The Tom & Lorenzo Archives: 2006 -2011
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John Galliano Menswear Spring 2010 Collection

You want to see a show? We'll give you a goddamn show!

Check THIS, bitches:

"The theme was Napoleon's rise and rise, and—the Napster being a character whom Galliano effectively identifies with—the show's arc had a real cinematic drive. "

"Impressive indeed was the way that a sarong was actually the new Galliano shirt (his signature newsprint over-printed with flowers) knotted around a model's waist. Muslin-shrouded desert rats looked like wraiths in their sand-colored suits, but there were also denim jackets with cuffs crusted with embroidery."

"Napoleon's Sicily sojourn featured one more opportunity for someone to display Simon Nessman in briefs, this time with a gilded torso (do designers make a bathing suit specially for him?) followed by a finale that impressively re-created the Napoleon of Abel Gance's 1927 movie, and gave him the outerwear of the season—a romantic, floating, multilayered frock coat—to wear."

Now, THIS is what we're talking about. As Lorenzo almost-tearfully said, "This is why I love fashion." As always with Galliano, you have to separate the show from the clothes in order to really get a good look at the latter. Don't get us wrong, we love a good show and Galliano always delivers that, but when you strip away the amazing staging, there are some really gorgeous pieces in there. It practically goes without saying that we loved the bathing suits (and the accompanying painted-on abs), but we drool over the coats and jackets, many of which are breathtaking.





















































[Photos: firstVIEW]



Post a Comment
71 comments:

I must be looking at the wrong show.

Some of that shit is hideous.


winninghamster

I love that floaty black overcoat (is that tulle on the bottom?). Reminds me of Neil Gaiman's Sandman.


Anon 12:19: I must be looking at the same show, or did the casts of Lawrence of Arabia and Night of the Living Dead resurrect themselves. Most of the shit is hideous.
Sorry, TLo, but I hate it all.


Oh, my! So much to look at. Among the more traditional pieces, I love the navy sport jacket; also the yellow blouse with the trompe l'oeil buttons next to it.

Hair & make up . . . pretty amazing.

But. . . Napoleon? I saw Thief of Baghdad morphing to Lawrence of Arabia then careening into Jesus meets the Vampire. I'm a little confused.


Ew ew ew. Sorry, TLo. :-(


Visual feast. I do see Napoleonic influence especially as interpreted into countries he made his mark on, but it is much more reminiscent of T.E. Lawrence. (The last half of the looks slay me.)

I get Corsican, Greek, Italian and Egyptian vibes at the start, but where are France, England and Russia? he had a HUGE influence on them as well.


The next time you guys do "Musical Mondays" you HAVE to do Annie! (I'm sure you guys have alot to say about Punjab).

Michael Jackson, Annie, and E.T. were a big part of my childhood experience.


I kinda hate alot of it. it's strange how it all flows, but then Lawrence of Arabia had a goth phase.


wait...i get a bit of post-Revolutionary, newly unified France at the end there...the goth with the long hair.
still. a bit unbalanced for me. (hard to see the motifs in the swimwear too)


If you google images from Abel Gance's Napoleon film, his inspiration makes a lot more sense, especially the goth-looking stuff at the end.


This is what I love about a fashion show and it proves how some people will NEVER get it. At first glance you will say, "WTF?" , but when you actually pay attention, you will see beautiful jackets and I LOVE some of these shirts that are to die for. I especially love the idea of using a printed shirt as a "skin". The collection is VERY "manly". I love it.


(I agree a little with Brooklyn Bomber about what you think of when you see these pieces)


It made me smile.

ITA that there are some incredibly gorgeous coats and jackets. The Galliano staging and presentation kind of make it hard to see the actual clothes, though.

I have to comment on the booties with the leather straps. It took me a while to figure out that the models weren't wearing socks under sandals.


the goth definitely makes sense with the whole motif, what i'm saying is the whole thing flows from idea, to idea until that part. it doesn't really flow in into the darker pieces at the end, it kind of just does an immediate 180.


Beautiful, stunning clothing and design. I like all of it jumbled together. Maybe Napolean's campaign in Egypt / Middle East would be a better descriptor. Those who say "ew", dig your imagination out and dust it off: this stuff is gorgeous.


Larry, I think you're right about the Abel Gance reference; hadn't thought of that, but it makes sense. Although, at the same time, some of the models in the goth-ey looks really do look like Jesus with the crown of thorns.


This comment has been removed by the author.

...I can spell, I swear.

I don't really think this is his best... I agree with BeautifulMonday that the swimwear doesn't really connect as nicely with the rest, and for me, there is a disparity between the intensity and creativity near the start and about 2/5ths through and the rest of the looks seen here. While it is quite cool (and I would kill for some of the pieces), it doesn't inspire the same frisson that his Fall 2008 collection still does for me (the Tudor-esque one).

This connects to me on a more surface based level; some of his others collections, and much of his couture, connect to me in a more profound way.


TGorgeous. Could make me a fan of this pop designer.

Makeup abs, hee-hee.

Good job, TLo.


This looks straight out of Zoolander.


I love the looks, but I saw more of a story about a Middle Eastern city, followed by an invasion of the Ottomans.


Anonymous on 6/29/09 at 12:19 PM said... "I must be looking at the wrong show. Some of that shit is hideous."

As styled for the runway show..yes! it is hideous for everday life. However, if you strip away all the runway styling there is not an individual piece I would not wear. Of course I would have to spend my entire 401K on alterations but like TLO, I love each individaul piece of clothing in this collection.

TampaBay


My problem is that the "crap" for the show pieces distract from the good stuff.

Yuck!

SisterZip


I don't pretend to know anything about fashion, nor have I looked to see what this particular inspiration is, but I thought to myself, "Take away the styling and the dramatics and there are some beautiful individual pieces there". I especially love the yellow shirt with whatever BrooklynBomber called those buttons :o) I'm definitely not seeing "Derelicte".


bitchybitchybitchy

Definitely getting the Abel Gance Napoleon references in the latter portion of the show, and I do like some of the desert, lawrence of arabia vibe jackets.

but all of those models with the painted on moustaches remind me of Galliano "mini-me's"


jameela
6/29/09 12:52 PM This is what I love about a fashion show and it proves how some people will NEVER get it. At first glance you will say, "WTF?" , but when you actually pay attention, you will see beautiful jackets and I LOVE some of these shirts that are to die for.




I don't think it's a matter of "not getting it" as it is as much a matter of what Nina calls, "is aesthetically pleasing" to the viewer.

I GET what Galliano is doing here, I just think its ugly.


I just can't get passed the extreme over done styling to even see the clothing. I just see a bunch of fabric thrown on as costumes...


I don't get it either. For some reason I got the urge to take a long, hot shower with some strong soap.


Wow! Gorgeous. Even where he fails, he fails magnificently. But so many pieces are win.


Breathtaking. I. LOVE. IT.


CanIGetYouAnything?

"Dawndilion said...
I don't pretend to know anything about fashion, nor have I looked to see what this particular inspiration is, but I thought to myself, "Take away the styling and the dramatics and there are some beautiful individual pieces there"."


Exactly. Well, apparently you know more than most people here.


AMAZING!!

That is how it's done! Ms. Westwood needs to take notes!


Oh god the men are gorgeous.

LOVE the shorts and swimwear.


You are right about some of those jackets. Take away all of the fancy decoration, and there are good pieces there.

I'm just a tad confused about the sudden switch from Lawrence of Arabia swimsuit to Michael Jackson tribute. Any comments?


I knew I'd seen the guy in #44 before! It's Dante Alighieri, presumably after his visit to Hell and before his visit to Paradise.

All kidding aside, there really are some stunning pieces in this collection.


Love it! Awesome awesome awesome and the painted on abs are fabulous :]


Gold-hue powder and bronzer, it's like a MAC attacked their bodies! I could see a lot of the good in this collection, but for some of the looks I had to focus really really hard; it's like staring at one of those Magic Eye pictures.


The Lawrence of Arabia stuff is delicious. The first group, with the jherri-curl wigs and Errol Flynn moustaches was more interesting, though. I liked that cloth and belts thing going on around their torsos.

The Severus Snape collection did not charm, however.


another laura

Lilithcat: "I knew I'd seen the guy in #44 before! It's Dante Alighieri, presumably after his visit to Hell and before his visit to Paradise."

HA! Good one!

some pretty jackets but tough to see details with the swaddling


This is fantastic. LOVE IT!


"Take away the styling and the dramatics and there are some beautiful individual pieces there".

I'm wondering why some designers seem determined to make it as difficult as possible to see the actual garments. I understand they want to make a dramatic, thematic presentation, but I was having difficulty seeing the cut and drape of the pieces underneat the huge wrappings around the waists, etc. Sometimes I just don't care enough to inspect everything that closely.

OK, go ahead and insult me for "not getting it" and being an ignorant cow. (Or, basically, for not agreeing with your opinion.)


Oh, see, I'm completely zeroing in on the styling. Two trends that could easily be appropriated into hip hop are the layered jacket/vest combos over shorts and wearing every belt you own around an artfully torn shirt.


Shirt number 6 reminds me of that Cosby episode where Denise(or was it Vanessa) boasted she could replicate a designer shirt for his big date and then it ended up all wrong.


I'm not crazy about most of the pieces but that's an incredible show.


The turbans are very handsome. I like this collection very much.


Sewing Siren


I agree, agree, the first effect is shock but once you look past the styling the individual pieces are wonderful. And I love love love the Lawrence of Arabia story ... see, TE & Sharif Ali are ready to lead the Bedouins on the march through the desert, but at the last oasis all their clothes are stolen and the only source of garments is a half-dozen containers of designer menswear ...

I mean, THIS is what I call "post-colonial," James-Paul!


Some of that airbrushing scares me.


Bravo, Galliano. Embellishment done right, and beautiful layering. And I'd love several pieces, women's size 6.


Bravo, Galliano. Embellishment done right, and beautiful layering. And I'd love several pieces, women's size 6.


The thing I love about you guys posting the men's collections is that as a man, I get to look at them and say "would I wear that?" and with the women's looks I just look and have to imagine what it would mean to someone to wear the stuff.

The strappy pointed toe boots, the cadet blue sportshirt with contrast white piping, most all the black items, and the jacket with the contrast sleeves in look #28.

BrianB


I like the Lawerence of Arabia section, but I hate to say, but once they take of their shirts I get a little creeped out. Lay off the airbrush people. It way, way to obvious. The 19 packs are strange and distracting.


joyjoy, Napoleon, T.E. Lawrence, etc., etc.--basically everything before WWII--is Colonial. Post-Colonial is what happened after the Colonial period.

And James-Paul did it very well in his collection.

I've given up on looking past the styling. The styling IS the show.


My little goth heart is going pitter patter over the last set, and my costumer heart is freaking out over the embroidery on those jackets.

I love Galliano and he's one of my favorite designers. I just assumed that at the end, he careened into goth to reference the painful death of Napoleon.


Whoa. Are the abs on those swimsuit models real? Wow!

He certainly knows how to put on a show. So impressed with the styling choices.


Not really my style, but maybe I could wear a couple a pieces. I agree the swimsuits are quite nice... but really how many men have the bodies to pull them off. I certainly don't lol.


John Godawfuliano strikes again.


I agree with the folks who imply that Galliano could have made it a little easier if the theme had been described as "Napoleon/Western Europe Making Forays into the 'Exotic' Middle East". Explaining his narrative in a more historiographical manner probably would have made a little more sense to the audience. And yes, I definitely recognize Gance's Napoleon, but his take may have too literal.

But oh well, why does any of that really matter? As usual he put out some beautiful clothes and gave us great theater. And that is is part what fashion is about.


I love it! Can I have one of those beautiful buff colored military jackets cut for me? yes please!


GORGE!


EllenM @ 10:09: basically everything before WWII--is Colonial. Post-Colonial is what happened after the Colonial period.


mmmmmmmkay. I suppose that's academically correct. I was taking "post-colonial" as an action, not a historical period -- ie, anything that comments on colonial history and illuminates its absurdities.

James-Paul's collection went there, but in a subdued and dull way. Galliano's had rage and ridicule, which made his show a cathartic pleasure, for me.


overwrought, fugly; fuglissimo!
agata


The show is artistic and original... It's hard for a fashion-challenged brain like mine to see the actual clothing without the styling and decide if I like it. I'd have to see it separately.


The cat skin is UNACCEPTABLE.


I loved almost everything on this collection. I didn't like the leopard skin/fur at all and speaking about the dark outfits of the collection, there aren't my taste but I like what he did with the long black coat. This pic is the one I'm talking about.


formerlyAnon

I frickin' swoon.

The coats & jackets are pretty gorgeous, though I'd like to see how they lay when buttoned/without belts or wrappings around the waist.

And, yes, it struck me more as Lawrence of Arabia than Napoleon - but then my history was learned with very few visuals, so I only associate N. with the famous portrait and a wood cut of soldiers in disheveled uniform.


...I forgot the inspiration was Napoleon and thought it was Shakespeare's Julius Caesar or something. Either way, I like it. It kind of destroyed the aesthetic of bible-based movies, for me, which I'm a total fan of.


You boys were blinded by the painted on abs. Most of the clothes are hideous. Truly.


A haiku for Galliano

What the fuck? Twelve pack?
excessively distracting
Bad ass jackets, though


A definite 'yes' to the vampires at the end (or should I say what they're wearing) - especially that fabulous, long floaty coat. I am entranced! Costume designer for 'Twilight' please take notice!


It's all about FREEDOM in fashion. He's one of the few remaining designers that are staying true to his DNA. He ROCKS.





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