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Christian Dior Spring 2010 Haute Couture

Strike a pose!


FWD:

"Equestrian chic was the big news in Christian Dior’s spring haute couture show Monday afternoon, Jan. 25, in Paris, where the house’s couturier John Galliano looked to fin de siecle ladies who hunted, rather than lunched.

Specifically, Galliano referenced the late 19th century women who inspired Charles James, the neo-classical American designer whose more extravagant shapes also inspired Monsieur Christian Dior himself when he developed the 1947 New Look show, one of the most influential collections ever made. "

Our reactions to this collection are all over the place but then again, so is the collection. Let's start with the good: beautiful pieces, very much in the Dior mode, gorgeous color story. The not-so-good (or, at the very least, the parts we're ambivalent about): well for one, it's "very much in the Dior mode." We realize we just used that as a compliment but there's a flip side to that. He's not really doing anything to put his own stamp on the name. He keeps rehashing the same silhouettes and styles. Plus he's all over the map, going from New Look-inspired equestrian looks to these almost swinging '60s-style party dresses in the same collection. The other part that we have a major problem with is the styling. This is Dior haute couture. Leave the drag queen hair and makeup for the Heatherette shows.

Maybe we're being a little nitpicky. It is a gorgeous collection, after all. It's just that it feels like a lot of the same old, same old.



















































[Photos: Catwalking.com/Wireimage]



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123 comments:

Edith Head called. She wants her costumes back.


Silly TLo ! These clothes ARE for Drag Queens !!

Sewhat?


Who let Dolly Parton in?


Sorry - make that Cecil Beaton called...

Anyone else humming Ascot opening Day, or is it just me?


Clueless Jock

The collection is gorgeous.


Move over dolls, Helen Lawson is back... with a vengeance!


I'm sorry, but that stuff in the background, roses and twisted fabric and whatnot, just looks so cheap and tacky.


Gorge. Not loving all the different shades of purple and their pairings, though.


The styling extreme to say the least. Mon Dieu!

FRank


Mame!


This post should have come with a sunglasses alert cause colorful is an understatement. There are parts I like and parts that are as you say a bit too drag queen for me.


Ok, starts out with stuff that's a few clock-parts away from Steampunk, segues into Elegant Gothic Lolita, and then... what, Edith Head run through a randomizer?

It's possibly too kind to call it derivative.


honesty.not.pc

I love the clothes! I HATE the styling. We are in complete agreement TLO. Leave it to Heatherette. Some of it reminds me of Eliza Doolittle mixed with bride of Frankenstein mixed with a hookers boudoir (that background is horrid).

But the clothes...those TDF clothes are spectacular.


sorry, a fair number of these look "chip" in a "chip" way, which is disconcerting, because this is supposed to be high fashion.... right?


I don't quite get the Elsa Lanchester styling, but nobody does luscious elegance like Dior.


i'm tired of galliano, when is he getting canned from dior? bring tom ford into dior please...


I really love the jewelry.


This is a pretty weak showing, I think. I agree, too much of the same. Really, I think Galliano hasn't had a stunner of a couture show since the Madame Butterfly/origami-inspired one a few seasons back (S/S 2007?). His shows are always beautiful, but in terms of innovation that's the last time I remember seeing it in his couture shows.


I hate hate hate the public-school-prom/funeral home backgrounds.


The busy, highly colored background makes it much harder to detect the actual color story. I'd vastly prefer to see these against a washed out background, rather than against that highly saturated pepto pink.


just plain christine

Love the Equestrian looks - everything else is just meh to me. But I have to go on record (even if it dates me) and say that I adore the mid-calf skirt length of those first pieces. I know, I know, current trends call that length dowdy and frumpy, but I've always loved it and always will.


color by technicolor.


Like honesty.not.pc, I had thoughts of the Bride of Frankenstein and Eliza Doolittle. I'd like to add Cruella de Ville to the mix. These looks are the ultimate in costume wear. Interesting colors, textures and silhouettes, but I really can't see many modern women embracing these looks.

edina


I'm having flashbacks to when I was forced to watch Lawrence Welk at my grandma's when I was a kid. And a-one and a-two.... So costume-y. The frou-frou could have been worn by Ziegfeld's Lillian Russell. And when did riding habits become de riguer? Neigh.

Several of the gowns, though, are gorgeous. One of each, please.


or have I merely been to blind to realize....

Yeah, yeah all criticism is true, BUT I still think it's gorge.


The second to last gown with the purple scoop neck bodice and full feathery skirt makes me weep with longing. Why oh why can't I have an unlimited fashion budget and frequent red carpet occasions to go to?


Those clothes make all the models look short! And that is no easy task!

-E


Those shorter white dresses - beautiful wedding dress alternative.


Love the equistrian! OMG, that grey plaid riding habit with attitude rocks. But the rest....WTF?? Bridesmaid meets shredder meets B-movie costume.


1. That 16th model looks really familiar and it's going to drive me nuts until I figure out who she is.

2. Some of the color combinations here are actually a little painful to look at. However, I don't hate this collection.


Second I saw the white ball gown I thought "Wonder if Kate Hudson will wear that to the Oscars".


The last gown was a misstep, imho. Why try to redo an iconic dress like the 1949 CD Juno? It can only pale in comparison.


Oh, yuck.


The hair strikes me as an homage to Daphne Guinness, no?


Do some of those gowns have stomach bustles? Please tell me it's the way the models are standing/ funky camera angle. Beacuse - NO.


I guess we now know what Cruella DeVille would wear to the Kentucky Derby...


Well, I for one ADORE this collection.


What if Racquel Welch as Myra Breckinridge and Lypsinka were starring together in a production of Mame?


Wow. Overall decent collection, if you can get past the styling horrors. Yikes.


1. I wish I could make my hair do that.
2. the equestrian looks make me think of Bette Davis in Jezebel.
3. It is the same old same old, but I'm not tired of it yet.


Impressive work, as usual, but nothing that I haven't seen before from Dior.


Love look 25, the ball gown and the necklace. Love the longer skirt lengths shown in the first looks because I have two gorgeous old skirts with a longer length that I was preparing to cut off and make short. I can now where them just as they are.

TampaBay


It starts out good but then goes downhill. I love the long skirts that are narrow and full at the same time. They must look great in motion.


The first few coats are simply amazing.


I LOVE the dresses (esp. the black one, 2nd last) and I also love the styling. I may have a "taste issue" in the parlance of Nina Garcia, but I just love anything with a rococco flair. This is truly a feast for the eyes, I say.


Call me crazy, but I don't think 14 and 14b are actually the same outfit? 14b has this nubby zigzagging on the top, a long... front-bustle thing, flowers in the mesh hat/veil; 14 has a flowery lacey-business on the top, no front flounce (or only a short one), and her mesh looks clear. Oh, and also the necklines are completely different. ANYWAY.

The only look that totally turns me off is 24, with the big purple... thing. I mean, that seems very clearly to not actually be on the model.


i'm not dorothy gale

No gasps of delight were uttered with this Dior collection. Anony #1 nailed it. Painfully retro with occasional bursts of intense color contrast. Someone needs an extended vacay.


I want the booties and shoes!


Anyone else humming Ascot opening Day, or is it just me?
Not just you, honey. "What a thrilling moment that was..."
The riding habits are gorgeous and would be perfect for riding my horsey in the Bois de Boulogne. In 1900.


I am totally in love with several of the gowns, including the white satin and the deep red. But the first several equestrian looks reminded me of the fox hunt scene from Auntie Mame


I actually don't like anything other then the equestrian type outfits. I definitely see where you're coming from about the same old, same old thing. And what is with the constant floral backgrounds? They make all of the clothes, especially the later ones, look like something out of an 80s department store magazine. Not good. Because aside from the first few outfits, everything else screams 80s and early 90s tacky. And I don't think that's what was supposed to happen. The ball gowns are very Barbie doll. Also not good.


raisin mountaineer

o.k., so I came to your site via Project Runway, and have been learning the lingo ever since, and all I can think of is "edit, people, edit." Some of it's nice but there's way too much frippery.


Am I wrong for loving those open toe heels? They're the kind I dreamed of wearing when I could barely shove two pieces of plastic onto my Barbie's feet. The whole collection is very pre-feminist, yet empowering, evoking a stonger image than any pantsuit. Most of the models could carry the caption 'I have a vagina worthy of ruffles. My condolenses that you don't.'


Goodness. Delete the background for starters. Then, well, maybe delete the BOFrankenstein hair. It's overwhelming.


Those gowns are very old-school Dior!

But that white skirt on the left in the third row? The one with pleats on just one side? I have one like it in black. I've had it for years. It's one of my favorite garments, because of the way the pleats move when I move.


I don't care what anyone says, I am absolutely tenting and shooting.
Gorge!


I think these clothes are gorgeous! Really incredible! Of course they are over the top but rein them in a bit, and they are fabulous!

I especially love the red coat and the light green gown! Fab!


The skinny gals are going to get mad but damn some of those girls arms are skeletal.

such a variety - some are gorge but for so many "where would anyone wear these?" not that I wouldn't want to attend those events.


Honey, that's a lot of look.


Wow, entirely too costume-y. And, this is coming from someone who adores Viktor & Rolf, McQueen (even with the "angry shoes"), and even Lady Gaga.


I do like the equestrian looks because... well, I'm an equestrian. None of these clothes are utilitarian, but since when is anything haute couture utilitarian??

That chignon on the 4th row model! I've never seen one so huge!


I could hardly catch my breath moving from picture to picture. I'm coveting two of the dresses to the point of serious sinning. The technical abilities make the pieces incredible. The slim sleeves are so well done they look painted onto the body. They are all just pee-my-panties-perfect!


Oh dear me. I actually like a lot of these things, but in a nostalgic way. This collection and the styling pretty much perfectly nailed my taste circa age 8.


Linda from Chicago

>>Edith Head called. She wants her costumes back.<<

Hey, Edith Head influenced me into changing my religion -- after comparing the Egyptians in DeMille's Ten Commandments (second, the first was silent), I decided I liked the way pagans dressed a lot better than the Jews/Christians of 50's religious epics. Who wants to wear mud-colored burlap? Well, then again, maybe they just needed the right designers . . .

Anyway, I love the magenta/gold color combination. The styling and much of everything else is over the top but it's lots of fun.


I actually love everything about this collection and the show! I think the background just adds to the story they were trying to tell and I love the colors and the styling. Some of the details on those pieces are exquisite, especially the jackets and the gowns. Dior has always put on some of my favorite shows and I really don't think this one disappoints. Besides, an artist can't ALWAYS put out something ridiculously amazing, can't we just be happy with simply amazing?


COSTUMES. every last one of them.


I love the coats. Seriously I would wear them in a heartbeat. I am also all about a good top hat/veil combo. I literally had to just take a moment to stare and be in love with that grey coat before moving on.

The dresses start going down hill as they get more formal. The lace ones are a bit much but I'm generally okay with that. The ballgowns however are a bit random with the color choices.


Totally over the top. All of it. The clothes, the styling, the backdrop. And that first picture - the close-up, lift that veil and you'll see Lucille Ball as Mame.


Best Costume Parade EVER! Unfortunately I think it would put any show for which these are designed waaaaay over budget.

- Kathryn


Thanks for the post, TLo! There are some great pieces...I agree with the other posters that the background looks completely cheap and tacky. However, it was nice to check out the collection on Style.com and *not* see Galliano surrounded by bodyguards... that is always just a little bizarro to me. But then again...he was the inspiration, supposedly, for Mugatu!!


I don't know, I love Dior, but everything looks cheap, no? maybe the fabrics, I can't quite put my finger on it.


These are right out of a 70's overdone Hollywood musical. Something like Hello, Dolly or the Ascot scene in My Fair Lady.

No, just no.


Why are the models all styled to look like Daphne Guinness????


Anonymous
1/25/10 6:32 PM
Anyone else humming Ascot Opening Day, or is it just me?

Not just you. It looks like he was hired to costume that movie all over again.


Overall I really like the collection, but I'm no fashion aficionado by any means so I'm not familiar with what Dior has shown in the past.

I hadn't really noticed the background until it was mentioned in some of the previous postings. It reminds me of old movie sets - maybe from the 30's/40's/50's - when wealthy women went into hihg-end boutiques that had models that gave private shows.

Polly Glot


EWWWW. EWWWW. The ones in the sequence with the huge hats -- did he go to a child's beauty pageant for inspiration...because from the dresses to the styling, those girls look like spackled with make-up, dressed up in pageant clothes 4 year olds.

I liked the beginning equesterian dresses but was really :( with everything about the superfrilly ones with the big hats.


Most of me wants to LOVE it and the other part of me says "what the heck is with the Elvira hair and makeup?!"


First couture show from him that didn't excite me.


Oy, the lace...


bitchybitchybitchy

I just wish that my life included the funds and the events to allow me to wear both of the last two eveing gowns-especially the one with the gray overlapping panels...

Well, a bitch can dream, can't she?


Why are so few of the pieces flattering from the waist down? Why in the world would you want a huge flap of fabric coming off the front or back of you? Bustles should only be on brides.


I quite like the beginning - I'd wear nearly all of the equestrian jackets and some of the skirts, though not together.

The middle looks like some little girls playing in a very well appointed dress up bin.

The end looks like 50s European princess wear with a few mis-steps. I LOVE the one with the beige-y colored velvet that crosses in the front though. Awesome.

I'm with everyone on the background. It took far too much concentration to pick the clothes out in these pictures.


Eh, personally, a lot of this is too over the top for me. Clothes like this look like tremendous work to wear...

HOWEVER! Those satin shoes they have paired with the cocktail dresses? I...DIE!!


Along with the equestrian theme, I'm also feeling a mixture of My Fair Lady, Elizabeth Taylor, Bride of Frankenstein, Funny Face.

What else is there for me to say other than I love it even though, like you've stated, it's all been done before.

Ginger


I got a headache just looking at the pictures. The background is an unnecessary distraction and competes with the dresses for attention. The styling is positively hideous. Once you take away those two elements, what you are left with (the actual clothes) is just meh.


I enjoyed the entertainment aspect of the collection, and the beautiful colors. Some of the gowns were sumptuous and gorgeous. I'm tired of seeing S&M crapola on the runway.
Otherwise, the styling was questionable (the Bride of Frankenstein hair). And I could have done without the overworked runway background.


I'm waiting for the "He stole from Leanne!" comments.


1) Grey plaid coat is gorgeous
2) Most of the dresses look tacky and cheap.
3) Good god someone feed those models before they keel over. They are beyond grossly skinny.


Wow. All over the place is right. Everything from love to "you've got to be kidding."

In general I like what's going on above the waist better than below; a lot of the skirts (are some split skirts?) seem, well, *ungracefully* voluminous somehow.

Having said that, I have deep love for the navy coat dress with the beautiful green fragment of a full skirt emerging on the hip.

I dislike the dresses styled with fancy garden party hats which look as if the dresses themselves ARE the garden in the garden party. They remind me of Spring/Easter season sales ads for low-mid range department stores in the late 60's.

I'll confess, I usually like Dior best when the house is harking derivatively back to its heyday - but there's too much here.


Loving the shoes and color combos.

Daphne G must have been the muse...she rocks the equestrian look while stealing/riding other women's husbands.

Oh, that was bitchy, wasn't it?


I couldn't help imagining the reaction of the judges if some of those gowns showed up on the runway at Project Runway or even Launch My Line!
I was a teenager when the New Look was launched -- and it looked a lot better than these knock-offs.

Quiltmuse


I totally get the background, even though as Ginger said above, it screams "THINK PINK" like in the beginning of Funny Face.


Yes the styling blows, but the clothes are gorgeous and the shoes? I DIE.


You hit the nail on the head, boys. I wholeheartedly concur.


I like the styling because it is the the only thing keeping from being the most generic Dior show ever. Wow. Bo-ring. (And really, nothing even that gorgeous. For DIOR! Ouch.)


I can see that the fabrics are gorgeous and the use of proportions are interesting. But those clothes look, to my eye, to be completely unwearable anywhere outside a high-end circus. They're so big and costumey that no real woman -- even a 6 foot tall model with a BMI of 17 and cheekbones for miles -- could wear one of those garmets without looking as though the dress were swallowing her.

When no famous beauty that you can think of could possibly pull off even one piece in a collection without looking completely ridiculous, the collection is a failure. -victoria


I thought the opening passage, especially the windowpane checks, was especially signature of Galliano: something in the peplums and draping came across a little rugged, I liked it.

The sixties dresses made me think more of YSL than Christian Dior, but the eveningwear toward the end (no surface embroideries, rich and crazy color combinations?) had some elements that made it seem Galliano.

Overall, though, the style of the pieces was too referential, in my opinion, and referential of the same moments in the archives as his Fall 2009 couture show. I liked it more, but it felt stale, mostly.


I usually do not like booties ut I love all the booties as styled here.

TampaBay


Gorgeous!


HATE the makeup. WTF?


Started out classy, swiftly went tacky, then stayed there.


LOVE IT !!! Even the stuff I didn't like so much I loved! Crazy Fun collection. Crazy Fun styling.


bouleversement

I'd like to preface this by saying that John Galliano is my boy; I worship him; if I was a man we'd be lovers; I exalt every last sock he's ever darned; I stood outside his Paris boutique after it closed with my face pressed to the glass just to breathe his air.
But I still don't like long skirts with boots.


Amazing and beautiful, the fabrics, the draping. I love every piece but yes, they are costumes. I can't wait to see if any of these gowns make it to a red carpet event.


It's an assortment of beautiful clothes that add up to a terrible collection. This is why galliano annoys the shit out of me though.
I would buy and wear every single article of clothing presented, if I could. The styling however, is so rediculous it cheapens the collection.


The crappy styling and slouching completely distracted me, but I think I just scrolled through Auntie Mame's wardrobe.


I love the first several outfits... but then they morph into looking like 1960s bridesmaids as seen through the eyes of a guest who dropped acid before the ceremony.


Hmmm.


Love it all. Between the pairing of the pieces and the styling, its *completely* over the top, but the individual pieces would make spectacular focal points for outfits.

I also love that designers seem to be moving from conservative "oh noes! economy issues!" to over-the-top "screw this, lets escape into fantasy!". Its crazy and fun.

And its nice to be able to actually see crazy Victorian influence in a collection that claims to be inspired by such. We have a pretty romanticized idea of what the Victorians wore now, but 'back in the day' this sort of over-the-top insanity was the norm. If you had money, you flaunted the hell out of it.


You heartless bastards! Galliano is one of the best designers alive!!! I would wear any one of these outfits and I'm not a trannie or Dolly Parton!


The very last dress- I would sugggest derivative.
http://www.metmuseum.org/TOAH/HD/dior/ho_C.I.53.40.5a-e.htm

"Junon" dress, fall/winter 1949–50, with the same "petals"


OK, I like the Old French Whore with an infusion of drag queen look as much as the next guy, but Monsieur Galliano it's time to move on.

I like the equestrian segment of the program, although at some point it started to look like he was coordinating pieces rather than designing looks.

I didn't care for the lacy dresses, but I did like the hats.

I didn't like most of the looks from the shiny segment.

I liked most of the gowns. I wish that he would have left the bow off the Junon dress. Love, love the black dress. Almost love the purple gown and the gown with orangey-brown sash on the bodice.

I loved the tall boots and the shoes from the shiny segment.

Was the show held in a funeral parlor?


The very last dress- I would sugggest derivative.
http://www.metmuseum.org/TOAH/HD/dior/ho_C.I.53.40.5a-e.htm

"Junon" dress, fall/winter 1949–50, with the same "petals"

...

wow ! bravo...
when is he out of dior already? i cannot wait for some talent in dior...


seeing this in motion is a different story (check dior.com)...ms kylie minogue is in the front row...


This comment has been removed by the author.

Anonymous on 1/26/10 at 8:03 PM said...
wow ! bravo...when is he out of Dior already? i cannot wait for some talent in Dior...

What we all forget is that very few designers or design houses make money on Haute Couture. Haute Couture, in most cases, is only massive PR for the RTW lines. Most design houses make more money on sunglasses and handbags than ball gowns and red carpet dresses.

TampaBay


For some reason, I always love Dior's Fall Couture, and hate the spring.

For one, I swear to you that he stole that first pink jacket from his Fall line anyway. Second, I couldn't agree more with the make-up. It's god awful. For that matter, why does galliano always insist on those eyebrows? C'mon pat mcgrath! You're better than that!

Last. Those witch-riding boots might be the biggest helping of fug Galliano's served up in a long time.


also, John needs to sit Miss Kloss's lanky ass somewhere in the sidelines and find a model who doesn't slither down the runway to open his next show.


Poor poor John G. He's just rehashing old ideas. And quite frankly...a lot of the "equestrian" look has been done before (and better) by Viv Westwood. Maybe Dior should hire Lacroix...I hear he isn't doing much of anything these days.


... and then a production of My Fair Lady breaks out. It really does look like they're about to start singing the Ascot Gavotte. I'm waiting for Eliza to wander in and ask "Whaht in the 'ell are yeh all wearin'?"

No tale of biting a bowl off of a spoon, or comments about weather in Spain, Hartford, Hereford, and Hampshire can save these garments -- or that hair.


These are wonderful. I love the classic lines, this 18th century redingote-like styling that some of these looks have. It's so chic and refreshing, especially with the powdered hair. I wish we could see more of this 18th century influence on the runway.

But god forbid, I guess, because everyone else will just say OMG BRIDE OF CRUELLASTEIN LOL. :(


One of those was Ping's dress that got her voted off.


I love it. But then I have, as they say, a "theatrical bent." I see the "Junon" influence, but the texture, color and silhouette are actually quite different.

@Edie-- Hooray for vaginas that are deserving of ruffles! Mine is going to go put some on right now!





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