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Givenchy Spring 2010 Haute Couture

Luxury, darlings.

FWD:

"Ricardo Tisci, Givenchy's current couturier, staged the Spring 2010 collection in the same grand ballroom, where so many YSL shows were held. Likewise, the images of this show recalled the legendary 1976 Carmen collection by the late Saint Laurent himself.

Nonetheless, the sense of elegant modernism throughout was impressive, from the opening tuxedo pantsuit, delightfully jazzed up at the waist with ostrich, vulture and nandou feathers, to a sublime bolero in similar feathers, this time in powdery hues. Tisci’s fashion is rarely easy to wear, but the sense of catering to a demanding stylistic elite is at times breathtaking.


Every detail was carefully thought out in his show, right down to the trompe l'oeil minimalist off-white booties. Or even before the show - Tisci’s invitations are miniature works or art in themselves. This season, the latest collector’s item was an hallucinogenic image of goddess’s face, back lit curtains and Pop Art squiggles, capturing the exotic mood of this arty fashion moment.


“Beauty, early '70s Paris, erotica and, of course, Serge Lutens,” said Tisci after the show, referring to the French perfumer and filmmaker, who created the makeup and hair for Vogue shoots by photographers as esteemed as Richard Avedon, Bob Richardson and Irving Penn."


We loved this collection. The looks get more and more luxurious and rich until you reach the final look, which is just stunning in its use of texture and color. In fact, the whole collection is so textural that you just want to reach out and touch these garments. In addition, it felt modern and edgy in a way that some of the other couture collections only wished they could be (not Valentino naming Valentino any Valentino names Valentino). Once again, we have to complain a bit about the styling, though. We just hate it when every girl is styled to look exactly alike. We suppose the argument behind it is that you're supposed to look at the clothes but there's a robotic, creepy Stepfordness about it that just grates.


































[Photos: Catwalking.com/WireImage]


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66 comments:

The sheer cloaks are fabulous.

Also, is that first model Nicole Trunfio?


Beautiful to look at except the model's makeup. I really don't like the creepy, zombie look.


I was so hoping you would post this! I thought it was so beautiful, long live glitter jumpsuits!


Are these models supposed to emulate Heath Ledger in The Dark Knight? BECAUSE THEY ARE DOING THAT. And if so, the makeup make much more sense.

http://karthikrm.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/ledger-joker.jpg


I liked almost everything except the lace pantsuit - or is it a jumpsuit? Yes, the eye makeup is weird, but it adds to the edge a bit.


They are gorgeous, for the most part, particularly the final two looks. I could've done without the nipple-baring, though.


F**K anything I can't afford... :(


If I could just get by the retro lampshade headgear and the Beetlejuice eyes, I just might enjoy the collection. I'm going to re-peruse, minus the models from the neck up.


Lovelovelovelovelovelove this collection! Only if I could afford every piece.


yeah! ho! wah!

haha, oh man... i love tlo and agree with most of their pr opinions, but boy do i disagree with their opinions about collections lately. not only did i love valentino, i find givenchys spring couture collection boring and ugly. those colours just look cheap to me, like something a silver-age super-villain would wear.


I don't hate it, but I'm not really loving most of this collection. I like the feathered tops and skirts but that's about it.


Riccardo Tisci is so damn talented and HOT!!!!


that asian girl looks a lot like Daul Kim...


Several of these looks reminded me of something Christian Siriano would make; all of those being my favorite in the collection. HATE that eye make-up though!


LUV the lampshades.


Some of these clothes are incredibly beautiful, but I just can't get past the "Dawn of the Dead" eye makeup and the Lampshade hats! All this money and talent and there is not once decent sytlist in all of Paris?

~K~


That eye makeup reminds me of a tart characterization my mother would make back when I was adolescent and not necessarily deft of hand or restrained with the shadows and liners:

Your eyes look like two burnt holes in a blanket.

My mother knew how to call 'em.

All the best,

NDC


I love, love, LOVE those tuxedo looks with the feathers. THAT is how to use feathers. They look like they belong there. The juxtaposition of textures is simply fabulous. Gorgeous.

And, Oh. My. God. That purple & black look in the 11th row is just beyond stunning. Love it.

To me, the make up, etc distracts from the gorgeous clothes, which is a shame because every second should be spent drinking in these clothes.

--GothamTomato


I hate to say it, but I think I like the Valentino collection better.


Haute couture zombies? Uh, no, Givenchy. Dislike.

(Do they not realize that the bad styling takes away from the clothes more so that a variety of human faces would?)

I know this is a ridiculous complaint at this point, but it'd be nice if designers stopped showing off nipples in their designs. I think this is because I'm sick of seeing them in real life, not just on the runway.

(I hate that first look so very, very much, more so because it almost made me turn away from the rest.)

You're right about the textures, T Lo, though the zombification of the models makes me think that if I tried to touch their clothes, they'd chew off my hand and then eat my brains, and then barf it all up in order to maintain weight.

I know I've seen this jacket on a red carpet somewhere recently, and I think people should be cautioned to be very careful when pairing it up with anything else, as it's a whole lot of look that needs to be styled with care. Channel your inner Tim Gunn, starlets!

I think we've also seen this dress this past weekend, and it is not something that should be worn anywhere but on that runway.

This and this took my breath away. I hope that someone sports one of them on the red carpet, or, even better, at one of the industry functions I have to attend, and styles well. They're fantasy looks that also work as clothes, which means they land in that tiny space in the middle of the Venn Diagram of couture and wearable. This and this, too, should be worn by someone able to pull them off properly, as they are made of glittering fabulosity. (I am loving these blues and greens.)

I can't help but think that that last gown would be more fabulous on a grown woman; a baby-faced zombie is not the right "person" to wear it.


braaaaaaaaaains.

braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaainsssss.


right? i can't get past it.


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Try as hard as designers might to turn nipples into a fashion statment, when real women put these clothes on, they're wearing underwear. And with hi-def cameras, they'll be wearing iron clad undies. Not even Ricardo Tisci could convince Ciara to go commando underneath his creation.


I like a lot of this, especially the vivid colours in the second half, but the first look in the sixth pair of photos is sending a message, and that message is, I AM A VULVA. Could a woman actually wear that? Seriously?


Blade Runner - Pris


WTF is with the lampshades on the heads? Paired with the horrible zombified makeup, these girls look like they devoured every New Year's Eve party and are hungrily stalking for more flesh. Yick.

Looking past that, the colors, the feathers and the drama are beautiful.


mochizuki-senpai: Rihanna wore the beige fluffy jacket at a pre-Grammy party and Ciara wore the long black pierced gown. (see GFY)


Nice and I recognize at least two of the looks from the Grammy red carpet.
Keri Hilson (I think0 wore the furry jacket and Ciara wore the sheer black.


LOVE LOVE LOVE that last dress. GORGEOUS!


the green sequin number is the Spring08 balmain dress in pantsuit form. Only the balmain looked better because Natasha Poly wore it.

those purple gowns are amazing.


NDC said: "Your eyes look like two burnt holes in a blanket." So true! Can we please be finished with that "trend"? Also, I'm not a fan of the peek-a-boob bodices. But hey, that's just me.


I look at this and all I can take away is: Nipples. Lots of them.


Yes, the hair and make up disturb, and Stepford Wives is an apt desription, especially since the one in the off white ghostly frock looks sort of like Katherine Ross.

Don't love everything (esp. toward the end, before the finale) but there's plenty of gorgeousness there.


The feathery tux outfit next to Katherine Ross is GORGE. As are the black widow's weeds above, and the outfit Ciara wore, below left. (Tiny print: even though I still don't know who Ciara is.)


another laura

Oh hey, I love the lampshade hats!

Malachite green, the gorgeous purple gowns. oh boy oh boy, thanks, TLo for this.

I usually don't love extreme makeup but ever since that (in my mind) outstanding McQueen collection of all time with the black/white houndstooth pieces and with the drawn out mouths and weird lips, etc., I've gotten over the heavy makeup (knock on wood), though point well taken about the way it makes all of the women look alike.


no, no, no to the boobies!!

there are a couple of pieces here I like, but overall I much prefer the Valentino collection.


that last one reminds me too much of the recent viktor & rolf collection :/


Not Stepford, darlings. That's Blade Runner meets vampires. Very young Darryl Hannah.


There are pieces in here I really like, but there's some I just really, really don't.

Why isn't "exposed nipples" over yet? Please let it be over soon. It's not even risque anymore, that's how over it is. It's just, "obligatory nipple dress". (Or two.)

I ought to love that last piece theoretically, but the bodice part is so jarringly not like the rest that it falls flat for me. The bottom is astounding, but the top...

Despite the horrible lampshade hat, I love the black lace ruffle dress, though. And the feather-shirt tux is awesome.

I want to like the dress underneath that with the billowy translucent cape, but the bodice kills it for me. It looks like an ill-fitting bra. The second one with the cape, though, I really like.


"Despite the horrible lampshade hat" - I LOVE the white lampshade, well AS A LAMPSHADE.

I love saying this... Wendy Pepper was ahead of her time (I loved that outfit with a proper lining/cami) :o


Since watching Project Runway, lo these many years, I cannot look at runway shows without thinking, "if a PR contestant sent this down the runway, the judges would..." replace the ellipses with your choice of any potential judges reaction.

I think that most of what goes down the runway in these collection shows would be shredded by the judges, which is unfortunate, because it fosters the bland, safe mediocraty that we see in the middle of the pack for most of the season. They only really take chances when they have immunity.

Insipid challenges and petulant judging = boring clothes.

Sewhat?


I reallyu need spellcheck. Is there some way to do it here that I have not figured out ?


Now we're talkin. The blue garments were my favorites.

Loved the styling and makeup. These clothes are ultra-dramatic and called for a face that could stand up to the drama. No one is suggesting either the lampshades or eyeshadow be worn off the runway.

--Itsjustme


LOVE the first half of the collection. Love that bra (is it haute couture, they're not producing it, really?).

I don't see what problem Americans have with exposed breasts? what's the big deal? it doesn't matter whether they are passe or not, designers are not trying to shock, these are European designers showing in Europe, no one blinks an eye... And it's not a question of suggesting the designs should be worn in the street like that (I mean, it's HC, it's not to be worn in the streets, AT ALL). It's all just about the textures, I guess, the transparencies, making the most of the skin, whatever. It's bizarre how many people seem to find this disturbing in the US. Je comprends pas!


mochizuki-senpai said...
"I can't help but think that that last gown would be more fabulous on a grown woman; a baby-faced zombie is not the right "person" to wear it."

That would be Natalia Vodianova. She must be hitting her 30s, if she's not already there. Long-time married and mother of three children, I think she rahter qualifies as a grown woman.
- Don


honesty.not.pc

OMG I want one of those sheer capes! I love this collection, not only do I want to touch it I want to roll around in it infront of a roaring fire :)

I HATE thos weird patterned jump suits though.

Tha make up looks like Pris from bladerunner....and not in a good way.


What a gorgeous collection.


OH MY GOD THAT LAST DRESS

TO

DIE


This is really what you think of when you think of haute couture. Unfortunately, the makeup was so distracting it was at times difficult to focus on the outfits, as beautiful as most of them were.


well, at least everyone here who always wants to see more jewel tones will be happy.
Personally, I think it's a bit of a yawn - having seen Ciara in the cream feathered number, it already looks declasse.


Not a fan of the styling (zombie lamps?), but there are some really gorgeous pieces here. Most of them are purely runway though, so I can easily see some of these landing on various Worst Dressed lists. :/


I'm a fan of the lampshade hat and the nipple!

Mostly love how organic the ruffles and other embellishments look. Effortless.

As we've seen in PR, this sort of "effortless" ain't easy and requires years of experience & skill to pull off.

Chatter recently about the commercial feasibility of haute couture during these times. The French government is stepping in to subsidize some of it, but there's still cutting back & small houses closing (and Lacroix, etc). What a loss.

We need magic!


You guys are the best! Thank you so much for all these kick *ss fashion show posts. They make my day. :)


We've discussed nipples, but has no one mentioned the nipple target? (row 7) I once had a bad Xmas sweater from my mother-in-law that had a giant snowflake on the chest...but I guess a giant nipple is more creative. Great for hetero men who are lost--Grab here!


When Vincent did a lampshade hat we all thought it was stupid. Just sayin'.

LOVE the 11th look down, that blue & black jewel-encrusted jumpsuit. WANTWANTWANTWANTWANT!!


I am witchoo, Gotham Tomato - those feathery tuxes are AMAZING. Swoonerriffic.

Merci!
Shan


I'm not thrilled with the collection, and there is certainly evidence it doesn't translate off the runway. There was an artist who wore two of these looks to the Grammy Awards (one red carpet and one after party) and looked like a complete idiot.


mochizuki-senpai on 2/1/10 at 5:45 PM said....I know this is a ridiculous complaint at this point, but it'd be nice if designers stopped showing off nipples in their designs.

I wonder if Wendy Pepper is laughing herself to death for being years ahead of Haute Couture in showing nipples.

TampaBay


My complaint about jumpsuits is simple, and constant: going to the necessary is a major pain, and I have yet to see a jumpsuit designed to ameliorate that problem.

I love the colors, hate the peek-a-boo first look, but if I had the money to buy one thing, it would probably be that jacket (without the shorts). I love the look of armor that is recreated in the fabric, though I would see about snipping off those wrist ruffles. They just look weird. Maybe a gauntlet cuff......


GOD CAN WE GET OVER THE VAMPIRE BRIDE MAKEUP NOW????

Some beautiful things, others looked like a throwback.


When styling detracts from what you are selling then its a NO NO.

Just once I want to see the clotheshangers walk out with a smile and regular hair and makeup...that would convince me to buy clothes more than this zombie shit.


Anonymous said...

When styling detracts from what you are selling then its a NO NO.

Just once I want to see the clotheshangers walk out with a smile and regular hair and makeup...that would convince me to buy clothes more than this zombie shit.


Honey, people who buy couture don't give a shit about the makeup.


Wendy Pepper is laughing herself to death for being years ahead of Haute Couture in showing nipples?

For God's sake... Yves Saint-Laurent was exposing breasts in the 70s, it had been done before and it hasn't stop since...

And what about having smiling wholesome models in pretty make up convincing people to buy the clothes? Haute-couture!? The names of the women who actually buy HC can be all written in the first page of a pocket Moleskine and they all get private passes.

Hilarious...


Nice to see that Zombie models are still getting work.


What the hell is with the makeup and the lampshade hats? Talk about unfortunately distracting/distractingly unfortunate.





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