


TLo (in a post from fall 2009) said: "We're not attorneys, but it would seem to us that this material falls under the same protection laws that prevented her from using the Coney Island image. Further, because she was told not to use the image, she can't really claim ignorance on this matter. Which means she deliberately used copyrighted material a second time after being told once by the producers that she was forbidden to do so."

Joan said "copying someone else's written work without permission or attribution is the textbook definition of plagiarism. It would have been better to just let everyone forget about it, IMO -- her decision to call attention to a controversy which reflected her poor judgment once again illuminates her poor judgment."

This is why I can't get the Irina love. There's more than a bit of arrogance in the plagiarism of others' work so blatantly. While designers do take riffs off other designers, what Irina did with her PR tshirts was a different thing altogether.

I know some folks don't see this as an issue. But having one's work stolen with out attribution isn't ok. Wouldn't be ok to do with this fabulous blog, isn't ok to do with other printed material.

So Irina's judgment - further illustrated by her use of fur & feathers - shows quite a bit of arrogance. And whatever her talents, I just can't respect her because of that. She stands in my book as very representative of what was wrong, from start to finish, with Season Six.

srq


I was prepared for the collection to suck after reading the press release intro, but after seeing it, I'm going to have to go with, "Gorgeous and striking."

But yeah, I hope she stops using real fur, if that's real.


the model in the black fur hat with the plastic wings... boy does she lookd possessed or pissed off every time she comes down the runway!

send for the priest to drive out the demons!


Wow, okay. Gorgeous. I thought she should win that lackluster season, but I didn't expect this much exuberance and beauty from her after her streamlined, low-key finale show last year. The feathers (fake, I hope?) are used to great effect, but the painted ones are my favorite. And she could make her name on sweaters alone. Beautiful.


After reading the other comments -- yes, it was plagiarism, no quotes about it. And I did get tired of the feather print after a while -- too much of it made me start thinking about gift shops with crystals and those "three wolves" t-shirts.

But the shapes overall, and the use of color, were stunning to me. Almost like Erte.


The fur in this collection is 100% real, very disappointing. It's very easy to tell real fur from fake fur when it looks that convincing.


SO GORGEOUS
Love it


Where's the Tupperware?


There are things I like about this collection, but the feather prints look incredibly tacky to me, like the type of thing "Eurotrash Girlfriend #3" in a movie would be wearing.


HANDS DOWN, the best fall 2010 collection in fashion week so far. Seriously. SHe's crushing all the famous well known designers that celebrities wear. Irina needs to be recognized, she will go far. This collection too me away to another planet. Breath taking, I hope success reaches her to the limit.


Gorge.


Irina did a fabulous job.

She was called a bitch repeatedly, but to me this is an example of a woman with the goods - bringing it, to hell with the critics. I love how her work speaks for itself. The light blue coat outfits and the last three dresses were amazing.

Great job Irina!


is wanting the fur-hooded feather tutu outfit


Yuck. Sure, these might be pretty clothes, but at what cost? When I see these clothes, all I think of is dead and/or tortured animals. Incidentally, I just read *Eating Animals* by Jonathan Safren Foer. AMAZING.

http://www.eatinganimals.com/


Anyone else craving a turkey sandwich?

gorge!


I love that first coat, but would kill for that grey ombre fur. (Only if it's real, of course.)


While some of the looks are comely, I can't get over the use of real fur. Knowing what we all now about the reality of fur farms, it's gross and inexcusable today. Then again, I thought Irina was too. I love tough women, but her personality bordered on the disturbed.


You can keep the feathered mini dresses but I WANT.THE.REST.OF.IT.

Takes my breath away (but I would not buy real fur.)


WOW Irina! I really want that short white dress with the feathered detail in the middle...very wearable but very chic.


Taken on its own, its definitely a beautiful collection - she definitely has an eye for pattern with the feather designs.

But in conjunction with her work on PR? I think the whole thing is pretty repetitive. The silhouettes and textile choices are the same thing she was putting out on the show. The color choices, mixing knits and fur, the oversized cowls, ponchos -- haven't we seen her do all this before?

Its all beautiful but I hope she has another trick or two up her sleeve.

flory


Maybe it's just me, but when I read that she was using the same materials that made up Tupperware, then I immediately thought that both the fur and the feathers were just that.

Regardless, I really loved a lot of the pieces of this collection. I do hope she continues to do well. Great job, Irina!


I hate the painted feathers, and there are a LOT of them. They look like the kind of cheap mass-produced souvenirs you get in the Southwest.

I disapprove of using fur and feathers, too, and of her reminding us that she plagiarized, but I do agree with TLo that, painted feathers aside, this collection is visually stunning.


it's good, but is it necessary to include a whole polar bear worth of fur in every outfit?

i hope it's faux, but i really doubt it coming from her. either way it's tacky.


I hope she did use real fur. It is more beautiful and luxurious, and in keeping with her heritage. Love it.


I also would have liked the feather motif if it were used a bit less. I love the idea of the coat whose lining makes it look like you've got wings. Clever idea.

That cape was totally Battle of the Planets (anyone? G-FORCE!), it lacked only a beak on the hood.

One of her models makes a Molly Shannon face...very silly.

On the whole, lovely and sophisticated. Taken individually, where I'm not overwhelmed by the feather motif, I like it quite a lot, fur notwithstanding.


Please. Heritage? Like mass exterminations and no heat?
Long live cruelty, er I mean
luxury!


My favorite use of the wing print is on the lining of the coat. It's a bit much for me on the outside, although I think it really works on the one white coat where it's a bit more stylized. I also love it on the scarves. She's once again proven herself to be an incredibly talented outerwear designer.


This is a beautiful collection. Congratulations Irina.
Very Russian. I love the use of real feathers mixed with the printed feathers.
The fur hats and fur trimmed caps are stunning. Especially the white.
I also find it rather touching that she is continuing with the model that she had on PR.
I have never set much store in how the designers come off on the show. Because it is entertainment and they have a story to tell.


Irina's collection is stunning. She is clearly very, very talented. I can't help thinking though that the fur and feathers would have looked even more beautiful on the animals and birds to whom they belonged originally.


Lovely collection. And good for her for sticking with her Project Runway Model. And putting her in the two looks, including the final dress. Shout out for loyalty.


I feel like some of the pieces here are beautiful (like that white fur dress/hood) and some look exactly like her PR runway collection (grey sweater, grey t-shirt, everything leggings). I don't really have an opinion on fur, I think there's nothing wrong with a vintage fur, I know some of the animals used to make fur are also used in science classrooms for teenagers because I dissected a mink there and at least not all the bodies go to waste, though I do believe there are better ways of accomplishing your desired effect without killing animals, people as a whole spend way too much time and money demonstrating against fur and not nearly enough on other suffering human beings, but that's a rant for another time.

It's a pretty collection mostly, (with the exception of the printed on feather designs, they're kind of native american casino gift shop wear to me) and I'm mostly surprised by the level of real DESIGN she's shown in this collection. It's much better than anything she ever created on project runway. I think Christian's fall line is better though. IDK why, it just speaks to me more I guess.


Derivative, pretentious and tacky. Oh yeah, and cruel as hell.


Tacky Siberian faux chic.

NEXT!!!!!!


It's an attractive and cohesive collection, but the silkscreened feathers and the "luxe" furs, feathers, and cashmeres reminds me too much of fashions geared for wealthy Montana housewives in the Neiman Marcus catalog (where I'm sure she'll find a rabid audience).

I do like the silkscreened feathers. Not as enamoured with her t-shirts of handwritten deep thoughts (be it from her or *another source*).


B-A-Utiful collection! No ifs, ands or buts. I too find fur repulsive. Irina is clearly so talented. Hopefully she will realize she doesn't need the fur to make great clothes in the future.


This is probably one of the strongest and most memorable post-PR collection we've seen in a long time. Love the strapless asymmetric feather dress. While I'm not entirely comfortable with the use of fur and exotic feathers for fashion, some of her pieces are amazing. I, too, wondered where the use of Tupperware came in. A simple answer might be that her buttons and closures could be plastics. Or, perhaps jewelry and other accessories seen on her models.


edina


Anonymous said...

Please. Heritage? Like mass exterminations and no heat?


Idiot.


wow - truly impressive. just excellent work, stunning separates, beautiful dresses - great job all around.

i could have done with a touch less owl styling on the girls & im praying for fake fur, but that's splitting hairs over a truly standout collection. congratulations to her for taking her win so far.


Like mass exterminations and no heat?



think he/she was referring to wanton killing and deprivation...least that's how i read it, cuz this is some uber garish display of a whole lot of death and suffering for no reason.


I think the collection as a whole is gorgeous. But all I can see with the fluffy white ear flap hat is "fussy poodle."


Am I the only one who thinks this collection - while beautiful - is a little all over the place? It just seems strange to me to be showing a graphic skintight cocktail number and t-shirts paired with cozy knitwear alongside dramatic feathered dresses. The abrubt change in silhouette toward the end of the collection struck me as odd. Its obvious that the clothes were beautifully made and that Irina truely paid attention to detail in the creation of this collection, however I wish she chose a motif other than feathers that wasnt so overwhelming. The prints seem to almost smother the true beauty of some of the jackets. I believe the feathers would have been more sucessful had she used the print in moderation. All in all Irina created a 'pretty', if not a little dissapointing, collection deserving of her title.

Connor


Irina was a plagiarizing wench, but a wench with talent. And her (non) use of color limits my interest in her.

There is some really beautiful design here, though.

As for fur--I wear leather and I can deal with fur as long as it's farmed. I don't know that wearing fake stuff made from petroleum distillates is really better for the planet and fur in truly cold climates (like Russia's) has insulation properties the fake stuff lacks. (same way wool sweaters are way warmer than anything acrylic.)

Feathers, again, if they're farmed--and I know there are stringent federal laws against using even molted feathers from many wild birds.


oh man, I hated Irina on pr, but I had to hand her an excellent finale and this collection is absolutely gorgeous and cohesive. well played, congrats girl, you have real talent!


I think this is a beautiful collection. My only criticism is that some of the back wing prints (like on the otherwise gorgeous grey overcoat) remind me of the tattoos the serial killer had in "Red Dragon," the Silence of the Lambs prequel, which makes them a bit frightening for me.


While it is a striking collection, one or two of the pieces made me think it was designed for a character in the second season of Buck Rogers.


It's very beautiful and well done, but I can't help wondering who can afford all the blatant luxe.

And by "afford" I mean both the cost & the display of the cost.

Is there still a market for this? Isn't her timing about three years out of date? Sort of Aspen 2007? Or am I being too US/Euro-centric?

I guess I've been reading too much gloom & doom, but this just doesn't seem very fashionable or modern. Sort of tacky.


And then there is the Alexander McQueen wedding dress goes pheasant-hunting finale gown...


Agree w/Bookie Bookie: TLO have a great Valentines Day.
I LOVE this collection. If only I was a size 2 with a lot of money....oh well...
dmc


Hating on the painted feathers.
Besides that it is a wonderful collection, very dramatic.


I'm interested to know if the posters who are still angery about the screen printed text that Irina used in her final PR collection consider it plagiaizim when a designer uses any printed textiles designed by some other designer, without specifically crediting the person who designed the textile.


I never understood how an image of Coney Island is plagiarism. Who owned the image anyhow? But, I applaud the nod to the controversy by making a new t-shirt. It's become part of her point of view, and she's owning it, even though it doesn't match up with the rest of this collection at all.

She decidedly has a very specific and dramatic point of view, no doubt about it, and that will give her longevity in this business. But yeah, she's sewing herself into a corner by making her first collection so controversial.

And yeah, the painted feathers are TACKY.


Not a single clunker not even a single meh. She is amazing and fresh and with a great POV and ... oh well, make it short - love love love


I can't believe no one else spotted the tupperware in the white dress, 3rd from last - the skirt looks just like my laundry basket.


Those are so clearly pheasant feathers which are plenty available from pheasant farms. Leather is easy enough to come by as bi-product of the meat industry. The only thing I have a problem with is the raising of foxes and mink and other animals solely for their pelts. It's cruel, vain and wasteful. I agree with TLo, hopefully she's gotten it out of her system. If not I know 100 dalmatians that should be scared.


It's definitely unique, but I think Irina has a somewhat lowbrow idea of what luxury is. By the end of the show, all of the fur (either real or fake) and the mountains of feathers just looks tacky. She's the epitome of "too much".


What a gorgeous collection . . . feathery and fantastical . . . dreamy and enveloping. Would love to be swathed in these creatury creations of comfort and elegance.


Wagner was a nazi sympathizer , yet his music is fabulous and still played around the world. Picasso was a horrible womanizer. There are many many examples of creative people posessing of total ass personalities. You have to separate your feelings about the designer from your feelingsl about his or her designs. She did a fantastic job. I hope it's not fur. I am not sure if birds are killed for their feathers since they tend to shed feathers and the birds are not easily replaceable. Still gorgeous.

The painted feathers can get boring if that's all you bought from the collection, but if you buy just one painted feather item, you have a ton of separated to mix and match it with.

Oh and I love the color story.


This collection is fan-freakin-tastic. I LOVE IT.

So much better than her PR finale collection. I want to own over half the garments on that runway. It's stunningly gorgeous, sophisticated, and fun. And that's a difficult mix to achieve.


I want either of those black & blue jackets. She can leave the fur off - real or fake, because it just didn't add to the look of the jacket it was on.


Anonymous 2:21 -

Wagner died a good 50 years before the Nazi's rise to power.

He is a typical example of 19th century European Upper Middle class anti-semitism, but not a Nazi. That said, you make a point, way, way over stated, but a point none the less.


If Irina sourced cruelty free feathers I would love to hear that from her. Unfortunately, virtually all feathers are plucked from the birds while they are alive. Many times, birds are plucked 3-4 times over their short, confined lives.


It does look like she used a laundry basket, and if she did she is even a better designer than I initially gave her credit. This is an ingenious way to use plastic in a way that completely complements her collection. The basket itself looks like a feathered design. She is awesome.


Even though I shrongly disliked her persona on the show, I have to give her props for a gorgeous collection. (But, please let that be fake fur.)


Gorgeous collection!


I am seriously SHOCKED that almost everyone loves this collection! Obviously, it is well-tailored and she certainly has a designers eye, but c'mon! Who is going wear this stuff? You can't tell me that if some celebrity walked the red carpet in one of these getups she wouldn't be panned. The only person I can see one of these Amelia Earhart inspired costumes is Cher during her half-breed days.


This is so much better than her final collection. I also love her inspiration. Thank you for posting it, guys!


Not a fan of Irina the person, either, but damn if this collection didn't leave me going "Want this. And this. And this. And this. ..."

GORGEOUS. Bitch truly has talent.


Paige said...

I am seriously SHOCKED that almost everyone loves this collection! Obviously, it is well-tailored and she certainly has a designers eye, but c'mon! Who is going wear this stuff? You can't tell me that if some celebrity walked the red carpet in one of these getups she wouldn't be panned. The only person I can see one of these Amelia Earhart inspired costumes is Cher during her half-breed days.



These are NOT red carpet clothes. Do your homework, sweetie.


I know I'm not supposed to use this as part of my evaluation of her collection, but who's going to wear this stuff? I've always found her work, on PR and off, to be largely for old ladies. Ugly rich old ladies. I like what she's wearing better than most of her collection.


I was expecting to open this thread and be bored, what with her current penchant for simple butterfly dresses, but this collection is much better than the other 11 collections I've seen from this year's crop of designers (including Christian).


Some of the silhouettes are actually
interesting, but not the ultimate choices she made again and again. All that's missing are dark spray-on tans and cigarettes in holders. Childish, retrograde "luxe."
And agreed: lavish fur is the sine non qua of heartlessness. Feathers are a close second.


Didn't she do these looks on the show a lot? The tacky Aspen look over and over and over and over again?

Sure throw some different colors and voila. A new collection.

Please. I'm so over her.


@Mishi said: “people as a whole spend way too much time and money demonstrating against fur and not nearly enough on other suffering human beings.”
*If that’s your angle, there is plenty to rant about from a purely human perspective. The structure of factory farms causes environmental devastation (leading to “suffering human beings”), terrible working conditions and >100% worker turnover rate among largely illegal immigrants (leading to “suffering human beings”), unbelievable public health problems (leading to “suffering human beings”), and ridiculous waste that certainly doesn’t help the starvation and lack of water in many parts of the developing world (leading to “suffering human beings”). The argument that those advocating for animal rights are less interested in human rights is not only naïve, it is patently false.


Beautiful sophisticated and wearable. But I wish the fashion industry would get past its obsession with fur and feathers. The ethical questioning of fur seems to have passed otherwise civilized people by.


Love it! You go, Anastasia. She is certainly shouting down her critics, is she not? I love that it echoes Russian themes without becoming complete costumes. (And let's face it, considering the source material that's quite a feat!)

No one can accuse the girl of not having a clear, recognizable point of view. Best of luck!


This is a really nice collection. The only look I don't like is the dress made out of white feathers with black gloves and leggings. It looks a little cheap to me. I liked her during season 6 and I'm glad she has proven she was indeed the absolute best in that group.

Fiferstone said...
"...she's using the same color palette and the same textures as she used not only in her final PR collection, but throughout that unfortunate season. What's different here? What's so great here? Knitwear, feathers, fur, printed jersey. I've seen it all before."

Consider that althought she did use many of these techniques in her PR collection the two collections are very different from one another. That's the mark of a truly intelligent and creative mind. Her work has distinct qualities but she's not recycling the same look; she's moving on to different artistic concerns, inspirations and motifs.

Sewing Siren said...
"I'm interested to know if the posters who are still angery about the screen printed text that Irina used in her final PR collection consider it plagiaizim when a designer uses any printed textiles designed by some other designer, without specifically crediting the person who designed the textile."

[Intelligent women are so sexy. Do you have a boyfriend?]

I really think that arguing over the whole Shirt-gate thing is tiresome. Nobody knows exactly what went on and even if it was plagiarism I think it was on a very technical level. She referenced another person's property in her work, but what she was presenting herself was her original creation. She was in a fashion competition not a writing competition.

We don't know if she credited the writer or not, we don't know if she used the whole article or not, we don't know if she told the production or if the owners of the material were ok with it or not (although since nothing happened it's reasonable to assume they were). On top of that it doesn't really take away from the creativity of her work or the validity of her win. So really, is anyone ever going to get anywhere arguing any side of this? At the end of the day it comes down to whether you think she's enough of a bitch or not and that's a purely personal matter that has no business popping up in a discussion that has to do with her work.

HLB


As I said the previous days, I found that the Bryant Park collections of the PR Season 7 contestants were, on the whole, outstanding in their quality for such a big number of shows. But that I wasn't sure any of the shows stood up to Irina's last year, which to me is perhaps the best finale collection in PR history. This collection confirms this impression.


- Don

As to the sponsorship, it's a nsimply sign that she has a chance of maybe making it work in this world.


I dunno, I just can't get into it. It's definitely pretty and there's a lot of pieces I'd love to wear, but it isn't really exciting or innovative in any way.


Why would it be fake? She's never made a secret of having worked a lot with fur. The fact that fur coats exist is proof that there are designers working with fur. I very much respect those again the use of animal skin in fashion, but I haven't seen much criticism here of collections using leather heavily, so I don't really get what is this about...


@Mishi said: “people as a whole spend way too much time and money demonstrating against fur and not nearly enough on other suffering human beings.”
*If that’s your angle, there is plenty to rant about from a purely human perspective. The structure of factory farms causes environmental devastation (leading to “suffering human beings”), terrible working conditions and >100% worker turnover rate among largely illegal immigrants (leading to “suffering human beings”), unbelievable public health problems (leading to “suffering human beings”), and ridiculous waste that certainly doesn’t help the starvation and lack of water in many parts of the developing world (leading to “suffering human beings”). The argument that those advocating for animal rights are less interested in human rights is not only naïve, it is patently false.


Anti-fur lobbyist groups and groups like PETA aren't concerned with the humans involved in the fight for "those who can't speak for themselves." I've found almost every animal advocate I've spoken with is a hypocrite. Whether it's because they eat meat that isn't free-range, wear leather or any other animal products, or use any animal biproducts that have been produced by so-called "animal cruelty." Many people get involved with charities that support pro-animal rights because it's fashionable or because it's easier to support charities that show results (as pro-animal charities often do). I won't argue that the fur industry is good by anyone's standards. The problems you pointed out all do indeed exist, but that's not why most people get involved in animal rights. If I'm going to give money to charity, which I do, or advocate for rights, which I do as well, it's going to be for human rights. I'm going to give money to Haiti or Katrina or Darfur and I'm going to work with advocacy groups that advocate for a decent living wage in countries that don't have them or support woman's rights movements in countries where women are tortured for being raped because the rape means they've had extramarital sex. Those are the groups I give my time and money and support to. Fur farms may be bad, they are by no means good, but I have no interest in engaging in that particular socio-political debate.

Anyway, this is way off-topic from Irina's collection. Sorry for the tangent.


This is beautiful and dramatic. I found her completely annoying when she was on the show but I can separate the personality from the design. She, apparently is heavily influenced by her heritage and really-who cares? I just want to see gorgeous clothes. I'm stuck with "wearable" every day. I want to see fantasy. I want that "oooh" factor and this has that. Good for her working with Tupperware. Any girl who has been on a limited budget and wanted creative clothes knows that you find materials and inspiration in what is around you.

To pick up off of Mishi's comment. There is a lot of human suffering that deserves more emotional feeling than fur. I don't care for the use of fur but I worry more about the conditions of the workers from countries like China, Sri Lanka, Columbia and etc. that are on the labels of my clothes.

I'm with GT; this is the best first post-PR collection as far as I can remember. It's my fave.


These clothes are so gorgeous and rich, I want them! Especially the last dress <3


Wow..... I am totally blown away. This is a SPECTACULAR collection. WANT that grey coat with the shawl collar and the wings on the back. This is BY FAR the best collection I've seen from a PR designer, and I was far from convinced she should have won last season. Totally original, yet wearable and gorgeous! LOVE.


I guess I don't like birds and feathers enough to appreciate this collection....


Beautiful collection! However, the overuse of the feathers on the coats gets a bit repetitious. But I love love love the white feathers on the black dresses.


I'll just make this short point. The problem with fur is that it legitimizes the use of animal parts for fashion. Many animals around the world are on the brink of extinction because of perceived benefits and desires, particularly related to human vanity.

I don't feel comfortable with the meat industry, eggs, leather, etc. but these are domestic animals, associated with farms.

We should not accept using exotic animals for clothing, aphrodisiacs or whatever. If this mentality is ingrained across the world, perhaps many endangered species could thrive again.

This isn't about animal cruelty (even if it is cruel), it's about creating a market and desire for exotic animal parts, whether farmed or not.


That's ridiculous, just go the PETA website and see what they do to get leather out of cattle in India and China... Why is rabbit fur from rabbit farms a problem and leather taken from live cows not!? That doesn't make any sense, there is no "moral" explanation to it. Mink is also farmed and in no danger of extinction...


I think it's possible to loathe cruelty and suffering for people and animals at the same time. They're not antithetical.

Hopefully Irina's disdain for her fellow competitors doesn't reflect an indifference for the source of her materials.


Frair John,

I don't feel so bad now. I too thought Buck Rogers when I saw the pictures.


Anon 3:40

You don't get it. If you create a market for something, people will obtain it unlawfully and unethically. Should we raise elephants for ivory? No. Because then poachers would be even more motivated to hunt rhinos and elephants.


This is really amazing -- you can clearly see where it's a sort of "cousin" to her finale collection, but it's so much bolder and visually it just pops. I love that camel color.


@Mishi, 2/14/10 3:16 PM and 2/14/10 1:42 PM
I’m going to have to respectfully respond and disagree. To quote you again, “people as a whole spend way too much time and money demonstrating against fur and not nearly enough on other suffering human beings.” I actually think the problem is that people as a whole often choose not to get involved, period. All of the groups you support are admirable groups to support. For the record, I also support the exact same types of charities. I wish I could do more. However, I don’t think bashing people who choose to get involved in animal rights is effective (i.e, calling them “hypocrites” or saying they only do it because “it’s fashionable” or “easier”). I would never think to put down you or others who support human rights, so I have difficulty understanding why it is so common for people to put down those who support the rights of animals. I’m not saying that animals and human rights issues are equivalent, but many individuals choose to support animal rights for the exact same reasons that you cite for the importance (which I agree with) of supporting the groups that you advocate for. Because it is INCREDIBLY critical to stand up for those who are most vulnerable to exploitation and abuse. Finally, in terms of being “easy,” I again respectfully disagree. There is nothing particularly easy about standing up for an issue that so many people ridicule, or consistently not being able to eat/consume/etc. the “commodities” so many others take for granted because of the factual (*not* “so-called”) animal cruelty. No quotes needed there.


While it is a striking collection, one or two of the pieces made me think it was designed for a character in the second season of Buck Rogers.

With all of those ridiculous feathers, I think she was for Duck Dodgers!


Totally agreed. I wasn't blown away by her clothes on PR and I didn't want to like this collection, but it won me over. I'm seriously impressed and actually excited about seeing what she'll come up with in the future, which I did not think I'd be saying. Excellent, beautiful work.


I was a critic, completely disagreed with her PR win. I am eating my words because I want--no, I NEED every piece in that collection.


@Elise, I didn't mean to belittle your support of animal rights. I agree that there's a collective action problem in this country and that people getting involved at all is important and if we can't agree on the charities we support, we can definitely agree on that. :) I also would like to say I only put quotes around "so-called" because I believe the people who complain of animal cruelty but then partake in its spoils don't have any legs to stand on. I do know there is a great deal of animal cruelty in the world, especially in the farming and fur industries. Agree to disagree, it is!


I really don't understand all the love here. I guess I'm in the minority, but I just find this collection meh.

I think my main problem is that she took (with an exception of one or two pieces) something boring and tried to use animals to mask it as something interesting.


Mishi, Thanks for the response.
I will agree to disagree :)


Anti-fur and feather people: how do you feel about leather?


You know, this is a beautiful collection, but I just cannot get onboard with the idea that Irina is right to throw a "fuck you" at people who objected to her use of other people's copyrighted words in her designs without getting permission.

Unless, I guess, she's also saying that it's okay for people to knock off her designs and sell them without giving her credit or a share of the profits.


"Mishi said: Anti-fur lobbyist groups and groups like PETA aren't concerned with the humans involved in the fight for "those who can't speak for themselves." I've found almost every animal advocate I've spoken with is a hypocrite."




Not to mention that PETA does nothing whatsoever to benefit animals. PETA spends virtually all the money it raises on publicity (disinformation) campaigns & publicity stunts, and nothing at all on any programs that benefit or care for animals. They're just publicity whores. And their staffers have been prosecuted for animal cruelty and dumping of the animal carcasses that they have killed.

And in their quest to achieve their true goal (getting as much publicity as possible) they, in actuality, attack groups who in reality, actually DO do positive things for animals.

--GothamTomato


@GothamTomato: They also yelled at Obama for swatting a fly in a CNBC interview. PETA's a joke. Half the people in their "I'd rather go naked than wear fur" campaigns wear fur and leather, some on a regular basis. I agree with the assessment that they are purely publicity whores.

(link to article about PETA yelling at obama for swatting a fly, just in case you don't believe me: http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSTRE55H4Z220090618)


Irina's exuberance brings to mind one of Russia's most successful designers--Alena Akhmadullina, who used not just fur but human hair in her f/w 2009 line. To date, no one's accused her of beheading to obtain the hair. Like Irina, her palette's a brooding one. If anyone's interested, you can view the line at http://alenaakhmadullina.com/collections/autumn-winter-2010


I loved this collection. After reviewing her website, and the prices, I guess I will have to admire it online.


I just think that designers should phase out fur from their work. It might seem hypocritical to say this and wear leather shoes. But cattle are in no danger of extinction. Many animals are unlawfully hunted for their pelts.

Much of the fashion industry glamorizes fur. I think they should take a stand and not use fur to set an example. I theoretically don't have a problem with farm raised fur, but given its distinctive look, and abuse throughout the world, I believe we'd be better off without using fur.

How we treat farm animals is another worthy debate, but that has nothing to do with decimating animal species.


"Scott said: I never understood how an image of Coney Island is plagiarism. Who owned the image anyhow?"




The use of the image of Coney Island was not plagiarism: It was just unauthorized commercial usage of private property. In the same way it would be if someone took a photograph of your house and used it in an advertisement without getting you to sign a release. It is understandable though, how someone could assume that a landmark like Coney Island is public domain. But that's why you have to always check these things (and it's not to say she wouldn't have if those shirts were truly considered to be 'commercial'. She could have easily made that mistake by thinking like a student and not like a professional.)

The plagiarism some refer too is the usage of the quotes from a NYMagazine story on the tshirts. The shirts were never sold commercially, and the reality was that the words themselves, on the shirts, didn't affect the design in any significant way.

I do place part of the blame for lack of understanding of intellectual property rights on the lax treatment of the subject in virtually all art schools - which leads too many young artists to not only rip off others, but also to be ripe for being ripped off themselves because they do not understand the value of intellectual property (whether their own or any one else's). And many universities are actually behind the drive to weaken copyright protections for visual artists. That's not to say that Irina is absolved from responsibility; just that no school should be graduating students without giving them this most basic of business tool.

--GothamTomato


Not just fur and feathers, but lots of skins, right? Looks like it, anyway. I find all that deplorable. If I leave it aside and look at it from a design standpoint only. . . it's a gorgeous collection.


BeccaGo-I am actually anti leather as well.


@Mishi and GothamTomato – I’m taking the bait and then I’m done!

Like most not-for-profit and/or charity groups, PETA certainly has flaws. But to say PETA is “purely publicity whores” or that “PETA does nothing whatsoever to benefit animals “ is absurd.

Check it out: http://www.peta.org/about/victories.asp
(click on the "read more victories" links, too, if you're interested)


1. She looks better than she did
on PR.

2. They didn't like Chris March
using human hair--and yet
nary a creature died.

3. I'm still thinking Gordana
would have given her a run
for her money.

4. I guess this is in the same
category as "if you have to
ask you can't afford it"--but
where in the heck do you
store these clothes?


Wow, this certainly is a spectacular collection! She should put herself on the map and put to rest any controversy about last season. Especially the Gordana issue: bless her heart, she doesn't have a collection of this level in her, though she is quite talented.

I abhor the use of fur and feathers as well, but it is not at the scale of the abuses of the meat industry (which is also where leather comes from), IMO. Irina is all about the fur, anyhow.

Chris March's human hair stuff was derided because it was UGLY.


"Elise said: Like most not-for-profit and/or charity groups, PETA certainly has flaws."



The problems with PETA are not just flaws; They spend virtually none of the money they collect on any program services for animals. And yet they attack (for publicity) other groups who DO spend money on program services for animals, (while their own staffers slaughter animals).

I wouldn't say that's a flaw. I'd say that's fraud.

--GothamTomato


Looks like Irina wasn't plucking birds. Found this at rack.com:
Interestingly, the show was "Presented by Tupperware," so the gift bags, cute vinyl totes printed with Irina's wing logo, were filled with an assortment of Tupperware and beauty products. Tupperware wasn't only the sponsor of the show, however, some of the feathers on Irina's designs as well as the models' jewelry were also made out of their plastic.


Absolutely F.I.E.R.C.E!


I'm anti-leather, anti-fur, anti-feathers, anti-animal abuse, and extremely anti-human abuse. And no, I don't eat meat or animal by-products. And I know plenty of people with similar standards.

People who are anti-fur & feathers, but love leather and eat meat fascinate me. It seems terribly hypocritical... They all involve killing and abusing animals for our selfish desires. We don't *need* any of those products as a general rule (under developed countries that don't have the same money and resources available are a different story), we're just used to them, and we like them.

That aside, this collection is still stunning. ::shrug:: My morals haven't affected my eyesight.


Gotham Tomato @ 2/14/10, 4:43pm
“The problems with PETA are not just flaws; They spend virtually none of the money they collect on any program services for animals. And yet they attack (for publicity) other groups who DO spend money on program services for animals, (while their own staffers slaughter animals).”
-Do you have data on this and/or articles? I’m honestly very curious. I don’t know a ton about PETA, but from the link I found and sent to you, it would appear that they’ve done a great deal for animal welfare.


While there are a few things I like, (the last 3 dresses are pretty fantastic and hello Kalyn!) I find the feathers and wings on everything to be WAY too literal and overdone. I don't like it.


I dunno, it gives a whole new meaning to "Fly girl" with all the feathers. I like the fur touches, real or not. It does pull from her heritage. And I did like the graphic tee. Nothing really grabbed me and made me want to buy from this collection, but it does make me interested to see what she comes up with next.


Gorgeous. Love it. The full feathered skirts are reminiscent of McQueen, but bear enough of Irina to feel more like a slightly inspired-by personal interpretation than plagiarism (not to mention names of any former contestants, but for future contestants' reference: this is how it's fucking done). It's lovely, and the detailing is fab. I just love it.

As a hat collector, I covet Irina's hats, though I have enough furry hats - I want one of the felt caps from her winning PR collection, dammit! Are those ever going to be sold somewhere?

The one "clunk" in the collection, for me, is the t-shirt with the watches. I see it and I think, "What? Where did that come from?" Everything else works - the handwriting echoes the lightness of the feathers, but the watches? It seemed a little randomly inserted.

Still loved it all, though. Irina's coats are TO DIE.


I guess anytime that Irina's name is evoked the whole plagiarism issue will resurface. It's a pissing match that will go on forever.

It is a polished collection. She is very good at presenting a cohesive look and presenting each piece to its full advantage.

What I dislike in her collection is the "first thought" use of the feathers. What she has done with the motif of "flight" lacks subtlety. The idea of flight and liberation surely could be translated into a less obvious and overused symbol than feathers, or wings. She is expressing her inspiration/theme in a "too literal" way. She doesn't translate her idea into the language of her art (fabric, color, texture, pattern, construction, silhouette, etc.).

Although, maybe her idea of "the fantasy of flight" and "liberation" is simply being rich and swathed in luxury.


I'm going to venture a guess that the furs are fake. Given the emotional quotient inherent in the anti-fur movement, it wouldn't make sense for Tupperware--a publicly traded company that must answer to its shareholders--to condone the use of real fur so long as its footing the bill.


Yes, they are pheasant feathers, which do not rely on killing the bird to accumulate, any more than peacock's feathers do. For heaven's sake, the use of such feathers is as "green" as you can get. I don't mind the use of fur, but that's just me.

Aside from that, the collection is beautifully made, with impeccable tailoring, and that, to me, is the most important thing. I'm so sick of deconstructed and flimsy little rags being passed off as high fashion. This is a refreshing return to truly haute couture.


Whew! Irina saved us just in time with her Winter Olympic collection.


Clueless Jock

Wow. Beathtaking. Very sexy in a rather cold, sinister way. There's nothing angelic about those feathers, and I mean that as a compliment.


I like the color palette, cuts and "feel" of the clothes, so kudos.

That said, I liked the feather motif more when it less literal. In some looks, for me, it looked a little costume. It worked better when more subtly dealt with (eg the second last outfit) and the graphic black and white dress with the black fur hat.


I am not an Irina fan, but her collection is very impressive. However I do find some of it over the top.

I wonder if any of the fabrics she used are plastic derivatives and that is the tie to Tupperware. In the TLo interview, didn't WesFeld make reference to "plastic cloth" when they won the plastics design competition?

I don't usually like to go political, but I don't appreciate the "human rights" holier-than-thou perspective. People should be shephards of the earth and everyone has the right to prioritize the causes they want to support. I am by no means an extremist, but animals need protection just as much as humans. I do a lot of work with stray animals, but I also contribute to human causes. It's just not an either/or situation.

I find the fur and feathers offensive, but I would never throw paint on anyone's coat. People have to make their own decisions. Hopefully through education, they will become more aware and choose not to wear fur, eat animal parts for virility, encroach on habitats, etc.

O.K. - I relinquish the podium.

Happy Valentines Day to all!

Polly Glot


Why did she use watches? Maybe it's because time flies.


I love the tailoring in the jackets and pants. Can't get behind the feathers, real or printed. So much of this just looks over the top a la eighties excess and to me Irina will always be the "meana" girl of Season 6.


I don't really have a very structured opinion of the whole fur thing but I do have a few thoughts:

I would never wrap myself with a dead animal and I don't wear leather because it makes me look silly. However I don't have a problem with animal resources being used in clothing.

If you're talking cruelty the food industry kills many more animals every day and subjects them to worse conditions. It can be very reasonably argued that the food industry satisfies a valid necessity, however there is a lot of waste and a big part of the demand for animal food products originates from out of control consumption habits. So I think it's the same thing: lots of animals suffering and dying for no good reason. Therefore there is some hypocrisy in animal rights activist who call you all sorts of things for not caring about furs but they themselves don't have a problem with their support of an industry that causes much greater impacts. This has happened to me.

Also, I don't think the extinction of a species is such a serious problem. Most of the animals that play a truly crucial role in environmental equilibrium (like bees) are very numerous and will likely never become extinct. Most others play a role that can be easily fulfilled by other species. There have been several extinction events in the history of the planet with extinction percentages being as high as 50% of terrestrial species and 96% of marine species. If foxes or minks were to disappear suddenly I can't imagine that anything serious would really happen. I'm not sayings that it wouldn't suck but I don't think it's such a big deal. I've met a lot of people who think that the exctintion of anything would bring about an evironmental cataclism and I think that's due to misinformation (as GothamTomato said) from irresponsible animal rights or environmental groups (I really dislike Greenpeace).

HLB


As others have said too literal. Does anyone else besides me find the continuous use of feathers a bit gimmicky?


Simply luminous. There isn't a single piece I wouldn't buy. The point of view is incredible; striking & individualistic. Meana is THE designer on the rise & the 1 to watch. Even more than C. Siriano.


This is a beautiful collection. I'd really like to know more about the use of Tupperware materials!

For me, the wing patterns are big "Wow"s the first few times, then a little tiresome as they continue on and on... but that's a minor complaint as I honestly think it's a strong collection over all.


This collection is full of costumes for a ballet/opera/musical. It is NOT pret-a-porter.

If she is in the USA, HOW is she getting away with using real fur and feathers? In this country, we love our critters and highly frown upon using such animal products.


bitchybitchybitchy

Irina showed some beautiful pieces in this colleciton.

I would hope that she moves away from the fur and feathers. There are so many other materials available to designers.


according to this article it's fur not faux fur

http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/project-runway-winner-irina-shabayeva-debuts-fall-2010-collection-at-mercedes-benz-fashion-week-in-new-york-city-83435522.html


I admit to not liking Irina on a personal level. I like even less the common defense that she's only called a bitch because she's a strong woman. I've never found anything particularly strong about her, other than having an overbearing personality. And like some here, I do consider her What I Love About New York shirt to be blatant plagiarism (and considering the magazine was perplexed by her use of their words on her shirt, no, she did not get permission). I can excuse it as a rookie mistake, but highlighting the issue in this collection as a sort of f-you to her critics is arrogant. She was in the wrong, and if she thinks she was unfairly treated in the situation, then she has little understanding of why people were in such an uproar. She's not admiting any accountablity in the situation, even to admit it was a mistake--she's playing the victim, even though the only thing that happened was people were upset. Childish. And yes, people will talk about this forever. But also, we are talking about the plagiarism issue here because she's brought it up in her collection.

But OK, while I dislike her, there many artists whose work I enjoy but who personally grate on my nerves. I can separate the artist from the art in most cases.

So, personal dislike aside, I find this collection to be immature. As someone else noted, it's very literal. And it hits the same notes over and over--wings, feathers, fur fur fur. Some of it is beautiful, I admit. But it's too too. It's all show pieces, one after another, each over the top and trying too hard. The prints are overdone and overwhelming. The dresses made of feathers make me feel itchy just looking at them. And it looks like she said, OK a little fur is a great accent, so a LOT of fur must be even better!

This collection shouts, and not in a distinctive or creative way. It's all about making a statement, but I don't think it's saying much.

Eh. I do see potential in Irina, but I'm not impressed with this noisy collection.


"Handmade with duck feathers, silk and, of course, Tupperware, tutu silhouettes were perfectly offset by Slavic-style fox fur wraps and headpieces."

http://blogs.columbiaspectator.com/spectacle/2010/02/14/irina-shabayeva-fall-2010/


Tippi Hedren meets Julie Christie!!


I agree with VeryNot's thoughts about the collection.

Perhaps if it had more dramatic staging, it wouldn't look so costumey. Imagine a stark black backdrop, instead of the insipid, generic blue in the photos.

All in all, I thought this was heaps better than her (tacky) spring-summer butterfly-dress collection. She's definitely a fall/winter designer.

(And her personality has nothing to do with her aesthetic... if anything, I admire her determination and bravado :)


I agree with VeryNot's thoughts about the collection.

Perhaps if it had more dramatic staging, it wouldn't look so costumey. Imagine a stark black backdrop, instead of the insipid, generic blue in the photos.

All in all, I thought this was heaps better than her (tacky) spring-summer butterfly-dress collection. She's definitely a fall/winter designer.

(And her personality has nothing to do with her aesthetic... if anything, I admire her determination and bravado :)


I don't think the extinction of a species is such a serious problem. Most of the animals that play a truly crucial role in environmental equilibrium (like bees) are very numerous and will likely never become extinct. Most others play a role that can be easily fulfilled by other species. There have been several extinction events in the history of the planet with extinction percentages being as high as 50% of terrestrial species and 96% of marine species. If foxes or minks were to disappear suddenly I can't imagine that anything serious would really happen. I'm not sayings that it wouldn't suck but I don't think it's such a big deal. I've met a lot of people who think that the exctintion of anything would bring about an evironmental cataclism and I think that's due to misinformation (as GothamTomato said) from irresponsible animal rights or environmental groups (I really dislike Greenpeace).

HLB




HLB, I would like to refute your comment point by point, but it is so over-the-top in its obtuseness and ignorance that I can only applaud it as a first rate example of Stephen Colbert-esque satire.

The bees were a good touch.


I was very impressed with this collection. Good for Irina putting forth a collection like this after her insane season of PR.

In a way I feel bad for all 4 of the top designers of last season. You know there will always be those that want to downplay their success by saying it was lack of Nina/Micheal that allowed them to be where they are. I may not have liked the Irina portrayed on tv, but I can admit I knew that her collection was a winner before I knew it was hers.

Nice work Irina, I hope to see more of you.


I would love to see a major retailer commission a line of wool coats from her with the same lining as that first coat. That could be a great signature for her, like the red soles of a Louboutin. I want a Shabayeva coat NOW.


"Elise said: I don’t know a ton about PETA, but from the link I found and sent to you, it would appear that they’ve done a great deal for animal welfare."




Yeah, a link from Peta would make it seem so but it's not true. There are MANY articles from reliable sources that have documented the opposite. But if you want a great overview of Peta and its antics, look for the clip from Penn & Teller's 'Bullshit', where they did an investigative piece on Peta.

--GothamTomato


She seems to be the best of the best of PR - better by far than Siriano, this season at least.

-Anon1


"SusanID said: I've met a lot of people who think that the exctintion of anything would bring about an evironmental cataclism and I think that's due to misinformation (as GothamTomato said) from irresponsible animal rights or environmental groups"




I don't agree with this at all. I think extinction is a very serious problem. And there are serious problems with animal cruelty in various industries.

What I'm saying is that PETA does virtually nothing about this. They are just opportunists clouding the issues and making it more difficult for the organizations who are doing the real work of animal welfare and conservation. Peta is like FoxNews: All bull.

--GothamTomato


It looks like a flock of beautiful birds got sucked into a jet engine and came out the other end on a runway.

Too costume, too Cher (in a bad way), too much.


It's sad that PETA is the face of animal rights. There are so many worthy groups out there doing real work and not getting the press PETA gets. It's no wonder people who don't know better think anyone who is interested in animal rights is a phony zealot.


GothamTomato said...
"SusanID said: I've met a lot of people who think that the exctintion of anything would bring about an evironmental cataclism and I think that's due to misinformation (as GothamTomato said) from irresponsible animal rights or environmental groups"





Gotham, I am quoting HLB. What I said follows:


HLB, I would like to refute your comment point by point, but it is so over-the-top in its obtuseness and ignorance that I can only applaud it as a first rate example of Stephen Colbert-esque satire.

The bees were a good touch.



Sorry for the confusion. I should have labeled HLB's comment better.


Heidi said, If she is in the USA, HOW is she getting away with using real fur and feathers? In this country, we love our critters and highly frown upon using such animal products.

Have you set foot in a department store lately?

Here in the USA, many of us love our fur and feathers, and have no difficulty at all using them, as well as other animal products such as leather and silk. And, fortunately, there are plenty of merchants who happily accommodate us.


I don't understand why Tlo is lauding the "Fuck You" to those that thought Irina plagiarized.

If she didn't do it, why would she need to send a fuck you? Why not just rise above it as most PR fans have, and as every one of her fans have suggested she always did, by claiming she didn't know what she was doing, or that in no way she did it, or that what she did didn't matter. I remember now, that when asked about it long ago, she performed a verbal shuffle that made no sense.

But, I admit, after all this time, I'd really forgotten about the whole thing until she brought it up in her collection above and TLo brought it up (with the praising of her hating on people who questioned her ethics long ago) again with the Fuck You, if indeed that is what that is. I just don't get it. Why did she, or TLo, have to write anything about it at all? She's clearly talented and possibly ethically challenged. So what? Why depict her as admirable, or as some kind of righteous survivor of some brutal and noble fight? To provoke people into depicting her as otherwise? She's got the goods, why bring it up AGAIN??


Anonymous said...
Anon 3:40

You don't get it. If you create a market for something, people will obtain it unlawfully and unethically. Should we raise elephants for ivory? No. Because then poachers would be even more motivated to hunt rhinos and elephants.

Yes, I do get it. For example, I wear rabbit fur, I have a rabbit hat, and a rabbit coat. Why would you have ground to feel morally superior because you wear leather shoes? Rabits and sheep have been domesticated probably the same length of time, and rabbits are perhaps the mammal less likely to ever disappear from the face of earth...

Also, maybe mink and foxes are exotic to you, they are certainly not exotic animals in their natural environment. They are in no risk of extinction, and in some places they are now actually what is considered a pest. So how are your handbags, perhaps made from cows in India which have been treated to spectacularly cruel conditions (any cheap leather is dubious) any better than the fox hats wore since centuries by women in Russia?

Leopard, say, is another thing, but wearing rabbit doesn't make you guiltier of leopard extinction than wearing Ugg boots.

But it's much easier to simplify everything into: fur is BAD, leather is okay, and refuse to get any information that could challenge such an easy (and convenient, Chinese leather is much cheaper than fur after all...) maxim. I think you, don't get it.


And just to be completely clear - I also believe extinction is a serious problem. We (humans) wouldn't make it through a massive extinction event unscathed any more than we would make it through a massive volcanic eruption, hurricane, etc. unscathed.


She is amazing! I love every single piece in this collection! EVERY ONE! I don't care what you say about her season she was always one of the top designers in PR history to me and I thought her finale show despite all the black was excellent and never doubted her win. Go 'head Miss Irina!!


I REALLY hope that is fake fur. After all, she is using plastic. Assuming no animals were killed in the making of it, I love the entire collection barring some of the hats which were a little too Cossack for me.


While I, too, am hoping that the fur (and feathers) are animal-friendly, I congratulate Irina. A gorgeous and WEARABLE collection!


I love this. She's got a clear picture of the woman for whom she's designing: Johnny Wier.


I don't like the feather prints (except in the blue version). All I kept thinking as I looked at this was that Bjork would love it.


@Gotham Tomato – I just watched the P&T clip, and wow, talk about fraud. P&T clearly have an agenda here. Repeatedly making straw man arguments like, “are chickens REALLY as important as PEOPLE??” does not count as good investigative journalism in my book. And I can’t believe they would show some of the awful footage of animal abuse & then say, essentially, “oh but the Federal Animal Welfare Act protects against this – so don’t worry!!!" Anyone who thinks the USDA or FAWA is adequately protecting animals on factory farms is delusional.

Again, I don’t know much about PETA, but to quote J Safran Foer’s brilliant book, Eating Animals, “Whatever one thinks of them, no organization strikes fear in the factory farm industry and its allies more than PETA. They are effective.” He then goes on to give lots of examples. And this is also a great quote by Steve Kopperud (a meat industry consultant/anti-PETA advocate): “There’s enough understanding in the industry now of what PETA’s capable of to put the fear of God into many executives.” That’s an organization I will get behind any day.

As with Mishi, I’m just going to agree to disagree on this one.


SewingSiren: [Is it] plagiarism when a designer uses any printed textiles designed by some other designer, without specifically crediting the person who designed the textile[?]

No, although I do think they should note who designed the fabric. But here's why it's not plagiarism: the designer of the textile created that fabric to be used in a garment, accessory, window treatment, upholstery, or what-have-you. The textile does not exist as a piece of art independent of anything else (although I've seen prints pretty enough to frame). It's like saying the authors of the Declaration of Independence committed plagiarism when they wrote it out on parchments produced by their local paper-maker... which would be absurd.

FWIW, I'm not angry at Irina over the plagiarism thing -- it's not worth getting angry about. I think she is ethically challenged on this point. There's no question she copied the text without permission and never made attribution, NYMag wrote it up and everything. The whole thing blew over and she won the season anyway. It amounted to a tempest in a teapot that was soon forgotten. That's why I question her judgment in bringing it up again, and I called TLo on their use of the "quote-unquote" construct.

I'm not likely to ever be in the market for Irina's clothes, but that not-so-subtle FU isn't good business sense. Some of her potential clients might actually care about it.


Tupp's other connection with the show is BeautiControl, their North American Makeup division. BC was the make up used back stage at the show - our VP of R&D was there and said it was FAB!


I'm not likely to ever be in the market for Irina's clothes, but that not-so-subtle FU isn't good business sense. Some of her potential clients might actually care about it.

Outside of this blog, very few people are going to notice or care.


This collection is lovely, though not very exciting to me. Irina does outerwear incredibly well, doesn't she? Her extremely narrow color palettes are bit boring.


I think the quotes around plagiarism refer to the VAST overreaction that occurred. Corporations in this country regularly violated each other's copyrights and patents and all that happens is that they have to pay royalties. The way people reacted to what Irina did, you'd think she should be serving time in Federal prison. I'm not legally qualified to say whether she plagiarized or not (besides, it's an academic term, not a legal one, and "plagiarism" is not illegal; it would actually be copyright infringement), but Martin Luther King, Jr. plagiarized other writers when he was in college, much of the plot of the film "Coming to America" was plagiarized from Art Buchwald, etc., etc.

I'm sure most writers/publications would have been happy with an attribution. That, or a tiny percentage of the sales of the t-shirts.


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