The Tom & Lorenzo Archives: 2006 -2011
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Gareth Pugh Spring 2010

Let's end the work week on a pretty note, shall we?

Style.com waxes poetic:

"If, once upon a time (the fairy-tale connotations are unavoidable), a Pugh show was all about the Beast, this time the focus was on Beauty. But she was eerie, a postapocalyptic princess. The first outfit—an unstructured trench belted over a floating chiffon dress in tone-on-tone shades of gray—set the mood, along with wrapped heads, makeup that shaded the models' faces as though they'd walked through an ash cloud, and a Matthew Stone soundtrack that featured a stentorian interpretation of the theme from Requiem for a Dream (required listening for all aficionados of glamorous doom). Pugh's experimentation with fabrics was as obsessive as ever, with feather-light tops, dresses, and pants that were micro-pleated or woven or slashed in crepe or chiffon. But the effect was a kind of moon-glow lightness, rather than the alien articulation his clothes once relied on. And when there was extreme structure, it was effectively used, as in lapels that unfurl the more they are unzipped on a cape-backed dress."

Okay, maybe "pretty" isn't the first word that springs to mind upon viewing this collection, but there's certainly an eerie romanticism going on. We love this collection for its shapes and textures. We wish the color palette wasn't so drab, but you can't have everything, now can you?

We don't know...it's certainly not to everyone's tastes, but we just like looking at it. Dammit, it IS pretty. In its own way.


















































Watch the show:



[Photos: firstVIEW - Video: YouTube/ErichBen]



Post a Comment


107 comments:

it reminds me of tilda swinton


I love the headpieces. LOVE.

It reminds me of a futuristic/space age take on the Middle Ages. Some pieces are truly wacky, but most of the collection is fabulous beyond fabulosity. J'adore.


I had a difficult time deciphering between the male and female models. the collection is somehow both ethereal and romantic and horrifying and repellent at the same time.


Some of the looks are amazing, I really like the collection.


I love the headpieces and the textures. Sadly, I feel like I can't fully appreciate the collection b/c the drab colors depress me as I scroll through the looks.


I agree the collection is innovative, but it is also sort of like scrolling through shindler's list.


These designs are pretty in the same way Tilda is so cool. So creative and evocative.


Sort of Mongolian tribalwear crossed with medieval court wear, spiced with a dash with startrooper uniform and all done in a Bladerunner colorscheme. Interesting but bleak.


Looks like a scene out of Ursula K Le Guin's Lathe of Heaven where the world turns gray.


I too had a hard time telling the men from the women. Maybe that is the point. Maybe I'm too southern and stupid for this collection.


Love. Want. Wish to God I were skinny enough to wear. And rich enough to buy.


LOVE IT! All that's missing is the scissorhands!


Wow I love it all. Especially the plays on Elizabethan bodice shapes.
And I would happily kill for the long grey striped knit dress.


To me the romantic ones were the ones with flowing fabric behind/ around them.

Some of them were scarier than others. But this collection is thought provoking and I appreciate that.


I'm not sure those bare breasted burkhas are going to go over very well with the Taliban.

I'm also disturbed at seeing men whose waistlines are skinnier than mine. There's something really wrong about that. Could you imagine the model audition for this show?

How long did it take to strap that one model into her continuous corset outfit?

On a serious note, however, I can definitely see some of the textures and the shapes being appropriated in ready-to-wear fashion.


and skinnier models = less fabric used; think of the environment people


I like the collection. And I like the presentation. And I don't mind that the models are skinny, but I disagree with the point that models are skinny to show off clothes. Some designers may feel that way, but to me the logic would follow then that designers also feel if you are above size X you do not have the body to appropriately show off clothing.

What a horrible thought for those who do not meet criteria size X.


Tim Burton would love this collection. Not my cup o' tea.


I would say this looks like spider webs - in a good way - but apparently spider silk is saffron yellow.

http://www.amnh.org/exhibitions/spidersilk/?src=e_h


Its an appropriate collection for halloween.


The unfurling lapel coat and the shredded, hooded coat are covetable.

I agree; it's damn lovely. I like the vibe, and it feels more interesting than many an artsy collection that's been shown here.


Since when did it become OK to send a topless model down the runway? I've been seeing this around more lately...maybe I'm not high fashion enough to see the point behind sending naked boobs down the runway. Anyone want to explain it to me?


Not so much Tilda Swinton as Helena Bonham Carter. I think I love most of it, though some of the dresses are a bit too stewardess-on-the-space-shuttle.


These looks are, to me, steeped in despair. Not ugly so much as depressing.


I love it. Want it all, especially the boots.


Man, I LOVE that 7th photograph down.


I also had trouble distinguishing the slimmer male models from females. It wasn't until I hit the first more masculine model that I realized it was a mixed collection, then I had to go back and look at the other and say, "Oh yeah, that is a guy."

They were all beautiful, but I found the peep-toes on the female models extremely incongruous. Peep toes say frivolity to me, and this was not a frivolous collection.


One movie comes to mind: Hellraiser.

Even so, many of these pieces are beautiful and amazing.

Annsunny


Intriguing. Very Burton-esque


It seems very steampunk to me, a mix of old and new presented in an elegant and lovely manner. It brings ancient galactic societies to mind, tech and tradition.


Cadavers in shrouds. That's all that comes to mind when I look at this collection. I see absolutely nothing at all pretty about it. Frighteningly artsy, maybe, pretty, not at all.
I just may have nightmares tonight.


TLo said: "Let's end the work week on a pretty note, shall we?"


OK, let's! .........

I'm waiting...........
..............


Zombie wear


Jamibythebay


Gorgeous. I love almost everything about this collection, that zippered lapel coat most of all. And those slim waisted boys, oh my. I agree with the medieval meets science fiction description a couple of other people have used. I don't find it scary or depressing at all, more ethereal than anything.


Love that long striped dress! And many of those headpieces are amazing.


Anonymous
10/9/09 6:42 PM

...."the collection is somehow both ethereal and romantic and horrifying and repellent at the same time."


Absolutely. Perfectly said.

But.....isn't it GRAND?!?!? I mean, sure, it's out there, but many pieces are stunning and interesting.

Oddly there was nothing I recoiled from or found hideous. The ones I didn't like still made me tilt my head in sober consideration. I looked at them as if to say "I don't appreciate your art with this look but I know it's only because I don't get it." lol

I really like this. It's very intelligent and though-provoking. And yes, I think it's pretty too.


Clueless Jock

Yes, romantic in a futuristic goth kind of way. Very beautiful.


Meh.

I can't get all excited about outfits that look like ash people emerging from caves in the year 3,401 after multiple nuclear winters.

Plus those half-Tuxedo lapels have been done to death lately.


Very Elizabethan in many places. I too don't understand the bare breasted looks. Great for the runway, but heck, they are not street legal. How are we to translate these looks for actual wear?


Doesn't exactly make me think "spring".


This work reminds me of James-Paul from The Fashion Show's caliber. He actually did audition for the same show but the British version, he was eliminated on the third show. And he is like as big as John Galliano, I gues Bravo made a mistake when James-Paul takes over the world.


very, very goth in its romanticism and structured deconstruction. Love some pieces, don't care for others, and am really, really tempted to buy some feathers to make more headpieces now.


Ech.
The Style.com thingy created an expectation that was completely different from the reality of the pictures. No like. I don't find it goth, fairy tale, romantic, edgy, interesting, or anything. Just ech.


Ech.
The Style.com thingy created an expectation that was completely different from the reality of the pictures. No like. I don't find it goth, fairy tale, romantic, edgy, interesting, or anything. Just ech.


Linda from Chicago

Yes, this does remind me of John-Paul but Bravo allowed viewers to decide on the winner which meant the most conservative look won, not the cutting edge look.

This collection is very, very creative . . . and exciting, therefore. I would say that someone's description of these clothes as medieval/futuristic/tribal is right on. Thanks for sharing these photos.


Wait, how did anyone fail to notice the dickies? We do not need to bring back the mock turtleneck, even if they do draw attention to your perfect breasts.


Linda from Chicago

Oops, I meant James-Paul . . .


Ghastly. How depressing.


fashionablylate

The styling is silly but the clothes are (mostly) fab.


I spent more time wondering if the models had H1N1 than looking at the clothes. Did anyone else think they looked ill?


something about it reminds me of Jay's PR season 1 collection ... but in grays ...


I like the shoes a lot, which were the main indications of whether some of the models were male or female.


I have to say the male models look waaaay scarier skinny than the female models. There is something about his clothing and designs that's slightly hypnotic. Or maybe it's just depressing.


Those Brits are the loveable loons of the Fashion World, aren't they? Followed closely by the Japanese, of course. And Miuccia Prada's there, too, somewhere.

These are like future shock come back in time to walk through falling world trade center dust.


I absolutely love it. It is fantastic.


Overall, I really like. Of course, I especially like the voluminous coat/jackets, especially the ones with the trailing tails or with several fabrics worked to create shape & texture. The garment in row #7 is riveting - though I have no clue what to call it, nor do I expect to see it on anyone outside of a film.

My quibbles: Not a fan of many of the form-fitting garments, many of them lack the richness or depth of the garments I liked best. The models' tragic trance expressions were very off-putting for me, as if they were trying to prevent the viewer from noticing the beauty of some of the garments. And, finally, can we PLEASE be through with zippers as trim/accent/construction gimmick?? By my count, they've been ubiquitous for about three years now.


I'm sorry, but these models look awful. The styling is fug. I can't even look at the clothes because of the awful styling. Did they include razor blades in the goody bag at the show?


I actually think it all looks a bit silly.


What yummy fun! The zippers, the lacing, the boobies, the six pack, the Nike of Samothrace- Great detailing. It even has a bit of "Where the Wild Things Are" vibe to it. Thanks, boys!


When I win the lottery and start my video game company, I will be hiring this designer to help me create the outfits for my epic fantasy game series.


I couldn't see past the walking skeletons enough to care about the designs. :c (


Someone asked, "What was the point of the bare boobs on the runway?" I think the point was so we could finally tell the male models from the female ones. Ohh.... I see... he's a guy, that's why he's such an ugly chick.


honesty,not.pc

Pretty...no, interesting in a Edward Scissorhands way yes.

It is weird but kinda cool. I HATE the freaky styling but that is what makes it so unique. The only peice I really like is the long sleeved full length horizontal striped dress.


This collection is from the Star Trek Planet of Apocalyptic Despair.

But much of it is lovely, lovely, and I WISH some slim, buff men would have the cojones to wear those cropped jackets!


Love the collection! Very futuristic! I have to ask, though, "what is up with the boobies on the runway?" There was another collection you posted with exposed breast. I don't mind nudity in magazines or sculptures, but it seems a bit much when you can see it live.


i'm not dorothy gale

Interestingly post-apocalyptic but pretty?


I pretty much love this from start to finish. The laced-ribbon tunic in row 7 is thrilling. And the ruined sweater in row 21 just kills me: I don't think I could wear it, but I'd sure like to make it.

But some of those models are scarily thin--not even model skinny, but starvation-victim skinny. That guy in row 11 must have the pants glued on at the waist, because there's no way his own frame is keeping them from cascading to the floor.


love most of the clothes, loathe the styling.


Yay! Dickies are back!


Looks like bad Japanese Anime.

Some interesting structurals but overall.....no thanks. Not to my taste at all.


I agree about the drab colors being a little depressing but I love looking at this collection. I probably spent at least 10 times longer looking at each individual look than most other collections. Love the headpieces and the laced up treatment on the booties.


Costuming for Dune. Eerily bewitching.


Totally Tilda (new sitcom?)

It kind of scares me.


Soo in love with this. I wish more designers did this instead of the futuristic stuff. Really cool, dark fantasy kind of stuff. All around such a cool effect... reminds me of Pan's Labyrinth or something (for some reason, haha.)


Okay, not really my cup of tea, but innovative, and that last gown is quite beautiful.

Interesting trend towards All Things Post-Apocalyptic...


Many of you have been so very articulate, I really can't find anything original to say about this intriguing mash-up of Bleak Futuristic Doom and Romantic Androgynous Steampunk.

I think it's possible that the spiderweb-like sweater is a combination of being woven on a loom, with additions of knitting and crocheting and tying incorporated. It reminds me of a very loosely woven wall hanging I created many years ago in a traditional weaving class. If I had only known where I could have taken my technique.... (which almost everyone else hated)...

I absolutely love the silver woven jacket in row 14, stunningly beautiful. Now that would dress up any plain little cocktail dress currently being created on PR.


So where's "the pretty?" These clothes, and models, are many things. Pretty is not one of them.

I'd like to grind the hip bones of those skinny boys, though. I'm thinking would be an excellent masturbatory aid.


" Anonymous said...

So where's "the pretty?" These clothes, and models, are many things. Pretty is not one of them."

Because of course there's an objective, universally recognized definition of "pretty."


I absolutely love it but I do feel it's more about show and less about fashion.


About the collection: Interesting construction methods kept it from getting too dreary. Although the bird-flew-into-my-head-and ate-my-face dress made me laugh, and reminded me of a certain auf'ed birdy dress on PRW.

SIDENOTE: Lord knows I hate to say anything in favor of hyper-skinny models, but my (almost) 19-year-old son is the spitting image of #11 up there. 6 foot 2 and 119 lbs. I've taken him to doctors and a nutritionist and everyone says he's just fine -- might not see 130 lbs until he's 20+ years old.

And, yes, he does eat. And, no, life is not fair. His biggest problem in life is finding pants that fit, so -- of course! -- I'm teaching him to sew.


@robin-m

Get that boy to Paris, ASAP! Let him make some money off of that 1 in a million physique!


Love the Elizabethan corset motif! Agree with Joan about the peep-toes being incongruous. Very pretty, overall. Especially like seeing the men dressed like that.


Like everyone else, I want that striped Dr. Seuss dress!


The runway on the Borg ship.

"Cadavers in shrouds" is also perfect, as mentioned above.

It's truly personal taste. I have friends who'd love this, along with youtube viewings of old Tool videos and Burton flicks. But it puts my head in a very icky, depressing place. Can't wait to click on a different designer's collection to knock those creepy cobwebs out of my synapses. Off I go...


Not my thing at all . . . I'm all for fantasy runway shows, but they need to show me something new. A new way of looking a bodies and clothes. This show strikes me as terribly dull, mostly because none of the colors or shapes are new or exciting or presented in a new way.

I love the second to last black beaded dress . . . look like what I imagine "The Enchantress of Florence" would wear.


I LOVE Gareth Pugh and all his oeuvre. So of course you're preaching to the choir here.

Plus I have this perfect deconstructed gray sweater that I can wear and reference these looks.

Love it all, but especially the ribboned piece in row 7 and, well, pretty much everything.


It was easy to tell the male and female models apart. The former had on real shoes while the latter were jacked up in heels (& some truly ugly ones at that.)


Such perfect androgyny.


Anonymous 10/10/09 11:51 AM said...

I think it's possible that the spiderweb-like sweater is a combination of being woven on a loom, with additions of knitting and crocheting and tying incorporated.

Nope its all drop stitch knitting with some interesting cross tie locations--but nothing new under the sun (meaning its all knit/purl).


Beautiful! I love it!


I like the feather headpieces in Alexander McQueen Fall 06 better, but the rest of this collection is eons ahead of what other fashion designers are doing right now. Love it.


These designs are great, but I really do question the health of these models. One picture in particular made me sick, the guy's waist is so small it's unreal. What are these people eating? Do they eat at all? This isn't sexy.


one word: "Labrynth"


I love the androgynous look of this collection. It blends well together. Not so sold on all the zippers It may be the way they're put in they could have dealt with that better, but I do like the idea of the outfit being able to be custom styled and shaped that way. It's artsy, it's fashionable, it's fantastic. High fashion goth pop art.


Some of this I dig, some of it I don't, but the thing I love best about Gareth Pugh is that his achievements in the fashion industry might lead to a few more people knowing how to pronounce Pugh. It used to be my last name, and it was a burden, but all it takes is for one person with that name to become famous and the world will (I hope) cop to the correct pronunciation. Which rhymes with Hugh, by the way.

Thanks for letting me work out my issues here, by the way.


I love some of the fabrics and techniques, but not the end result.


Umm....Dear God!!! Did you see those bouncing jugs?!


Eerie and romantic. But if that's spring, I shudder to contemplate what winter looks like.


Add some color, and Lady Gaga would be all over this stuff!!


Love the texture of some of those fabrics, the shapes, very interesting collection. Thank you, guys!


Tim Burton should have been working with this guy for his photo shoot!


Wow. AWESOME pieces. I love this whole collection and want it all.

-- Anun


Love that open weave sweater!


I like the shapes and thought the string sweater was great. The styling however brought to mind images of the Borg.


It's interesting and visually striking, but I'm not sure that I would call it pretty. Needs more color to be "pretty".


It is Tatooine pretty. Very arresting in a Star Wars sort of way.

I actually like some of the pieces. Now if I knew where I can wear them, that would solve everything.


It looks like Eastern Bloc Zombie wear. Make me want to watch a Halloween Horror movie.





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