“Hidden Eden” was the name the design duo of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli gave to the collection, an evocative display of naturalistic fashion and quivering clothes.
In a show and collection that neatly juxtaposed technology and nature, the two defining materials were telling – soft chiffon and hard sharkskin, or to use its technical term, galuchat. These two were combined in one remarkable jacket, a curvy biker jacket that had lots of chutzpah and a cashmere trim. Think cashmere cruisin’ couture.
This Roman design duo could certainly not be faulted for failing to take risks. They even invented a new garment, a single sleeve jump suit with a hint of a tunic, which they christened the “jump dress.” Later they whipped up a super multicolored pastel feather jacket that had “cover shoot” written all over it.
Throughout the look was ethereal, the models wafting by between the twisting trees, the yellow, rose and flesh hues of the clothes mirrored by technical versions of the same colors on the screen.
“Elongated insects,” was how Piccioli termed the lean look and silhouette he and Chiuri wanted models to have on the catwalk."
Yes. Woman as insects. There's your selling point.
We don't know, kittens. We had negative reactions to this one. For one, it feels like a shoving of the Valentino name into a box it doesn't fit in. But even if the house of Valentino wants to rebrand itself as edgy and Rodarte-like, that still doesn't make the following garments any prettier or more interesting. In fact, so heavily Rodarte-inspired do these garments seem, that it almost doesn't look like a couture collection at all, let alone one from such an established name. There are definitely some interesting pieces here but they're overshadowed by two things: the color story, which we don't like at all, and the styling, which we HATE. Every girl looks exactly the same. Combine that with the bizarre makeup and the blindfolds and the idea of woman as elongated insects and we have to say, we come away with the impression that this is not a very woman-friendly aesthetic.
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