The Tom & Lorenzo Archives: 2006 -2011
Our current site is here: www.tomandlorenzo.com

Trends for Spring '09: Zip It.

Hey, remember this?

Well good ol' Jeffrey was ahead of the curve on this trend. He didn't invent it and it's not exactly new, but lately, we're seeing more and more exposed zippers on the runway.

From the functional:

Narciso Rodriguez

To the purely decorative (LOVE these):

3.1 Phillip Lim

...It seems like more and more the zipper is becoming the embellishment of the moment. It also seems like every time we show a dress with an exposed zipper, EVERYONE has strong opinions about it. And since this blog is where strong opinions come to roost, we thought we'd weigh in.

Sometimes, it really works for us:

Michael Kors

Like here, where the Duchess integrated them as a practical element to the garment but still utilized them as an embellishment. It works for us probably because it feels somewhat restrained.

On the other hand...

Proenza Schouler

This just doesn't work for us at all. They look like they're wearing their clothes inside-out.

We can't always get excited when it's used as trim:

Versace

The one on the right is fun but the other two bore us.


DKNY, Matthew Williamson, Preen

Same here: boring, boring, boring. In the end, it's like any form of embellishment. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It depends how you use it.

What do you bitches think?

[Photos: FirstView/Elle.com/Style.com]
63 comments:

Well, you definitely got it right that Jeffrey did not invent them, lol. (PS I have always hated that dress, and was less than pleased when Margaret Cho chose to wear it. Le sigh.)

Yes, like everything, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. I find it hard to definitively make comments on any trend or detailing without seeing the pieces themselves, because however ugly or ridiculous it is, someone somewhere can make it work.

I love Philip Lim. Adore him, always have. Out of all these looks, he's the only one doing something remotely fresh with them. The Narcisco Rodriguez and Versace ones are ok, but the rest are underwhelming. I often find it difficult to get behind anything Michael Kors does, for some reason, and can someone explain to me how Donna Karan still has a job? She has been doing the same boring black shit for years. I feel like the only people who would wear her are clueless wannabes who wanna be "so New York" or something.


I loved Jeffery's use of it and Philip Lim's. As for Kors, its alright, nothing earth shatteringly amazing but nice.


I hate hate hate exposed functional zippers. It looks unfinished and like the person hasn't learned how to properly insert a zipper. Even when designers do it purposefully it just comes of as lazy to me.

As trim, it just depends on how it's used.


Is the zipper on the DKNY coat stuck? Ew, that is just not appealing at all.


My favorite example of exposed zipper is a killer pair of Narciso Rodriguez stilettos. Trends in shoes are more tolerable for me especially in this case. But who would have thought the Duchess would have the most restraint in this trend?


I can't divorce the use of zippers from the garment as a whole - so, of course, I like the Rodriquez and the Lim pieces, and really dislike the Proenza Schouler as the zippers just add to the overall impression that the garments were made from some unsuitable and cheap material.

I would say I love the Lim use of the zippers, but it's so distinctive that by the time the knock-offs are on the racks I'll be finding it dated.


Good post but,
eww not digging the middle Phillip Lim
That dress was just about the only thing Jeffrey did that I thought was decent.

I do like the Versace on the left, because it accentuates the shape.


The DKNY on the bottom left looks like a longer version of a Lane Bryant jack from about 5 years ago.
(and Sara is right it appears to be broken.)

I like a decorative functional zipper - but agree that just sewing it inside out is not the way to use them.


Oh Empress' post reminded me one of my fav pairs of "fun" shoes are fushia patent leather with half zipper trim.


The Phillip Lim dresses are very visually interesting, and I like the Kors pieces, especially that blue suit...I've been waiting for that color of blue to come back. And I like the Preen dress pretty well.

The others? Meh.


I love that Sebelia's dress. I think it's the best thing he ever designed. I don't have a problem with exposed zippers, as you pointed out, as long as it's done elegantly. I love love love those Philip Lim's looks.


I love zippers!
I want that 3rd Narciso Rodriguez's dress NOW!


Love the Versace dresses, all three of them.


TLo said... What do you bitches think?

What do I think? What do I THINK!?!?

Don't ever start a blog entry stating that Jeffrey was "ahead of the curve" or any other affirmation, even if it's true. [/Written with Lots of Love]


PhantomMinuet said...

The Phillip Lim dresses are very visually interesting, and I like the Kors pieces, especially that blue suit...I've been waiting for that color of blue to come back. And I like the Preen dress pretty well.

The others? Meh.


So...because Michael Kors used it, it must be in?

Ahahahahahahaahahahahahahahahahaha

Sickening. Michael Kors is like the George W. Bush of fashion design, and is from the same LI town as Lindsay Hohan. Enuf said.


Oh wow, I have a half-finished pair of pants I started making in 8th grade! The zipper is still exposed! I must be "ahead of the curve" too, since I arbitrarily did something about a million years before someone else did it too! Yay, I'm a design guru!


another laura

Love the Rodriguez and Nim dresses - oh, that red Rodriguez dress I want it a lot that color is amazing - and the blue one from The Duchess. beyond those, it's ugly or looks stale. The DKNY ones look like 80s retreads, don't they? Or do I have my eras mixed up? (this could definitely be the case)


More zippers, including closer looks at some of the 3.1 Phillip Lim dresses:

http://www.joonbug.com/glamdamnit/trend-list-zippers/ESHZukx8PKN

www.refinery29.com/trend_watch/zip_lock.php

http://fabsugar.com/2567243

When does trend become overkill?


i pretty much agree with your assessment, TLo -- some of them work and others just don't. i really don't like the trend of using them as a closure for pants -- they look to me like a badly done 7th grade home-ec project. of course, those of you who are younger probably don't even know what home-ec is -- guess i'm really dating myself....


I love the Phillip Lim ones, except the shoes on the middle one are hideous. The rest put me to sleep.


I assume that these are from the Fall 2008 and Spring 2009 collections.

Zippers were also prominent in Victoria Beckham's line which TLo profiled in the past 2-3 months - give or take.

**************

See this is what bothered me about the Kenley scandal (such that it was). Are we to believe that each of these designers independently decided that they will use zippers in their collections? At what point do you label it plagiarism (or at least knocking off)?

So why did Michael Kors and Tim Gunn tell Kenley that she needed to study fashion history and other collections, so that she can come up with a more palatable lie and say that she was inspired by some designer or trend from yesteryear rather than what Designer X showed a few months ago?

Is it OK for contemporaneous designers to inspire each other, and if so, why don't they just own up to it and credit whoever seeded that particular idea? It should be noted that a single collection can have multiple inspirations, so this would be just one element. I am not saying that they have to do it pro-actively, but if asked about how the collection came to be, at least acknowledge it then.

Off to take my medication.


Philip Lim got it right (though the gals might not be very huggable). Everyone else, not so much. Most of it feels very "we need a new trend, what have we got, zippers, fine, throw it out there and see if it sticks."


I love some of the zippers, but I still have a problem when some designers create fashion that looks like they cut fabric from the bolt with a steak knife.


I think it looks cool most of the time, but I don't like when it looks as though you're wearing clothes inside out. Bleh.

But maybe I have a zipper fetish. xD


I'm really neutral here - depends on how it works on the garment. Philip Lim seems to have the gift.


I can't believe I'm about to say this, but while the Lim dresses are very pretty, and I like the use of the zippers on the 3rd Versace and the 3rd Rodriguez, when it comes to zippers specifically, only Jeffrey used them in the places that define the very shape of the dress. None of the others shown do that, except maybe the Karan, but those silhouettes aren't anything we haven't seen a million times before.

Oh, gosh, I have to go wash my typing fingers out with soap.


LOL@ people thinking that Jeffrey "made" that dress.


honesty.not.pc

Not really a fan of the zipper as a focal point. Perhaps its the practical in me but those decoration zippers will snag on everything. I don't like the huge long thick zippers. It just makes me think of a giant fly on the crotch of your pants.


I love Phillip Lim's use of them, as well as the whimsical one in the Versace collection. I'm "meh" on the Duchess' versions. They aren't bad, but they don't really grab me. And the ones with the zipper tape on the outside don't do a thing for me. They seem slapped-on, rather than designed in.

I guess I like the idea of making something as functional and mundane as a zipper into something decorative and whimsical.

It's sleeting and raining here, so whimsy is in short supply!


Thank you honesty.not.pc! I like the concept, but dislike the impracticality of zippers as trim. Would snag on everything!


Brooklyn Bomber said...

I can't believe I'm about to say this, but while the Lim dresses are very pretty, and I like the use of the zippers on the 3rd Versace and the 3rd Rodriguez, when it comes to zippers specifically, only Jeffrey used them in the places that define the very shape of the dress. None of the others shown do that, except maybe the Karan, but those silhouettes aren't anything we haven't seen a million times before.

Oh, gosh, I have to go wash my typing fingers out with soap.


What about the Versace on the left?

Besides, that's the totally obvious way to use them. Are you really applauding the easy way out over people who actually tried to be creative?


Anon 1:41

I'm with you. . .


Anon 1:41...yeah, seriously. I still can't believe this isn't a bigger point of contention among PR fans. In my mind, it was sooooo clear that Jeffrey had unfair outside help. That he won on top of everything was truly the icing on the very shitty cake that was Jeffrey's tenure on the show. W...T...F. I guess going back to LA suddenly made him a master constructionist and sewist, with skills he didn't even approach having while at Parson's. Hmmmm... nope not suspicious at all.


As you know, I've always despised the Angry Little Peanut & found nothing original about him. So the only thing I found interesting about that zipper/awning dress is that it looks just like the jacket that Davy Jones wore when he came over to take Marcia Brady to the prom.

I absolutely ADORE the Phillip Lim dresses. THOSE are unique, and are gorgeous as well. The Versaces are cute too, though I've never figured out who their customer is (aside from Vegas Showgirls).

But Ay-yi-yi-yi-yi: Donna Karan - Her and Vera Wang should go on a cruise together. That 'dress' on the right is beyong hideous. When you make a two pound model look like a shlepper, you should hang it up.

As for Proenza Schouler: The zippers aren't really the problem here. Those outfits look like they'd be better suited for keeping your sandwich fresh.

And that Kors on the Left looks like it's from the movie 'Patricia Fields goes to Boca' starring Sylvia Miles.

--GothamTomato


GothamTomato...nice. Everyone knows all the Vegas showgirls love them some 'Versayce.'


This comment has been removed by the author.

I agree with Bailey about the Philip Lim.
I agree "a" about the Kenley scandel.
I agree with Isabella that the striped dress is the best thing Jeffery Sebilla has done to this date.
But if his sample hand made it, I hope he has hired someone else. Because it is a cute design, but it really isn't that well made.


Anon. 2:11 said to me:
"Besides, that's the totally obvious way to use them. Are you really applauding the easy way out over people who actually tried to be creative?"

Maybe you're right, but I think his curved bodice isn't something you see every day -- perhaps that's what appeals to me about that dress (which, I agree with others, was the best piece in his collection) and the zippers have nothing to do with it.

You're definitely right about the Versace on the left -- I guess I just don't like that one, so I overlooked it!


I'm not liking the Duchess's take on it at all. I like the Narcisco Rodriguez, though. Cheri


formerlyAnon

GothamTomato said...

". . . the only thing I found interesting about that zipper/awning dress is that it looks just like the jacket that Davy Jones wore when he came over to take Marcia Brady to the prom."

*******************************
Thanks, GT, among your several entertaining & accurate critiques, this was the instant flashback moment; gave me a big grin for a minute!


come on you Lim lovers - NONE of you have any problem with the middle one (sack)? or the styling - hair or shoes?

/shudder


Well, I love functional zippers any and everywhere, but then they've been part of the punk/goth aesthetic for so long that it feels like the labels are just now catching on to me. FWIW.

-- Anun


Didn't Christian Siriano design a shoe that is similar to the shoe in the Lim's Look #2?


Zippers as adornment are already yesterday.


Funny how this came up today. Just last night I was looking through a photographer's portfolio and found a lovely garment with a stunning multiple zipper collar.

Sometimes they can be fun


I've never gotten into the whole "zipper-as-a-trim" thing.

Because, well, they're...zippers.


I like the Phillip Lim curvy numbers (1 & 3), except for the sack and those red clodhopper shoes in the middle! Several of the other looks do look like home ec projects gone wrong. And yeah, tripletmom96, I know what home ec is too. *sheepish grin*


I'm hesitant for using it on surface decoration. Could you imagine swinging your arms past tiny little metal teeth all day? It seems like it would cut girls' arms raw


Gotham Tomato said: "So the only thing I found interesting about that zipper/awning dress is that it looks just like the jacket that Davy Jones wore when he came over to take Marcia Brady to the prom."

It's official, I have a crush on Gotham Tomato! I cracked up over this because as soon as I read it I heard Davy singing that lame song of his in my head ("thank you girl for making my morning brighter. GIRL! For making my nighttime nicer...") while Marcia tried to browbeat his manager into letting her in to see him. Good times, good times!

I'm with those who said the exposed zippers would snag on everything - and I am just the person to make it happen!! What's next? Safety pins in the ears again and holding the rips in our jeans together?


I think it works best when the clothing is more structured and the zipper is used functionally and just not hidden. For example, I think the blue suit from Duchess is the best example of an exposed zipper. It just fits the somewhat business like nature of the suit. When it is used whimsically, it just looks dumb.


Zippers are so YAWN. All the models look like they are running around in designer wetsuits.


while i can't deny that zippers serve an extremey functional purpose, as someone with a chest the full-length zip-up-the-front look is something i can never get behind because it does one of two things: it gets all weirdly bunchy; or it squishes my lady bits so much i can't breathe. i loved the victoria beckham zip-up-the-back dresses though. also i agree with other posters about the use of decorative zippers on shoes as being easier to get behind.


Anonymous said...

while i can't deny that zippers serve an extremey functional purpose, as someone with a chest the full-length zip-up-the-front look is something i can never get behind because it does one of two things: it gets all weirdly bunchy; or it squishes my lady bits so much i can't breathe. i loved the victoria beckham zip-up-the-back dresses though. also i agree with other posters about the use of decorative zippers on shoes as being easier to get behind.


I love people who can't "get behind " things because they can't wear them. I couldn't/wouldn't wear any of them either, but I think many of them are beautiful. Narrow-minded, much?


Anon 10:01 am
as someone with a chest the full-length zip-up-the-front look is something i can never get behind because it does one of two things: it gets all weirdly bunchy; or it squishes my lady bits so much i can't breathe
? Seriously? with a DD rack, I'd say that I'd have a right to an opinion on this and I'd really love to know how the zipper is responsible for the problem?

Seriously, pulling buttons would look (and feel) far worse. If an item is not cut for women with breasts, IT IS NOT THE ZIPPER's FAULT! (It is either the cut or the size.)


is it just my eyes (and it seems so, 'cause no one else mentioned it...) or am i the only one who thought of "Leanne on Zippers" looking at the Lim pieces? And this is not a quality judgment on either designer (either good or bad)...


There's a reason why designers are using (ack) metal zippers in their designs right now. They're cheap! There are warehouses with millions of those nasty things sitting around, and you can buy them by the truckload for next to nothing.

The designs with all those exposed zippers are cool, but they look heavy to me, similar to a heavily beaded dress. And uncomfortable to wear, especially sitting. And the metal teeth will snag everything that gets close to it, so it's not a very functional design element, in my opinion.

Your mileage may vary, of course. ;-)

Karen in Ohio


I like the Phillip Lim and the Versace ones and I don't mind the Narciso Rodriguez ones, but the others just look fug to me. I especially hate that royal blue with the black zipper from Kors. Didn't the Dutchess once bash someone on PR for putting black trim on royal blue? Very 80s, I think was the comment. I agreed with that statement then and I agree with it now.


Funny because I am wearing a hoodie (Christmas present from in-laws) and I had to look twice to see if I had it on inside out because it has an exposed zipper!


As someone else said, I can forgive them more on shirts than on pants, because on pants it usually ends up looking like "Hai u guis, how is zipper formed?"

Skirts I can take or leave depending on the use.

I appreciate *clever* uses of zippers as trim, like when the zipper looks like it belongs there, rather than that someone took a glue gun and added a zipper for the sake of adding a zipper. "Wow, is that a zipper?" over "Huh. A zipper."

Too much zipper and black makes you look like an extra from Kingom Hearts.


I hate people who use the phrase 'your milage may vary' almost as much as I hate people who abbreviate it as 'YMMV.'


vbd said...

"is it just my eyes (and it seems so, 'cause no one else mentioned it...) or am i the only one who thought of "Leanne on Zippers" looking at the Lim pieces?"

Thanks, I couldn't place it at first, but that's exactly what I see...WAVES!


Wow, that Michael Kors stuff looks pretty awful. Really?


Lim = "Leanne on zippers", yes! I thought the exact same thing. And everyone who mentioned the sheer impractcality of wearing clothes studded with lines of tiny metal teeth, yes, I'm in complete agreement there too. Exposed zippers looking like the clothes are on inside-out or were made by a 7th grade home ec student as his/her first zippered project, yes yes. And if Jeffrey's "jet-setter" pants were obnoxious with their big exposed zipper - or was it contrasting laces? - same "Hi there, I'm Jeffrey and here is my crotch" effect either way - Christian's repeated use of exposed zippers drawing attention to the crotches of every single pair of skinny pants he made was even more obnoxious, because there were so many of them.

Nope nope nope to exposed zippers, anywhere, any time, any place. That is my verdict. Oops, I mean my opinion.


Oy, it's so good to see Marilinda front and center again, Mami. Love her FOREVER for the way she rocked Jeffrey's yellow frock.





BALMAIN for women

Blog Archive

Search This Blog

Loading...

Project Runway