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John Galliano Menswear Fall 2010

It's elementary, kittens.


So Johnny put on a Sherlock Holmes-inspired show:

"Galliano looked beyond the caricature cinematic Holmes to Conan Doyle's brilliant but troubled investigator and martial arts expert with an opium habit.

Models in layers of swishing overcoats in heavy tweeds and fur-lined deerstalkers opened the show, followed by straight-laced Victorian gentlemen in bowler hats and razor-cut three piece suits. Some of those particular characters — modeled on Holmes in his Baker Street daywear — were laced tighter than others, as evidenced by the ladies corsets that peeked out from beneath their slim trousers in Prince-of-Wales checks.

Then came Holmes the martial arts enthusiast, his head shrouded in gauzy bandages and wearing jewel toned briefs and dragon printed satin boxing robes. Holmes the decadent frequenter of London's opium dens came next, in bejeweled Chinese pajama pants and jackets in deep purple velvet."

Clearly, by the time you get to the corsets, you're meant to lean back and enjoy the show because that's what Johnny loves to do; put on a show for you and tell you a story. You can shop for pieces later. At least we would. There are some fucking awesome suits and coats in this show. That 4-button double-breasted pinstripe tailored so tight you can cut paper on it? TO DIE. We're so in love with so many of the pieces here (and it's Galliano so you really have to mentally disassemble each look to see each piece) that he's almost got us believing we could pull off a bowler hat, possibly even a cape.

But not a corset, poodles. Never that.




















































[Photos: Catwalking.com/Wireimage.com/NYMag.com]


Post a Comment
75 comments:

HAHAHAHAHA... I'll go back and browse the suits again once I stop laughing over the corsets.


Some great suits there. But seriously, how do they manage to parade down the runway in those corsets and underwear without the models and audience cracking up with laughter. It's just too silly.


The suits are gorgeous, and I love the long, tailored coats.

The underwear-as-outerwear? Quelle Madonna. So over it.

Liked the abs, though. Could use more of those in my menswear.

Just sayin'.


This is insane(ly awesome), and I was loving it riiiiiight until the white models in yellowface showed up.


The six-packs are so obviously air brushed.
That's all I have to say.


The corset with sock garters look was so not attractive, despite the impressive "package" on the model. Not liking the flood pants in the beginning either. The suits and topcoats are amazing, but really the only good look here.


Why do so many of the models look like Vlad the Impaler?


OH MY!

'Tis quite Galliano, n'est pas? What about the model who looked like a greasy Jude Law?


Curios on what makes something a Corset - vs - a girdle (or henia garment)?


maryja, I have an inappropriate comment to make about the stuffed packages and your Vlad the Impaler remark.

... I'll shut up now.


Suits. Lovely. Some of the coats & capes, very lovely. Are those jammies? loungewear? there at the end? Like. I'd really like the guy who could wear those florals with panache.

The comic strip boxer briefs? The day a guy sheds his pants and I see that, is the day I bust a gut laughing. Which might not be the hoped-for reaction.

The corsets? Silly.


'Tis quite Galliano, n'est pas? What about the model who looked like a greasy Jude Law?

Isn't "greasy Jude Law" redundant?


Oh excellent: Man corsets, to go with Givenchy's strappy sandals, tights, and skirts. Now we just need a show with a mansiere

Having a hard time evaluating the clothes because of the absurd styling. The goofy mustaches and weird head wraps were just too much.


It's been pointed out to me by a stylish young-ish guy, that some probably would wear the comic strip briefs as outerwear, at least for working out.

Possibly I could contain my snickers if I had warning from a distance and the sight wasn't sprung on me.

But maybe not.


I loved the whole thing, especially the corsets. It's hilarious. Oh, actually, not a lover of pleated front pants, but the show was so damn entertaining and so much of it was super gorge that I'll let it go.


Corsets on men = REEEE-diculous!


All of the outerwear, I love. I can easily see the fitted suits going for many men.


The male girdle....
Are men ever going to wear them?
As far as hetero men go, I can see a few celebrities in them on the down low, and the colored ones I can see a few submissives wearing them in BDSM play, but most women don't care about male appearences that much for a girdle to help.

How do gay men feel about them?


My dad used to wear one of those when his back went out.

There's a lot of great stuff in the show--really, truly--but the thought of my dad walking the runway in his brace is just killing me!!


ELements of each are pretty cool - but overall it's pretty silly. I hate the make up! They look dead.


That is an insane collection, let me tell you. Love the underwear : )


Hot.

Also, a male corset can be a glorious thing, although none of these really qualify, I admit. But good stuff all the same!

-- Anun


Galliano always puts on an amazing SHOW. It's pure Theatre. (personally love it) ...I'm particularly fond of his bold/outrageous underwear for men. I feel like writing to him -- to ask if he'll do a Firemen inspired show. (fanning self at the thought)

Austin Sally


I don't even understand how these are all part of the same show!

I love the suits though, very sharp.


Now that I've pulled myself together, I'll say you've got to give him credit. Just when you think everything's been done, he manages to pull out something audacious, provoking, surprising, and often beautiful. Bravo for that.


Wow, almost as good as D&G at first; such classic but modern men's wear. Beautiful, beautiful, really digging it and then - A CUSTARD PIE HITS ME IN THE FACE.

I love this. It's my favorite menswear show ever.


They had me until the corsets. egad!


Wow, that was... really unexpected. Kudos, I guess, because the Sherlock Holmes inspiration had me rolling my eyes at how cliché and derivative it all was, and even though there were some great pieces it was all pretty much what I'd expected at first, and then it... went there. Wow.


That hairy little fashion troll has done it again. And my, what an impressive... codpiece that first corseted model has!

My husband inherited a bowler hat from his grandfather, and I think we're going this Halloween as Mr. Steed and Mrs. Peele.


Oh, Gorgeous! When I was a wee one, Mrs. Peel was my first girl crush. I remain loyal.


Does anybody else envision Johnny Depp in one of those double-breasted suits?

Now I know that I'm going to ruffle feathers by saying this, but to me a designer proves his/her lack of creativity when he/she resorts to such things as man corsets and tights to draw a reaction from the crowd rather than something truly unique and forward in the clothes themselves. Don't get me wrong, Galliano is a genius, but has his bag o' tricks run dry? I sincerely hope not.

Ginger


Please tell me he's not trying to bring back Hammer pants


I'm sorry....I'm seeing the face of our Dandy Patrick on that John Galliano t-shirt.

Clearly, I'm hallucinating.


AWSOME!!!

TampaBay


Also, forgot to add that those suits are TDF and the coats in the first pictures are beautiful as well!

Ginger


I think I've got the story here...So we have Sherlock Holmes (pipe and all) and geez, he hasn't slept in days.

He and Watson (nice 'stache!) meet some respectable businessmen with corset fetishes (because don't all business men have some sort of fetish?) They lead Holmes and Watson down a dark alleyway full of men dressed as ethnic stereotypes.

It's up to Holmes to find the authentic Asian gentlemen in that crowd of sorry posers who can lead him to the opium.

Because don't all authentic Asian gentlemen know all the best places to score opium?

Sounds more interesting than Guy Ritchie's movie.


LOVE LOVE LOVE the first half
really not a fan of the corsets, underwear, etc
still a fun theme though


If I was high as a kite on acid, I would love this even more! Brilliant!!


"Dressed to Kill"...never thought BFUHPants could look so good.

TampaBay


too many cats

In England, at the Maritime Museum, we saw a Henry VIII centered exhibit. Included was the multi-married one's suit of armour. The codpiece was polished to within an inch of its life; the guard said that rubbing that king's codpiece was supposed to bring good luck (ironic) to couples who wanted children.
When that king's codpiece would get freakin' lost in that model's version.


quigley (the cat)

Ahh, Galliano, you crazy mad fool on the hill, you...

There is no art without intoxication. But I mean a mad intoxication. Let reason teeter! Delirium! The highest degree of delirium! Plunged in burning dementia! Art is the most enrapturing orgy within man's reach...Art must make you laugh a little and make you a little afraid. Anything as long as it doesn't bore.

John Galliano channels Jean Dubuffet.

luv'n hisses,
QTC


I am swooning over some of those suits! The show? I was actually getting a bit of a Cirque du Soleil vibe. Grandiose, hilarious and entertaining to the last.


Isn't public masturbation a crime anymore?


Starts out awesome then heads straight into wackadoodle. Love it.


honesty.not.pc

He lost me at Corsets and Lakers underwear but the beginning was delicious!

I LOVE the pinstripe suits.


100% with McBangle. I'm surprised and a little disappointed that no one else seems to care. If it were blackface this would be a problem.

Oh wait, in France it never is.


There are some great pieces in there. And I'm not talking about the clothes.

In the Victorian era, men did wear corsets. The small, wasp waist was an ideal of male beauty at that time and they would lace them up tight and try to get their waists really tiny. (Where did I learn this? CSI.)

I like some of the suits but don't care for the flood pants with the giant clown shoes. Or without the giant clown shoes, frankly.

There was a "Wild Man of Borneo" type character in "The Sign of Four." I think that's where the wild-haired guys with the bones in their hair. I'm sure there were probably Chinese dudes in the Holmes stories, too.

I think the French look at racial issues quite differently than Americans do.


McBangle, Mailee, which pictures are you talking about? I see a man with a red-painted face. And I see other men who might wearing dark body paint, though I'm not sure. Please clarify. Thanks.


Ellen: "I'm sure there were probably Chinese dudes in the Holmes stories, too."

Well, Holmes hung out at opium dens, so, yes. But although I see clothing and styling that references Chinese culture, I'm still unsure about "yellow face." Is it the eye makeup? If it's that--eyeliner meant to evoke "slant eyes"--I can understand the objection. I thought it was mean to evoke a certain style of painting I've seen, but I could be wrong.

For me, the one that gave me pause was the "wild man" headpiece with the red face.


Forget corsets, those looks like back braces!

Very cool, though. I mean, most o the rest of it.


I'm not seeing "yellow face" either. What I see is painted on blood, cuts, and black eyes.


bouleversement

I saw the Sherlock Holmes movie, and now I love it so much more because I can think about John Galliano when I watch it.
Obsession gone too far yet?


Holy Codpiece, Batman!!!!


I love that looking at these in order, it all just completely spins out of control. Was this the order all of it was shown in during the runway show? Because that my friends is a white-knuckle fashion ride.

I like much of it: some of it for being beautiful menswear and some of it for being batshit crazy.

Lastly, the image in the second row on the right reminds me of some samurai gear I saw at the Asian Art Museum in S.F. Given the later looks, I'm guessing it was intentional, even though it is in the proper Englishman part of the show?


I was more distracted by the gooney mustaches.

But some of that was truly fab.


I'm a bit disturbed by how much I love this collection.


The only male corsets I like are leather back braces worn by warehouse workers and UPS guys.

That said, LOVE the suits & jackets. Spats are great but too costumey for street or office. And then we all went to the opium den ...

PS -- yes, men wore corsets in Victorian days. Screen "Topsy Turvy" to see a stage star throw a fit when asked to not wear his under his Japanese hapi coat in "The Mikado."


MelissaGuidry

OHMYGOD Those suits are amazing. And I'm not sure if I'm relieved to see this familiar style (done so very well) after a style I find less comfortable, what with the war-gear-hunting-wear ... but they are a-mazing suits. The first one with the derby hat made me stop scrolling. The suits that followed, heaven. The corsets=what the shit. But, I imagine that I enjoy the commentary that I project JG is making.


Wow! Apart from the corsets, I must say this is my favorite menswear collection til now. If I were a man, I'd probably wear all of it! Well, again, no corsets. Please?


Dear Mr. Galliano:

In the future, please do not put weird ass headgear on the models. It interrupts the pretty.

Respectfully,
ASM

Dear TLo:

Please post more photos of the really hot makeup guy from this season's PR.

If you could throw a random picture of him in right after having to show us an asstacular dress would be nice as to help heal our retinas.

Thanks
ASM


Uh, Galliano has both always had Asian influences in his shows, and always made up his models in an odd but distinct way. I'm sorry, I don't see Mickey Rooney style yellowface - I see Galliano's Asian influences paired with his love of dramatic, over the top, kabuki-esque makeup.

Also: male corseting is not that out of the blue. Galliano works from a lot of historical references, and particularly 18th and 19th century styles. These are a bit lain bare, much like his previous half-dressed couture show, but I don't think they're the silliest thing I've ever seen in a fashion show.

Also, whoever it was that asked if Galliano was trying to bring back hammer pants: I assume you've not been paying much attention to any recent fashion, considering designers have been sending them out recently for some time now.


Brideshead Revisted goes to a Circuit Party.


A little crazed, but gorgeous. You know, I'm not sure I've ever seen a black guy in a bowler hat before. Now I'd like to see fifty.


Re: The "yellow face" issue.

It's odd--the guy in "red-face" IS Asian.


Crazy but gorgeous. Another collection where I want to get my hands on those fabrics -- and a few other things;)
Love the textures. Keeps all the dark from being boring. And the colors are great.
And Johnny Depp would look fab in those suits!


Utterly amazing!!! All of it!!!!

TDinC


what's with the blackface and yellowface?!!? this is tired.


You are absolutely right - I was really impressed up until I reached the corsets hahahha. Anyway the collection is amazing and that way to present the clothes is super cool. And I am loving men's harem pants - soo sexy!!!


Just ridiculous!! What story is her trying to tell with those corset penis holders??

I can't believe this is fashion.


The silly hats reminded me of In Living Color's Men on Film.

"Hated it!" A manly high-five (pinkies up) ensues.


I was falling in love with the Victorian man meets the homeless apocalyptic punk, I didn't even mind the girdle corset things. But I really felt like the second half was trying to revive the 90s with the weird primary colored underwear. What's that even suppose to be...


A little bit of steampunk snuck into the high fashion world. :) Yay! But those man corsets were laughable.


Ahh Bill! Once again a perfect summation conjured up in tight little phrase.

Loved the suits and underwear (though not with the corsets and not on the outside)!

Funny that all of the retro we're getting these days is either '80's or Victorian/Edwardian (ala Steampunk, et al). So I guess neon coloured corsets are right on trend.


fashionablylate

Once I hit those 8-packs I pretty much forgot about everything else.


Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha!!!
Oh, man.... Galliano's been jumping into the Hernia Support bin.





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