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Trends for Fall '09: Menswear

Welcome Back, Annie Hall!

Like most trends, it's stuff we've seen before only slightly re-imagined. Fashionistas have been flirting with the menswear-as-womenswear trend ever since Marlene Dietrich donned her first tuxedo. Although some of the looks we're seeing lately come across as a little too literal too us.

Jean Paul Gaultier

Case in point. These don't look like womenswear to us at all. They look exactly like they're wearing men's clothes, right down to the tailoring.

Balenciaga, Calvin Klein, Louis Vuitton

At least these looks have a slightly more interpretive quality to them. We only really like the Calvin Klein though and even then, we don't love it.

MaxMara, Moschino, Rag & Bone

Have we mentioned that the '80s are back?

Stella McCartney, Tommy Hilfiger, Yves Saint Laurent

Love that YSL. The rest? We could take or leave.

Hermès

We have to say, these are our favorites. Yes, they also come across as a little too literal, but they're so luxurious-looking that we can't find fault with them. LOVE that first jacket. In fact, we love it so much, we want it, which should tell you something about how literal it is.

We don't know, it's something we're kind of ambivalent about. This was a trend that started when it was considered shocking for women to wear pants at all. Doing it in the modern age strips it of any subversive qualities, which, it seems to us, was the whole point in the first place. Now it just seems so done.

[Photos: Style.com]


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55 comments:

The Hermes reminds me alot of Kara Saun's BP show, but hers was less literal.

Overall, I like it, except for the parachute trousers in the first set.


I WANT those Moschino trousers.


Nothing grates me more than long non-functioning flaps that ensnare the trouser legs of the unfortunate wearer. Why didn't this trend die in 1999? *N.B By long non-functioning flaps I meant the strips of fabric, not the models' genitalia.


vabs


bitchybitchybitchy

I'm with you two. The menswear for women has been done, and unless a designer is going to bring something new to the table with it, why keep going back to it?

I do like the Calvin Klein, and the YSL -otherwise, meh.


from Suzy ('cause the Name function isn't working)

I love menswear; except for the Jean Paul Gaultier, I'd wear any and all of it. The JPG is way too literal, too floppy and bunchy and androgenous. In the fashion world (in my head) clothing is supposed to enhance, suggest or flaunt femininity, not obliterate it altogether.


WANT the Moschino trous and would
DIE for the middle Hermes ensemble. It's stunning. Like the aviation references.


Yes some of these are way too literal but that YSL outfit is sexy yet sophisticated and not slutty. Take note Johnny

Frank


I love slacks, but this bunch IS too literal for me!! MEH


In all honesty, as a guy, i would love to wear either the first or third JPGs, also, various other bits and pieces from this post... is that wrong? or a cunning-as-a-fox plan for avoiding the average tediosity of actual menswear?


Yes is is "so done," but I've always thought that was secondary to fashion industry cycles.

My cynical view is that designers and manufacturers do an about face right after we've pitched that very last garment in the old style. How many women finally, FINALLY let go of their very last beautiful but long and broad-shouldered double-breasted suits over the last few seasons? Shorter jackets with cut-in shoulders have ruled, and devoting significant closet space to beloved but out-of-fashion stuff in the hope that it would become current again finally seemed pointless. Could be another decade before the frugality paid off. On the other hand, the good stuff always eventually comes back into style.

Now, all of a sudden, the new jackets don't cut at the top of the hip, they go to the bottom of the butt. After a 1- or 2-year transition period, all the clothes we own will look embarrassingly out of date, which is entirely deliberate on the industry's part. Hems and silhouettes in the store will be totally different. We'll have to buy all new stuff!

I had stubbornly refused to pitch several very expensive and perfectly fitting suits with jackets identical to Stella McCartney's grey one, mainly because I had the extra space in my house and it was no biggie to store them. This Spring, I wobbled and nearly did the dirty deed, but now I'm profoundly glad I didn't. Turns out I have, tucked away, an entire lovely wardrobe about to come back into style. Rather than haunt classy consignment and thrift shops, I can just shop in my attic and the closet of my extra bedroom.

Squee! Thank you, Seventh Avenue.


I always thought one of the perks of being a woman is that we don't have to wear ties.


Stella McCartney = nicely tailored jacket, dress underneath is underwhelming, which is signature for her.


The return of the 80s shape makes me cringe.


It's not for me. I already have a square jaw and broad shoulders! I don't need help looking like a man.


The 80's are not back! I refuse to believe it!

I love the coat on the Balenciaga. Here is how I imagine menswear; put that coat over a satin evening dress, like Tilda in your previous post.

Agree on the Hermes, all those women look damn fabulous, I particularly enjoy the middle coat.


Ugh, I was too young in the 80s to know about fashion then, but I know a thing or two now. And what I know is that NONE of these trends should be coming back. Shoulderpads? Leggings? Women in dumpy men's suits? No thanks. I really hate the trend of pairing a super sexy dress with a blah "boyfriend" blazer. Enough.


I deeply love all of the Hermes. Very very yummy!


I'm not a fan of how long many of the jackets are, would make me feel like I raided my dad's closet, especially on us shorties.

There's only a few in this bunch that I actually like, which are the JPG and Hermes.


I happen to love a woman in a suit, but most of this stuff just looks like she raided her boyfriend's closet. It's gotta fit a woman's body, otherwise it looks silly.

The Hermes stuff at least looks very rich, but still.

So agreed again, TLo.


I like the JPG and the Hermes, but they would look even better on ,, you know men.
I used wear a lot of menswear looks when I was a teenager and in my early 20's. I remember one green double breasted forties style Willie Smith suit it was cool, I wore a real loud silk tie from the 40's with it. I thought I looked like Frank Sinatra @@.


I love jackets and have certainly done my time in the over-sized, shoulder-padded ones. But this line up isn't selling me on their revival.

The Hermes looks are rich, but too literal as presented. JPG are worse than too literal, the strappy faux braces around the trouser legs look dopey (and uncomfortable and a NIGHTmare in crowds and tight places).

The Stella McCartney (if one imagines a less lingerie-like dress underneath) is the epitome of best case when we translate this for the workplace - perfectly fine, nothing exciting.

Calvin Klein jacket is SO unflattering on short and/or dumpy women - and we wore them last time around so we'll be stumping our troll-like selves about in them this time as well.

I do love the Moschino trousers, though I've never been and will never be tall enough for them.

Following that thought, note to designers: cuffs on menswear-for-women is not a good choice, except for the genetically long-legged.

Max Mara coat is ugly; Rag & Bone - are they SERIOUS?? It looks like a poor attempt to copy an 80's teen movie outfit in a 10 minute dash through a poorly-stocked Goodwill store.

The YSL approaches a coat dress and I will love it when it gets there.

The only look I could be enthusiastic about is the cheerful silliness Louis Vuitton. (with a silk shell instead of the bra top, for most of us).


Only three words for the Vuitton:

SLUTTY, SLUTTY, SLUTTTEEEEE!


Following that thought, note to designers: cuffs on menswear-for-women is not a good choice, except for the genetically long-legged.

Cuffs on actual menswear for have been out for a long time anyway.


I actually love the Gautier. They are so obviously women, and the looks are really beautiful. I love the fit and the styling. I don't care what anyone says, it's still daring for a woman to dress this way, otherwise we'd see more women in these gorgeous clothes which are glamorous in their own way.

I guess you have to be interested in how androgyny is interpreted, which I suppose I am.

Love the girls in the suit!


TLo: "Have we mentioned that the '80s are back?"

Just kill me now.


Mariana (The Unoriginal)

"Brooklyn Bomber said...
TLo: "Have we mentioned that the '80s are back?"

Just kill me now."


I know.


I know of a local bar where that would be the actual dress code for women.


Anon 1:29 said, "The Hermes reminds me alot of Kara Saun's BP show, but hers was less literal."

Funny you say that because the first I thought of was her postal worker look. (At least. . . I think it was hers I'm thinking of.)

-----

Sewing Siren said, "I remember one green double breasted forties style Willie Smith suit it was cool, I wore a real loud silk tie from the 40's with it. I thought I looked like Frank Sinatra @@."

Ha! SS, we can have our own Rat Pack:

I once bought a suit in the boys dept. at Bloomingdale's and wore it with a tie. Then I went to an ART GALLERY OPENING (capitalized to reference recent TFS challenge); I had short hair at the time and someone told me they thought I was Shirley MacLaine (as in, they really thought I was S.M. who is decades older than I am). I never wore that damn suit again. (Except to a Halloween party; I sewed 3 roses on it and went as Gertrude Stein.)


Anonymous said...

The Hermes reminds me alot of Kara Saun's BP show, but hers was less literal
.

The Hermes looks are actual suits, just styled with goggles. Kara Saun designed aviatrix costumes inspired by the move The Aviator, and she styled them with goggles too. How are Kara Saun's less literal in that case? Her looks were the definition of literal.


As a woman, I'd wear the Gautier and the Hermes in a second. The rest are just women's suits I could find anywhere.


Anonymous
5/21/09 12:35 PM Anonymous said...

The Hermes reminds me alot of Kara Saun's BP show, but hers was less literal.

The Hermes looks are actual suits, just styled with goggles. Kara Saun designed aviatrix costumes inspired by the move The Aviator, and she styled them with goggles too. How are Kara Saun's less literal in that case? Her looks were the definition of literal.


Less literal in terms of being menswear. I wasn't referring to aviation wear. If I was, then yes, it is more literal.

Kara Saun's looks weren't meant to make them look like men. These ones do.


I see. That makes total sense, and I agree.


I was excited for a moment when I thought you two were actually gonna show some menswear trends for Fall '09... major let down.

PS: I think a number of men do, in fact, read this blog as well. gay & straight (though I'm assuming that the straight male is in the minority)


I agree. I would rather see some menswear than another fugly outfit on blah January Jones. Surely you are just as opiniated about menswear, seeing as it's something you could even theoretically wear, no?


For years, I wore a men's 1930's tuxedo to a drafty New Year's Eve celebration. Let the other gals wear their flimsy ball gowns and freeze. Not me!

No, what interests me most is what the model in the second Jean Paul Gaultier shot is carrying. Is Gaultier designing bee keeping jackets now?


Oh this is the worst trend possible for us short and curvy girls, double breasted jackets and cuffed pants make me look like a short wide rectangle. Yuck! However my tall and skinny boyfriend would look wonderful in the Hermes.


Fun times Brooklyn Bomber. I didn't really look like Frank Sinatra, though. Andy Warhol was probably closer to the mark.


" Anonymous said...

I was excited for a moment when I thought you two were actually gonna show some menswear trends for Fall '09... major let down."

Rest assured that, as part of our ongoing efforts to expand the scope of this blog, we do intend to feature posts about menswear. It's coming, kittens.


I love all the Hermes and the Yves St. Laurent. The Hermes makes me think of Claude Montana or Thiery Mugler, way back in the early 80's. It was much more over the top, but I loved it then, too.


"Case in point. These don't look like womenswear to us at all. They look exactly like they're wearing men's clothes, right down to the tailoring."

Kind of hot, though.


SS, is that you in the picture? I really can't see it well enough to tell.


Yeah, I wore the men's thriftstore full suits in my youth (early 80's) and I was cool.... Of course, there was the time I overhead the bouncer -- after I told him I was 25 and he let me pass by -- say to his comrade: How old did HE say he was?

Good times.

PS - Siren! Fab photo.


But so few women actually wear menswear, and do it well, that I think it's still kinda sexy.
It's not new by any means, but what is?

you're right though, the YSL is fantastic. I also like the Moschino and the Hermes. I have to say the JPG is really just menswear but so sexy and chic. Not to sure about the bondage pants.


I like menswear inspired looks, but of these looks, I only like the Max Mara coat, the Moschino pants and I really like the Hermes. Once again, I respond better to Jean-Paul Gautlier's designs for Hermes than for his eponymous collection.


Brooklyn Bomber said...
SS, is that you in the picture? I really can't see it well enough to tell.
~

Si!

desertwind said...

PS - Siren! Fab photo.
~
;P


Ha. Okay, so I am the only 44 year old longing for the 80's to come back!! I loved my buttoned up shirts with the collar pins! I also believe that I owned those Moschino pants.... in a loverly herringbone.


I usually don't like pants with extras hanging off of them, but I really love Gautier's pants in the first and third looks. Lots of women rock a very masculine work in a sexy way and those pants are perfect for that.


The literal ones make me thing drag is becoming popular. The LGBT community has been getting a lot more media lately. Like with shows featuring trans people left and right (examples: Real World, Transamerican Love Story). I think it's becoming hot to mess with gender.


Sewing Siren said...
Brooklyn Bomber said...
SS, is that you in the picture? I really can't see it well enough to tell.~

Si!

desertwind said...

PS - Siren! Fab photo.~
;P

5/21/09 5:22 PM


Wow, SS! LOL!

No soccer mom-minivan-mom jeans for you!


meh to all of the jackets. Most seem to look like an 80s pop video ( save JPG at the end). Still meh for me. However, that first set would look great on some drag kings!


I've always had a boner for menswear styles, and I doubt it will ever look tired to me because although it appears and reappears on the runways, it's never embraced by more than a tiny handful of women.

Like short hair, it always looks fresh because it's never commonplace.


Menswear has been done, yeah. That's fashion. Nothing is completely original.

I like menswear fabrics and touches but I'm too short to wear the big jackets and slouchy trousers. I love the slouchy trousers--it's so Katharine Hepburn. No crazy about the big, zoot suit jackets.

I don't think menswear is an '80s look, necessarily. It has appeared and reappeared throughout the decades. I had a menswear suit in the mid '70s. And, as I said, K. Hepburn, Ginger Rogers, Marlene D., Greta Garbo, etc. rocked it in the '30s. It's practical and can be very sexy.


I never comment here, but I just wanted to say that the Louis Vuitton screams "Walk Of Shame" to me. You all know what I'm talking about. :P


What's funny is that a friend of mine in Oregon told me the LAST menswear trend (you know, from a couple years ago) is still fresh over there, so hey, Oregon, congrats! You're at the forefront of fashion now, haha.

And yes, I'm pretty much over this trend.


Ariel Shpigel

I'm probably in the minority here, but I think menswear looks absolutely fab on women. There is a lot of power translated through these looks that one could never find in a dress. I actually love the Gaultier because it makes a strong impression on the runway. Almost all of the looks have some merit because the pieces could be reimagined or paired with basics for a streamlined, flattering, and interesting look.





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