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Alexander McQueen Menswear Fall 2010

Brr!

FWD has the goods:

"Rifling through United Kingdom traditions and history has always been a key element in Alexander McQueen’s vision of fashion, and it was again this season when the designer’s inspiration came from whalers and seafarers for his Fall 2010 men’s collection."

"But McQueen, being of Scottish origin, is always more focused on the Celtic periphery than English center, so this collection actually had an Irish title, “An Bailitheoir Cnamh,” or The Bone Collector."

We like. As FWD put it, "suits so strictly cut they looked like they had been engineered." It's that tight, world class tailoring that keeps the collection grounded even when Alexander decides to go off on flights of fancy. There are some beautiful pieces here and we love the wit behind the idea of a collection inspired by knits that highlights the inspiration through prints that look like knits rather than actual knitwear. Although we do love that skull and bones sweater. We could do without the fur epaulets and some of those prints look more like pigeon shit than ice, but overall it's a visually interesting, technically flawless collection.























































Watch the show:



[Photos: Catwalking.com/WireImage - Video: YouTube/Lucianoburgos]



Post a Comment
120 comments:

Does he ever do anything wrong? I'd love to see him as a guest judge on Project Runway.


Ok, the clothing intrigues me but I REALLY DISLIKE the hair styling here.

~L


That jumper is stunning, I need it in my life. Not so impressed with the printed suits - sure they look interesting but when's the last time you saw someone in one or even part of one?


It is very intriguing... I actually like the use of the face mask things. :D :D


Must have the skull sweater -- but definitely agree with the hair styling -- ambiguous gender to be certain.


Not a fan of the printed suits. It looks like they were made out of upholstery fabrics. (that gold one in particular, I'm pretty sure I saw a couch just like that at a yard sale last weekend.)


Amazing show and I love the hair styling.


He did one thing exceedingly well: he kept all eyes on the clothes, 'cause he made the models all look like serial killers.

Some of the fabrics are gorgeous, but the overall effect leaves me cold, and not in a good way.


Love the look in row 5 and I think it is row 16 (acid/tie-dye b&w) and the next few. Despise that odd silhouette in row 13-15 - with the weird little short coat on top of other jackets?

Will skip comments on the styling other than to agree with L regarding the hair.


I saw the collection yesterday on nymag.com and I thought the prints plus the styling make the models look like wood bugs or night moths or both. I think visually it’s very interesting and it's rare when clothes can trigger such strange comparison but you still like it.


Wellllll. . . interesting. And different. Absurd without losing the thread (no pun intended) of actual clothing. I see what you mean about the pigeon shit prints, though.

Between the Prada show, the H&M skirts, and the parted-in-the-middle hair styling here, I see we're in the midst of a "feminizing" trend in men's fashion. I wonder what that's about.


There's something very Zach Braff in Garden State about some of those looks.


Love the hair! Very Spectre Agent Rosa Klebb.


Gorgeous! This man is a genius.


This reminds me of the old White Wolf games. Vampire: the Masquerade, anyone?


I fucking love him


have you seen the Cymbalta commercials where the people are depressed and start to blend into the couch?

Well some of these fabrics (especially at the beginning) seem to blend into the background and you almost lose the model - which may have been the intention considering the matching hat/masks.

Well made clothes. Fabrics I don't love, but I could appreciate a fashion forard guy in some of this. No question about his talent as a designer.


really stunning. the tailoring, the interesting prints and faux/knits, and that one sweater really grab me.


Who buys this stuff? That one coat looks like he walked under a flock of pigeons with stomach flu.


I love, love LOVE the sculptural knitting. I wish there was more of it. But I'm not loving those Alfalfa hairdoos.

-GothamTomato


Really interesting use of fabric - I wonder what the base was? Some of those look like almost traditional tweeds.


The tan suit with the little skulls and bones in the pattern-

Bad Ass.


I like most of it, but the face masks give me a very Hannibal Lector vibe.


Seems to me no one can accuse the man of lacking a point of view.


Hate the busy background, but the collection is, as always, very intersting.


Love it, bar the middle parting.

Btw, my son has a hoody H&M t-shirt from a couple of seasons back with trompe l'oeil chainmail.


How thoughtful that Alexander McQueen designed a face mask, in this era of H1N1.

And you just know the thought crossed Hillary Clinton's mind that a chain mail pants suit would be just the perfect thing for some of those foreign trips.

As for the rest of it...it looks like a chlorine bleach accident.


That's what I love about him. His styling might be insane, but underneath is extremely well done stuff.


Someone either needs to clue him in to Regretsy or ban his IP from it.


As separates everything works! The styling is great for the runway. I could see my hubby or even me wearing every piece.

TampaBay


That is one INTENSE collection. Agree with those who brought up serial killers/Hannibal Lecter. I wonder if the masks will be for sale too.

On the other hand, I am also getting an image of someone wiping off their hands on their clothes after having written for too long on a chalkboard or having rolled out some dough with floured hands.

Agree with TampaBay that the pieces seem to work as separates. I'd buy one, if I could afford it.


Okay... so I think the suits are awesome! But I couldn't help but think the models are on their way to fashionably rob a bank. The pic where the guy is holding the bag and wearing a mask didn't help.


Always have had a soft spot for McQueen be it in clothing construction, prevailing concept, or ability to wed the two...

.... That being said, why does it seem like the past designer spotlights have made their models a little shy of lovely? If it's not Westwood's homeless-haute chic... it's Prada's serial killer byline and now McQueen's Boy-Men of the Corn...

Or did D&G just win the roulette wheel with those sauntering pillars of Sicilian testosterone?

- K


Some of the hair styles gave me a "Dumb & Dumber" flash, which made me giggle.


Love the suits! Love the coats - except the cropped overcoats, which just look silly IMO. Some of the prints have a H. R. Giger-esque quality to them...not necessarily a bad thing, but not something I'd choose for myself. Also find the balaclavas & face masks a little unsettling, but it's an effective design choice for what he's doing.


Interesting prints. I like most of it, but I was so completely distracted by the Dumb and Dumber haircuts that it took away from the clothes.


Love some of the pieces.
The Dumb and Dumber bangs are distracting as are the schoolmarm center parts.


Here's the deal ... I like it, appreciate it, but I would never wear it.

As opposed to the Prada, which I didn't really like (with a few exceptions) or appreciate.

But I am still D&G, which was both fashion forward, fashion backward, and mostly everything wearable ...

I'd just need to be skinnier and richer to pull it off.

Just sayin-


I can see the folks over at Ravelry.com salivating over the skull and crossbones sweater. Bet someone will come up with a pattern for it soon!


Did the Vulcan Vidal Sassoon Academy do the hair? Freaky.

I think the prints on the clothes against the medallion and print background is interesting visually, but it's hard to me to really SEE the clothes. I'd kind of like a plainer background so I can concentrate on the fashion. But it's very McQueen. And some of the pieces are actually pretty wearable, including the suits.

Must. Knit. Skull. Sweater.


SmartAss said:
"Here's the deal ... I like it, appreciate it, but I would never wear it."

BINGO!
So that begs the basic question from many-a-fashion show: are we just supposed to appreciate them, or is Heidi right after all and we should be saying "I would wear that!" Exactly what is the criteria for a successful fashion show?


What did they do to their hair?

Allow me to rephrase, WHAT DID THEY DO TO THEIR HAIR?!?!?!?!

Love the tailoring, and overall liked the collection quite a bit. But the hair. Won't SOMEONE please think of the HAIR?!?!


Wow, the skull sweater is incredible. I'd wear that in a second!


They look like extras for an episode of Star Trek: The Next Generation. Maybe something with a Romulan story line. It's giving me the giggles.


Some of the short, rubbery-looking jackets have very odd shoulders. It's like the sleeves are set in so far out that in spite of the fact that the shoulders are actually a normal width, it makes the guys look like 90-pound weaklings. A very odd effect, and I can't imagine that's what he was going for. Especially when accompanied by the serial killer look.

But I do like some of the knitting prints. Not the pigeon shit so much, but the overcoats with the print of the knit cables and such are intriguing. It makes me want to try to reproduce the pattern in actual knitting.

And yes, that skull sweater is sure to have a copycat pattern appearing on Ravelry shortly! Although hopefully without the furry epaulets, which are just peculiar.


Some of those patterns are like "Thank you for the seizure".


Wow. That's some visual impact. Some of those coats are amazing. Not a fan of the "pigeon shit" prints. I like the skull sweater, minus the fur.

The suits I am less sure of, maybe because the fabric is so non-traditional, I'm not accustomed to it. Really HATE the ones that look like they've been white-washed.

All in all, it's an impressive show. And thanks so much for the onslaught of menswear collections. I am LOVING the chance to see so much for men all at once. (D&G still my favorite. That b/w tweedish jacket & vest. Amazing.)


Am I the ONLY person on earth who is so over the skulls and crossbones? Show me that sweater 2 years ago and I would've loved it. Skulls and crossbones are becoming (to me at least) the equivalent of Ed Hardy (douche-wear) and are beyond done.

The cut of these clothes is amazing and I have to say that my husband would rock the shit out of those pigeon shit jackets. Of course he's tall and thin and outrageously handsome. =)

Ginger


Interesting and hard to take in all at once. The Lurch like styling and the dizzying background distract me. Love the sweaters, not sure about the suits, dislike the fur trims. This will take a second look to absorb it all.


Most of that is fug meets lee. Especially the bukkake prints.


Absolutely beautiful. The prints are fantastic (well, a few are a little off, as you mentioned TLo), every shape and detail exquisite. Loving the orange jacket where the print lines up between the body and the arms, adorable. Of course I'm also a sucker for bowl cuts and epaulets, so the whole concept is working for me from top to tail. I mean, the knit-print shoes! Perfect. It's like McQueen carved some organic beings out of wax somehow, with the contrast between the vital prints and the architectural shapes.

Just at the end, the rubber coats threw me off a bit. The rest of the collection seems to absorb light and keep the eye constantly circling, whereas the rubber just shines light and flash right back out. Too much of a visual change for me. The rest of the show though, wonderful!


Effed-up (in the good way) and fascinating! Totally the male equivalent of those crazy "sea creature" looks for women.

Could do without the Vampire Lestat hairdos, though, ugh!

But that skull-and-crossbones sweater is awesome.


No Ginger you are not.

My SIL and cousin brought their Ed Hardy bags to the family Christmas party and a few people raved, the rest laughed.


So, to sum up, Celtic Vulcan Ninja Serial Killers. I like it!


Like many others, I'm intruiged.
Fabric treatment on many of these garments is amazing. However, some others are a bit twee. AMcQ is quite genius and never puts out anything less than extraordinary.


edina


@ Bill

Ha! That was hilarious! Good call.


It's too much. Not particularly masculine or wearable. So far, Dolce & Gabbana is my fave Are you going to do Armani?


I adore the trench coat with the trompe l'oeil cable knit pattern to it. The rest is cool tailoring and interesting, but THAT is the piece I would buy for my husband!


The hair reminds me of the dad in Back to the Future (when Marty goes back in time). Ugly to the point of distraction.


A very well tailored collection with some good pieces, certainly, but also ugly and the styling is distracting. I would be a little suspicious of a guy in a ski mask who looked like he was splattered with bleach if I saw him on the street. I would not gush over the great tailoring as I memorized his appearance in case the police questioned me about him later.

I'm also over the skull and cross bones. When even children's clothes have that design plastered all over them you really can't call it edgy any more.


The styling for his runway shows...is it always so menacing?
Thinking of the recent women's show too with those overdrawn red mouths. Spooky.


These are fabulous!
While I agree the skull and bones buisness has been done to death (ha). These prints are beyond fantastic. They make me think of Hieronymus Bosch. I would love to get my hands on some of that fabric.

The red haired guy reminds me of Olympic Snowboarder Shawn White and the fox fur makes me think of Olympic skater Johnny Weir.


So while McQueen's Spring 2010 collection was inspired by sea monsters, his Fall 2010 Menswear line is inspired by whalers and seafarers? Kind of appropriate.


Stirrup pants on men? No. just ... No.


Not a fan of the skull sweater.

The rest is great, though styling-wise, having absolutely matching bags would be a no-no as much here as in any women's show.

If I had a 34" or thinner waist, I'd be all over these. But, sadly, that ship has sailed.


Draco Malfoy and Justin Finch-Fletchly are going to Avada Kadevra to get these clothes.


honesty.not.pc

Some days I think I am really broadening my horizons and coming around to liking and appreciating high (conceptual) fashion.

Today is not one of those days...I don't get this collection. Why do the high fashion men collections seem so feminine (with the spectacular exception of that D&G)?

Guess it is back to the mall clothes for me :(


For as much as I love Westwood, I myself could only wear a handful of those looks.

THESE, however? I wish I had a sugar daddy to buy me every piece in this collection.


Stunning! I wish I could afford some of those pieces.


i feel like they're all going to murder me.
the clothes are amazing, as usual.
so i don't mean that in a bad way.
he's definitely one of my favorites.


My favorite piece is the suit that looks like plate armor. Amazing construction. McQueen does it again. His styling isn't always my favorite, but I love his clothes. Definitely one of my favorite designers.

And here, the models are thin but not scary thin. Take note, Prada.


Somehow, some of the caps? masks? looked like underwear. If there ever is a shortage of caps, McQueen showed us that underwear is an acceptable replacement.

JessicaDK


So bizzare. I dig the chainmail-looking one, and the skull and crossbones sweater is wonderful. McQueen is strange, and oddly whimsical, and I honestly see art here. Too bad the boys all look like aliens attempting to approximate male human.


Not appreciating this collection at all. Depressing.


Very very interesting. The background and some of these prints look like those things you stare cross-eyed at until an image appears. Me likey.


Frenchy McGee

There are no fur epaulettes. Those are all fur-trimmed hoods. The only epualettes in the collection are on the coat in row 4.


Linda from Chicago

Ve-r-r-y interesting. I actually love the prints, some of which seem to be a combination of snakeskin pattern and other animal skin. I would have liked to have seen the pale brown tones on a man of color from time to time.

There's something about this collection (shown with an Irish-sounding music selection) that reminds me of the IRA. The models are very "white" men, except for one or two Asians. Maybe it's the face masks that make me think these guys could be carrying weapons. Anyhow, the IRA could never afford McQueen's clothing!

Regardless, this collectin is so much more interesting than most menswear. Except for rock stars and the occasional military egomaniac, most men have dressed blah since the early 19th century.


Pedants are better lovers.

Anonymous said...

SmartAss said:
"Here's the deal ... I like it, appreciate it, but I would never wear it."

BINGO!
So that begs the basic question from many-a-fashion show: are we just supposed to appreciate them, or is Heidi right after all and we should be saying "I would wear that!" Exactly what is the criteria for a successful fashion show?


It begs the question? Really? I see no logical fallacies here. Just a question. Hmm, interesting.


Impressive as usual.


That backdrop and runway is killing me.


Bowl cuts? Is this a Jack in the Box commercial? Center parts (is there a bun in the back, boys?)

Capelets? Acid-wash b&w tie-dye suits?

Well, I guess I know nothing about menswear, except that the skull motif is tired in T-shirts for men, but maybe all new in sweaters.

Is it some sort of equality that the men are made as morose and ugly, as the broken doll female runway models -- so as not to distract from the clothes (or that any clothes look better in comparison?)


I actually think this is one of the most hideous collections I have seen in a while.


Love that Brown jacket in 7! The sweaters without the fur would be great as well.

More Vulcan styling. But overall, I get a very "Brazil" feeling from this collections.


I expect to see knockoffs of these print balaclavas on the skate & snowboard crowd soon. Good to have a practical accessory that screams, MENACE.

But I doubt the short-jacket-over-long-overcoat look will take off.


Some thought provoking comments here.

Makes me wonder - in thinking back over most of the collections/shows... why is it that we are expected to overlook all the ugly to get to the pretty?


Wonderful clothes, but ugly models and styling


MUST HAVE SKULL SWEATER. GAHHH.

And I love how perfect the prints are. I could see myself in any of those suits for this year's prom. :D


So in the past few days we’ve had menswear that is:

1. Socially insensitive
2. Effeminate (and not in a good
way.)
3. Twee
4. Gives new meaning to the
words "Fashion Victim"

*Sigh* No wonder we can’t get our guys to wear anything but t-shirts and jeans.


I will agree that these outfits are impeccably constructed but I don't think they are fantastic. In fact they remind me of the clothing that Ernest Shakelton and his men wore during one of their Arctic explorations. The others look like what he would have worn when he was scampering about London trying to get financing for his trips.


I like the fabrics and the patterns on the jackets. I just can't get over the way it's styled. The head and mouth covers make me thing of murders and rapists. Maybe I just watch too many CSI type shows.


I'm not seeing the "whalers and seafarers" influence although the skull sweater is vaguely gansey-ish.


Man I want to knit that skull sweater. Wonder if he publishes patterns.


Not crazy about the hair, but I love almost all of the clothes. I love this non-knit-fabric-with-a-knit-pattern idea!


Can't say I like it. The prints are loud and attract attention for all the wrong reasons. And one of the photos looks like Spock is modeling. With the contrasting patterns against the garish background, it's a huge eyesore. Not for me, sorry.


I love McQueen.

But, I feel like his focus was to lose the model in the clothing. Instead, I was distracted by the strange hairstyling.

Very strange, overly gelled hairstyles.


That Memento Mori Cable Sweater is to die for.

And the patterned fabric looks like it's inspired by Geiger's artwork.

Alexander McQueen is God.


LOVE THE PANTS. want, want, want!

but what's with all this chip-looking pleather on the runways these days? ick.


Love everything, I really do.


LaFemmeFataledeNY

The whole collection looks like ninja to me.


ConstantDater

Alexander McQueen can do no wrong. Plain and simple


Love the structured pieces that look like armor; a bit tired of those prints, he's been using them a lot.


Really?
REALLY?!
I wouldn't be caught dead in one of these pieces. And if someone did, by mistake, bury me in one of these pieces, I would rise from the grave and ninja the living shit out of them.
Hideous. Period.


Some look like a whole bunch of birds shit on them!


The fashion world answer to swine flu.


All I can think of is...Star Trek TNG on one of their away missions.


I love it! I thought the face masks were for the H1N1, not for robbing banks.

Kzspot


I love the patterns upon patterns, whether it makes fashion sense or not! Although I have to agree with you on the bird shit front.


Is it just me or does someone think Nazi when they see this. Penny for your thoughts.


I live in Chicago and it is goddamn cold here in the winter and I would rock the hell out of those balaclavas. H&M better pump out some knock-offs for me. I think the stiff, wide-shouldered coats would look better on non-models. A lot of regular dudes out there have nice broad shoulders, but maybe a bit of a beer belly; I think the silhouette would be much more flattering on them than a 7 foot tall bean pole kind of guy.


The collection is wonderful. I adore #23. Fabulous.

And totally digging the Crispin Glover hair. :)


Those models look like Norman Bates' mother.
After she was dead.


How is it that more people aren't horrified at the stirrup pants? I say again, STIRRUP PANTS!! ugh.


The skull sweater is even more wonderful if you know the story behind the classic "Fisherman's Knit". Each fishing family would have their own elaborate pattern knitted into their sweaters, so that if they were lost at sea, their bodies would be identifiable when the washed up to shore days or weeks later.


"The press were very mean to him after his last collection. But it didn't do him any harm. He just sells the same clothes with the word "CRAP" printed on them. CRAP shirt, CRAP jacket, he can't keep up with the demand for CRAP."

Claudia Bing on AbFab. A fashion visionary...


Anonymous 1:37 here, to amend the Claudia Bing quote. I left off the beginning: "Poor Alexander, the press were very mean to him, etc.


The hair reminds me of Jim Carrey in "Dumb and Dumber".


I love it all, except the balaclavas. I don't think they're bad as a concept, but I become incredibly distracted by them, and have trouble seeing if they're separate from the tops.

That said, I want the chain printed shirt with the baroque prints on the shoulder for my boyfriend. I can has billions of dollars, plz?


Clearly Mr. McQueen's crack pipe is done up in paisley this season...

But at least the slacks are reasonable.


Team Fortress called...they want the Spy masks back.


When can we buy this collection?





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