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Givenchy Menswear Fall 2010

Jesus loves me
This I know
Because the House of Givenchy
Told me so.

FWD:

"They say that religion and politics don’t, or should not, mix. But what about religion and fashion? Well, in the hands of Givenchy’s designer Riccardo Tisci it can lead to all sorts of witty and thought-provoking fashion, especially for men, as he showed Friday night, Jan. 22, in Paris.

Many looks in the Fall 2010 show featured a golden crown of thorns, albeit worn as a necklace, in the latest collection that tapped into Tisci’s religious and historical obsessions. The very fact that he and a French fashion house evoked the suffering of Christ before an audience of 300 in Paris said quite a lot about current European zeitgeist and debates about integrating Islamic communities into Western Europe, especially at a time when the French parliament is debating a law to ban the wearing of burkhas."

We'll get to our thoughts in a minute. For now, take a look:

































Okay, our reactions are a bit disjointed but we'll try and sum them up. We both love the bare, stripped-down, ascetic quality of the collection. There are quite a few really beautiful pieces in there. The skinny pants/strappy sandals combo is a great look, modern and strangely ancient-looking at the same time. As for the skirts, Tom thinks they look utterly ridiculous. Lorenzo says if he was 20, he'd wear them. Tom looks at Lorenzo like he's nuts and asks, "With black shiny tights and strappy sandals? Good luck getting laid." But even Lorenzo admits that the styling in that instance is a teeny bit much.

And speaking of a teeny bit much, there was on our parts a tendency to roll our eyes at the concept of Jesus on the runway because it's been done and it doesn't really have the power to shock anymore. On the other hand, in light of France's religious squabbles, it makes more sense. A Jesus runway show in America would be featured every night on FOX News for a month, but it means something very different here. So it took us a second, but we came around to the idea, especially since it's not so much a Jesus show as it is a show playing with the themes of religious austerity.

Besides, even Jesus would say "Verily, that skirt and tights combo does suck."

[Photos: Catwalking.com/Getty Images]


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90 comments:

NO! The line against tights must be drawn somewhere and it certainly should be drawn before we have men running around in shinny black tights w/ sandals.


That first boy, in the white shirt & the thorn necklace doesn't look like Jesus: He looks like a Roman statue - a bit like David.

Though with that styling, I'm thinking the designer was smoking weed while watching 'The Red Balloon'.

--GothamTomato


The crown o' thorns necklace is a bit much.


My boyfriend would never wear them, but I lovelovelove the skirts. Love the thorn necklace too.


goodness, what is wrong with these models' faces? half of them look like they got beat with a shovel


I dislike the sandals immensely. They look like something someone who is really into Teva's would wear to a wedding as "dress up" shoes.


"Besides, even Jesus would say "Verily, that skirt and tights combo does suck.""

Hahaha you bitches slay me.


Good luck getting laid.


You guys are a hoot and a half.

~~~~~

I want one of those crowns of thorns to wear on my head when every anyone who doesn't share my DNA comes to spend the night in my house.


Thanks for the laugh, guys. I really needed one today.

Oh, and yes, those skirts and tights do suck - verily.


See, I liked the skirts (except the velvet one, yikes), but yeah, not with shiny leggings. No, no, no. But paired with a funky tee and some killer boots? I think it could be fabulous.


Your Jesus quote cracked me up. Now, I can't stoppgiggling and my eyes are watering. Thanks! Must be something to with the word, "verily". heehee


Men in tights... hmmm, methinks I smell a movie reference.

Siren - I think I'd be more likely to need the crown when someone with my DNA comes to stay, but I like the concept.

Ms_flyover


Crap. Now I can't stop laughing! Damn you, TLo for brightening my day!


I am Catholic and when I got to the third row with the shiny tights the words "Oh Good God" popped out of my mouth.

And Skorts? (because that's what those look like) ugh.

I hope they were not mocking Christians with this.

As to the Burkha's - I actually feel offended by them; they just seem like the outward manifestation of subjegation.


Fox News indeed!
I hear the Santino and Uncle Nick classic playin in my head ... "Lighten up it's Fashiooooon!"~ Gary


Hmm... You'd think Givenchy would be able to get a hold of some better male models.

~L


andrew -
I agree with the shovel comment. The model wearing the "Jesus is Lord" T-shirt looks mis-shapen in the face.

but that doesn't mean I would kick him out....

put me in the "like the skorts" column. Reminds me of the lava-lava from Polynesia.


TLo said: "Besides, even Jesus would say "Verily, that skirt and tights combo does suck."

oh, you guys, thanks for the pm laugh!

but forsooth, shiny tights suck even more.....

what the hell were they thinking??

srq


I didn't get the religilous vibe except for a couple of the Quaker style shirts.

I get the concept, but felt that if they were going to go there, they could have gone for it. Bring on the full robes with massive cowls!

Just say "no" to men in shiny tights.


Forget saying no to men in shiny tights; say no to anyone in shiny tights, with the possible exception of people in costumes and maybe the occasional stage outfit.

I'm fairly meh about the collection as a whole. There seems to be a kind of slouchy/sloppy look going on in menswear right now that I don't care for. On the other hand, a few of the coats and jackets I liked quite a bit.

The manskirts in this aren't bad... not frilly and at least some pockets (so somewhat practical), but the styling really killed most of them as general looks for me.


Hate the earring in row 11 - don't know what they are called - when expanding the holes putting bigger and bigger round ??? buttons?


Just say NO to "man"dals and tights! I have no problem with men in sandals, but they do just look like glorified Tivas. And if women don't get away with stockings and open toe shoes anymore than it for sure should be a no no no with the guys.

That said...some of those guys were pretty ripped...


Sacrilicious.


It's called "gaging", and I could not agree more! I don't know why they hire models with them because they just look GROSS!

~K~


So if you put your hand over the top third of the pretty fella wearing the "Jesus is Lord" tee, it looks like a frumpy church lady! And that's fun! I liked a lot of this, just not the Mandals and Manty hose.


Something every experienced wearer of black tights knows: muscular calves plus shiny tights equals the appearance of bowleggedness.


Gotham, I had the same thought-- he looks very much like The David.

As for what would Jesus do? Considering the climate he lived in, he'd probably order the skirts and sandals in a lighter color and wear them without the tights.


I dislike when things are described as being witty when they aren't. For instance, this show. I do like a lot of the clothes, though.


I am really am digging on the men in skirts. This is a hell of a lot more masculine than alot of other mens wear that has come down the runway lately (I'm looking at you Donatella). The last few mens collections that were featured on this site remind me so much of what Irina showed for her PR finale (outerwear with tight pants and tees). I keep thinking it would have been wonderful if she'd have done a menswear collection. I wonder if that is against the rules.


Frankly I felt bored with the whole thing - it just looks DONE.
Skorts and shiny tights either together or separately are a big NO-NO either for men or women.
I have always had a big aversion for men in sandals - I just don't think men have handsome feet, and who would want to look at hairy toes ...brr!
That being said - those sandals look less offensive than flip-flops.
Some of those shirts look like they belong in the Lestat wedding collection - if Lestat had suddenly decided to become a Quaker and suck the blood of the righteous and meek.


If designers can show fashions for women that make them look like skinny, longlegged men, why can't they also make them for men that make them look like skinny, longlegged women?

Equal opportunity androgyny.


Some of the clothes reminded me of something a priest or nun would wear. I disliked the shiny tights, but I can see some Sisters I had at Catholic school growing up wearing those skirts with non-shiny tights.
I thought they might have been trying to illuminate the ocean of difference in both teaching and style of Jesus and the modern-day conservative churches with the sandals and crown of thorn necklaces with the more austere, buttoned-up clothes.
Probably reading too much into it...


This was a whole lot of meh. There's a slim chance this might have worked better if the sandals didn't look like Tevas. Overall, the clothes are unoriginal and the theme looks like it's trying to be provocative and failing.


I've come to accept unnaturally thin women walking the catwalks. It's so commonplace that it looks like they belong there or something, I don't really know, but seeing emaciated men on the catwalk disturbs me.
They look sad and ill. They look victimzed and I find it a turn off.


The second model is super hot. That's about all I took away from this.


I don't mind the skirts qua skirts. But if you're a guy wearing one (a) no tights and (b) keep your hands out of the damned pockets. Styling aside, the skirted models with their hands in the pockets look ridiculous.


Minor nit: I think it should be "doth suck". ;-)

Even in today's "enlightened" society, wouldn't you stand a good chance of getting beaten up almost anywhere but NYC for wearing some of these--at least the whole ensemble together? ;-)


SHINY TIGHTS! NO! AUUUGH! MY EYES! WHY, GOD, WHY?

If I just keep looking at that pretty David-ish young man, though, I'm sure my eyes shall be healed.


Jesus, Mary and Joseph.

Coming from a Catholic background rife with religious decor and rosaries placed upon pillows after making the bed (thank god not in MY mom's house) this fell kind of flat.

To me, the religious references were either too much or not enough. They fell in the gimmicky space between.

Sewing Siren's plan for the crown o' thorns is sound. Though I like the idea of carrying it with mein its own case, silently donning it whenever throughout the day I am feeling put upon. Now we just need to find a way to work in the Sacred Bleeding Heart of Jesus.

Skirts, o.k. With shiny tights they look like the dress version of cargo shorts over long johns, to go with the brilliant "dress Tevas" image Anon. 1:02 nailed dead to rights.

Honestly, there were some perfectly nice skinny pants, a decent top coat or jacket or two, nothing great about the shirts. I disliked the proportions of the deep blue suit - the jacket looked oversized against the skinny pants.

Looking at the Jesus t-shirt & skirt model, if you took off the tights and put him in a more casual sandal, he'd look a lot like a guy hanging out in basketball shorts. Except for all the "remembering to sit, move and stand so your undies aren't on display" annoyance. Which is why I don't see why most men would rush to skirts, except as formal (semi-formal?) wear.

The clothes are o.k. to meh, the presentation slightly off-putting. I think it's least-common-denominator gimmicky, kind of like the Jesus version of coming out covered in Hello Kitty references.


I like the collection a lot although I do not like the skirts with those tights.


I want those skirts. Now.


I find the entire collection depressing and silly. More cadaverous looking models...I've had enough of them. NEXT!!!!


formerlyAnon

Sewing Siren's plan for the crown o' thorns is sound. Though I like the idea of carrying it with mein its own case, silently donning it whenever throughout the day I am feeling put upon. Now we just need to find a way to work in the Sacred Bleeding Heart of Jesus.



I feel that the crown of thorns should be reserved for moments of supreme self sacrifice. As in In-Laws overnight visits.
The Sacred Bleeding Heart can however be pinned to ones chest on a daily basis as you see fit, for instance.
When you are in the kitchen washing the dishes , while every one else is sitting on the couch watching Jeopardy.
Asking someone to feed the dog more than 3 times.
When the toilet overflows.
or
Whenever you feel like smoking a cigarette.


P.s. I guess I'm dense (or mired in my own insular milieu) but I can't figure out if he's pandering to or tweaking the sensibilities of the French public.


OH Sewing Siren, *heart* you.


I like some of the jackets, and the thorn necklaces are certainly beautiful. But what the hell is up with the "JESUS IS LORD" t-shirt?


There's just NOTHING of interest here.

Compare against the other men's fashion shows you posted about recently. This is ostensibly bolder (men in skirts!) than the Bikkembergs show, but ultimately just as tepid and lame. The Versace show had interesting pieces with subtle innovations and was far more interesting to me.

Some of the pieces here are wearable, but nothing special.


Anonymous said...

I like some of the jackets, and the thorn necklaces are certainly beautiful. But what the hell is up with the "JESUS IS LORD" t-shirt?

````````````````````````````

I just hope he didn't spend a fortune having them custom silk-screened. I am quite sure that something similar can be purchase via a church supplies catalog printed on Hanes 100% Cotton Beefy Tees. Discounts for quantities over 50. Here in Texas/Oklahoma, that's a perfectly normal sentiment for a t shirt.


They had a short skirt but no full-on nun habit? If you're gonna do this, do it all the way, I say. Or like Dax suggested, some full-on Name of the Rose shit.


Clueless Jock

If you take away the thorns, the skirts and the tights, it's exactly like Helmut Lang, no?


I LOVE the fact that you're featuring a lot of menswear!

The concept is silly, but I do love some of the pieces. And I'll take the last shirtless model too please.


Besides, even Jesus would say "Verily, that skirt and tights combo does suck."
Amen and alleluia!

Isn't the 23rd commandment, "Man shall not wear skirts with shiny lycra tights"?


Why would Jesus say "verily," a word that is so clearly Middle English that post-dates his death by about 1,300 years? He's Jesus, not Robin Hood.


WOW that's strange - men is skirts and dresses, but somehow I like it - looks awkward and sexy and not feminine at all :)))


The only men who look good in skirts are Samoans. And maybe Irish/Scottish men in kilts.

All others just look like they are trying too hard.


Anonymous said...

Why would Jesus say "verily," a word that is so clearly Middle English that post-dates his death by about 1,300 years? He's Jesus, not Robin Hood.


Should they have used Aramaic? Would that have made you happy?


Anonymous said...

Why would Jesus say "verily," a word that is so clearly Middle English that post-dates his death by about 1,300 years? He's Jesus, not Robin Hood.


Man, the stupid shit that some people will complain about:

"John 5:24 Verily, verily, I say unto you, He that heareth my word, and believeth on him that sent me, hath everlasting life, and shall not come into condemnation; but is passed from death unto life.

Matthew 5:18 For verily I say unto you, Till heaven and earth pass, one jot or one tittle shall in no wise pass from the law, till all be fulfilled.

Matthew 18:3 And said, Verily I say unto you, Except ye be converted, and become as little children, ye shall not enter into the kingdom of heaven.

John 6:47 Verily, verily, I say unto you, He that believeth on me hath everlasting life.

Matthew 26:21 And as they did eat, he said, Verily I say unto you, that one of you shall betray me."


For the anal ones out there, a dildo or butt plug works wonders. Verily.


I'd love me a couple of those big hoodie coats! I'm not a big fan of the sandals. I find the shirts way too severe.


Jesus might have said that shiny tights are not ḥāzê. (Worthy.)

Seems a bit luxurious for a guy who hung out in the desert wearing sack cloth and ashes.


Ok, is there any difference between 25 and 27? If there's no difference, why would he have two different models wear that so close to one another? (Assuming this is the sequence.) Even if there is a difference, why bother when it's too subtle to see? This is why I don't "get" some fashion shows. >.>


Those sandals are AWFUL.

They look like high-end Tevas.
And I'm NOT gonna touch a man in Tevas.


SETTING RELIGION ASIDE....as we can do with many weird inspirations...

The tailored skirts come closest to what I think male fashionistas would wear if they wore skirts. They do not look out of place with the suit coat and they enhance a man's body quite nicely.

So if men start suddenly adopting the skirt, I think we might be able to point to Givenchy as leading the way.

However, I agree with Ally. Once you start giving men permission to wear black tights with sandals, men everywhere will take it as license to wear black socks with sandals.


I'm 20. I'd wear it....to the Folsom street fair.


Those look more like skorts than skirts to me


Verily I say unto you...

get thee to D&G; 'tis now NOT the end of color-dayz, go. Be jolly. Be frivolous. Ye' days of Pilgrimwear ye' have been freed from...

Bleh. The only thing religion goes well with is Exit signs.


@Divine Queen:

For the anal ones out there, a dildo or butt plug works wonders. Verily.

Thank you for the best and longest laugh I have had all week.


Anonymous said...

"I hope they were not mocking Christians with this.

As to the Burkha's - I actually feel offended by them; they just seem like the outward manifestation of subjegation."


My eyes don't roll enough for this.


The religious angle here is so half-assed as to be annoying. It's like they were all, "Ooh, religion gets people's panties in a bunch; let's throw some random signifiers on our completely ordinary collection and call it bold!"

Look, it's go big or go home. If you're going to be doing this, I expect ripped funeral cloths, Roman guards playing dice and stigmata. (And none of that namby-pamby makeup stuff, either.)


Oh Dear!


That being said....a few nice coats in there.


Interesting collection, but I can't help but think of the woman I saw the other day (in very cold temperatures) wearing sweatpants, a trenchcoat, and sandals. Something about sandals and long coats confuzzles me.


I for one am quite glad for guys with gages. yum
And the Jesus is Lord tshirt is a sartorial bumper sticker. And while not a bad thing, doesn't really qualify as fashion. At least, I hope it won't.


The one with the pea coat, skirt and mandals? It looks exactly like my all-girl Catholic high school uniform.

I would be more impressed if they had actually embedded the crown of thorns on their heads. If you're going to do it, do it right.


What does a fashion show featuring crowns o' thorns and "JESUS IS LORD" t-shirts say in a country contemplating the ban of veils on Muslim women, other than "We can flaunt Christianity all over the place, but screw the Muslims"?


Crown o' Thorns is NOT smart street-wear, especially around the neck. Consider its usefulness to an attacker.

I didn't read the skirts as skirts -- I thought they were Bermuda shorts. Paired with Cirque du Soleil shiny tights and sandals -- NO.

But skinny dress pants and sandals, sure, why not? Of course, I lived in Seattle for 20 years. You see that stuff all the time.


Those tights and skirt combo is way too feminine. Just the skirt by itself is fine.

Can I just say that this Givenchy show has THE most diverse range of models? There are so many different looks.


After Mel Gibson's (snicker) "Passion of the Christ" came out there was quite a lot of merch right along these lines. I especially remember the nail necklace. So I guess this is pretty derivative. I'm quite content with my collection of non-wearable Christian kitsch.


Honey, those aren't tight pants or tights, those are LEGGINGS. So wrong.

Some of the regular pants fit well but I don't care for the fit of the jackets. The Jesus theme is forced, if even present.

Some of the models are cute. Did you see the jug ears on the one model (last pic on left)? Cute.

Just say NO to mandals.


fashionablylate

Big big NO!


They look like compression tights-- worn by people who have had leg surgery!

The last I heard it's not fashionable to look like you recently had varicose vein surgery.


My first reaction was a firm, "Fuck, no!" But I guess in light of the collection's thematic concept, I should amend that to "HOLY Fuck, no!"


Gorgeous. Chic as hell. Dark sleek. Tisci! Personally I think that the style completely works, because it is after all a show, these boys aren't supposed to be strutting down the streets styled just like that. The 'tights' are necessary because the flash of bare boy legs would throw off focus. Love the crown of thorn necklaces, so Givenchy.


"Anonymous said:
Anonymous said...Why would Jesus say "verily," a word that is so clearly Middle English that post-dates his death by about 1,300 years? He's Jesus, not Robin Hood.

Should they have used Aramaic? Would that have made you happy?"




Oh please. You're both wrong. Everyone knows he spoke Yiddish.

--GothamTomato


Reading through these comments, I can't help but snicker a little at the fact that a vast majority of them say things like "Shiny tights are terrible!" and "Nobody should ever wear shiny tights!" and later that day Lagerfeld douses the world in shiny tighted splendor.


Why would that make you snicker?


but have you seen Alex McQueen women collection of boots-killers??? check it during Paris fashion week 2010 on http://www.fashionweartoday.com/fashion/fashion-weeks/paris-fashion-week-2010-crises-the-trend-setter.html


Okay, like the collection, but its a scrolldown fug -- "Oh, nice suit, holy Hecate, are those mandals?"

My dad wears mandals. Anything my dad (or random other Southern smalltowner wears) is not high fashion; it's a rip off. Add black tights, and you'll have the average guy look like a Texan high school football coach in support hose/mandals, right up to the Jesus shirt. Not a good look.


Okay, like the collection, but its a scrolldown fug -- "Oh, nice suit, holy Hecate, are those mandals?"

My dad wears mandals. Anything my dad (or random other Southern smalltowner wears) is not high fashion; it's a rip off. Add black tights, and you'll have the average guy look like a Texan high school football coach in support hose/mandals, right up to the Jesus shirt. Not a good look.


Good post. Only part I'd have to disagree with is your assumption that Ricardo used Jesus iconography and religion as a theme to primarily shock. I really don't think that was his intention. From interviews I've read, Catholicism seems to have a strong influence on his designs overall, just look at previous collections.


Why do so many of the tights appear to include knobs coming out of the knees? Rather like Frankenstein's neck bolts?





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