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Christian Siriano Fall 2010 Collection

Princess showed his collection yesterday, bitches!


The collection is inspired by 1960’s Parisian women and the idea of getting dressed up from day into evening. Take a look and we'll have our thoughts at the end.

















































Christian has made a couple of comments in the press about scaling back in the current economic situation and this collection looks to be the result of that thinking. On the one hand, he's absolutely right in that a young, relatively unknown and untested designer like himself would have a hard time establishing a brand made up entirely of over-the-top fantasy pieces. On the other hand, we fear that he's toned himself so far down as to be relatively generic. Except for that last pink dress, there's little of the puffy-sleeved exuberance we've come to expect from him. Still, he's clearly maturing as a designer and that's a good thing. So here's a Siriano collection embracing separates. Here are gowns that still have those ruffles we've come to expect, yet have a wearability that he hasn't demonstrated before. All in all, it's a good, but not great collection. It seems to us that everything here is very salable and that was clearly the goal going in. But it also seems to us that it doesn't have that gasp factor that previous work had. Still, he's got a business to run. It's all well and good when you can get starlets to wear your dresses on the red carpet, but if you can't get them on the racks and in the hands of consumers, you might not last long in this economy. A smart approach, if not exactly the most aesthetically risky one.

[Photos: Getty Images/WireImage]



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86 comments:

It's a mature collection, not necessarily showstopping, but beautiful clothing hopefully many will want to wear. Go PPS! =)

I COVET the coat in picture #5. It's gorgeous.


It's not bad but it all seems very Lord & Taylor to me. Maybe that's a good thing.


A lot of draped satin bedsheets at the end there! Did a bordello go out of business?

The day looks were dull.


Love it. I want all of the separates. ALL. OF. THEM.


Maybe it's a good thing it's more generic because I want to buy most of it... and it actually looks like a lot of those clothes would look good on someone who isn't a model?


I covet that last gown, even though I'd have negative a million places to wear it.


He has a good eye for the models. He got a lot of super cute girls to walk for him.
I think it's a good collection. The stand out pieces for me are the black lame cocktail dress with raglan sleeves made of chiffon.
And oddly the blue jersey gown with ruching about the waist and an unusual placed gathering at the set in sleeve.


Having trouble seeing anything but the models' eyebrows.


Good points in your commentary as usual, TLo. Let's get Siriano onto some daily ladies! I can see these looks going mainstream:

1, 3, 4, 5, 7's jacket, 8, 10, 11, 13's skirt, 15, 16, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 30.

I can see young women splurging on many of the shorter dresses for that Magic Date in That Special Place.

Good on you, Princess!


I loved every single piece. I think he has toned down a bit, but it still looks like him, and it's absolutely gorgeous to boot. He's by far the most talented designer ever to appear on PR and I love that he really seems to be making a name for himself -- unlike other PR designers, you rarely hear him mentioned as "PR winner Christian Siriano." LOVE him, LOVE the collection, and would buy every single piece.


I loved his last collection, and I want to like this collection equally much, but I can't. Not that I don't like this collection, I do. But those prints from his spring collection were so divine.

That said, what he lacks in risk, he more than makes up for in fit, tailoring, beauty, style, and taste. It's a very wearable collection and women would look gorgeous in many of those outfits.

He pleased his fans by sending down a few fantasy piece gowns. This makes sense since the starlets are the most likely to wear the gowns and exuberance works. That charcoal gown is simply exquisite. The fuschia gown at the end is gorgeous, but is it too much dress? It would take a confident celebrity to wear that at the oscars. Jessica Alba would look great in that color, but I fear it's too much dress for her.

All in all I agree with your assessment. A safe, but impeccably presented collection. And there's always room for impeccable clothes.


Saleable is the word that came to mind, followed by derivative. I see touches of Valentino, Armani and several others. None of whom are bad to bow to, but it just is a little boring.

Ann


Not fond of the zippers on most of the jackets. Makes them look cheap.

It's a toned-down collection, and I'm not sure how much I like Christian when he's not going over-the-top. Over-the-top is his thing. This collection is pretty, but lacks his personality. Perhaps it's more mature, and I'm just missing it. Still, it's all very wearable and thus sellable, so good on him.


Very interesting. The pink dress is indeed a showstopper, if not especially original.

I sure could use that sheer knee-length wrap. Really, really -- I need it!!

A lot of good stuff here. The only thing is there are a lot of dresses built around the fitted strapless or Wilma bodice with shoulder or hip treatments, and it's a silhouette we've seen soooo much of. Enough, already.


It's an interesting direction for him to go. I like the collection a lot and assuming that he returns to a more dramatic style in later collections, I think that this will be an important part of his career collection. It demonstrates to buyers that he is versatile and can do the art side and the pragmatic side of the business.


I recognize at least 4 of the models from his PR finale show. Overall I really liked most of it. Toned down, but that's ok, he's got plenty of time to turn the dial back up. What is he, 24? 25?


"Tlo said: Christian has made a couple of comments in the press about scaling back in the current economic situation and this collection looks to be the result of that thinking."




As I was scrolling through, that's exactly what I was thinking. We can't blame him for toning down to more practical, affordable pieces - everyone has to do what they can do to survive this recession. But I think you can do that without looking like someone has let the air out of your balloon.

This looks a bit like he's grasping: Like if he can't do the over the top stuff, he loses all sense of bearing.

--GothamTomato


I think this was a smart cjoice. A good solid design that can be sold to well-to-do public.

In fairness there are glints of fierceness in the shoes

Frank


I really liked Christian's collection. Your points are very well made and I can see where you're coming from.

I feel though that Michael Kors is another one who has made a solid career from collections with rack appeal (that sounds like a name for a bra company....!) as well as less risky aesthetics. It's good to see Christian making good business decisions as well as putting together a solid collection.


This may sound counter-intuitive, but I think he made a mistake in toning down the collection and producing sportswear.

Those are garments that people buy, which means they have to be in stores. What is is manufacturing and distribution like? Does he as a designer even manufacturing and distribution arms to his lines?

If I learned anything from "House of Boateng" (other than Ozwald's really kind of a boring person) it's that the US is a vast market to break into, and I think Christian's desire to keep showing at Bryant Park, without the apparatus behind him to meet a buyer's needs, was short-sighted, especially if he plans to branch into sportswear.


By far one of the best collections in fashion week. He's really killed most of the well known designers when it comes to their fall collections. Siriano will become huge.


My guess is he's trying to get his line into more stores. He has a lot of fans and support, but it doesn't seem like he's being taken seriously as a "designer" by major fashion editors. Nytimes doesn't even show his collection on their website for example.

His partnership with Payless won't last forever, and he needs to make sure his line is profitable. Still he's making a dent with more celebrities wearing his clothes. Hopefully sales will follow.


I really liked this collection. Most of the ones I've seen have interesting pieces, but few I would actually want to wear. I saw the first two pieces of this collection and immediately thought, "I WANT!!!" along with many of the other ones. I don't think a mature collection is necessarily a bad thing. If he keeps doing this every season there might be a problem, but I consider this a great collection, especially for those of us who sometimes want to actually wear the clothes we see on the runway.


I love this collection, and I have not loved much of the others Siriano has presented. It is very saleable, and in these times, that's what it's all about.


I actually really like this collection. Lots of blacks but they all look great. I like the direction he went in. They're sophisticated pieces that could actually be worn on an everyday basis. And also, I must note that it still seems as though Christian is the most succesful PR winner out of all the seasons so far. Big names are wearing his clothes right and left and he deserves it.


Your economics explanation makes sense. What I thought was "*sniff* Our little boy is growing up!"

Meaning that he's growing into new places: separates, the pieces that thousands of women upper middle class incomes can buy as splurges, or maybe an "investment piece" or two. But because he's going new places, he hasn't quite put his stamp on what he's doing, yet.


Is there any chance of getting close-ups of the shoes? The blue sandals with the ruffles look very interesting.


I'm a big sucker for great coats and he made some amazing ones. And the 3rd and 2nd to last dresses are amazing. However,

I was more preoccupied with the model's bushy eyebrows that I really couldn't focus much on the collection. Seriously, is that the trend for the upcoming season, really thick eyebrows that don't match a person's face? Awful.

The clothes on the other hand, not so bad.

-D


It's a little too somber for me (except for that awesome pop of pink at the finale) but the individual pieces are lovely and very desirable. There are some terrific LBDs as well.

Nice collection, but I miss PPS's prints and colors and froof.


Color me unimpressed. It looks derivative. So sad, as I loved his last collection. There's just no wow! there.


Loved. Especially the shorter dresses.


Can't anyone justadd a bow or a ruffle? I loved him on PR, but evolve...into something that doesn't make me yawn.


His usual over-the-top frou frou stuff looks like he's playing Barbie dressup. These are real clothes, and I hope he continues to go in this direction.
He can still throw that Barbie dress on at the end. But the boy is growing up and these designs reflect that.


Beautiful collection BUT there's a lot of Jillian and Rami in that collection!


I agree, the "wow" factor is missing, but he's still a far more interesting designer than,say, Farah Angsana. And I want want want the draped blue long dress and the short blue draped dress. Let's hope this collection is "sellable" and can finance his flights of fancy.


It's a nice collection, but I'm not a fan of the big bow on either the shoulder or the hip.

Do you have pictures of the shoes?


honesty.not.pc

I like it, lots of wearable peices in there (wearable even for me :))
I loved his last collection even more though.

Could use some more color of course


Why does every collection need to have an overt, bombastic "gasp" factor?

IMO, that critique says more about those making it than the designer.

Congratulations to Christian for an impeccable collection that looks well put together and wearable.

Very, very smart.


Christian is maturing into a fine designer. I thought his short dresses and suits were the strongest part of the collection. So much thought went into them that the gowns seemed a bit of a cast-off in comparison.

The suits and dresses--all by themselves-- would make a cohesive and comprehensive wardrobe. In fact, unlike past collections, I could immediately see how they could translate to bigger sizes. Very good design.

The last three gowns seemed way out of place, as if models from someone else's collection had wandered in.


refariel said...

Why does every collection need to have an overt, bombastic "gasp" factor?

IMO, that critique says more about those making it than the designer.


Why do so many people on the internet feel the need to insult those with whom they disagree?

IMO, that says more about them than their actual opinions.


1st pass through was a bit of a let down cause ive come to expect so much from him. but on 2nd viewing i actually really like it.

the gowns & party dresses will get lots of play on the red carpets & such. while the separates are really very solid. love the structured jackets, pants, skirts... there seems to be a good range for different ages, too. great job, very smart.


I'm glad to be reminded that he does have a business to run. I like the separates and suits, but the dresses and gowns are kinda "meh" with the exception of the pink gown which I love.


The collection feels a little too serious. A little down.

A transition phase that Princess needs to find his way through.

The day look separates are pretty strong to me (maybe because that's a white shirt tailored look I like), but much of the evening fabric looks chip, though I love the black/navy match-ups.

Lovely final gown.

I hope you can interview him, TLo. Where is he getting backing these days? Who is he selling to? How is the Payless gig going? Funny... all my questions seem to business ones.


PS - A couple dresses could've used some boob lift.


I offered a rather basic aphorism from art criticism based on the fact that an audience tends to project their own expectations onto an artist's work and reacts accordingly.

If you have an issue with another's work it can be very informative to wonder "Why do I have this issue, is it the artwork or my expectations?".

In a way, perhaps Christian Siriano is the Bob Dylan of the fashion world.


"Why do so many people on the internet feel the need to insult those with whom they disagree?

IMO, that says more about them than their actual opinions."


Does he use Sessilee Lopez as his closing model in every show? She always look fierce in his clothes!


I was thinking it was toned down for him. But considering I thought that most of his prior stuff was "too much", that was good.

I love the jacket/pants outfit with the embossed (leather?) jacket before the rest of the dresses and gowns.

I also liked the gray gown, although I got the impression of Merle's zip off skirts


There are quite a few clunkers in this collection. The Morticia Adams gown is one particularly egrarious example. Some of the jackets look positively dowdy - something I never would have associated with Christian's work. Let's hope that the next collection is better. I sincerely want him to do well.


I agree with Gorgeous Things. I see traces of other desingers. I also see a bit less of PPS. We all knew he had to grow up some time, but I wish he'd have kept some of his original joie de vivre, wit and risk from his first collection. That said, I still look forward to seeing his work evolve over the next few years.

edina


"Victoria Paige said: I feel though that Michael Kors is another one who has made a solid career from collections with rack appeal (that sounds like a name for a bra company....!) as well as less risky aesthetics. It's good to see Christian making good business decisions as well as putting together a solid collection."



I agree with this. Nothing Kors does really reinvents the wheel, but he's built what seems like a solid brand. Maybe that's what Christian is trying to do. He just hasn't found his feet yet. And face it, all those fans from PR were never going to buy the couture stuff. If he wants to survive, he has to meet his market where it is.

--GothamTomato


All I know is, I covet that leather jacket.


hmmmmm I had to look at this collection a couple of times. I loved the latter half at first sight but the earlier peices grew on me as I am just a little tired of no colour. (presently, I can wear black for a week straight with intermittent greys, idk how I got there but I'm trying to pull myself out of it. Im actually wearing a black top with a grey shirt underneath now, le sigh).


Consequently I am disappointed in the colour but not the shapes and styles. I heart both of the leather jackets and many of the dresses and coats!

I was less than impressed with the hairstyles on the models, they looked kind of manly. However, he does always have a diverse selection of girls so that always makes me happy :)


For the first time, I'm really liking the majority of a PPS collection. There are one or two gowns I didn't like, but the rest of the collection is pretty and wearable for more than stick figures. It's nice to see Christian maturing in his design.


The separates were gorgeous. I would wear all of them. And I loved the Veronica Lake-esque puddling gown.


bitchybitchybitchy

I'm not swooning over this collection by my beloved Princess PuffySleeves, but I like it. Good for Christian that he is thinking about saleable looks-he has to establish himself and pay the bills. The clothes look impeccably tailored, quality pieces that would wear well in a gal's wardrobe, and that's important.

Go, Christian, Maryland's proud of you!


I want that last burgundy gown with the flounce at the hip - of course then I'd have to finagle a time and place to wear it.

All in all a much more wearable collection than his previous efforts - that can be a good or bad thing depending on how you look at it.


This collection left me cold. Give me the more whimsical Siriano back, please. I don't expect to see runway collections in stores anyway...I'm grieving!


he's really amazing...very talented with lots of potential.

i want to love the collection but i do like it, only. the last looks are truly stunning.

all the best siriano.


i'm not dorothy gale

I love that Christian has maintained his personal style and this is a lovely collection. Really, he's just a baby in the business...I envision and hope for a wonderful future for him.


I think that he is showing his versatility here, which is a smart move. I don't think he will become generic, because he is such a personality and smart enough to at least comment on the economy in a sensible way rather than dress people up like the homeless. I am impressed with that aspect, as well as his maturing into a well-rounded designer, which I could see in his last collection. He put himself on the map with that one, which WAS spectacular, and now he is showing other facets of his talent. And there's always the shoes!

I was not super-impressed by Christian's PR collection, but he has grown and started to impress me. His output, post-PR, is by far the most impressive, and I think he is going to make it big(ger).


please, that grey dress is to die for!


I don't know if it's that smart an approach. Rick Owens, or Elbaz, or Marni, or established names like Chanel, or Gucci, don't sell the amounts they sell by putting blah utterly generic pieces into a runway. And you don't have to sell what you show, just look at Calvin Klein. The fashion shows, particularly when you're young and new, are about getting people to look at you. And there's nothing here that calls for a second look. Just a couple of pieces that he'll get some celebrity to redcarpet wear. So I don't see the progress really.

Plus frugal doesn't have to equal middle age...

-Don
-Don


I like that two-tone magenta tunic/dress number towards the end, and the brownish gown with the side bow. Everything else -- booooring.


I actually love how modest it all is - femininity is glamorously augmented by the shapes and textures, no boobs on a platter. No hemlines that would require getting a Brazillian wax.


It's a gorgeous collection of pieces that grownup women would buy and wear. For once a designer's showing things you don't have to be under 30 to wear.


i loved the collection... i seriously covet those jackets.


Look 23 reminds me of Maya and Jay's Dress from Episode 3.


I like them. I'd like them better in colors. It is not outrageous or pushing any envelopes however, I think he will get more orders and the man has got to eat. I like that they were very feminine, sexy and yet modest. I don't ever wear gowns -- but they seemed dark/heavy for Spring.

Now, I'd like some casual wear. Did not really care for the shoes.

(I don't wear much black so it seemed very funereal to me. I am happily wearing sky blue/white/black plaid trousers and a burnt orange woolen sweater)-- I'm tired of the grey/white/dark weather.)


It is the Fall/Winter collection.


I think Christian is playing it smart. He needs to make clothes that people will buy if he wants to stay in the business, and it is a business. In the last week, I've read articles about Zac Posen and the late Alexander McQueen and how they are/were feeling the pressure from investors/parent company to be profitable. Posen lost money for ten years in a row, and McQueen just started showing a profit for the first time in the last couple of years, mostly from starting a less expensive line. It's great to set the fashion world on fire, but at some point you still have to make money. Even the great ones.

So good for Christian. He's getting very good advice from someone, and is savvy enough to take it.


It is a little demure for Siriano but there isn't a piece that I wouldn't want to wear. Gorgeous collection overall.


I like it. It's not earth-shattering, however it's practical and, as stated upthread, wearable on those of us on the other side of 30 who may no longer have skinny hips and perky tits.

I want that coat in #5. It's not the only thing I want, but it's something practical - I could wear it for work (yawn, damn corporate job pays the bills), to a party, to a bar, shopping, etc.

And while I love and need the idea of "wonder" in fashion, and whimsy and escapism, PPS is young and needs to find a way to do both. Because sadly, corporate is what pays the bills.


VeryNot on 2/13/10 at 3:57 PM said...It's a toned-down collection, and I'm not sure how much I like Christian when he's not going over-the-top. Over-the-top is his thing.

The great thing about Christian is that he does wearable over-the-top if you have a certain body type...i.e. Posh Spice...so we look forward to his over-the-top wear ability runway collections unlike McQueen who's runway collections are not wearable for most non MTV & VH1 stars.

TampaBay


I like this collection and am pleased to see the beautiful coats.

I still hate his tendency to use very dark/black as his main color. The details are difficult to see in print when the fabric is so dark, and it makes for a fairly depressing feel overall.

Still, I think his viewpoint is valuable and this collection appeals a much broader range of potential customers. There are pieces which are interesting yet wearable for real life. Well done, Christian.


Same thing, different fabrics.


Lordy, I'm sick of the mini and forgot to say before that one thing I really like is the longer length of the short dresses.

That hemline is so chic.


ok, so if he's toning down the clothes themselves, why not still keep that over-the-top factor that we all love of his with something like... those big ridiculous hats he does. I mean after all, this if his inspiration was 1960's paris, talk about an era of ridiculous hats!


zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz


I like the concept of "power dressing" taken to a very feminine and creative level. If he keeps that up, I would love to buy one "suit" a season from this designer.

I work in the finacial services industry, and the goal in my dressing is not to be "conservative" but to be assertive, creative AND appropriate.


I liked his previous collection a lot more; not seeing much new here.


I don't know I just found it so overwhelmingly disappointing.
I understand that its a business and he needs to make money, but I didn't find a singly one of his old, great pieces unwearable or unmarketable.
It's just such a dissapointment that he lost so much of his creativity and drama in order to make the clothes "marketable", it was borderline dull.
And how do dull clothes sell more than creative, dramatic clothes?
I don't think this collection showed maturity, it shows a need to conform to the market, which is an unfortunate reality sometimes.
I liked that it was a step away from what he usually does, unfortunately it was a step in the wrong direction.
Oh and come on, if I see another collection inspired by vintage Paris, I'm gonna hurl all over it.


Boring. Yawn. Ho-hum. Would never have pegged this as a Siriano collection. Only like the last few gowns. Otherwise, dull, depressing, what the heck was he thinking?? Is he losing his inspiration??


Well, I Loved it! Definitely what I would buy if I only could. Congrats Christian!


It feels like that little bitch has a new collection every week.

PPS is really getting out there like no other PR contestant. Good for her!


Loved the ombre shift and the little blue baby doll dress.

As I was looking at the clothes I was thinking, I could wear that, rather than, Victoria Beckham could wear that. Well done, little ferosh.


Is this the same designer or did someone else design this line? A few nice pieces. the rest????ABLE





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