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Vogue China: 60 Memorable Fashion Moments

Eye candy time.




Vogue China October 2009
"60 Memorable Fashion Moments"
Photographer:Chen Man
Styling: Ling Wu
Model: Du Juan

We're not sure what a "memorable fashion moment" is, and since we don't read Chinese, we're not going to find out any time soon, but the pictures sure are purdy. Click to embiggen.





Vivienne Tam Fall 2009 Collection/Pucci Fall 2009 Collection
Model: Elyse Saunders






Prada Fall 2009 Collection
Model: Stephanie R.




MaxMara Fall 2009 Collection
Model: Anja Rubik




Chanel Fall 2009 Collection




Chanel Fall 2009 Collection




Versace Fall 2009 Collection
Model: Sigrid Agren





MaxMara Fall 2009 Collection/Tao Fall 2009 Collection/Chloe Fall 2009 Collection
Models: Elsa Sylvan/Vera Gordysheva



[Images: TheFashionSpot/Kasaf/Style.com]


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65 comments:

Am I first???? No mention of Tiananmen square I imagine.


Gorgeous. Clothes and the pictures. But what in the hell are those boots with what looks like a calf-strap? I don't know about you, but I they remind me too much of the old man sock garter thingys. (A nice technical term there.)


Pat Nixon's Republican cloth coat is a great moment in Chinese fashion?????!!!!????

The boys in the Vogue HQ in Hoboken are smoking something really good.


How bizarre -- the supposed historic tie-ins-- but also beautiful. I especially like the two most iconic shots: the title page and the mallet-wielding worker. Those Prada shorts are atrocious, but the editorial picture is fabulous. (Though I'm with TVKimmy on the boots.)


Those calf strap things look extremely uncomfortable, not to mention pointless.

Which probably means they'll be EVERYWHERE come January.


TVKimmy said:
" But what in the hell are those boots with what looks like a calf-strap? I don't know about you, but I they remind me too much of the old man sock garter thingys"

And they are coupled with the big-shorts-over-sweater. I was trying to decide if that came down the PR stage if the judges would swoon or say it looked like they were wearing a diaper. The boots+diaper reminds me of the whole "Emperor's New Clothes" parable.

Other than that, the other clothes are lovely.


GORGEOUS!!!! The 59-69 photo is TO DIE. I want those boots NOW!


The dates are interesting. Someone's really got a cheeky sense of humor here.

1949-59 was the Great Leap Forward, as China sought to enter the modern age. Nice to see Vivienne Tam represented here.

1959-1969 was a problematic decade for China. Sino-Soviet relations fell apart in 1960. There were border disputes. Soviets began to pull out their investments in Chinese factories and China had to go it alone. No wonder the model has dirt on her legs! She's swinging that hammer with no sickle!

1966 was the start of the Cultural Revolution, so it is natural to see the all the military wear in the little side panels. The CR sputtered out of control in 1969 and a series of power struggles and attempted coups took place.

1969-1979 saw the decline of Mao and the rise of Deng Ziaopeng. I'm amazed that the iconic garment of the era is a red coat, and they chose Pat Nixon as a sort of icon. Nixon's visit to China was a turning point in the west. I wonder how Chinese really see it. This one was written in Hoboken, for sure.

The rest show China becoming increasingly Westernized and modern.

It would have been nice if the last garment had been from an up and coming Chinese fashion designer.

But this is truly a very ironic and iconic spread. Are you sure they're actually selling this issue in China?


I was there for one of the first. It was at an international science meeting in England and one of the first groups of scientists were allowed to travel to the west. Their attire was Mao suits, but in (taa daaa) pinstripes and one of the women PhDs had silver pinstripes.
I remember helping them place a call through to their embassy in London and I remember that the pinstripes weren't in wool but in a polyester.

I guess they chose to forget that part of the morph.


Christian said it best: Asians are fierce.

Love Du Juan--this is beautiful.


Anon. 11:52: ". . .if that came down the PR stage if the judges would swoon or say it looked like they were wearing a diaper."


DIAPER.


LOVE that MaxMara coat!
Gorgeous pics!


Of course the only color in China is red.


This is FABULOUS! You guys rock and Du Juan is rocking every outfit.


This is stunning! I love red, it's such a striking color, isn't it?


I loooove all of these shots, beautiful. The one thing I hate about these posts that centre around non-Western magazines/etc? Suddenly everyone is a goddamn East Asian social commentator. I know that fashion is art, etc etc etc, but sometimes I think people are reading a bit too much into this. I hope that when an American or European magazine has a shoot similar to this everyone is still cramming on their thinking caps.


Just some translation: the "60" refers to the upcoming 60th anniversary of the founding of the PRC. Thus the style moments include what people outside China might more commonly recognize as fashion icons (the qipao, for the 50s) and things that are iconic to the Chinese readers (and that had political origins in times when style was tied in to politics: e.g. the "revolutionary ballets" of the 1960s -- where the worker-girl thing comes from.)

Your tolerance for this sort of thing may vary. Tiananmen Square sure is there (pics 1 & 2), but that place has a lot of different meanings to people in the PRC (the main caption of 1949-59 image: "No single place captures the emotional impact of this period like Tiananmen Square. The qipao is China's 'little black dress' -- of course it's the right thing to wear to a celebration.") And what should they, a monitored publication, do beyond that? Knowing some of the history behind these images does make me a little queasy at first, but then I ask myself: why should I (or anyone) expect Vogue China to be less superficial and/or utilitarian about their history than any other Vogue?

Quick translation of the icons in the boxes (actually not all Hoboken-esque):
49-59: Color photos and the qipao
59-69: Learning from Lei Feng and revolutionary ballets: Red Detachment of Women
69-79: Pat Nixon's Red Coat and Foreign Clothing in a Sea of Blue and Gray
79-89: Everybody's Wearing Butterfly Sunglasses [what those big 80s glasses are called], Dance a Little, Fall in Love [about how people used ballroom dancing as an excuse to snuggle up -- definitely still the case among college students when I first visited in 1990!]
90-99: Cell phones and Everyone's Wearing a T-shirt [about slogans on shirts -- working within boundaries, see? The one shown used to have (bad) English versions saying "Flying on Wings of Feeling".] The caption to the main photo talks about the influence of Hong Kong movies on men's style.
99-09: Du Juan as international supermodel and the usual vague blather about the future of fashion. Nice shot featuring the Rem Koolhaas CCTV tower, though.


This is really beautiful. Thank you guys!


WOW! Awesome editorial and I love that first dress. It's so beautiful!!


Sorry for the inadvertent double posting of a long comment. More important -- Megan: right on, and thank you.


Ginger said...

Those calf strap things look extremely uncomfortable, not to mention pointless.

Which probably means they'll be EVERYWHERE come January.


lmao - SO true!!


"We're not sure what a "memorable fashion moment" is, and since we don't read Chinese, we're not going to find out any time soon, but the pictures sure are purdy."

Eh, yes you are.

October, 10th is the 60th anniversary of PRC, I think this edition is to commemorate that.
1949 – 1959: The qipao (Cheongsam) is the Chinese “little black dress”. Can you imagine that the previous generation grew up wearing this? Even Mrs. Zhou (wife of premier Zhou Enlai) is wearing one for her wedding anniversary.
1959 – 1969: During this period, the image of a blue collar work is all the rage. Comfortable, durable clothing allows movement to be even more lively.
1969 – 1979: Nixon visits China in 1972, his wife wore a fiery red coat. During these 10 years, the majority of clothing were blue, green and grey. During the Ping Pong diplomacy, a foreigner wonders the streets of Beijing. His interesting outfit draws a group of onlookers.
1979 – 1989: Girls who like to look pretty can dress up again! Western restaurants, dance clubs, fashion shows…these trendy places are a new eye point (?)
1989 – 1999: On Beijing’s Houhai Bar street, cellphones in hand, Hong Kong movie’s stars’ make up, and big curly hair… like the hottest pop song of the age: Follow your intuition. During the first summer of the 90s, you can see the signs of “cultural t-shirts”. Printed on these simple t-shirts images, words, slogans. On the seen t-shirt is the song “Follow your intuition”.
1999 – 2009: The newly erected CCTV (the state owned TV station, not the CCTV in Europe and stuff) is China’s new landmark. The first Chinese supermodel: Du Juan. Fashion is no longer limited to one’s wardrobe, it also changed the look of a city.

Suzq: I feel like they would, there’s nothing really controversial here. For most of the sensitive part, they’re talking in code.


LOVE the Chloe shoes! Those are gorgeous and I'd die to have them.


Vivienne Tam dress, Max Mara coat, Dior Suit...to die for!!!
Beautiful layout. Thanks so much, Tlo for posting this!!! I love.


Thank you for the translations, guys. Our readers are fabulous!

XO
T Lo


Thanks mrsteasdale-- much more interesting now.

I find it interesting that they chose Pat's coat as the style icon--

The pictures are beautiful and the women's clothes lovely.
I could tell when we reached the 80's because Don Johnson and Miami Vice apparently made a huge impression in China...


just a little quick edit:
79-89

these trendy places are a new eye point (?)

these refreshing fashion terms have appeared, wearing a french dress to dine at the Maxim restaurant built in 1983


Interesting juxtapositions (on so many levels) to see these beautiful clothes and layouts in Vogue China. Not the least of which is how unexpected to see this tribute to quality when what China is largely known for manufacturing (& exporting) is cheap knock-offs.

--GothamTomato


I freaking love the Tao skirt. Then again I love anything Comme des Garçons.


Missed two of the 70-79 boxes: Mao buttons and Loving Perms. Had to add this for the latter: after describing how everyone flocked to get perms after the "opening up" of the 1970s, they say: "at that time, you could often hear this kind of dialogue: 'Sister, did you hear? Big One, his wife, she had her hair permed!!'" Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure they're talking about bitchy gossip about Mao's wife. Now that's fashion!


Those tan, thigh high boots with the attached belt remind me of old-fashioned maxi-pads from the 60's and 70's.


That Du Juan is stunning.


Love these pictures. Made ever so much more interesting with mrsteasdale's translations. Thanks!

And Du Juan is amazing. I hope we see more of her in Western magazines.


i'm not dorothy gale

The grandpa boots reminded me of a Jerry Seinfeld bit - he was perplexed at the style of tying the sleeves of a sweater around the neck and wearing it like a cape. He surmised that the next style would be tying socks around the ankle.

Since belts have been worn low, at the waist and above (and I mean you, Shelley O!)it follows that the belt would inexplicably migrate to another portion of the anatomy.


I LOVE the Prada boots. I don't care what anyone else says.

And this shoot makes me wish there were more Asian models around because there are so many beautiful Asian women, this model included.


HATE the Prada outfit and shoes. LOVE the Vivienne Tam, and I might have to kill someone for those shoes. To die!


mrsteasdale, you rock...in two languages.

too many cats, I'm jealous!

Megan... I know how you feel. Sometimes, I just want to look at pretty pictures of people in leather, masks and chains and I have to suffer through endless commentary on sado-masochism, objectification, etc... and to me, it's just fashion.

I think fashion reflects politics. Mao had a huge influence on fashion in China. It's an interesting spread on so many levels.


Thank you for this - I had no idea there even was a Chinese Vogue.


One correction to InF's post, PRC's founding date is Oct 1st, not 10th which granted is an important date too.


It seems to me that they were paying homage to important fashion editorials or influential trends in modern Chinese history. Very nice pics and clothes. I approve.


Because of this article and the wonderful comments made, I have spent the last two hours looking up Chinese fashion and history on Wikipedia.

Thank you!


I love the pictures and the fact that they used all red dresses.


FUCKING GORGEOUS!! What else can I say? Thank you, Mood, I mean, Tlo!


Amazing! Simply amazing!


I love this editorial. I love the Tiananmen Square shot and the smartly dressed guards in the hutong neighborhood shot (I was in China last year and it was amazing!). I love the use of the striking red. And I love sock garters so those boots are calling my name. Fabulous.


Really gorgeous editorial, especially the first and the second picture.


Tiananmen Square! How fabulous!!!!


Love the model, she's gorgeous. Thank you for this, Tlo! You guys are always posting fabulous things :)


F.A.B.U.L.O.U.S.


Lovely, lovely pictures! Dazzling editorial! Especially love the shot of the mallet wielding girl. Way to evoke a period in China's fashion history. Thanks TLo!


STUNNING!!!!


Ulgh.

If they are celebrating China's communist party majority, then why aren't the dresses made by Chinese designers?

This isn't creative or visually stimulating. It is propagandistic.


And before anyone says anything: Vivienne Tam is based in NYC, has an American Citizenship, and went to school in Hong Kong during the 99 year British Rule.


Fascinating -- and gorgeous, too.

Thanks so much, TLo and your translatin' minions.

I've nothing erudite to add, but I can tell ya'all that those Prada boots were heavily featured in a W spread posted by TLo recently. In black & in RED. The Academy.

http://projectrungay.blogspot.com/2009/09/w-magazine-academy.html


Marketing Diva

The model is WORKING her as off. The clothes are wonderful. I love the photography. I am not sure about the Chinese fac=shion theme but Honey she worked it


hm. its interesting that so many people loved the prada boots in the w magazine: academy spreads, but they're receiving so much negative feedback in this shoot.
i still love them :)


Beautiful editorial! Thank you, Tlo!


The boots are gorgeous, I want them so badly.


89-99, love it. I have always loved the biker/Akira look.


i think i also have to kill someone for those pucci shoes. i could DIE. black, strappy and shiny. i can't take it. gorgeous. freakin' GORGEOUS.

absolutely love the spread, beautiful pictures for sure. the only eyesore, for me, were those hideous prada diaper shorts, though the magazine photo actually made the whole thing work.

thanks for these lovely pictures!


Gorgeous! Now THAT'S a Red China I can buy into!


Du Juan looks stunning!!!
Its nice to see an asian face in high fashion.


WOOHOO ASIANS!
AZN for the WIN!





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