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Chanel Fall 2009 Couture

Nous sommes déçus!

Style.com sets the stage:

The Chanel couture for Fall, shown in the Grand Palais on a stage set with giant white N° 5 bottles, had a comparatively toned-down atmosphere. Lagerfeld's single conceit was a play on graphic proportion—suits and dresses with a longer flyaway panel in the back, all shown with lace tights and stiletto-heeled booties. As the show progressed, he offered up some remarkable looks: a "smoking" redingote with a ruffle-necked blouse; a crinolined dance dress; pretty, light chiffon dresses in nude or midnight blue with ruffled trains. The outstanding look, though, was the one where the panel device was the least evident: a superchic spiral-cut dark blue dress with an asymmetric "tail" lined in red. All the Chanel craftsmanship was there, of course, and impeccably achieved.

That's all well and good for Style, but we remain disappointed.

But before we get to that, we simply must highlight this sentence:

"The Chanel couture for Fall, shown in the Grand Palais on a stage set with giant white N° 5 bottles, had a comparatively toned-down atmosphere."

Oh fashion press. You never disappoint us with your silliness.

Anyway, why are we disappointed? Because there's nothing interesting or exciting going on here. It's all very expected; a costume designer's version of Chanel. Sort of like the Dior couture show where everything looked undeniably Dior but nothing looked fresh or interesting. Pretty clothes, but boring too. What does it say when the Chanel resort collection was far more interesting than the couture collection?











































[Photos: WireImage/GettyImages/thecelebritycity.com]



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76 comments:

The only thing that struck me, in a bad way, was the dark tights with the light colored skirts and light colored shoes! The only thing that achieves is to stumpify the women. Terrible.


Ugh. Those stupid "lengths" (which is apparently what Chanel calls trains) look horrible and unnecessary. The only pieces that look Chanel in this collection are a few of the suits. I love the three red suits and the one white one with the high collar. Everything else is at best meh and at worst tacky.


It's a sad, sad day when you look at a Chanel suit and think, "meh."

Really, what's with the Christmas trim? Some of them are depression-era pieces, and some are just awful: all the minis with trains or curtains, oy! So cheesy looking.

I like only a couple: the gray bucket-pocket dress, and the long white gown with the swirlies on top (though it's paired with the swirly shoes, which is ridiculous).


Why do they feel the need to add a piece of shmateh to the back of all these dresses? It may work on one or two, but mostly they look like a costumey after thought.


I am against leggings that look like a skin disease.


I forgot to mention that the tights and shoes are horrible. The tights make the lovely models look like they have some horrible skin condition and the shoes are not attractive/too matchy matchy.


I ADORE that red suit with the leopard collar, but the rest is eh to wtf?

I especially dislike the jubilee jumbles. And I think those flyaway panels just may signal that KL is out of ideas.

--GothamTomato


It's too hot to be looking at wooly shit.


Its okay I guess, I'm just not excited like I usually am for a couture collection :( Is that redhaired model the same one from the Lacroix show??


"Talk about mudflaps, my girl's got 'em."

Yeesh.


sara


I'm sorry, are some of the models wearing the finger equivalent of leg warmers????


I don't love the tights, they look nasty. The red suits also scream Nancy Regan to me.


I do think the coat in the fourth image is pretty divine.


i will admit i am not versed in what is a correct collection for a specific designer. but i think this collection is really pretty.


Sorry, I'm too stuck on the "Children of the Damned" look so many of the models are trying to rock. Exactly HOW does that make someone want to buy these clothes?

All in all, the whole collection seems like yet another coffin nail in the high end fashion world. They need some fresh ideas (well constructed fresh ideas, recent contestants on the Fashion show should skip offering their suggestions) quickly.

Meh.


This comment has been removed by the author.

It's amazing work when you click on the pictures and see all the details, but I'm not loving it, and I hate all the tails.


I'd buy any of the suits if they were on the 50% off rack but the rest is a big fat CLUNK!

Any Chanel suit on sale is a good buy because they are classic and can be worn forever but nothing in this collection, as TLo commented, is new, different or fresh.

I wonder if Reco had knowledge of the silver/white/black evening dress with the long sheer see through skirt. LOL! LOL!

TampaBay


Wow. Aside from a few (and I do mean *few*) dresses at the end, this looks like a bunch of old people clothes — rich old people. Dull.


Pooing fabric


Feh. My admiration for Lagerfeld has waned in recent years...maybe they should bring in someone new.


"The Chanel couture for Fall, shown in the Grand Palais on a stage set with giant white N° 5 bottles, had a comparatively toned-down atmosphere."

:D


What I hate about Style.com is how they emphasize the magnificence of a particular look, and then you can't find it ANYWHERE. That dark blue spiral-cut outstanding whatever? I see a short blue suit with a red-lined train (so not the outfit where it is least evident) and a blue petal-like ankle-length dress, with a coat not lined in red. So where is this brilliant dress? Style.com has no pictures of it that I can find, so I can only assume they've missed the outfit or mislead us, though I should probably just guess they didn't take any pictures that actually showcase the interesting part of the garment.

Because yes, in a couture show especially, all we want from detail shots are repetitive face pictures of the models to show how one cat's eye liner look can be so different on fifteen fifteen-year-old girls.

Although for this show, at least, they did get detail shots of the actual clothing, so maybe they've finally started moving toward an emphasis on the FASHION.


I am not crazy about the "tails" either. That has kind of a studenty feel to me.
I do like the dresses made out of fringed rosettes, though.


Yep. Chanel.com's lineup of the looks, and I found it almost instantly, though it's hardly my favorite outfit. #23 in their lineup, and style.com has a shot of the back of the model, showing a red ribbon empire belt and a HINT of red lining at the tip of a pointed "train".

Hardly outstanding anywhere, but especially here--though in this lineup of crazy 'trains', it's certainly one of the most normal and wearable.

and I'm a Fashion person, sworn Galliano fan, so for me to find comfort in "real-world" from a Couture show is a sad day for me, indeed.


I kinda like the color palette, and some of the suits are pretty; but I'm sick beyond death of the tails! I've seen waayyyy too many of them tacked on by PR contestants trying desperately to make their garment "interesting."

JMHO.


I really need to put the crack pipe down because look #18 seems to me like something Haven would design for Ivanna Trump when she was married to 'The Donald" in the 1980's. Would someone please chime in and reaffirm that I am not on a bad drug induced trip?

TampaBay


Did Karl get a Bedazzler for his birthday?


Judging the show by the three aspects of couture that we all look for:
innovation
art
techinique
I would have to grade this one a C-. There is no inspiration. The artistic elements are too pedestrian. So while the technique is impeccable, what you have is a ready-to-wear collection with expensive fabrics and beading. This does not push envelopes, set trends, or cause controversy. Perhaps what Style.com was trying to say was that the collection itself added to the "toned down atmosphere."


I get the feeling Coco would have ripped those tails off as that one unneeded piece before going out the door.


All I can think of right now is - "Don't bore Nina." If she had been there, and I hope she was, I feel that she would have been bored to tears. Lagerfeld, you must heed Tim's advice...


Without the gawd-awful styling in a lot of these photos bumming my senses out, I actually like quite a lot of the clothes. Hell, if it's couture we're talking about, then alterations (like ditching or cutting back) on the trains is nothing.

But when I remember that this is suppose to be couture, I'm let down. Yeah... a couple of magnificently made Chanel suits, fine. But for couture, I'm expecting to see why the garment deserves that distinction and unless Lagerfeld had all his highly-talented seamstresses crocketing those doilies for those two or three dresses/coats, I just don't believe this qualifies as couture.

Maybe he's taking this whole 'economic recession means we gotta get real' thing too far.

Having said that, if a lot of these clothes were hanging off racks at a decent-priced shop, I'd be grabbing them to drag to the changing room.

It's weird. It just seems like nice clothes at the wrong price point.


Ugly.


I like the peacock looking dress with the train - was thinking, "Oh, if only Sweet Pea had created a dress like that for her final elimination challenge!!!" I think it is interesting and beautiful.


I love the red suit with the leopard collar. Gorgeous.
The rest is okay but the trains and the nasty stockings and finger warmers have to go.
Tampa Bay, I thought the exact same thing as you with that one look. In fact the theme to Dynasty ran through my head.


Lawdy! It's like they've taken the worst of the 80s and resurrected them (tattered and all).


Willa Shakespeare

Um, yeah. This is why I don't really like Chanel. They never do anything all that different 'cause they're tied to Coco's limited aesthetic. That and Karl Lagerfeld is too busy calling people fat and wearing the same thing every day to design something actually original. Tweed suits, what a fucking shock. *Yawn*


Good point about this not looking particularly couture. I do rather like the circley things on some of the designs and I like the dress made out of shiny round trivets.

Those horrid booties...they make MODEL legs look stumpy. Why would a woman who eats food wear those things?


the first lulu

I didn't think Dynasty, I thought STAR TREK—an alien race of couture cat-women.


The mush-mouth hats, the trains, and the round pot-holder dress are ... just awful

In looking at the first few rows and suits, I was thinking, ok not bad... but then???


Not crazy about the collection but the embroidery is to die.


Oh, no. Not more Dumb Donald hats.


I like looks 5 and 10...not particularly innovative but certainly beautifully done and totally wearable.
The trap doors and silly hose are well, just silly.
I'm pretty disappointed, and as another poster mentioned, is Lagerfeld designing for the recession?


"What does it say when the Chanel resort collection was far more interesting than the couture collection?"

I think it means they hope to sell to people who are more concerned with value than they are in flush times - who want to be able to keep the looks in their closet (or pass them on to their daughters or poorer relatives) for decades. With a good eye (and sans the long trains & lace tights & gloves) a lot of these could be worn with confidence even after they are no longer "this season." To my mind, that includes several of the suits, the grey front pocket dress, and the long, fur trimmed sweater coat (?) (without the demi-train I think I see at the back).

Miley Ray Cyrus and her ilk should look at this collection - there are a number of dresses that (possibly sans trains!) I think might work for a pretty young girl. Especially: the brown "party dress" look on the right in the 12th row, the peacock/pinata dress on the right in the 14th row, and the black goth-ish 80's club dress on the right in the 16th row (that last one maybe with the train.)

I am not wowed by the pieces that look like they were inspired by those make-your-own Christmas ornament kits that come with a styrofoam base, 300 pins, 100 plastic beads and 300 sequins. (Last row on the left, particularly.)


7th dress up on the left, two words: 1980s, prom.


Agree with most of the posters - hate the trains, the dark tights and booties look terrible, and the finger warmers are just odd.

However, there are a few pieces here I quite like. I especially love #28, the dress made up of colored circles. Feels very Jay McCarroll to me.

Curious, what does everyone think of the silver dress, #34? It briefly brought to mind Reco's last dress, which had that transparent bottom half, but this I quite like, despite the 80's vibe those shoulders are giving me.


cleamontis@aol.com

The tails made me think of beavers - or duck-billed platypuses - platypi? Very silly very unattractive.
cleamontis


fashionablylate

Gotham Tomato said: "I ADORE that red suit with the leopard collar, but the rest is eh to wtf?"


My thoughts EXACTLY!!


"It's too hot to be looking at wooly shit"

hee hee! this phrase will live in my heart forever, anonymous,

I like the blue coat thing in picture #14 (a redingote?). The suits are all right, but I agree - the fabric tails are silly, that weird sparkly suit with hugenormous shoulders is awful, some things are pretty but nothing is breathtaking.

the pictures of the Lacroix show give a clear example of "breathtaking." should be required viewing for every designer, stylist, etc.


what's with the trend of sticking floor-length tulle or chiffon on the back? Not really graceful and I'm seeing it everywhere lately.


The mud flaps are really ugly but assuming that they could be removed, then I love all of the suits. As noted, there's nothng particularly new or fresh about them but they're beautiful and classic. And isn't that what you want in a Chanel suit? If I ever buy one - and I will, someday - I plan to wear that sucker for at least 20 years.

The floaty trains worked well on most of the party dresses. I thought they were really beautiful and I can easily see them on the red carpet or at galas.

None of this stuff is innovative or pushes the envelope in terms of style but it's beautiful and wearable. In these uncertain times, that'll do.


I saw "Bruno" this weekend and I couldn't help wishing that he had ambushed Lagerfeld. That might have been funny. Nothing else in that movie was. Didn't Howard Stern do this sort of thing 20 years ago?


Anonymous on 7/15/09 at 2:12 PM said...As noted, there's nothng particularly new or fresh about them but they're beautiful and classic. And isn't that what you want in a Chanel suit? If I ever buy one - and I will, someday - I plan to wear that sucker for at least 20 years.

Anonymous-when my granny died I inherited three of her Chanel suits from the 60's-80's by defult because I was almost her exact size. Anyhoo, the skirts were worthless but the jackets I still wear with everyting.

If you cah afford a Chanel suit at full price, find one on a sale rack or find one at a vintage store..GRAB IT and RUN. The price of the investment will pay fashion dividends for 40+ years.

TampaBay


There are a few (very few) that would be interesting with some editing (mostly of ripping off that hidious sheer bottoms and random fabric tails). There was one dreass, the kinda poufy strapless one covered in multicolored circles, that I can see some of younger hollywood in (Like Miley Cyrus). The white one with the silver emblems on it looks prmising, if only they had the fugly sheer skirt removed. Did anybody else think of Rico's last dress when they saw all the sheer skirt attatchments?


@SuperBrat-I DID!

TampaBay


WFT is with that blue dress? Looks a little Versace don't ya think? I mean, yeah, it's all very Chanel and all but i think goes off on a tangent after the little suits. Not a big fan of tails.... they seem a little haphazzard. But it's not the most awful thing i have ever seen.


Some of it's kind of interesting, but for the most part it's either boring or ugly.


Most of what can be said about this collection has been said. Nothing innovative, but with a few alterations - those mud flaps/trains and strange sheer bottoms and those horrible tights - there are quite beautiful and wearable pieces that will outlast one season and that I'd be quite happy to wear.

BUT!

Those hats! Je les adore beaucoup! Am I the only one who right now wishes she had one of those? Tell me, it's not only me! ^^


Is it just me or do those hats remind anyone of Darth Vader's helmet?


http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_FW86_jO7k_A/Sl3NzwNF2gI/AAAAAAABG00/fZQRY5T58Ck/s1600-h/Chanel%2BFall%2B2009%2BCouture%2B25.jpg

How could this West Seal, glittery mess of a dress be made by Karl Lagerfeld?


Here's the thing. I went to the Chanel show at the Met a few years ago. Everything Coco designed, I looked at and said to myself, "I could wear that today and it would look fresh and modern." Everything Lagerfeld designed had a (figurative) date stamped on it.


FashionFan026

I absolutely love - love Chanel & Karl Lagerfeld, but even I have to agree that this is not the best work. Compared to the past few seasons (esp. Spring Couture 2009 which was ultra fierce!!!)
With what most people say, the suits are definitely the staple classic, which is kinda compulsory at any Chanel show, since it is Chanel's trademark.
The trains are ehh...not so much. Well, to be optimistic, the trains and the long panels are a new/uncommon silhoette...? I mean, at least you don't see them in the recent collections (no offense Elie Saab). But well, maybe it was more conceptual(contrary to most opinions but that's just me)...?
With every high, there is a low. Let's just hope this low will give a high-high in Spring 2010.

P.S Was the Resort 2009 Collection that good? I didn't think it was bad but Style just made it sound like the best thing that ever unfolded in Fashion History. LOL

FashionFan026


The days of couture having the ideas that trickle down to rtw are long gone. There is nothing new or innovative here and most of it is just kind of boring.


The Chanel collection is all over the place and did not generate excitement from me, some pieces I liked and others I did not. This was my favorite piece.


BTW, did anyone notice the a few Chanel pieces including this one
may have possibly been inspired by the Balenciaga collection that TLo featured? Like in many of these cases, I liked the (possibly) inspired piece better than the original.


Hm, yeah. Some of these coats/jackets are pretty great, but who would really pay couture prices for them?


A lot of Karl's fabric choices were terribly suspect. The very first suit that came out looked like it was frickin' made out of bubble wrap and mylar.


Willa Shakespeare said: Um, yeah. This is why I don't really like Chanel. They never do anything all that different 'cause they're tied to Coco's limited aesthetic. That and Karl Lagerfeld is too busy calling people fat and wearing the same thing every day to design something actually original. Tweed suits, what a fucking shock. *Yawn*


I've been wanting to say this about Chanel for a very long time, but didn't have the nerve. It would be like calling Julia Child a hack in front of a bunch of chefs. Either way, I could end up being stabbed with a very sharp object.

What is with all the tails? If I wanted a mullet, I'd get my hair cut.


demure couture.


Maura
7/16/09 12:00 AM Willa Shakespeare said: Um, yeah. This is why I don't really like Chanel. They never do anything all that different 'cause they're tied to Coco's limited aesthetic. That and Karl Lagerfeld is too busy calling people fat and wearing the same thing every day to design something actually original. Tweed suits, what a fucking shock. *Yawn*




Dude, I couldn't agree with you more.


For someone who hates the fat as much as Lagerfeld, he's certainly gone out of his way to chop up the visual line of every starving model in the collection. Contrasting white bottines with black lace hose; white and pale dresses with clunky black hose and and white shoes; a white "wedding" dress that was mercifully left short in front (because a full length dress in that fabric texture would look exactly like a toilet-paper-roll-hiding doll).

Are those pasties on that white and silver cocktail dress? Mah Gawd.


http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_FW86_jO7k_A/Sl3NO5Kf0eI/AAAAAAABGzs/cR1vcuGSOoI/s1600-h/Chanel%2BFall%2B2009%2BCouture%2B34.jpg

Red Carpet dress for Helen Mirren.


i'm pretty sure that Celia from America Next Top Model in the Wedding dress with the man.


The man looks like Jeff Stryker.


Oh great, Karl's got length issues again. Is it full length or is it a mini? It's both! Kind of like the "inventive" floor wax also used as a dessert topping from the hey days of SNL.

I just want to say to the long tails in the back, TUCK IN THOSE TAILS IN THE FRONT, YOU INCONTINENT BITCHES! I'm not buying adult diapers for your laxative binges anymore.

-Frances
--Terese


I think I saw one of the looks was in an old episode of the bold and the beautiful. no joke.


Underwhelming. Yan-W.


The gal in the first photo is wearing a lampshade from a French cathouse on her head.





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