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Christian Dior Fall 2009 Couture


Time to get back to the ladies, wouldn't you say?

Style.com:

"For Fall, John Galliano took the collection back to the dove gray salons of the Christian Dior headquarters in the Avenue Montaigne to show almost in the way the clothes were traditionally presented to clients and the press in the 1950's. And to be honest, sans the heart-pounding stress, stadium-size crowds, and general hurly-burly, it was a lovelier, more intimate parade to behold.

Galliano said he'd been inspired by behind-the-scenes documentary photographs taken more than half a century ago as Monsieur Dior dressed his cabine of mannequins for shows. The conceit of half-dressed models informed the collection, so that hip-emphasizing basques, girdles, lace-edged slips, and petticoats were hybridized into brightly colored variations on the classic wasp-waisted silhouette of Dior's New Look. "

We fully support a return to "a la maison" style couture shows. The one-of-a-kind pieces deserve a more intimate atmosphere than a tent filled with a thousand people and besides, it's a long tradition in couture.

What we can't really get behind is the styling for this show. We understand that these events are populated by (and planned by) people who have seen it all when it comes to fashion and it's difficult to find new and interesting ways to display the clothes. We get that. But sending the models out half-dressed because you were inspired by old backstage photos of half-dressed models might seem interesting if you're John Galliano, but it makes for a decidedly half-assed presentation (literally). It seems like something you'd see in an editorial rather than a fashion show.

As for the clothes, they're beautiful and very, very Dior, which is something of a problem. There's little, if anything, that looks new here. Beautiful, yes, but also very done.








































Watch the show:






[Photos: Getty Images - Videos: YouTube/MichelePierro]



Post a Comment
76 comments:

I adore these clothes but I completely agree about the styling of the models.

And that background! Where the hell are they, a wedding in Queens? That background is so busy it is fighting with the clothes for attention. Not good.

But the clothes: They are gorgeous!

--GothamTomato


bitchybitchybitchy

I suppose if one is going to repeat something that's already been done, paying homage to Christian Dior isn't a bad idea. Although the clothes have been done before, these are still lovely to look at.


The clothes are absolutely beautiful. Please let this be the new trend and let the '80's go! Please please please!!!!


They remind me of Barbies - elaborate clothes, beautiful girls and half-dressed.

-dark_blue_mania


Wow. A real ambivalence. Beautiful clothes yet dated looking. still beautiful though

and that styling-inane at best

Frank


Holy CRAP!

Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous clothing DESTROYED by the styling.

I'm not feelin' this aTALL!


I don't mind beautiful, but dated looking clothes. Minus the corset, girdle and bra styling ( remember the "I dreamed" ads for Maidenform?), I loved every piece. Not apropos for today, surely, but gorgeous to look at!!!


Who gives a flip about the clothes - those HATS!

drool. Of course, other than a British wedding or a traditional African-American Baptist church on Easter Sunday, I know of literally no event I've ever attended at which I could wear one (without drawing unseemly attention, that is). But until that glamorous life appears, there are fashion shows and the Internet.

I like most of the clothes a lot, the faux fitting room presentation is neither here nor there, but it really doesn't do the clothes justice.

GT - you are right. My first thought about the background was "funeral home," but the color scheme is more bridal!


I actually kind of liked the styling (or the concept behind it anyway). I think it would have been more effective if the lingerie worn was a little more modern - the garter belts and bloomers just pointed out how dated the clothes actually look. A modern contrast might have made it a bit more interesting.


Beautiful, but a bit boring.


another laura

Reminds me a little of "Gigi" where Aunt Alicia takes Gigi to her couturier - of course the model was fully clothed in the film - and also with respect to those divine gowns and vagina hats strolling throughout the film. Sigh. I love "Gigi"


Presentation...uggg! But, the clothes were stunning, the hats were beyond gorgeous, and if you were able--with all that was going on--to notice the shoes...retrofabulous! I am lusting in my heart!


I like the styling. So many times the designers have so many pieces and accessories going on it's hard to actually see the clothes. Here I can see every line, every tuck, etc. And they are gorgeous to boot.


LOVE the hats - not that I'd have any occasion to wear them.

HATE the "half-assed" styling. Completely ruined the show - made an intimate setting WAAAAYYYY too intimate. I want to see the whole look, thank you very much.


i think they are really beautiful.


C'est moi, c'est moi Lola

Holy Sh*t!

I know YSL got a lot of crap back in the early '70's with a look that critics said screamed streetwalker, but the styling puts that to shame!

'Hello Hooker' indeed....


I love the hats as well, I wish I could buy one. I'm actually going to a wedding next week and have been searching high and low for an appropriate hat, and these are just DIVINE.

I rather like the styling of this show, myself, but I'm a big fan of 1950's underwear and styling. It reminds me of this catalog, which I get a kick out of: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hollywoodplace/3639033158/in/set-72157619433934755/


The clothes were gorgeous and I LOVED the make up and hats. The whole look reminded me of my sister's vintage Barbies. I have a question about the shoulders rolled forward pose. When and why did that start? I remember Christian Soriano instructing a model to do that on PR. I just think it is so strange.


formerlyAnon on 7/7/09 at 10:40 AM said... "Who gives a flip about the clothes - those HATS! Of course, other than a British wedding or a traditional African-American Baptist church on Easter Sunday, I know of literally no event I've ever attended at which I could wear one"

The Kentucky Derby or Royal Ascot. If you can afford one of those Dior hats you can afford to take up horse racing! LOL! LOL!

TampaBay


Some of the pieces I ADORE and some are just okay. The purple suit and the first yellow jacket are my favorites. The styling doesn't bother me that much, but I do prefer the looks that aren't half undergarments.


ACK I forgot to give credit to all the hats which are FABULOUS and really bring the collection together.


annrr said:

I have a question about the shoulders rolled forward pose. When and why did that start? I remember Christian Soriano instructing a model to do that on PR. I just think it is so strange.

7/7/09 11:21 AM

I don't know the origin of the pose, but I remember during PR4 that pose was referred to as being "editorial"- TLO, can you enlighten us?


LOVE most of it. (Biggest exception: the puffy green concoction.) Too many gorgeous ones to name. The styling, though, eh; just silly. The second model (purple ensemble) looks like she's wearing a fanny pack.


Very 50s Barbie and Dita Von Teese. I'm sure she's going to be wearing most of this collection soon.

It's gorgeous and I'm with aliD. Let's bring this back and get rid of the 80s redux.


Is it styling, or is it part of the look? Will the glitterati wear just the pieces or recreate the whole image?


I love some things about this collection. Dior's house knows how to do a blouson hemline on a skirt that looks elegant, instead of ridiculous. They also understand the high drama of the big skirt, doing more than one profile version of them. I have no problem with inspiration from the past, as so many designers do look back, in one way or another. The padded shoulders of the 40s were brought back, for example, although often merely tacked in, in a slipshod manner. Most of all, in the Dior collection, I love the Return of the Important Hat! lol This is high fashion and high drama, and may not be a practical approach to apparel, but it is definitely a glamorous one. Christian Siriano harked back to the Coty Girl with his big hat on PR, and people seemed to love it. There is a new Galliano couture Big Hat pictured online, which makes a strong statement, without being garish or absurd. Hats can complete a look, perhaps more strongly than anything else can.
--Lina


I LOVE these looks! I know it's because, like previous posters have said, it's very vintage barbie, and love my vintage Barbies. I also love Dita Von Teese.


Beautiful pieces, and I love love the hats.


Galliano is amazing but is he losing some steam?


I actually like the vintage vibe, I love fashion from the 40s and 50s. It's like looking at pictures in an old fashion magazine.


I agree that showing the clothes with visable undies is a bit of a yawn. But I love them anyway.
The love the first jacket and leopard hat. I would wear a skirt over the girdle though.
And that ocelot dress, Mmmmm. Delicious.


Beautiful clothing. The styling is silly.


The exuberant vintage vibe is fun, the clothes are mostly gorgeous, but the underwear on top is the dumbest idea in a while. Look at that second dress - beautiful without the weird garter belt on top. As someone else said, it would be a beautiful spread in a magazine, but not on the runway. Many of them look like something on a WW II pinup calendar. Put the rest of your clothes on, girls, and SHOW ME THOSE HATS!


Lovelovelove the clothes... but does anyone else want to wrestle these girls to the ground and PUT SOME GODDAMN PANTS ON them?


annrr said, I have a question about the shoulders rolled forward pose. When and why did that start?

It's certainly not recent. Here's an Irving Penn shot from 1950 of Lisa Fonssagrives in Balenciaga: http://www.nga.gov/exhibitions/2005/penn/images/penn_ss4.jpg

And Suzy Parker in 1952 by Richard Avedon: http://wunderbuzz.files.wordpress.com/2008/07/suzy-parker-paris-aug-1952.jpg


It's all very 1980s Dynasty and if you like that sort of thing, then you and Haven can fight over it! I'll be sitting over here in 2009 with my pants on.


I too had to overlook the insulting "styling" and yes the pieces of clothing are beautiful...

But if ANYTHING is inappropriate and in bad tatse - enough to make it hard to see the clothes, it is a camel toe, even if the model is so thin it is a baby c.t.

Ugh


I LOVED THE SHOW! I thought the clothes, inspiration, and plan of action were amazing truthfully. I did a rightup on www.poshmag.tk but I mean, I really kind of liked the half dressed type thing.
It gave a nod to the painstaking construction of a couture garment as well as really allowed anyone watching the show to hone in on certain peices and not be overwhelmed. Ugh... just a thought.


The hats are beautiful. I wish women would start wearing them again. They're so chic.


Love it! Fab!


Totally disagree about the styling. But I'm a burlesque dancer, so I'm biased towards undergarments.


Oh that Gerbera daisy hat! Hats just make everything better. Maybe TLo's army can bring them back?


ooooooooh

This is such a pleasure to see. Love the luscious floral details on sleeves, skirts etc. Beautiful stuff. I am so outside this world - of fashion shows - that I have no idea what is passe or fabulous. But I can say that this show reminds me of many anxiety induced dreams I have had . . . . OMG! I am late for my final and I forgot to put on my skirt!


ooooooooh

This is such a pleasure to see. Love the luscious floral details on sleeves, skirts etc. Beautiful stuff. I am so outside this world - of fashion shows - that I have no idea what is passe or fabulous. But I can say that this show reminds me of many anxiety induced dreams I have had . . . . OMG! I am late for my final and I forgot to put on my skirt!


OK, I get the premise of the "half-dressed models," but the 6th model down has her girdle on OVER her knee-length purple dress. WTF?


sorry for the double post


I adore Galliano and his work at Dior,but it is decidedly reminiscent of his previous couture collections


I love the clothes. If we're going to repeat fashion, let it be fashion class -- like this.

And yes, that background is busy, but I can ignore it most of the time, except when it looks to be an extension of the clothes themselves. Had to look closely on a few of those.


WOW! Absolutely breathtaking!

I don't absolutely adore the idea behind the styling, but with the exception of one or two (those two lilac dresses),for me it doesn't deflect from the utterly beautiful clothes. I consent with the other posters - bring back these clothes!!! I've come to like wearing 80s-inspired fashion, but rarely any period of fashion was so flattering for any woman's body-type, like the 40s and 50s.

But, clothes aside; Let's bring hats back!!!! I adore hats in general - and these are fantastically dramatic. They would fit me perfectly... I've got to get a milliner-friend to make such a one for me. ^^


Love, love, love the hats! I want the red one to wear to Red Hat Society events! I'll sneak in. With a hat like that they wouldn't think of throwing me out!
It's funny, a few threads back, I mentioned the movie The Women (the original) and the fashion show shown in that and all the wonderful hats in it.


I, for one, am glad to see garters return. They are so feminine, yet wearable in hot weather.

This "no stocking" look has me depressed. Not everyone's legs look good undressed.

Garters, on the other hand, are magical!


Sort of looks like something out of 'Funny Face'.

I'm surprised that Audrey didn't wear more Dior. Or did she?


I am a fan of Galliano's designs but I have not been enamored with his styling at all, either for Dior or his eponymous line. I like the collection a lot, I actually think it is one of his more straight forward haute couture collections, the undies angle is distracting.

I suspect that I would appreciate what he was trying to do with the states of undress more in an editorial or campaign than in a presentation / runway show.


Anon,
The couture most closely associated with Audrey Hepburn was Hubert de Givenchy. He also designed her costumes for the film Funny Face.


Wow sorry but the models look like cougars. This is embarrassing.


The clothing is beyond gorgeous, but the styling just looks as though the model was interrupted in the loo. And that's just not pretty.


Oh my goodness gracious, I love those hats. If I ever got hooked up with one of those hats, I would probably die of joy. They are just so completely fabulous. The flower type one in pink practically makes me cream my pants.


"It's all very 1980s Dynasty and if you like that sort of thing, then you and Haven can fight over it!"

I'm not seeing '80s at all in this collection. The '80s put emphasis on the shoulders and long jackets/short skirts. This is all about the New Look, with short jackets, tiny waists, and full skirts.

The half-dressed models makes it appear that he didn't have enough time or ideas to make complete outfits. And the undergarments on top has been used in editorial spreads fairly recently.

The clothes are gorgeous but look historical--not much to bring them up to the current times. I love the full ball gowns. And the hats are lovely.

That hunch-shouldered look is called "the couture pose" isn't it?


Enid Soto said...Wow sorry but the models look like cougars. This is embarrassing. 7/7/09 4:53 PM

The sad thing is that many of them are probably not over the age of 20 - that's fashion for you, get a bunch of little girls and tart them up as grown women.


Willa Shakespeare

This collection seems sooo literal. Yeah, it's modernized a little by being a little crazy and a little slutty, but all-in-all these be costumes. For rulllz.


All I can think is that it seems a bit too much like a Madam showing off her stable of "ladies"...


I love that red flower hat and I would kill for that leopard print dress. The rest... meh. The clothing is pretty, but nothing new or truly WOW and the styling just sort of cheapens it, which, considering this is freakin' DIOR, is bad. That and I hate the hair on most of the ladies. It's like they want to be Madonna from the 80s, and couple with the clothes (or lack thereof), it again just seems cheap.


DROOL city, USA. did that just glam up my day or WHAT?!


I like 11 (bright yellow) and 19 (sheer black on top and nude on bottom). It is amusing how not-young the models (have been made to) look, but I'm not actually used to runway (well, there's not exactly a runway here) models looking attractive, so w/e.


Love Love Love!!!

I love the salon setting. So elegant.
I love the posing on the stairs.
I love the hats and gloves, and the handbags are out of this world.

It's all not very new, but it is very pretty and classic and very wearable. Smart move, I think. And the half dressed models are great. A lot of couture is kinda ridiculous. It's big and nutty and it's sometimes hard to see how it relates to the body and I think it gave a view into that. and Seeing the intimates in an intimate setting blah, blah, blah.
Besides, couture lingerie, how freakin fab is that?

And Galliano wasn't dressed as a pirate, or a astronaut, or a Indian chief, but in a lovely suit. WTFWT?


It just hit me that the too sheer "skirts" over some type of undergarment... reminds me of the too sheer blouse w/o a cami that Daniella did last wk..


fashionablylate

There is sooo much to love here - the gorgeous clothes, the hats, the amazing shoes, love the makeup, love the dramatic posing. The salon backdrop completely works for me, the monocromatic color makes the vibrant colors of the clothes really pop. It was all absolutely divine - (sigh) EXCEPT for the half-dressed models! I get what he was going for, but that part didn't quite work for me either. I'd still take this show in a hot second over the drowned-rat miserable-looking models we get in some shows, or Alexander McQueen's goth-clown-from-hell look.


My late mother once went to work fully dressed on top, but with only a white slip on the bottom. (She forgot to add the white skirt. It was quite early in the morning.) I can just think of her being ahead of her time, now.

The clothes are very lovely though.


the wacky half-dressed styling only makes me want to see the real show...and if that's what they were going for, well, it's an odd thing to be going for.

Love the hats & the old Hollywood look though.


Ellen M -- I agree that some of the silluettes (sorry I can't spell) are modern. I think what makes it feel Dynasty 80s to me are the neon colors, the hats, and the way the animal prints were used (overpowering). The volume on the dresses also feels very 80s prom dress to me. Especially the orange dress w/ the HUGE poof. They are nice to look out, just not something I would wear even a more tame version of.


Ha! Ha! Everyone who thinks they are done wearing hosiery and going bare-legged, think again. Mr. Galliano has put the cabash on that noise.


Oh, I really dig the styling - it foregrounds the performative and constructed nature of the fashion show, it highlights individual pieces without piling 20 of them on so none of them are recognisable, it evokes his inspiration. No, I like it. It does feel very dated but that's kind of fun too.


vagina hats a go go!


Things happen for a reason...Nothing TLo has offered on a post got to me or evoked a total response as did this one. GALLIANO! Being a refreshed fasionista, learning & participating visa vis PR & these blogs, I did know a tiney bit about Galliano (Chris March's fav) but this turned me into a Believer with cream & sugar on top, to say the least. Galliano! For me there IS NO OTHER DESIGNER so perfect was every bit of this collection, show & how massively MUCH thru his genius eyes Galliano perfectly corrected what's been wrong with 15years of women's fashion.

G & I are about the same age. Was a time ladies stockings, garter belts, girdles, gorgeous lace embellished half slips, taffeta slips, real bustiers, soft sheen/material bras, black bras/underpants were all the currency of unspoken absolute femininity, the "first set of garments" worn by young ladies/all ladies prior to dressing. It was an entire language of body wear, sexual/sensual as a rite of dressing as a woman. So defeminized have women become (I don't say "ladies" because that ideal has been thoroughly trashed and abandoned in this era) that Galliano showed what has been "lost" in these 15+ short years as EQUAL in importance to the heavenly confections --dresses, swooping skirts, satiny full tops, sculpted sleeve treatments, suits and to-die-for hats, gifted back to all ladies here in a master's terms of inspiration currency.

The under garments as accessories/ peek-a-boo outer wear made its point to me immediately. Its use was symbolic, not literal, all eye-candy tho it was. As soon as the first fawn with endless legs arrived down the stairs with nothing but a 2009 treatment of a "girdle" in neutral with garters and gorgeous stockings, and a little something else as a garment, that Galliano breathed life & hope back into the gaping hole of a women's rite to divine lingerie, ESPECIALLY including stockings as essential apparel. He GOT IT. I am in his debt. NO ONE ELSE GOT IT!

I am a very modern, up-to-date fee, but I have refused to accept losing what Galliano has most graciously re-introduced as perfect and classic womanliness, down to the blue eye shadow, up-turned black eye-liner, french-crimped upswept hair, makeup like a bon-bon...this man found my crushed heart and lionized it. Dignified, beautiful under garments/stockings symbolize and validate of-age female human sexuality. I thank him and I wish this master every good thing in his life. I am a believer.

This man loves women and we are all his daughters.


yes ...very vintage Dior. but fabulous! I LOVE the daisy hat





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