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Isaac Mizrahi Fall 2009 Collection

Let's check in with Miss Mizrahi again, shall we, kittens?

Style sez:
"Isaac Mizrahi titled his Fall show "Smile" and sent looks with names like Cosy, Xanaxer, and Stressless Dress down the runway to an original jazz score by the Bad Plus. Accessorized with Schiaparelli-referencing handbag hats, models paraded out in plaid kilts and sarongs, chunky knits, and gowns (some with truly odd exposed underpinnings)."

This is a wildly uneven collection. It's like bipolarism in clothing form. There's a lot here that we really like but there's also a lot that just goes plain wrong. We love the colors and the use of plaids and we love the jackets and coats and shimmery metallic pieces. The hats are just plain silly and some of those more haphazard-looking pieces are looking a bit "homeless chic" to us. Still, one thing that always comes through with his work is his clear love of clothing and what he can do with it. Despite the uneven quality of the collection, there's probably something here for almost every woman. Maybe that's why it's so uneven.


















[Photos: Getty Images]


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64 comments:

Entirely too much plaid. I can't stand plaid. But I like the palette he chose for most of the collection. The sparkly dresses are very fun, but don't seem to be part of the same collection as the stuff at the beginning. The purse hats are downright hysterical. Clearly, he was just trying to add some whimsy to his show in a time when everything feels so dour and heavy in the "real" world. My "hat" is off to him for trying to lighten the mood.


I do really like the colors and the plaids, but not a ton of the looks themselves. And I agree with Amanda, the sparkly dresses at the end are like a completely different collection. The hats are just stupid.


Is Le Miz using plus sized models for the first half of the collection, or his he just commenting on our current economic status by making them look like a tent city?


Purse hats????

PLEEEEEZE don't let that become a trend!


"This is a wildly uneven collection. It's like bipolarism in clothing form."

LOL! Egggzactleeee!


I like the purse hats. I would only wear them in public if I lost a bet, but for a collection called "Smile" I think a little bit of pure silliness is appropriate. They certainly made me smile.


Bipolarism? More like schizophrenia!


"Now where did I leave my purse? I know it is here somewhere... I just had it. Now where is that purse.......?"


Did Vincent collaborate with Isaac on this collection?


Laura said:
for a collection called "Smile" I think a little bit of pure silliness is appropriate. They certainly made me smile.
-----
You took the words right out of my mouth...the collection did make me smile, too. Some looks evoked outright laughter, but some of the looks I would wear would be:
Frames 1 and 4...love, love the sweaters!
Frame 3..entire outfit sans hat
Frame 11...absolutely love it!
Frame 20...I want just the coat
Frame 34...I lurve!

The handbag hats are hilarious and just add to the "Smiles"!!!
The collection is not at all cohesive, but that's what makes it fun!! LeMiz might be a bit schizo or bi-polar, but he's FUN!


woaahh. All over the place is right. But even though I am not a huge fan of plaids, I am overall a fan of his fabric choices. Some of them are enough to make me love the pieces, were they to be viewed alone, away from their neighbors here. Except for the giant beach cover up horizontal striped tee under the trench(?)coat. That's a waste of runway real estate.

I liked the purse hats as a bit of fun. Don't know how many he'll sell! I live in hope of actually seeing someone wearing one somewhere, live & in person. (ha!)


woah! There's so much going on. Personally, if I looked at the top row and the bottem row, I wouldn't be able to tel they're from the same collection. Love the sparkly dresses, most of the sweaters, the belts, and the plaid isn't so bad in small doses.


If there is a God, I will see people walking down the street in that hat.

--GothamTomato


There is very little I find appealing about this collection. Pretty much the last line w/ the dresses are the only pieces that make any sense. What in the world is up w/ the "Two Face" dresses?


Anonymous 10:19: "Even if it was attached to my head, I still wouldn't be able find it!!"

Again, TLo was dead on! You bitches are good. There is no continuity or cohesiveness in this collection. Isaac is an intelligent guy. He also loves a little sass, diva-ness and drama. I couldn't find any of these attributes. Some pieces were good, if they were taken out of the context presented. It was annoying to see two looks that showed a theme and then see another look pulled out from another designer's work. Inconsistent.
-Frances


He is really casting a wide net with this collection.

I do love his color stories, and those sweaters in the top row that look like they are woven (hard to see the detail, but they look interesting).

--GothamTomato


People with real (medical) issues take Xanax for anxiety - but they are not crazy. I'd wonder which one had Xanax in the name - because so help me I'd be pissed if it was one of those INSANE ones with the ridiculous hats. :o)


"Except for the giant beach cover up horizontal striped tee under the trench(?)coat. That's a waste of runway real estate."

Yay, formerlyAnon! I was going to call it a pride parade muumuu under a harry potter robe, if harry potter was a flasher. Totally incongruous.

I hate that half of the models look like they're dressed up in their parents'/clown clothes. Ill-fitting and sloppy.


The use of color is stunning.


It really does give new meaning to the phrase "put a bag over one's head" ...


It looks like Jay, Jerrell and Lupe became firm designers after all!


It's all over the place and not in a good way. He knows how to use color, I'll give him that.


As Nina would say, "I'm confused," followed by Tim's line "It's a lot of look."


The plaid is fugly.


CanIGetYouAnything?

Nothing remotely new. I'm underwhelmed.


You know what, though? It did make me smile.


I like a lot of it, especially the color palette, but a large number of the pieces look strangely bulky and hyper-layered. As Nina and the Duchess would say, "You have to learn to edit yourself."


For the most part I like it. The purse hats, I think are for the runway only. But I would wear one :).
I love the plaids.
The only obvious clunkers (to me) are the two evening gowns in row 6. They remind me of a gown this kid a Pratt sent down the runway our senior thesis show. Bad. Very very bad.


Well glad to see my first reaction didn't differ from many of you all. However, being that he is a judge on the new PR (whats the name show?), how can he critique the contestents about consistancy amd flow within their collections:eek!

On the plus side, the colours were beautiful, those pieces that stood out, really stood out! (imo, those widleg plaid pants are a great example), and he picked a plaid I could appreciate (fairly anti-plad).


?????????????
Don't know what else to say.


The clothing is nice, but the handbag hats are a bit too Vincent for my taste.


I love the little plaid dress and the sunset-y sweater in the top row, but everything else is all over the place. Either I can't see the majority of the outfit, or it's just plain ugly. I know collections are supposed to be high-end and unique, but it seems that he could have benefited from the look-in-the-mirror-and-remove-one-item rule. I suspect there are some really beautiful pieces here, but they're mixed in with some truly hideous ones.

I think the purse hats are fun.


This collection makes me smile, especially after seeing all of the dull-colored collections that everyone else produces at Fashion Week. My favorite of all of them is the dress in the sixth row all the way to the right; this surprises me because I normally don't like such un-perfect designs.


The man knows coats. I like all the coats. I can see those being worn over other kinds of outfits.

His experiements with plaids are in-terrrr-est-ing. Many work (enlarging the plaid, especially) some ... eh.

The shiny gowns at the end do look like they are from a different collection.


The 4th piece reminded me of a pot holder I made my parents when I was 6. But I think that's a good thing because I love the colors and it brings back nice memories. :)


I'm pretty sure the handbag hats are satire.


I love Isaac and almost everything he does. The woven looking sweaters in in the top row are my fave. Such great colors and wonderful texture.
I don't really get where he was going with the bags/hats. I thought the bags looked a little cheap and just thrown on. Too sutdenty.


I love Isaac and almost everything he does. The woven looking sweaters in in the top row are my fave. Such great colors and wonderful texture.
I don't really get where he was going with the bags/hats. I thought the bags looked a little cheap and just thrown on. Too sutdenty.


Remember the scene in Godard's Two or Three Things I Know About Her when the guy hires two call girls to come to his hotel room, strip naked and walk back and forth with carry-on PanAm bags covering their heads? That's what those hats bring to mind.

Thanks,
Dale.


This reminds me of when Vincent put a basket on that model's head.


As a collection, it is too all-over-the-place. He was definitely channeling his inner Sybil with all of this.
With that said I do like parts, I def can't get behind the whole


Anonymous said...

I'm pretty sure the handbag hats are satire.


Oh yes, they're so "satiric." Hardly. They are uninspired, literal reworkings of Elsa Schiaparelli's shoe hat, which, at least, looked like a uniquely chic hat at the time and didn't bring shoes to mind immediately. Isaac took some handbags, made the bottoms concave, and threw them on the models.

If you like them, or they "make you smile" or whatever, fine, but let's not pretend there's a message when there isn't one, or, at the very least, that it's deeper than it actually is. I don't see anything beyond "Hey, do you remember those shoe hats?"


Daywear - bleck. Who'd be caught dead in this stuff, even on the streets of New York City?

Evening wear (last two lines) - yummy. The true talent lies here.


Anonymous said...
Anonymous said...

I'm pretty sure the handbag hats are satire.

Oh yes, they're so "satiric." Hardly. They are uninspired, literal reworkings of Elsa Schiaparelli's shoe hat, which, at least, looked like a uniquely chic hat at the time and didn't bring shoes to mind immediately. Isaac took some handbags, made the bottoms concave, and threw them on the models.

If you like them, or they "make you smile" or whatever, fine, but let's not pretend there's a message when there isn't one, or, at the very least, that it's deeper than it actually is. I don't see anything beyond "Hey, do you remember those shoe hats?"

4/10/09 1:37 PM



Lighten up, its just fashion.


I'm sorry, but this is bad. Most of it looks mismatched, frumpy, and/or crazy.


If there is a more annoyingly trite and faux-pithy phrase than "Lighten up, it's just fashion!" I have yet hear it. Maybe we could bump it up a notch so that's posted her 1,500 times a day instead of 500. That would be really kewl.


Not feeling it at all and I like Isaac.


I like the hats, both for the touch of whimsy they add and the hope they give me that someday soon an attention-desperate socialite/starlette will show up somewhere wearing one, and I will get to read what TLo and the Fug Girls have to say about it. :)


Mariana (The Unoriginal)

I like the plaid pieces (especially that short dress) and the last evening dresses, but I'm pretty much lost on everything else.


He really knows how to use colors.


I love those Klimt-y fabrics on the last three in the second to last row.

and please, please let me see someone wearing a purse on her head when I'm in NYC next week. Please.


Dear Le Miz,
Purses are not hats. I repeat, PURSES ARE NOT HATS. it's a gimmick that made me smile at the first model, but it got old by the second photo of a woman with a purse on her head.

This is so disjointed and layered, as tim gun would say "it's a lot of look." It needs...editing? I'm guessing he is not the one literally designing all these pieces, and it really, really shows.


I dare someone to wear one of those hats!

It's cute, fun, wearable, all over the place and not a great collection overall. Good pieces, slice and dice and maybe you've got something, but where to start?


He's making fun of us with that hat purse. No we will not wear everything!


Anonymous
4/10/09 3:07 PM If there is a more annoyingly trite and faux-pithy phrase than "Lighten up, it's just fashion!" I have yet hear it. Maybe we could bump it up a notch so that's posted her 1,500 times a day instead of 500. That would be really kewl.



As "trite" as the comment is, its appropriate here, especially with all of the hostility...over a purse hat.


The colours are bright and cheerful and I like a lot of the individual pieces but... I can't help wishing that another styling team did the show.

It's the styling of the outfits that seems more off than the clothes themselves. A lot of the photos just seem like good pieces mismatched for the outfit.

However, kudos for putting these poor models in flats and keeping the heeled shoes within the realm of reality.

The colours, the variety of styles and the flats make this a fun, it slightly underwhelming and confused, outing that still leaves me with a wonky smile.


A sense of humor never goes out of style.

--GothamTomato


I really like most of these looks, it is just so haphazard and everything but the kitchen sink.


These Klimt colors are the lovely. Easily the most optimistic & dynamic palette of the Fall collections.


The "hats" are ridiculous! I like some of the plaid and the long gowns.


i like this collection. it did as the title suggests. It made me smile


FUG-LY!! Dude would have been kicked off PR with the first outfit. GAG!!


There's a reason purses are for carrying! They look like somebody tried to make fun of Arabs and couture at the same time.


I dressed at his Saks Fifth Avenue show in Philadelphia, and must say that these pieces looked really great in person. some were a little over the top, but I really loved the way he translated the plaid in different ways, especially in the beaded dress. My model wore the look with the huge cardigan, and it was so soft!





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