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Roland Mouret Spring 2010

Some pretty for a rainy (in our neck of the woods anyway) fall Sunday.


Style.com lets you know what's what:
"Roland Mouret found a few key ways of moving on this season. His antennae picked up the need to add something looser and more naturalistic to his line, and as a Frenchman, that oriented him toward a North African vibe. His father served in the French army in Africa, and brought home souvenirs that were part of the household when the young Roland was growing up, and thoughts of djellabas and Zouaves and jewelry from the souk occurred to him for Spring.
[...]
Mouret's focus on the utility aspects of modern dressing also led him to work out a design for a top—a square of fabric suspended on tapes that can double up as a skirt. That might prove a trickier sell, like some of the draped and folded pannier-shaped ideas he worked into the show. Yet Mouret's general direction—the broadening of his palette to include teal, mustard, and black-and-white jersey stripes, and the new sense of texture and richness in this collection—looked appealing. "

Lorenzo likes this one quite a bit more than Tom does. It's not quite as rigidly structured and form-fitting as previous Mouret collections. It still has that structured origami feel to it, but decidedly more askew than what we've seen from him in the past. We really love the muted colors and stripes. Lorenzo loves the fuzzy shoulders but Tom can't commit. Here's why Tom can't get completely on board with this one: while it's definitely full of interesting shapes, a lot of those shapes aren't particularly flattering. Still, it's got a chic, structured, yet easy feel to it. If nothing else, these are clothes that demand that you stop and look at them. Love those necklaces too.























































Watch the show:



[Photos: firstVIEW.com - Video: Youtube]



Post a Comment
59 comments:

This feels more like a fall collection than a spring one.

Love the makeup and jewelry though.


Both the makeup and the colors are fantastic. Some nice looks, but nothing really stands out to me.


I agree, it looks more like a fall collection. Plus, I'm absolutely baffled by the multiple pieces that have folds pintucked right into the crotch -- half the girls look like they're sporting wood!

But other than that, I actually like this. It's very pretty and rich-looking, and I'm even on board with the fuzzy shoulders (except maybe with those pretty blue dresses, which would do much better without).


LOVE IT!
LOVE IT, LOVE IT, LOVE IT!


I am a fan. For the most part I love. Not the jumpsuits, though.
The jewelry is fantastic.


Love the fuzzy shoulders. I made an observation a while ago that this was beginning to make appearances here and there (well, more like its "shaggier" cousin, the Chris March jacket) in music videos.


So ... just imagine the dutches looking at those crotch gathered garments ... Imagine Nina's eyes when they first see those fuzzy shoulders ... Imagine Heidi when she sees these hip enlarging pants, dresses and skirts... I don't think the word "pretty" is likely to be heard. Point of view? maybe. Good construction? Possibly. Bottom three? Most likely.


LOVE it, except the "gathered vagina" skirts.


I agree with the last anon comment, Duchess would rip them to shreds for the crazy crotch action, Heidi would say it looks cheap and Nina would question their taste level


CHIC is definitely the word to describe this collection. The hair and makeup are well, chic. It's got a MAJOR Katharine Hepburn vibe. I just can't get down with vagina pleating.


I love it all. Clean, classic, strong yet feminine looks! Esp. love the necklaces.


I agree that some of these get a bit unflattering, but I love the majority of the looks! The styling is fantastic as well. Not sure how I'd feel about the fuzzy shoulders outside of a runway show, but in this one, they're great.


Heidi and Nina have both are customers of Roland Mouret. Nina has been photograped quite a few times in his dresses. Heidi too, except she now seems to favor Victoria Beckham's rip of line of RM dresses.


FABULOUS
and yes, while the clothes are not the most flattering
a lot just need to be dressed with the right body type
a very thin girl with few curves can work a lot of hte looks
the tighter tops with wider skirts would work on a thin girl with wide shoulders
while the strong shoulders and furry things could work on a girl who's smaller up top with slightly wider hips
but the looks are definitely for young, adventurous women with pretty great bodies to begin with


, a lot of those shapes aren't particularly flattering

Some of the models are too thin for the designs and it makes the entire presentation look sloppy.


I agree with the first commenter that this is more fall-feeling than spring. And the little fur jacklets remind me of Logan's Caveman-vibe fur shrug. I like the white pant suit the best. Pity I look like death in white.


Can you give a collection "the Insane Crotch Award"?


When I was a kid I loved paper dolls... this site fills that need for me. : )

Oh, the collection. I quite like it. Don't care for that mustard color, the skirts and shorts that looks like they're being sucked between your legs, or some of the hip extensions -- the soft hip curves are nice, but the hard ones are too abrupt and just look awkward. Overall, an elegant, cool set of looks.


These are beautifully sophisticated clothes - they come across as luxurious and riche except, sadly for the 'fur' which looks more like muppet pelt than I can love.

That said, I am in Tom's camp. Almost all of the colors/patterns/shapes absolutely and without a doubt "work," but I think even if money were no object, they'd be the pieces you buy because you love how you want them to look on you - but you rarely if ever take them out of the closet because, in reality, you don't love how you look in them.

We peons of fashion need Nina to show us how to wear these.


Delicious. Love the textures...

As for "What Would the Duchess Do?" or "Is Nina Bored?"--at this point the Project Runway judges would have to put in some serious legwork redeem themselves before I take anything they have to say seriously.


I do love the softening of his work, but I'm not fond of the yoiksed-up crotch. It's interesting as a one-off look, but too much when you see it again & again. It's sort of a mini harem pant look? Maybe if it weren't centered it would be more appealing?


The clothes themselves are nice (even the fuzzy shoulders), but I'm not liking the styling of the models, and those necklaces make me think of strands of frog eggs.


Wow. The next time I want to buy clothes that make my hips, upper thighs, and butt look bigger, I will go right to this collection!

Until then, um.... No.


Very pretty....but what's with the Porno Crotches??


Pretty! And I lovelovelove the necklaces!


Couldn't stop thinking 'insane crotch.'


Some nice things, good cohesive collection, but those gathered-at-the-pubis dresses/pants just drive me nuts.

If you have fat thighs you have the SAME look when the clothing takes a friction ride up the inner thigh. It's distracting and not at all flattering.

Is THAT the look this designer was going for? Fat girls who need to pick at their crotches?


honesty.not.pc

why would I want to wear (or see someone thinner and taller wear) an outfit that looks like you got your skirt stuck into your undies after using the restroom?

Like the color story and the necklaces though ;)


honesty.not.pc

why would I want to wear (or see someone thinner and taller wear) an outfit that looks like you got your skirt stuck into your undies after using the restroom?

Like the color story and the necklaces though ;)


Just what the world needs... static cling chic. And if one home laundry nightmare isn't enough, you can have some pet hair too. On your shoulders.


I love look number 3, minus the insane loin cloth.
Actually, IMHO, not a bad collection, I like the colors and the jewelry, but am not liking some of the shapes and the fuzzy shoulders.
Thanks, TLo, what a nice treat for a lazy Sunday afternoon!


I've not had time to read through the other posts so hopefully this isn't too repetitive...

I love the styling, the necklaces, and the asymmetrical wraps; does anyone else get a "she got her pants stuck in her underwear" vibe?


I love the orange one with the short sleeves(minus the furry necklace) and I predict that will be Nina's next Mouret dress. The gathered crotch dresses are hideous.


This is a beautiful collection. I really like most of the looks...

But... dude. Those models look SICKLY thin. Someone needs to give them a cheeseburger... stat!


Lovely collection but oh my - the back view of one of the models - you can see every single bone - that just can't be good...
It's frightening to look at, takes attention away from the dress, and it's hard to believe that she is
naturally that size.


Not a Sz2 PR Fan

Oy Vey! The models are "too thin," but the clothes look like "fat girls who pick at their crotches."

First, I didn't know that fat girls picked at their crotches....but we already know that no matter what, everyone hates fat women, right?

Too thin, too fat, cankles, too skinny feet with veins.....at what point do women catch a break?


I love that hedgehog necklace at the end. The shoes are hideous. And why are the models all knock-kneed?


gorgeous. There's even a few jumpsuits in there that don't make me want to stab myself in the eyes.

Love the colors, love the jewelry, love the "easy" feel of the dresses. And it's really darn nice to see a runway show where there isn't a loose tit flapping away in the wind.


Most of this is looking soooooooooo dated to me. That orange fabric, along with all of the clothes executed in it, is terrible. The pieces in the striped fabric all look like student work to me. The strappy details towards the end of the collection and on a couple of the orange pieces are a total mystery to me; they do not work on a conceptual OR visual level, and they don't even feel relevant to the rest of the collection.

Maybe I'm just not the target audience of this collection (which is, admittedly, pretty likely), but this has to be one of the worst collections I've seen in a good while.


The palette is gorgeous, more autumnal it's true but that's actually interesting. For me, a thoughtful collection more successful in theory than execution, I really can't warm to the cut of most of these pieces. I will, however, profess love for the navy mini and nude/black sleeved dress in the final pics.


Is he trying to say; "Penis goes here?" with that pin tucking at the crotch? YUCK.

I agree that it looks more Fall than Spring but I like that aspect since I live in an area where Fall is typically WARMER than the spring! LOL.

I don't like the shoulders. The tight dresses were OK. As for the rest, I really don't need my boss to know I wear Bali bras--or what size--and no way no how can I NOT wear a bra--since I don't work at Hooters nobody needs to see 34 big D's flopping around.


I am completely baffled as to why the second model is wearing a bra. Either design the dress so the bra is not visible, or have her go without. After all, it's not as though these models actually need to be wearing bras.


I like a majority of it. My problem is, why are designers trying to force Jumpsuits on us? Unless you're pencil thin, NOBODY looks good in a jump suit!


I tend to like the above the waist more than that below the waist.

What woman wants fabric bunched up in front of her crotch? Really, who would wear that?
If the bunching wasn't there most pieces would be just fine.

Love the necklines and necklaces.


Not a fan of the *vagina wedgie*, however, there are some handsome, interestingly structured looks here and there.


Love it. It's a very beautiful, ccohesive, wearable and have I said beautiful? collection. Alright, he doesn't reinvent the wheel (or dress) but honestly, who did this season? It's really well-copnstructed, would flatter not only size 2 women (well, those crumpled-crotch-skirts wouldn't flatter anyone), the colour story is really beautiful - if a little suggestive of fall (esp. thanks to the furry shoulders), but that's alright in my book, and I love the jewelry.
Since "I'd absolutely want to wear that" is no design criteria - listen up, judges!- I probably shouldn't say it, but I'd sooo like to wear those dresses!


This collection puts me in a mood to fire up a nice trashing.

Let's see. Hmmm. Hmmm. Hmmm.

Panel 1 - Creating messy culottes by tying a ribbon on the back of your belt, shoving it through the legss, and tying it up tightly on the front of the belt? WTF? What "medication", exactly, was he on when he decided that women would find cinching the skirt up with a akinny ribbon thong ON THE OUTSIDE flattering, or even worth paying for?

Panel 2 - Sorry, done and done. This look is already sitting in the window of Great Stuff right here in Scarsdale NY. In purple, a much nicer color than this.

Panel 3 - Wait, what? WHAT ARE THOSE REPTILIAN TAILS HANGING OUT THE FRONT OF THE JACKET????? Fer cryin' out loud, this looks like an alien from Tim Allen's movie Galaxy Quest is having a hard time holding onto human shape.

Panel 4 - Don't let the Gidget the Flying Nun capelet fool you. This dress is SLUTTEEEEE!!!!

Panel 5 - Left side - So, he tied a square of fabric onto the lower half of a dress to give the appearance of a skirt? And this is fashionable how, exactly? Right side - Nice trench coat. Lizard tails hanging out the front are a bit of a distraction.

Panel 6 - So this is an attempt to take the basic grey business suit and make it silky and feminine? Well, DIDN'T WORK.

Panel 7 - Ditto. More boring grey.

Panel 8 -Left Side. OMG!!! Let's make the model as hippy as possible, shall we? Because, you know, that's EXACTLY what every woman wants to be.

Panels 9 & 10- Worthy of Project Runway, Season 6.

Panel 11= So it turns out that Christopher's hippy, poufy reveal outfit this episode was ahead of the trend! How depressing is THAT.

Panels 12, 13, 14 - Orange and black Halloween Costumes. What woman on this planet would wear that last look with the skirt bunched up right into the crotch? Does this designer even LIKE women?

Panels 15 to 21 - The vomit green stripe collection. Candy cane meets mud pile.

Panel 22 - Cobalt blue with -- what? -- dyed green road kill fur trim? Take away that hideous fur or feathers or whatever it is, and you've got the only two truly flattering dresses in the entire lot.

Last four panels - Somewhere under all this unnecessary crappy trim lurks a good dress designer. But his ouvre of punk rock trim (actually it's PUKE rock trim) totally undercuts the surprisingly tasteful lines of these outfits. All but the last one, of course, because it's SLUTTEEEEEE!!!


it starts off all butter and meringue and drifts into a full course meal of more complex notes. That's not a bad thing.

Some outfits don't work quite as well as others, but they're still nice.


yeah! ho! wah!

nice collection. love the rust and the mustard, love the stripes, love the jewlery.

favorite outfits: the hairy mustard shoulders with the black and white diagonal stripes, and the gold/mustard coverall.

least favorite parts: all those skirts that are eaten by vaginas.


No girl should ever want to wear pants or a shirt that gathers right at the crotch. There should never be a situation where people are staring at your crotch trying to figure out what is going on down there. That said, I do like some of the dresses that do not involve weird gathers. Particularly the last dress with the black shoulders and the black and white stripped dress with the fuzzy shoulders.


The more I look, the more I LOVE.
The colours are kind of a GENIUS choice for a spring collection. The colour story is so SO delicate it contrasts brilliantly with the powerful lines he creates with the silhouette. It's all quite striking.


This does look more fall-ish -- but soften the edges a bit and ungather the crotches a bit and I see a lot of very chic, wearable stuff here.

PS -- somewhere, Santino is weeping into his latte.


Crotch pleats are about as far from North African fashion inspiration as one can get.


Not a fan of clothes that make your hips, thighs and crotch look hugh.

Tulip


AUUGH, NO! NO JUMPSUITS! AUUGH!

I can't believe he killed tribbles for his spring collection. Then again, they do clear out graineries pretty fast if the population isn't controlled, so I guess it makes sense, sustainability-wise. Still, tribbles on my shoulders? Meh, though I guess Klingons would like it.

AUUUGH! NO! NO MORE JUMPSUITS! MY EYES! MY EYES! NOOOOOO~!


Ugliest necklaces I have ever seen! God! Rip those mothers off of their necks. HIDEOUS!


Okay, those garments flatter the stick-thin models, but will not look that great on anyone with more of a figure. I mean, how many Tilda Swintons exist in the world, anyway?

Number three reminds me of an orthodox Jew's tallises.


Am I the only one who finds it strange that for a collection with a North African vibe only two of the models used are people of color?

All that said, I'm seeing the thought, but not loving the clothes at all.


I kind of like it, but I scrolled down real fast because I hate the eye makeup, like, why. I mean, I guess it is supposed to be suggestive of kohl? but the taupe or whatever is not working for me.

Hate to say it, but maybe it would have looked better if there were more black models. Or maybe if the kohl were just black to start with, I don't know.





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