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Calvin Klein Menswear Spring 2010 Collection


"We need transparency in the world" was Italo Zucchelli's summation of his latest menswear collection for Calvin Klein. That could be the manifesto of more than one designer in Milan this week, but Zucchelli pushed the idea into otherworldly territory. He is the futurist of men's fashion, a Trojan horse, really, because he is using the umbrella of America's archetypal sportswear label to advance a vision of the way that men might ideally dress in a parallel universe. The twist in Zucchelli's tale is that, perfect though these creatures might be, they are not necessarily comfortable with what their future holds, hence mannequins who looked as awkward on the catwalk as could be expected after a thousand-year journey from another galaxy. At least Zucchelli gave them a wardrobe to wear when they landed."

A weirdly noncommittal review. Well, we'll commit to it: we love this collection. The crisply tailored jackets and pants, the sleeveless shirts, the cuffed shorts, and that amazing pop of blue and orange, it all just makes our skirts fly up. Gorgeous clothes on gorgeous men. We'll take it.

[Photos: firstVIEW]

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While scanning the collection, I have to report that the 9th photo from the bottom in the left column caused me to do a double-take; at first I thought the model had a Johnny-from-TFS hairstyle because of the guy at the back of the runway's head.

Fantastic. Those jackets are amazing. The only things that seem weird--and not in a good way--are the visible elastic bands above some of the pants. Yikes! The rest, though, is great. Love CK.

Nice, trim slacks, cuffed shorts also crisp & trim (though just a tad UPS driver). The cap-sleeved tees are very beachy, but the v-neck sleeveless shirts grab attention by telegraphing hospital orderly/prison inmate to me.

The suits are less compelling, they feel "IBM company man" in a conformist, bleak 1960's way. I think perhaps because the shoulders are narrower and the lapels so plain? In any case, that's my baggage.

(did I thank you for doing men's wear? If not, THANKS.)

(and yes, even the BLUE suit is not redeemed for me by its color.)

Forgot to mention that I really like the collarless jacket. I'd love to see that catch on.

some good. But row 2? Can't imagine much of a market for men's miniskirts (EPL's maxi either). And the guy on rt looks like he has a triangular hair hat?

Look 10, appears to be a white version of Daniella's sheer blouse from this week - let the attacks begin?

That particular combination of orange and blue was jarring.

Every single one of those pieces looks incredibly uncomfortable to wear and completely generic to me. They seem like the clothes men would wear in a gender-reverse version of The Stepford Wives.

I think ya'll are WAY more objective about the women's collections and with these men's collections ya'll are so titillated, you can't see straight=objectively comment.

Are you kidding me with the orange and blue combo's? I'd love to see you guys show up like that anywhere, and or even tell me which celebrity would be the proud wearer of it? not even Brad Pitt could pull that off. OR those sleeveless vneck blouses...paahleez OR the sheer blouses, yes blouses.

Fly back into your body please.

We think we'll stick to discussing fashion in a manner that goes a bit beyond "Would I, or Brad Pitt, wear this?"

In an earlier post you mentioned building a vocabulary for critiquing men's clothing. It seems to me that one word you use frequently for describing jackets you like is "crisp". I'm starting to get a feel for what you mean by that, but I'm also wondering about the opposite -- flowy? Loose? Disheveled? I'd really like to see some jackets you *don't* like, to compare and contrast. BTW -- I'm so happy that you have expanded to do men's collections -- I feel like I'm learning right beside you.

"Ask" questions the skirt look -
looks like shorts to me. And that's not a hat - it's the model walking away -his black t shirt makes it look like a hat.
For someone with an astigmatism - the orange and blue combination is
visually distressing. Something about those transparent shirts
is appealing - but you gotta be one secure guy - of any persuasion -to make that work.

Alright, but who would wear it? Like I said, the objectivity is not there with the men's collections...

I don't care for the cap sleeves or sheer. I do love the crazy electric blue and orange pieces though--they aren't exactly wearable but as MK said, "Lighten up, it's fashion!"

Fashion's not always about "this can't be worn by normal people" If that was the ideology, every runway would feature clothes from Target.

"Anonymous said...

Alright, but who would wear it? Like I said, the objectivity is not there with the men's collections..."

What a weird and arbitrary complaint. There's no objectivity anywhere on this blog. It's all opinions.

Love the collection! Who would wear it? My boyfriend. He wears CK all the time.

yes, mostly arbitrary and less objective when it comes to men, jus sayin'.

The whole I wouldn't wear it therefore it isn't worth existing is beyond my comprehension.

I can't believe we're having another dreary "who would wear this" discussion about Calvin Klein, of all designers. His collections are typically among the least "out there" of any designer and this one is no different. These aren't exactly crazy innovative never-before-seen clothes.

Uh, anon, just because the blue pants and orange shirt are worn together on the runway does not mean that they are required to be worn together in real life. I would certainly wear either of those colors on its own.

And I don't think I've ever seen male celebs wearing head-to-toe runway looks like I have women, so I don't know why you're blathering about Brad Pitt and "Who would wear this exact look?!?!" You don't like the blue and orange. We got it.

" Anonymous said...

yes, mostly arbitrary and less objective when it comes to men, jus sayin'."

The tagline of this blog is "Fabulous and Opinionated." Where you got the idea that we were supposed to be objective - or have ever been objective - is beyond us.

TLo said:
The tagline of this blog is "Fabulous and Opinionated."

and, you are!

Coming off nearly 2 weeks with no Internet, I am in a mood to be quite appreciative of the entertainment value, accompanied by occasional learning, found here.

Clea, cool, light. Lots of see-thru sleeves. Summer? The lite suit jacket with see-thru sleeves a bit strange. The pop colors fine, hopefully not worn together as shown. The shiney lite grey/purple somewhat iridescent jacket a bit weird.

Smile, handsome men!

Not sure about the see-throughs, but I love everything else.

I rather liked the orange and blue is always nice to see originality and some zazzle in menswear. But seriously, I was waaay to distracted by the clenched jaws coming down the runway at me. All I could think of was "hmm...Brick Rockchest looks nice, but hey, look at Clench Nailgun on the next picture!"

I like the trousers, but overall I'm not loving this collection. I really dislike the Bermuda Shorts suit.

I love it. It's nice to see a collection that doesn't get bogged down in "concept".

I mean, some of the clothes we've seen in other collections are interesting, but far too cluttered or costumey.

Great collection!

By the way, is it the cut of the pants or are they all pointing at me?

"it all just makes our skirts fly up."

Haha. You sure do have a way with words!

It´s growing on me, y'know?

I´m still not in love with it as I was with the Dirk Bikkembergs menswear collection, which by the way is stunning, but I´m liking it more now than a while ago.

I think they keep it simple but chic and clasy. It´s very elegant.

I like all the pants, all the shorts, and the collarless jackets. As someone else mentioned, that's a look I hope catches on more. Not in a Member's only way, though! But these CK collarless jackets are sharp.

Not a fan of the transparency. Even on hot guys with great bodies.

Love the turquoise and orange, just not both together--too HoJo for me. But, orange is a great color and I wish more people in general would wear it. Orange can be so flattering...but I think people are scared of color.

I like the turquoise, too. I think some of the turquoise pieces would look great with the khaki ones.

I agree, the v-necks remind me of scrubs.

Overall I think it's pretty great.

The jackets, the jackets, the jackets! The sheer ones for looks and giggles, the rest for real life. Interesting how our jacket choices seem to be our REAL statement when we step onto the street.

PS to all designers -- Bermuda shorts are for vacation, NOT the office, unless you're a waycool high-tech startup. Even then, they don't go with a suit coat & tie. They just don't. Stop trying.

the first lulu

As I began to doze off whilst scrolling, I was jerked awake by the blue and orange suits.


MerceloF said: By the way, is it the cut of the pants or are they all pointing at me?

Heh. I'm not a fan of that cut. I prefer the looser cut we've seen in most of the other men's collections.

The turquoise is killing me, and not in a good way. I just can't appreciate it. But I can appreciate that this is classic Calvin Klein - unfussy, simple, beautifully made.

What's up with the grumpy looking models, though? They're so pretty and they look fabulous in these clothes. What's to scowl about?

the first lulu

ok, now that I'm awake...

I actually like the orange shirt with the odd colored grey/purple/blue slacks. And the mono colored outfit a few pictures up, where the scrubs type shirt is layered over a regular neckline.

All in all, a collection where you can pick and choose items to work with your own wardrobe. But I'm still a little off put by the sheer pieces.

I thought there were fit problems with some of the jackets, but on second look, it seems to be the fabric. Is it a very thin raincoat-type fabric, the kind you would see in rain ponchos (the ones that come in little packets)? Anyway, it pulls across the front where it is buttoned.

There is a tan suit that is very nice and the color is lovely.

It is a fine collection. As for "who would wear it?"--I reiterate, many African-American men, athletes and musicians especially, would wear many of these looks. I'm not sure about the see-through shirts, but we'll see.

Taking another look (it's tough, but I'll force myself--haha), #13 seems ill-fitting and looks round-shouldered. 16, 19, 23, 30, 37 and 40 all seem to be tight across the front where they are buttoned. Is this a "look"? They are not all in that raincoat fabric.

The suit that I mentioned is more of a buttery beige than tan. The grey suit is also lovely.

I think the see-through jackets are OK but I'm not sure about the shirts.

Over all, it is good but not in the top 2-3 of what I've seen.

I hope you haven't abandoned the gals, TLo!

I am not a fan of the one button suit in general, and these are no exception. Also, a few of the looks seem very crumpled and sloppy in a way that doesn't cohere with the crisp sillhouettes.

BUT, by-and-large, most of these looks are fabulous. Not to mention wearable, though not in a pedestrian way. It really does look like the sportswear of a somewhat distant future, and that kind of foresight typically makes for great fashion.

I like most, though a few pieces are a little Space 1999 to me. But then a lot of the collection has a retro feel. Is it just me, or would James Bond be comfortable in those suits?

I love this collection-- especially the suit jackets.
Nice eye candy too.

Only wish my husband could wear some of this.

Some of it I liked, some I didn't, mainly the sheer jackets and shirts. One good sweat, and the guys wearing them would look bedraggled and bewildered.
When I got to the blue and orange pieces, I thought "Wow, I didn't know CK was a Florida Gator fan!".

A great collection except I think for a fella on the go like me I think it would be a bucket of tears since I would be ironing it all the time. Still, had an elf to do that I'd wear it!

Holy poo, Batman! I hated JP's mess from the minute it appeared on the runway, but after seeing the total lack of fit and execution, I hate it even more. No way did this travesty of a design deserve to stay over Merlin's yellow coat (I still covet that coat, and I WANT it!).
Reco designed a beautiful suit (sans the sad blouse). I really would have picked it for the winner over Anna's flower pot.
But then, I'm not producing this show, thank God.

Holy Crow...I need coffee, I posted on the wrong thread. Forgive me...going over to the TFS now...

I'm completely in love with the second suit, but those V-neck tops are not my style at all. They remind me of scrubs with the sleeves cut off. :/

Love the orange, especially the polo shirt. It's so hard to find a good orange shirt at all anywhere (in 2nd place is green - hard to find shirts in good shades of green).

But for CK, some of the fits seem off. Especially in the beginning of the collection, the fits seem off. In the 2nd pick that jacket is awfully tight around the chest and puckers throughout.

Also, some of the sleeveless shirts seem strangely baggy, with too much material.

Overall, I think this is OK. CK's been doing the monochromatic suits in eye-popping colors for a while now, so it's not exactly new for them, but it's still fun to look at.

meh. it doesnt really work for me,im not a fan of the cap sleeve tees, nor the light grey/bright orange/azure palette. please review the burberry prorsum collection, its fab!

Orange V-neck needs a number on the back. I do not like the cap sleeves, either. Has a Jersey Shore feel. Blue and Orange together say 1939 World's FAir to me, but I realize that's probably not the normal response...

I really liked that jacket cut a bit like a woman's boiled wool jacket. Clean and modern. I love that shade of orange, just not with that shade of blue.

I actually like this quite a bit... except for the shorts. I'm not a huge man-short fan, especially not short loose ones. Other than that I love the monotones. Especially the all-blue suit. Kind of reminds me of those rainbow-shade Docs. Loooove the last suit.. and the model inside of it.

The jackets are awesome!

"Anonymous said...
Every single one of those pieces looks incredibly uncomfortable to wear and completely generic to me. They seem like the clothes men would wear in a gender-reverse version of The Stepford Wives."

Really? Wow! I think they look sleek and sexy.


Then again, most menswear is.

Here's the thing T&L, this is ASS. Biker shorts, sheer, cap sleeved, plunging v-neck, prison issue orange, electric blue, jackets made out of shower curtains ASS!

I like the opaque items - the transparent ones - no. Never been a fan of transparent shirts/jackets on women either.

A big "meh".

Sheer sleeves? Mesh v-neck tees? The casual jackets that look suspiciously like Members Only without the little shoulder strips?

Except for a couple of the suits -- and a CK suit somehow always manages to make you look taller, thinner and sleeker -- most of the collection looks like Banana Republic meets International Male.

"Banana Republic meets International Male"-- right on!

Picture #13: that cut is insane and horrible. Even a model with a perfect body looks dreadful in it. Really bad.

The mesh sleeves on some of the jackets/shirts is insane, but otherwise this is a very wearable solid collection. I really like the white jacket with the pipping. If they would make that in a darker color like navy or chocolate brown, my husband would wear it in a heart beat.

I have such a hard time with men's wear. All I can see is goofy model faces, either gaunt or over the top chisled to perfection. All I see is the styling. I commented before that this was all ASS, but I don't know? Maybe it's just that it's men's wear. From my perspective, if the styling is not what I prefer, or I find the models unattractive, the clothing is secondary. Am I sexist?

... "it all just makes our skirts fly up."

Ha! Love you boys.
When are you bitches going to do an event in NYC? Host a party at Emmett's store!

I love the orange and blue combos. I see a lot of orange for men now. I like it :)

"FormerlyAnon said...
(did I thank you for doing men's wear? If not, THANKS.)"

Yes, thank you. I love these posts!

What's with the orange and blue combination? Did Calvin stay at a Howard Johnson's recently?

BALMAIN for women

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