"Equestrian chic was the big news in Christian Dior’s spring haute couture show Monday afternoon, Jan. 25, in Paris, where the house’s couturier John Galliano looked to fin de siecle ladies who hunted, rather than lunched.
Specifically, Galliano referenced the late 19th century women who inspired Charles James, the neo-classical American designer whose more extravagant shapes also inspired Monsieur Christian Dior himself when he developed the 1947 New Look show, one of the most influential collections ever made. "
Our reactions to this collection are all over the place but then again, so is the collection. Let's start with the good: beautiful pieces, very much in the Dior mode, gorgeous color story. The not-so-good (or, at the very least, the parts we're ambivalent about): well for one, it's "very much in the Dior mode." We realize we just used that as a compliment but there's a flip side to that. He's not really doing anything to put his own stamp on the name. He keeps rehashing the same silhouettes and styles. Plus he's all over the map, going from New Look-inspired equestrian looks to these almost swinging '60s-style party dresses in the same collection. The other part that we have a major problem with is the styling. This is Dior haute couture. Leave the drag queen hair and makeup for the Heatherette shows.
Maybe we're being a little nitpicky. It is a gorgeous collection, after all. It's just that it feels like a lot of the same old, same old.
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